Just a quick post to empty my brain. I managed to get home and proceed to:
– Find all of Dan’s gear for the weekend. It is all, not so neatly piled in the kitchen
– Take apart one of his carpet bags and remake into something more functional. Fyi – Long, wide, shallow framed carpet bags are not very functional.
– Find in above process, the fans I plan to remake, my neckerchiefs and a few other must haves.
– Not find my undersleeves. Where in the world did I pack those?
– Box pleat enough bias for the neckline of the dress. Attached. I’m deciding about a second row.
– Try on said dress finally only to decide the shoulder gathers need to move a half inch in and the waist ones may as well.
– put theribbons & flowers on one bonnet and the ribbon on another. Flowers are assembled for the second, but now I think I may go with the blue instead. (That also means I may want to switch the pink satin for the pink moire. But the rose flowers won’t work with the plaid ribbon the blue flowers were going to go on. I’ll think about that tomorrow. Who knows the other plaid ribbon make change everything.)

Photos are lacking because it is too late.

Published in: on May 16, 2013 at 9:07 pm  Leave a Comment  

Mid-Week Progress and Ponderings

Half-way into the week, there has been a detour, progress and, of course, some ponderings. First the progress (detour included):

  • Tuesday – Assemble & attach sleeves. Put bodice & skirt together (green dress) Detour – food poisoning or food intolerance of undertermined nature
  • Wednesday – Handfinishing on bodice (green dress) – Dress finish. Well, the base of the dress is finished and a make-do collar attached. It needs something. (see below)
  • Thursday – Handfinishing on bodice (green dress). Finish hem. – (Hem done) Adding: Pull all of Dan’s clothes out of closet & dresser. Adding: Fix my cage or starch my corded petticoats.
  • Friday – pack & see Dan off. Finish bonnet to wear. (Hope ribbon arrives.)
  • Satuday – Work on NB dress as much as possible. Draft Dan’s coat & waist coat
  • Sunday – Wear green dress
  • Monday until? – Focus on NB clothes.

Now, the ponderings:

  1. I think this something for the green dress will be pleated bias cut (pinked?) self fabric along the neckline and closure, along the opening of the sleeve or angled and something, maybe circles on the bottom of the skirt. Maybe, eventually a different color silk ribbon as well. Pink?
  2. As I’ve opted for an open sleeve, I should have undersleeves. This is just the chance to wear the undersleeves entered in last fall’s Agricultural Society Fair. The sleeves I haven’t seen since said fair. Where, oh where are you my undersleeves?
  3. I have yet to put together the silver-pearl grey bonnet I intend(ed) to wear for this weekend. Part of that is that I was waiting for my favorite ribbon merchant to return. The other part is I still can’t make up my mind on the ribbon for this bonnet. I was thinking pink then green then pink… Then I saw this nifty red/black/white plaid and thought “OOooo” Of course, that would clash horribly with the green dress and just about every dress I anticipate for this year. Back up option 1 is the slate gray bonnet trimmed in burgandy; option 2 is my white sheer that may or may not still have the flowers attached.
  4. I don’t think I have the right stockings for the Netherfield Ball. Mine are cotton. I lack silk stockings. *pout* I honestly don’t think I’ll get around to getting silk stockings. Trying to be budget sensible while the want of silk calls is such a challenge. 🙂
  5. I do believe I’ve remade Dan’s current carpet bags into a bigger one for him and one for Lily or myself a dozen times in the past week. I have one fabric that will work, assuming it is in the cabinet. What are the chances I’ll stumble upon a fabulous reproduction piece of ingrain carpet in an uber-clean state at a yardsale for ridiculously cheap?

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Dresses always look so blaaa on the hanger. Once the detour is finally back on track, I can put my corset on & try this on.

Published in: on May 15, 2013 at 8:00 pm  Comments (2)  

Hairnets

Image05As hairnets have become one of the popular spring time discussions (they usually are), I would like to bring up To Net or Not To Net from the depths of the blog. This was my first indepth research topic from 2005/6. The article covers what types of nets are seen looking at extant examples and photographs as well as fashion descriptions and illustrations.

Image11Plug time. If you are looking for a lovely hairnet with a nicely pleated ribbon, I highly suggest Ashley Goldsmith’s Etsy shop. Ashley uses 100% silk ribbons and fine hairnets.

Published in: on May 15, 2013 at 3:00 pm  Leave a Comment  

Green Dress Progress

As almost all of my other dresses have a name, this poor green dress needs a name. Nothing has come to me yet. As I have a rather looming deadline and lots of odds and ends popping up, I’m trying to keep myself on track. Taking a look at the plan I set last week, this is where I am at:

  • Wednesday – Assemble green skirt (make Dan’s book if possible) Skirt assembled, set, hem faced at 10 pm. :) Didn’t get to Dan’s book :(
  • Thursday – Cut out green bodice and NB bodice.  Cut out Green bodice & NB bodice. Assembled green bodice.
  • Friday/Sat/Sun – Get Dan to stand still so I can drape his coat and waist coat. Cut bias. Do what hand work I can. I managed to get some of the handwork done on the bodice as Dan fell asleep Friday evening. The gathers at the waist were shifted out while the gathers at the neckline were shifted in. This is dead opposite of what I normally do. So, this may or may not stay as is. I did not get Dan to stand for draping. It seems like every minute of the weekend was full. I did however, get his book made. It does not look like what I had pictured in my head. He likes it though. I broke a few needles and bent another. Not the easiest leather to work with. (The little bags he wants may have to be done by machine with the walking foot.)
  • Monday – Assemble green bodice. Decide on sleeves. – I decided to go with a one piece, open sleeve with a hint of curve, set on the bias. These are now in place. I do find it easier and neater to set sleeves by hand. This is good since sewing the leather last night threw the tension off again on the Bernina. I have to Not sew leather or carpet on that machine ever again. These must be done by hand or maybe with the Pfaff when she’s oiled up & has some tlc. I’ll put a photo of the bodice below. While I don’t think I’ll trim it before this wekend, I also have a photo of possible placement on the sleeve. There are several trimming option floating in my head. I still haven’t draped Dan. It turns out the random piece of muslin I picked up from Bits & Pieces turns out to be a nice heavy, wide piece that will be a quild back instead of toile scraps.
  • Tuesday – Assemble & attach sleeves. Put bodice & skirt together (green dress)Adding: Pull all of Dan’s clothes out of closet & dresser.
  • Wednesday – Handfinishing on bodice (green dress) Adding: Fix my cage or starch my corded petticoats.
  • Thursday – Handfinishing on bodice (green dress). Finish hem. – (Hem done
  • Friday – pack & see Dan off. Last minute finishings. Finish bonnet to wear. (Hope ribbon arrives.)
  • Satuday – Work on NB dress as much as possible. Draft Dan’s coat & waist coat
  • Sunday – Wear green dress
  • Monday until? – Focus on NB clothes.

 
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Published in: on May 13, 2013 at 8:00 pm  Comments (5)  

Pair of Hats

Up until this year, I stuck firmly in the mid-century for straw millinery. When Bevin suggested I give the 80s and 90s a try I soon became ‘wowed’ by the shapes of the 80s. Talk about an era of amazing lines, shape, curve, height. What fun. I can’t wait to do more.

Finally, I get to show you the pair of hats as they were worn in the Genesee Country Village’s Mother’s Day fashion show. I did the straw forms of fine hemp plait. Each one is hand sewn, wired and blocked freehand. Bevin had the fun of doing the feathers. (Now, the photos aren’t the best as I need to check the camera’s settings.)

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Mother’s Day at Genesee Country Village & Museum

I was very pleased when mom asked to go to the museum for Mother’s Day. Here are some of the highlights. (I will save you from my inablity to take runway photos. But, I assure you the fashion show was wonderful.)

 

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First stop was the gallery to see the Green Collection. It was neat to see that mom had to open every drawer and read every label. While mom got her first look at the collection, I took a closer look at some of the men’s Regency clothing. I also decided I simply must find some horsehair braid. Silly, fabulous 80s.

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Mom particluarly enjoyed the kerchiefs. Her favorite is the upper left.

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Of course the quilts in the lobby caught our attention. Grandma spent so many years quilting at the museum. She enjoyed working on the “A Stitch in Time” project.

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If you are in the area, come out the the museum next Sunday for Red Day. I’ll be finishing up my dress this week, so I can volunteer on this fun day. I am going to get a few copies of “A Stitch in Time” signed.

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Each time we stepped into a village kitchen we could smell chocolate and get a taste. Heritage Chocolate is available in the gift shop and on the museum’s website (www.gcv.org) If you haven’t had a chance to taste this chocolate, I highly recommend it. If I have to pick, the small balls of chocolate with a hint of orange at Livingston was my favorite.

It was off to the fashion show after a stroll by all the animals.

 

Published in: on May 12, 2013 at 6:43 pm  Leave a Comment  
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A Lesson in Economy

In  the lesson “Economy” from The Village Reader (1841) we find this little story.

“If you please, mother, I will now tell you why I called Mrs. Marsh stingy; and I am sure, much as you like economy, you will think she carried it a little too far.” When she had detailed the occurrences of the morning, she added—” Now that seems a saving too small to be worth any one’s attention.”

 “That, my dear, is because you think of the ‘little matters’ alone, and not, as you should, in connection with the very serious consequences, which flow from daily and hourly neglecting such ‘little matters.’ One cent a day seems very little indeed; but I should like to have you tell me how much it would amount to in a year.”

 Elizabeth, after a momentary pause, answered, ” Three dollars and sixty-five cents; is it possible!”

 “Certainly, my dear. ‘Little matters,’ you see, by continual accumulation, amount to great matters in time. Drops make the ocean; minutes make the year.”

 “Well, mother, I believe I must allow that my opinion of Mrs. Marsh was too hastily formed.”

 “And not very decorously expressed—you will acknowledge that, too, my daughter, I hope.”

 “Yes, mother,” answered Elizabeth, with a crimson cheek. “But still I cannot think Mrs. Marsh was quite right; for when we went into the milliner’s shop, she de clined purchasing a bonnet for Laura, which she reall needs.”

 “Perhaps she wants it, but does not need it.”

 “Indeed, mother, the milliner said she needed one and Laura said so; and I said so. Now I am sure you think that parents ought to supply the wants of their children, if they can.”

 “Certainly, my dear, the real wants, but not the fancied wants. If I rightly remember, Laura’s bonnet is quite fresh and clean.”

 “Yes, but that is because she is so careful of every thing; she has worn it a long time.”

 “That is no reason why she should not continue to wear it, if it be unsoiled and unfaded.”

 “But it is so unfashionable, mother.”

 “Unfashionable! What magic is in the sound! No matter how comfortable, or pretty, or becoming any thing is, let but that word be breathed over it, and it passes at once into oblivion! But this is not to the purpose. I think Mrs. Marsh was quite right in judging for herself about what she could afford, or what was proper for her to purchase, instead of suffering herself to be led by others. She best knows her own resources, and the demands likely to be made upon them.

 “Mrs. Marsh is not rich. She has enough for the comforts of life—nothing for its costly decorations. Yet limited as her income is, she contrives by her excellent management to command all that is really valuable and useful; all that can actually add to the happiness of herself and family.

 “You can perceive, my dear, that if there be only money enough to purchase necessary and useful things, and part of it go for superfluities, there must be a deficiency of the others. You would not much like to see your friend Laura with a new bonnet, and an old, untidy pair of shoes; or with a pretty necklace and a faded dress. It would shock Mrs. Marsh’s taste, even more than yours. There is a beautiful fitness and propriety in her whole establishment, which shows her judgment and good sense.

 “She has the true economy to proportion her expenses to her income, while she makes it produce to her family all the happiness it is capable of producing; and she has the true wisdom to wish for those things only, which it is proper and right for her to have. If the occurrences and conversation of this morning prove a salutary lesson to you, if [sic]  will make Mrs. Marsh your model in the management [sic] your yearly allowance, I shall dare to hope that you will [sic[ time become as useful and estimable a woman.”

Enjoy this article? Consider one of my straw bonnets available through Etsy.

 

Published in: on May 11, 2013 at 8:00 am  Comments (1)  
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Bodice Update 2

I finally did it. I cut into the sari.
I’ll back up. Tonight was dedicated to working on both my Netherfield Ball bodice and my green dress bodice.
First up, the green dress, which needs a name. This was a fairly easy cut & assemble process. As I dove right in, I forgot I wanted to line up the back on the wider stripe. Oh, well. Rather than do the jewel neckline, then regret not doing the gathered V neck I love so much and find more comfortable when I have one of my over heating or forgot to eat right spell, I went with the gathered V. I can alway change it out after. I have yet to decide gathering placement. Each has its adventages.

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Next came cutting the NB bodice from the sari. I’ve had a particular section of the sari in mind for the bodice from the start. The pieces barely fit.

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This is one project where every bit of scrap will be saved just incase. I was particularly happy with how the white read through the silk. The color firmly became a lovely peach rather than ‘I might be orange’. I hope you can see the difference here.

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I was hoping to get Dan’s book started as well. But, I ended up proofing my little sister’s research paper. Nicely done. I look forward to hearing what her teacher thinks of a particular phrase.
Next up – Hand finishing the green bodice and deciding on sleeves. Also, getting Dan to stand still for draping.

Published in: on May 9, 2013 at 7:22 pm  Leave a Comment  

All Those Odds and Ends

Now that it is May…. there are only 4 weeks of classes left… the Museum opens this weekend…. Dan has an event next weekend… and I will dress next weekend…. I am having one of those “eegads!” moments. Okay, a series of them. 

Odds and ends of items keep popping into my head. These are pieces I forgot needed to get made, hadn’t thought of or just have been lingering. Some really are not small pieces either.

So, here it is. My long delayed list of items that should have been made months ago, in completely random order:

  • Dan’s book. (I told him I would make him the book he had been wanting for our anniversary.)
  • A general volunteering dress of a tbd date and style. (I would love an excuse to make up the sprigged muslin or welcome a kick in the bottom to get to work on the travel dress. This would be nice for my red/brown fabric)
  • Lily needs a real bag as the one I made her years back just isn’t up to par any more. I am picturing a nice frameless carpet bag.
  • I need a carpet, carpet bag. I love my fabric carpet bags. But, after making the museum’s bags, I really feel like I aught to have an awesome carpet bag.
  • Dan needs better carry-all type bags or box or something. He has his pair of duffle bags and carpet bags that are just way too out of proportion. (long and short. difficult to hold anything.) (What I really should do is pull the frames out of those bags. Remake that fabric into a more suitable, frameless version. Then use the frames for bags more proportionate.)
  • That long, long list of travel  items.
  • The Jenny Lind style fan. This will require finding the damaged fan base I intended to use for this.
  • Lily’s stays
  • Fix my cage. This means reattach the tapes to the bones and strengthen all the other joinings. This poor cage has taken a beating during limb0-living.
  • Alter one cage for Lily.
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     Just to make things interesting, here is this month’s “If I could make a dress per decade” list. (I am defaulting to the MET’s dating today.):

  • 1800-10 – I want this fabric to do this dress.
  • 1810-20 – I want to squish together this dress and this dress.
  • 1820-30 – I love this bodice along with the soft smoothness. (I also really like this one from completely different reasons. Light, air & adorable. Then there is this one for the early part of the decade.)
  • 1830-40 – This dress in just this fabric. But, it would have to be for someone lean like my sister.
  • 1840-50 – The lines curving through the bodice and the pleated trim set into the piped edge look like so much fun to make, while the dress looks so comfortable to weare
  • 1850-60 – Not my normal pick for this decade. Someone showed me this dress the other day. Can anything look so comfy? This is a print I would expect to see on a quilt weight fabric, but I would love to find it in a shirting or lawn.
  • 1860-70
  • 1870-1880 – Maybe
  • 1880-90
  • 1890-1899  
Published in: on May 9, 2013 at 4:00 pm  Leave a Comment  

Skirt Choices

I keep changing my mind. For my Netherfield Ball dress, should I….
Put this solid gold pattern panel down the center? It is a bit geometric in feel. It isn’t symetrical. It does have omph.

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OR
Put the ‘field’ of closely spaced motifs in the front with the loosely spaced motif around the back? I think this will move nicely.

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Comments Very welcome.

Green dress update – Skirt assembled and set. I’m hoping to get a good portion of the hem done as well.

10 o’clock update – Thanks to stumbling upon a playing of Mansfield Park, the green skirt is faced & hemmed. Bodices cut tomorrow.

Published in: on May 8, 2013 at 7:43 pm  Comments (4)