What are You Wearing on Your Head this Winter?

It certainly is a COLD winter so far for most of us. We’ve been seeing single digits for days with days to come. Some have it much harsher with double digit negatives. I hope everyone is doing their best to stay warm and keeping their fur and feather friends warm as well.

With it being so cold, it is a good time to talk about the nitty gritty of wine get bonnets or hoods. Well, some of it. I need to save so e stuff for the up coming book.

Let’s talk about silk verses wool. One of the most common questions I get about winter hoods is if silk is better than wool or wool better than silk. The answer is “Yes”. 

Both silk and wool are found in original bonnets from 1840 through the 1860s. Without tallying up those I’ve surveyed, including my personal collection, roughly 65%-70% of extant hoods have silk on the exterior and roughly 35%-40% have wool exteriors. Other materials show up as well.

Silk is nice for wet snow. Think about how an umbrella made of silk protects against the rain. In a wet snow, silk will hold up against the wet for a while. Eventually, the water will soak through. This happened then as it will now. Water marks can be seen on some originals. (There is a difference in water staining for when a bonnet was worn verses damage in storage.)

Wool helps with moisture for an extended time as well as providing insulation. Wool needs to be a smooth, tight weave though. A fuzzy wool, such as flannel, will act like a snow magnet, inviting it to cling to the fuzzy bits. Wool also needs to be very light weight. Thick or heavyweight wools are not regularly found on original hoods.

Left: Original hood with a solid color silk exterior. Right: Original wool hood with a plaid wool exterior. 

Moving on to the inside, the batting or wadding – The vast majority of originals use some type of wool for the wadding or batting. A significant number are natural, just cleaned and combed off the sheep. I’ve seen a nice mix of colors inside some hoods. Some originals are lightly filled, while others are quite densely filled. Some thinner hoods have a thin batting more similar to 100% cotton quilt batting. Yet a couple others have a layer of fulled wool inside, completely covered (not as a visible lining.) Wool batting is by far the warmest option, over cotton batting. I have not yet determined if the thicker, fluffier, lighter wadding is warmer or less warm then the denser, tighter wadding/batting. I can tell more wool does seem to be more warm. There is also a point where there can be too much warm.

Left: Original wadded silk hood with fluffy wool wadding. This is sometimes called a pumpkin bonnet/hood. Right: Original silk quilted hood with wool batting. 

I am going to leave the lining for the upcoming book. Linings are just too varied and fascinating for a single post.

How about wind? Some of us live in areas with amazing winter winds. There is a quasi-local event each February that sees frigid, harsh winds coming off Lake Erie and picking up some extra speed off a frozen pond before walloping us on the overlooking porch. For this type of event, I want both warmth and wind protection. A deep brim that reaches in front of the face with minimal rise will help keep the wind off the face. A long bavolet will help protect the neck. Another help can be longer sides or the long, lappet like sides.

Left: Original wool and silk hood with long lappet like sides. Right: Original silk and silk hood with long lappet like sides. 

I will be working on some new hoods soon-ish. In the meanwhile, you are welcome to make your own hood from one of my patterns. They are available for instant download through my Etsy shop. 

Published in: on December 31, 2017 at 10:44 am  Leave a Comment  

Monthly Update

I am going to get a head start on one of my 2018 blogging goals: A Monthly Update post.

This was inspired by a favorite blogger I follow, Victoria Elizabeth Barnes. Her blog meanders beautifully between stunning antique finds and adorable foster kitties. I enjoy the way any one of her posts can have a little of both, as well as what is happening in her life, projects she is working on, what she is reading and such. My monthly update posts may fall just about anywhere in the month.

So, what have I been up to this December???

I have discovered the art of lazy couch laying. This is incredibly new to me. I don’t think I’ve ever come home from work for three consecutive evenings to lay upon the couch to do nothing other than sit, cat cuddle and doze off. It is delightful. It is strange. It is pretty cool.  

_20171128_060900In and around my experiments with lazy, I’ve made a few things. I started the month with ribbon pin cushions, weaving ribbons together. These were lots of fun. I still have more ribbon to make more. _20171128_060800I designed a bird ornament to make with my techniques from Fanciful Utility. This involved some adventures in wool fulling. Oh-so-soft. I stopped into my local quilt shop during our Hometown Holidays festivities to learn a new-to-me paper piecing technique. I loved the little ornament I made. Then the week following, I stumbled upon a way too similar pin cushion. So, I had to make that up as well. Then I found another sorta-similar. Stay tuned for that at some point.

_20171126_191040The shop had a nice December. After a crazy year, I was of two hearts on the shop going into December. Part of me wanted to stock it with all sorts of goodies. Part of me was in dire need of down time. See above to figure out which won. _20171126_190738


I finally ordered more archival boxes. I wanted to get those ordered before the snow fell. Luckily, it turned out Gaylord Archival had a great sale. I dedicated a chunk of last Saturday to getting the summer and fall arrivals properly re-wrapped and boxed. Once again, I didn’t order quite enough. I miss counted. Okay, I plum forgot about a couple extant hoods that I bought while in the hospital. I need to order some deeper boxes next time too. I was able to coax the original shape further back into a few of the wired and and caned than I had planned. I anticipate a major photographing session this winter or spring.

Published in: on December 16, 2017 at 2:00 am  Comments (1)  

Closing for the Season

I am closing the Etsy shop today for the season. E-books and e-patterns will still be available. I will reopen the shop some time after the new year. 

A huge Thank You to all who have supported me and listened to me whine through this past year. It was quite the adventure. Please enjoy this holiday season. I wish you all safe time with friends and family. 

Published in: on December 15, 2017 at 10:52 am  Leave a Comment  

Announcement from Ensembles of the Past

​Sara Gonzalez, from Ensembles of the Past, share a wonderful announcement. She will be exclusively producing the beautiful 19th century reproduction buckles created by Jeremy Richardson, the owner of JR&Co., who has ceased his production. Ensembles of the Past will be the sole manufacturer of these wonderful, high quality buckles. Sara says “I will be continuing the fabrication of Jeremy Richardson’s fabulous buckles, with additional styles to be added in the future. It is my hope that I will do justice to the endeavor Jeremy Richardson began, and I look forward to serving each of you through this new channel of my growing company in the coming days!”

Ensembles of the Past is currently offering the last of Jeremy’s buckles stock and pre-order buckles through the Etsy shop for $12 each. After, buckles will be $15 per buckle. Sara anticipates the first shipment towards the end of December. 

I own one of each. Yes, all six buckles between Lily and I. I love them. I find the quality to be exceptional, and the ease of wear wonderful. Having worked with Sara on fabric selections for my hoods, I expect she will continue the fine offerings Jeremy started. 

Please take a moment to visit Ensembles of the Past to purchase yours today. 

Published in: on December 10, 2017 at 1:01 pm  Leave a Comment  

Pin Cushion Sale!!! 

Buy 3, get a 4th FREE!!!
When you buy 3 pin cushions, I will send you a 4th of my choice free. 

Emeries and ornaments included.

Now, through December 15th. 

Shop Now

Published in: on December 4, 2017 at 7:01 am  Leave a Comment  


Despite what my ridiculously refilling inbox indicates, today is not Cyber Monday take 2. Um, no. Today is “Giving Tuesday” or locally “Roc the Day.”

Today is the day you say thank you to those organizations and sites that make the world better, that do the little things that mean a lot, that do the hard stuff.

My personal recommendations for your consideration today:

The Genesee Country Village and Museum

502ac64d-2d30-446e-a24f-c0f9432971caThis year, the museum’s annual appeal focuses on very special village residents – the animals:

“As you know, the museum would be a very different place without our animals! The joy they bring to our visitors is part of what makes GCV&M such a fun, educational, and unique place to visit. So this year, funds raised through our annual appeal will support the many animals who call GCV&M home.

As anyone with a pet can tell you, animals are not only wonderful to have but also expensive to care for. During the winter, our oxen each eat a bale of hay per day! Keeping our animals safe and healthy is a priority, and we hope you’ll help us do just that this giving season – and also come visit them (and their new babies!) in 2018.”

. Click Here


Keller’s Kats 


Keller’s Kats is a special rescue that cares for special needs animals and finds them just the right home. In the past year, they have helped numerous cats in need, from losing a limb or an eye to learning to live with a neurological challenge. These are amazing people with amazing hearts.

. Click here


Hearthside Cats

This is our local rescue. As I’ve watched their post over the last few years, I’ve come to know they truly are a forever rescue. They go to great lengths to rescue those in need. Then they stand by those in their care for the long haul, be it many years or the hardest of days.

. Click here

Published in: on November 28, 2017 at 7:00 am  Leave a Comment  

Cyber Monday – Updated

(Update) Thank you all who included their favorite artisans in their Black Friday to Cyber Monday shopping.  Your purchases can make a great deal of difference. Some artists and craftsman rely on sales for funding their own holidays. Some keep themselves busy with their art to distract or ease their personal weight of the season. Many of us get great joy out of knowing our work will be someone else’s surprise under the tree.

Personally, after this rather odd and challenging year, I am happy to say the boxes in the car ready for the post are especially pleasing. I now feel I can give myself permission to enjoy some personal and gifting sewing of my own, along with a good cup of tea each evening.

btw – I will be sharing a couple projects soon, both on this blog and on Don’t Paint the Cat.






Published in: on November 27, 2017 at 7:45 am  Comments (1)  

Cyber Monday Millinery Special!!!

All Millinery in my Etsy shop is only $100 for Cyber Monday! 

Also…. The first three (3) people to buy three(3) pin cushions will get a 4th pin cushion of my choice FREE!!! 

These pieces will be newly available Monday morning. I will hit the button just before I head to work. 

Currently available:

Published in: on November 26, 2017 at 8:41 pm  Leave a Comment  

A Small Business Saturday Millinery Special!

This soft, warm winter hood is trimmed with pleated silk ruche cut on my VanDyke pinking machine. The exterior is a soft ivory wool, while the interior is a pink plaid taffeta. Inside is a thick, fluffy bat of local wool. 

Today’s Small Business Saturday bargain at only $100 in my Etsy shop!  

Published in: on November 25, 2017 at 10:50 am  Leave a Comment  

This Holiday Season 

I hope everyone is having a lovely Thanksgiving, enjoying time with family and friends. I suspect some of you are winding down, putting your feet up, checking your computer or phone, and possibly considering a little shopping. With that in mind, here is a peak at what you can find in my Etsy shop this holiday season. 

For those who sew on the go in historic settings, I have sewing workbags and the very popular workboxes

Fill her, or his, sewing box with a popular Victorian pin cushion. My shop is full of strawberries, walnuts and seashells, all hand made for the accurate impression. 

Not sure what to get the woman who has everything? Consider a vintage pair of gloves. I have several in my shop for early 19th, mid 19th and mid 20th century impressions. 

Looking for something special for their tree or yours? I made some strawberry ornaments as well. 

Of course, I have winter millinery for a warm and accurate mid-nineteeth century impression. I will be adding pieces as I get them finished. Each piece is entirely hand made and drafted from an original in my collection. 

Published in: on November 23, 2017 at 7:01 pm  Leave a Comment