June Forecast

I am really having trouble with acknowledging that it is June. This is a bit odd since I’ve had this running calendar of May and June that nearly combines the weeks into one long, flowing month. I sorta hit a wall today/yesterday/which-ever-day-May-31-is-was with work stuff. Well, I guess it wasn’t so much a wall as a massive pit of sticky, muddy, gooey, gross stuff. Yep. That’s how I feel about it.

So, I desperately need to look forward to the fabulous things I have on my other plate for June and a little beyond.

New Addition

IMG_20180531_181927A new antique bonnet block arrived. This block is just darling. It is petite. I do not know yet if it is just a small style, a small size, or even a child’s size. Because of all the pin holes, the many many pin holes, in the plaster, I am hesitant to use it regularly to block. I may just try the one to find out what the finished piece looks like.

I will be looking into various molding processes. I need to educate myself on the options and dangers to original pieces. I would like to find a knowledgeable, skilled, local person who can cast copies of at least Serenity _20180531_172751 and this block for me. It would be great to have usable copies of all four plaster blocks. _20180531_172724_20180531_172737

Event – GCVM – War of 1812

wp-image-1099886474jpg.jpgJune finally brings an event for me – the Genesee Country Village and Museum’s War of 1812 event. Find me in Foster, the building just ahead as you walk through the toll booth, demonstrating sewing straw hats and bonnets. I missed this event last year because I was visiting the hospital instead. So, I am doubly looking forward to this year. (right: the demo from two years ago.)

I will be bringing Regency era samples and a couple appropriate blocks this year with their corresponding hat and/or bonnet shapes. Right now, I am planning on showing the differences between a straight and a tapered crown. I think that will be easy for kids to see and match up. I am suddenly remembering I still need to make the sample books I’ve been wanting to make.

Workshop Planning

I have a couple workshops in the works. Both are yet to be official with all the details involved. But, a little bird told me one of them made someone squeak with excitement when she got a sneak peek. I am looking forward to getting the details and materials together for these. Stay tuned to find out more.

 

Published in: on June 1, 2018 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment  

Want to Read More? 

A question about Leghorn bonnets and hats made me think it would be a nice time to remind everyone of all the publications I currently offer. I realize new readers may not know about each of them. 

From Field to Fashion: The Straw Bonnet looks at the types of straw and plait used to make mid-nineteeth century straw bonnets and hats. FFtF is available in my Etsy Shop as an eBook

Fanciful Utility is an instructive book walking you through making Victorian sewing cases and needle-books. It is packed full of templates and projects. Fanciful Utility is available from ESC Publishing at www.thesewingacademy.com

Paisley, Plaid, and Purled discusses shawls of the mid-Victorian era, including the styles, sizes, and how they were worn. It also has directions for making your own accurate shawls. PP&P is available in my Etsy Shop as an eBook

To Net, or Not to Net: Revisited is my newest book, diving deep into the hair nets of the Civil War era. This book looks at the types of hair nets, how they were made, and how they were worn. TNNtN is available in my Etsy Shop as an eBook. 

I would love to have readers share their thoughts on these books.  

Published in: on May 30, 2018 at 4:59 pm  Leave a Comment  

Things I Think I Need to Make

You know how you have random things running around in your head and need to get them out of your head?

Well, this is that.

Random things I think I need to make….

  • A couple or a few linen market wallets – Carrying on my shoulders is a whole lot easier right now. This will be for going into and out of the village. Not visitor times, but still will make my life easier.
  • Something lovey and sweet. There’s a thing. It’s a heart crushing thing.
  • An apron with pockets for my straw. There is something just a bit humorous about sewing away, then standing up to answer a question only to have the straw on my lap fall on the floor. Then having it happen moments later. Apron… with pockets.
  • The dress I started, the one with the red stripe. That needs a bodice. Then the bodice needs sleeves.
  • A box for buckles and belts with buckles. Or, is it buckles with belts? Anyway. One, organized place for all of them to go, be, and return to. I am estimating a rectangle, the width of a neatly folded belt with buckle, by a length suited to three or four folded belts long and a couple or few belts tall. Plus, lid.
  • That linen duffel bag I said I was going to make…. then forgot I was going to make… then was reminded about as I was pondering the above mentioned market wallet.
  • Hat/bonnet stands. These should be assembled this week and awaiting the paint decision.
  • The pillows. I’m supposed to be making pillows from the pretty blue fabric. It is soft and lovely.
  • Cat tent. Or, did that get on hold because she got her awesome box fort? ….. Eegads, my cat has her own fabric stash.

Thank you for the brain dump. I suppose this could be considered an extension of the earlier May update.

EDIT 

Stands assembled an hour after the post. Not bad. 


Adding reweaving this doll chair to the list. 

Published in: on May 17, 2018 at 3:29 pm  Leave a Comment  

Cinderella

Cinderella 1855

I was wishing for a delightful twist on the story I had not yet heard when I saw this illustration in Godey’s 1855. Instead, I simply read:

This plate needs no story or poem from us to illustrate it. It will please the young reader, and call a smile to the faces of the old, who well remember when they were delighted with the story of Cinderella and the little glass slipper.

Published in: on May 4, 2018 at 4:36 pm  Leave a Comment  

Goblin Bonnets of Every Age

1855Excerpt from The Milliner’s Dream’ or, The Wedding- Bonnet, by Alice B. Neal (Godey’s Lady’s Book, 1855.)

“Goblin bonnets of every age and shape flitted before her, and jeered her lack of invention. They floated their tags and streams gayly in her face; they peered curiously at her from over her shoulders, or, joining hands, danced through the air in mocking pantomime.

“”Nothing new, nothing new,” seemed to be the burden of their mimic shapes and gestures, while a crushed, frayed, and faded apparition, arrayed in a mode long since forgotten, whispered in a shrill, melancholy voice –

“All is vanity and vexation of spirit.”

 

Published in: on May 3, 2018 at 4:29 pm  Comments (1)  

How Many Buckle are Too Many Buckles?

Yah. Well. Hmmm….

A pretty buckle arrived today. This is an original Gutta Percha buckle I spontaneously bought last week when I saw it really labeled for a fraction of what Gutta Percha pieces usually are. It is actually, likely a pressed horn buckle. Elizabeth painted out the layers on the back. I can confirm there are definitely layers and the beginning of flaking on the back 


I am looking forward to being able to show it alongside the beautiful reproduction Gutta Percha buckle I have by Elizabeth Aldridge. I thought it would be cool to show two with such similar motifs together. (I am envisioning a nifty display of originals and quality reproductions somewhere sometime in the future.) 

wpid-2013-05-04-19.38.33.jpg

I do have a fondness for buckles. I do think I’ve pushed that line of too many. Here are a few that I have. I really wanted to share a petite pressed metal one I particularly like. I just can’t seem to find it. I like the lean line and delicate flowers on it. 

I also have nearly all of reproduction J.R. buckles exclusively offered by Ensembles of the Past. I really do have all but one, the Fleur pattern in silver, gold, black, and bronze, the Bee pattern in silver, gold, and black. 

I keep a stash of Mother of Pearl slide buckles in my sewing box for those just in case fashion emergencies. 

When looking through my blog photos , I discovered that Apparently I put together this montage of slide buckles last year just before going into the hospital. I don’t think I ever did anything with it. It seems appropriate to share it here.

comparison

Published in: on May 2, 2018 at 5:50 pm  Leave a Comment  

Alas, The Cost of Straw

I am not sure how to approach this. So, I am just going to put it out there without any sugar coating:

The cost of straw keeps going up.

Right now, hanks are running about double what they did a few years ago when the price and shipping are combined. One hank makes two to four bonnets or hats, depending on the plait width and the finished piece. I have tried to make this minimally effecte the price I am putting on my pieces so far this year. You may have noticed each hat I have listed has been $100, un-decorated. Bonnets will be a little more when I start making them.

This is a very lean price considering the quarter to half hank each hat or bonnet takes, combined with the hand sewing time, blocking and research.

On the upside – I just ordered two new colors =- a lovely peach and a deep, walnuty brown – that will arrive in a few weeks. I am hoping to get two bonnets out of each $50 hank. I am also hoping I will be able to get more of each.

Here are the colors in addition to the natural straw and black color, the last two being the new ones:

 

In case you are wondering…..

Yes, I can get cheaper straw. There is a reason it is cheaper. There are breaks. There are bad joins. There are sections of unusable braiding. There is mold. So, basically – That isn’t happening.

Yes, I can get modern, paper, and synthetic braids. I bought a bunch last year. I don’t like working with them for anything besides doll pieces.  So – That isn’t happening.

Published in: on April 26, 2018 at 4:30 pm  Comments (5)  

Women of New York – The Milliner’s Girl

I stumble upon a book I want to recommend to you. The Women of New York by Mary Louise Hankins, is filled with delightful portraits of the various women in New York. This 1861 view of women’s lives seems remarkably modern at times.

Maggie Brewer

The Milliner’s Girl

But then her face,

So lovely, yet so arch – so full of mirth,

The overflowing of an innocent heart. Rogers.

 

Maggie Brewer is all day alternating between the shop and the room back of it, selling bonnets, flowers and feathers in the one, and stitching “for dear life,” in the other. Never on any account, looking dull or stupid, or forgetting the fact that she is an exceedingly pretty girl.

Old Mrs. Stitchem, the proprietess of the establishment, declares that Maggie is worth fifty other shop girls, and Miss Betsy, the forewoman, had rather have her services than those of any of her assistants. As for the ladies who patronize Mrs. Stitchem, they are equally well pleased, for Maggie is never weary of looking for “just this shade of blue,” or “just that width of ribbon,” and will disembowel fifty boxes for the benefit of their curiosity, without a single murmur. May and many a young man, allured within the glass doors, by the pretty face behind the counter, and, intending to spend  nothing, has found his pockets lighter by several dollars, and his hands full of gauzy nothings, of which he could make now possible use – for Maggies is a thorough little tradeswoman, and uses her smiles and beauty as well as she does her nimble fingers. She can flirt in the most approved manner, and is as wicked as coquette as can be found upon this mundane sphere; but, as far as virtue is concerned, she is incorruptible, and would guard her honor with her very life.

Maggie is quick of speech, and can express herself, fluently, but her grammar is somewhat deficient, and she is fond of superfluity of negatives. Any thing she disapproves of, is stigmatised as “real mean.” Over-work is “real mean,” bad needles are “real mean,” and scolding is “real mean.” A rainy day, or too fastidious customers – a rent in her best dress or a bad dinner, all are “real mean.” There is no stronger term in her vocabulary. Maggie’s dress, on holidays, is as scrupulously arranged as that of any Fifth Avenue belle. Her bonnet, with its gay flowers, shades of the glossiest of ringlets, and her long skirt sweep the sidewalk with as great a disregard of economy as though she was worth a million. A shabby garment is the only thing which will give Maggie a fit of the blues, and a badly fitting basque is the object of her supreme and unlimited disgust.

Maggie’s home is situated on the “East side” of New York, beyond the Bowery, in on of the streets running down towards the river and there she dwells, in company with her widowed mother and several sisters, who are either dress makers or tailoresses. The young men of the neighborhood cast glances of admiration on Maggie, as she goes toward the shop in the early morning; and teh butcher around the corner is driven to distraction’s verge by the prejudice which old Mrs. Brewer entertains against him.

One of Maggie’s sisters is engaged to a prosperous journeyman tailor, and the others have each “their young man,” who is supposed to be paying “particular attention,” by all the watchful observers. But, in general, she passes to and fro without disturbance, thinking of all those objects of interest which the humblest life affords, or calculating (if it be Saturday night) how far the little sum in her portemonaie can be made to go; and on the whole is perhaps as happy as many a richer maiden who rolls past her among the cushioned seats of their father’s carriages. During her shopping excursions, Maggie patronizes the Bowery. There the colors are brighter, the patterns larger, and the clerks mor loquacious. There are bargains to be met with. Damaged lace at less than cost, veils from auction, at half price, pink lilies and blue roses, to be purchased for a mere song, and embroidered cotton handkerchiefs, which the shopmen declare can never be told from linen, for a shilling a piece.

It is Maggie’s delight to visit these stores by gaslight, in company with several young women of her acquaintance, and then and there expend all her superfluous cas in the purchase of various articles of adornment, and go home chatting about that “real pretty clerk who measured ribbon,” or that “real mean man who would not throw off sixpence on the muslin.” Another great enjoyment is to be escorted in the evening, by some spruce young beau, to an ice cream saloon, and there to be overwhelmed with attentions. Other girls are there to observe and admire, and other beaus to grow jealous. There is always such a pretty fountain in the centre, with a white statue throwing water over its head, and such a nice display of artificial flowers, and the waiters, in their white aprons, are as polite as though they were serving a princess. Indeed, Maggie quite imagines herself a great lady, and draws off her kid gloves with an air. Going home, they always walk slowly, and are disposed to talk sentimentally. The young man says, he “would have like to have stayed in that place for a considerable time.” And the young lady inquires “”Why?” And her escort answers, “‘Couse he had such good company.” This brings a brighter red to her cheek, and she turns away from him. Then, somehow, Maggie finds herself looking out of her little attic window, long after she ought to be asleep, wondering “whether he really meant anything by it,” and imagining the feelings of a bride, in white attire and orange flowers. Some of these bright evenings there will be more smiles and blushes, and a strong palpitation of a certain, honest heart; and after that, Maggie will “keep regular company,” and will have lovers’ quarrels, and make them up again; and finally, she will get married, and settle down as wife and mother, in some compact little second of third floor. Such a time as they will have at the wedding defies description. All the relatives and friends will be invited. Sarah’s young man, and Lizzie’s young man, will come, of course; and there will be a plentiful feast prepared for their entertainment. The rich old aunt, from Peekskill, will bring a present of teaspoons, and will make Maggie blush by whispering to her, that “in a year she will also give her a cradle.” The bridesmaid will have to endure sundry jokes, about bridesmaids being always destined for brides, in the shortest space of time. And the sisters will be informed, by all the old ladies, that their turn is coming next. All the gentlemen will salute the bride, and try to kiss the bridesmaids; and there will be much screaming, and running into corners, and the ugliest damsel will be far the easiest to capture. And after supper, there will be a good deal of singing, and a number of tunes upon the somewhat cracked piano-forte, and as much dancing as can be managed in the limited space between the table and the fireplace; and a little after midnight, the guests will take their departure, and Maggie Brewer will bid them adieu as “Mrs. Smith.”

If Maggie’s husband is prosperous, she may some day move from the second floor to a brown stone mansion, and, perhaps, eventually keep her own carriage, and a dozen servants. Should you meet her after she gets up in the world, you will recognize her by some lapses in grammar, and a habit of wearing very gay flowers in her bonnet. But, although neither refined nor educated, she will still have the same light spirit, gay heart, and nimble fingers, as when she measured ribbon for Mrs. Stitchem; and although she may be sneered at “for having risen from nothing,” and looked upon with ridicule by some of her more well born neighbors; she will be very happy, and make a loving wife, and good mother.

But Maggie Brewer is better off than the great multitude of shop girls in New York. Maggie has a home where she can live with a good, kind mother, and in the companionship of her sisters and little brother. She receives nine dollars a week for her services in the shop of Mrs. Stitchem, while her co-laborers get only three or four.

There is a mischievous spirit governing the will and actions of all working females. They seem to cherish the idea, that being women, they should live without labor. From Infancy up, they are continually counting upon assistance and support from relations or friends, or looking forward to the time when they shall have a husband to provide for their wants. It is frequently said, that in New York, there is nothing for working females to do; or that the compensation they receive is not adequate to their wants. How could it be otherwise, when there is such a total lack of care or concern, on the part of operative females, towards the interest of their employers. They work only for their wages, and anxiously watch the clock for the hour to quit. They submit to it spitefully, and only for the time being, expecting, of course, to drop it to-morrow or next week, and fly into some harbor of rest, – some have of repose, where their wants must be provided for, and where luxuries shall be showered about them. And such is the feeling of shop girls generally. No wonder then, that their employers can not pay them more. It would be unreasonable to reward their assistants for inattention and neglect. Maggie Brewer is an exception to the masses, and consequently she receives fair compensation.Some get even higher wages, but they are still more competent and useful, and increase the profit of their employers, where others would carelessly let in waste and destruction. If shop girls acted upon the same principle that men are obliged to, they would be worth far more to their employers, and feel a thousand times happier themselves.

Published in: on April 26, 2018 at 6:31 am  Leave a Comment  

Don’t Feed The…..

A comment in a FB discussion has prompted me to reboot this post. This is important.
Please be aware of those with food allergies and sensitivities at events. It was just brought to my attention that some people are bringing coconut water to events and putting that in their pitchers. This could be very bad for someone with a coconut allergy.

If I Had My Own Blue Box:

[Adding: If you don’t want to know the personal stuff, skip the italics.]

For a few weeks I’ve been occasionally thinking about writing a post about food at events and those many of us that have food issues. I kept pushing it back as silly. But, between a quasi-recent FB post about someone having food issues at an event, a less recent FB discussion about children needing allergy identifiers and today’s ALFAM post regarding interpreting butchering, I think I am going to go ahead and write a little something.

Past experiences make me want to make a yearly statement of:

Don’t get pissed off or offended if I don’t eat your food.

I have food issues. I am a long, long term, nearly 30 year vegetarian. This means I do not have the enzymes to digest meat, meat products, meat by-products, meat juices, meat flavorings, etc. I also have trouble…

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Published in: on April 21, 2018 at 8:20 am  Leave a Comment  

Millinery Materials

It seems at different times in my millinery adventure I have different favorite resources, including which is my favorite period publication. I find lately I am quite fond of M’me Demorest’s Quarterly Review. I would love to find a compilation in print for sale, for a price I can afford. At present, it appears I can get a scaled down version printed from Amazon. If it happens to be a quality printing, I would need a magnifying glass.

I thought you might be interested in this particular column from the spring of 1860:

Materials

Published in: on April 20, 2018 at 6:00 pm  Leave a Comment