If I Had My Own Blue Box:

In recognition of a particular special “anniversary”, I’ve decided to have a Sale!

My “Paper Beats Rock” sale will give you 10% off each of my e-books!
That includes:
From Field to Fashion
Paisley, Plaid, and Purled
To Net, Or Not to Net
And my hood patterns!

https://www.etsy.com/shop/AnnaWordenBauersmith?ref=l2-shopheader-name

Thank you for the exceptional review Kristen! 

https://victorianneedle.blogspot.com/2018/06/book-1-to-net-or-not-to-net-revisted.html

Or: Where to Spend It, Where to Save It.

This past weekend I fringed a plaid wool shawl for the first time in over a decade. I find fringing relaxing. This may or may not be odd for the unraveling it is and can symbolically represent. As I neared it’s completion, I thought about how little it costs and how much of a simple impression improver it is. This length of wool turned shawl costs less than the price of a pizza. My mind has since wandered to the other things that cost less than a pizza yet add to and improve someone’s impression.

Now, I don’t want you to get me wrong. I don’t want encourage shortcuts and overly-improvising for the sake of authenticity. I do believe there are things you absolutely need to spend the money one, or spend a great deal of time learning the skills for.

Where do I think you should put your piggy bank?

1. A good , custom fitted corset. You need to get yourself in front of a quality corset maker and expect to hand her or him $200. Your corset maker needs to measure you up and down as well as around and around. She/he also needs to know where you squish and where you don’t. Need to save a little here? Get yourself to a workshop with a very knowledgeable teaching staff. This isn’t going to be a class where everyone makes the same corset. Nope. It has to be custom draping for each beautifully unique body there. Plan on this being a multiple week class with a lot of home work.
2. Shoes. Don’t waste your time on cheap shoes past your trial period. Cheap shoes a pain both literally and figuratively. They will hurt the feet and the pocket book. Plan to spend $150-250 for a decent set of authentic shoes or boots. Then plan to spend a little more for the proper care, storage and maintenance. I’ll fully admit care for shoes has been a learning curve for me. But, it is important keep them clean and not dried out. Find out where your local shoe repair is, so you can get the soles replaced when the time comes. If you are a full time interpreter, this may be every year.
3. Millinery. Now, I am not just saying this because I am a milliner. Okay, maybe a little. But, the reality is cheap millinery stands out like a sore thumb, just as quality millinery can be spied across a meadow. Plan to spend $180-250 for a full decorated bonnet and $130-200 for a full decorated hat.

Are you wondering why the dress isn’t on this list? I think this is a garment you can work on for less if you can sew. With all the online destash sales so easily accessible now, it is possible to get an appropriate dress length of cotton for fraction of a store price.ive even seen nice silk and wool go for under $5/yard. Please, don’t use this as an excuse to pay a seamstress less. If you don’t sew, plan to pay your seamstress for her/his time, skill, and knowledge of period techniques 

Now, you’ve read this far. You really want to know about those “less than a pizza” purchases. Right?

For reference, I am figuring a pizza in my area runs about $25 once I get my favorite vegetables on it. It is imperative to notice these are not solely  Civil War era items. They are also in random order.

1. Wool shawl with fringed edges. This will take 2 yards of light to medium weight wool in an appropriate plaid or solid. I suggest waiting for a sale bringing the wool to under $8/yard to keep this under $25 with shipping. Or, you can keep an eye out for someone destashing a wool you like. Plan one two movies on the weekend to fringe the whole thing, or one evening per side. Check out my earlier post on fringing.
2. Market-wallet. While I’ve known about the 18th century market-wallet for a while, I finally got around to make myself some. Love them. I find they are incredibly easy to make and great practice of hand stitches. Two can be made from a single yard of medium to heavyweight natural linen.
3. Petticoat. I am of the opinion that one can never have too many petticoats to choose from. Okay, maybe there is a limit. But, really a well starched petticoat can make a world of difference to the silhouette. Most of us within a few inches of average height can make a simple petticoat of four to five yards of quality muslin or pima or Egyptian cotton found on sale. Add another yard to get a couple pretty tucks. Good muslin, that with a strong weave and full,not limp hand, can be had for $2.50/yard on sale or with a coupon. Look for pima or Egyptian cotton for sale at or under $5/yard to meet our price goal. I am assuming you have a mother of pearl or China button in your stash. If not, that is 20-50¢.
4. While we’re talking petticoats, I’ll add a wool petticoat to the list. Two yards of tropical to light weight wool is plenty for a warm wool petticoat. You may also want to a yard of scrap cotton from your stash for the waistband and a lighter weight panel at the top to gauge with less bulk. This project is most fun by utilizing someone’s destash.
5. A Pocket. Be it a pocket under the skirt (18th century into the 19th) or in the skirt, a pocket gets things out of your hands. It will also eliminate the need to have something to carry something in. A simple pocket can be made from a half yard of linen or cotton, tape or the same fabric for the waistband. The embellishment can be as little or as much as you wish. As you can see from the link, you are not limited to embroidery on linen or cotton. Pockets were made from many materials, and often from scraps.
6. Work pocket. Okay, maybe I am a little bias here. But, I do think everyone should have a work pocket, or sewing case, or housewife. Whatever period term you choose, you should have one. I would Love if you made one from my book Fanciful Utility, but I am happy as long as it is accurately made of correct materials. A work pocket is a great interpretive device. They are like a story all rolled up in fabric. (Hmmmm, this give me a post or maybe even a workshop idea.) 
7. Sunbonnet. I have a slightly different perspective on why a sunbonnet is important. While I do find shielding the face from the sun important, I want you to have an alternative headwear piece in case it is raining or hailing or there is a windstorm. I don’t want you wearing your silk or straw bonnet out in these conditions. Hop over to http://www.thesewingacademy.com for directions on how to make your own corded sunbonnet. 
8. Okay, I have more to add. But it is the end of the week and I want to post this. I will add more and repost. 

I am really having trouble with acknowledging that it is June. This is a bit odd since I’ve had this running calendar of May and June that nearly combines the weeks into one long, flowing month. I sorta hit a wall today/yesterday/which-ever-day-May-31-is-was with work stuff. Well, I guess it wasn’t so much a wall as a massive pit of sticky, muddy, gooey, gross stuff. Yep. That’s how I feel about it.

So, I desperately need to look forward to the fabulous things I have on my other plate for June and a little beyond.

New Addition

A new antique bonnet block arrived. This block is just darling. It is petite. I do not know yet if it is just a small style, a small size, or even a child’s size. Because of all the pin holes, the many many pin holes, in the plaster, I am hesitant to use it regularly to block. I may just try the one to find out what the finished piece looks like.

I will be looking into various molding processes. I need to educate myself on the options and dangers to original pieces. I would like to find a knowledgeable, skilled, local person who can cast copies of at least Serenity and this block for me. It would be great to have usable copies of all four plaster blocks.

Event – GCVM – War of 1812

June finally brings an event for me – the Genesee Country Village and Museum’s War of 1812 event. Find me in Foster, the building just ahead as you walk through the toll booth, demonstrating sewing straw hats and bonnets. I missed this event last year because I was visiting the hospital instead. So, I am doubly looking forward to this year. (right: the demo from two years ago.)

I will be bringing Regency era samples and a couple appropriate blocks this year with their corresponding hat and/or bonnet shapes. Right now, I am planning on showing the differences between a straight and a tapered crown. I think that will be easy for kids to see and match up. I am suddenly remembering I still need to make the sample books I’ve been wanting to make.

Workshop Planning

I have a couple workshops in the works. Both are yet to be official with all the details involved. But, a little bird told me one of them made someone squeak with excitement when she got a sneak peek. I am looking forward to getting the details and materials together for these. Stay tuned to find out more.

A question about Leghorn bonnets and hats made me think it would be a nice time to remind everyone of all the publications I currently offer. I realize new readers may not know about each of them. 

From Field to Fashion: The Straw Bonnet looks at the types of straw and plait used to make mid-nineteeth century straw bonnets and hats. FFtF is available in my Etsy Shop as an eBook. 

Fanciful Utility is an instructive book walking you through making Victorian sewing cases and needle-books. It is packed full of templates and projects. Fanciful Utility is available from ESC Publishing at www.thesewingacademy.com

Paisley, Plaid, and Purled discusses shawls of the mid-Victorian era, including the styles, sizes, and how they were worn. It also has directions for making your own accurate shawls. PP&P is available in my Etsy Shop as an eBook. 

To Net, or Not to Net: Revisited is my newest book, diving deep into the hair nets of the Civil War era. This book looks at the types of hair nets, how they were made, and how they were worn. TNNtN is available in my Etsy Shop as an eBook. 

I would love to have readers share their thoughts on these books.  

You know how you have random things running around in your head and need to get them out of your head?

Well, this is that.

Random things I think I need to make….

• A couple or a few linen market wallets – Carrying on my shoulders is a whole lot easier right now. This will be for going into and out of the village. Not visitor times, but still will make my life easier.
• Something lovey and sweet. There’s a thing. It’s a heart crushing thing.
• An apron with pockets for my straw. There is something just a bit humorous about sewing away, then standing up to answer a question only to have the straw on my lap fall on the floor. Then having it happen moments later. Apron… with pockets.
• The dress I started, the one with the red stripe. That needs a bodice. Then the bodice needs sleeves.
• A box for buckles and belts with buckles. Or, is it buckles with belts? Anyway. One, organized place for all of them to go, be, and return to. I am estimating a rectangle, the width of a neatly folded belt with buckle, by a length suited to three or four folded belts long and a couple or few belts tall. Plus, lid.
• That linen duffel bag I said I was going to make…. then forgot I was going to make… then was reminded about as I was pondering the above mentioned market wallet.
• Hat/bonnet stands. These should be assembled this week and awaiting the paint decision.
• The pillows. I’m supposed to be making pillows from the pretty blue fabric. It is soft and lovely.
• Cat tent. Or, did that get on hold because she got her awesome box fort? ….. Eegads, my cat has her own fabric stash.

Thank you for the brain dump. I suppose this could be considered an extension of the earlier May update.

EDIT 

Stands assembled an hour after the post. Not bad. 

Adding reweaving this doll chair to the list. 

I was wishing for a delightful twist on the story I had not yet heard when I saw this illustration in Godey’s 1855. Instead, I simply read:

This plate needs no story or poem from us to illustrate it. It will please the young reader, and call a smile to the faces of the old, who well remember when they were delighted with the story of Cinderella and the little glass slipper.

Excerpt from The Milliner’s Dream’ or, The Wedding- Bonnet, by Alice B. Neal (Godey’s Lady’s Book, 1855.)

“Goblin bonnets of every age and shape flitted before her, and jeered her lack of invention. They floated their tags and streams gayly in her face; they peered curiously at her from over her shoulders, or, joining hands, danced through the air in mocking pantomime.

“”Nothing new, nothing new,” seemed to be the burden of their mimic shapes and gestures, while a crushed, frayed, and faded apparition, arrayed in a mode long since forgotten, whispered in a shrill, melancholy voice –

“All is vanity and vexation of spirit.”

Yah. Well. Hmmm….

A pretty buckle arrived today. This is an original Gutta Percha buckle I spontaneously bought last week when I saw it really labeled for a fraction of what Gutta Percha pieces usually are. It is actually, likely a pressed horn buckle. Elizabeth painted out the layers on the back. I can confirm there are definitely layers and the beginning of flaking on the back 

I am looking forward to being able to show it alongside the beautiful reproduction Gutta Percha buckle I have by Elizabeth Aldridge. I thought it would be cool to show two with such similar motifs together. (I am envisioning a nifty display of originals and quality reproductions somewhere sometime in the future.) 

I do have a fondness for buckles. I do think I’ve pushed that line of too many. Here are a few that I have. I really wanted to share a petite pressed metal one I particularly like. I just can’t seem to find it. I like the lean line and delicate flowers on it. 

I also have nearly all of reproduction J.R. buckles exclusively offered by Ensembles of the Past. I really do have all but one, the Fleur pattern in silver, gold, black, and bronze, the Bee pattern in silver, gold, and black. 

I keep a stash of Mother of Pearl slide buckles in my sewing box for those just in case fashion emergencies. 

When looking through my blog photos , I discovered that Apparently I put together this montage of slide buckles last year just before going into the hospital. I don’t think I ever did anything with it. It seems appropriate to share it here.

I am not sure how to approach this. So, I am just going to put it out there without any sugar coating:

The cost of straw keeps going up.

Right now, hanks are running about double what they did a few years ago when the price and shipping are combined. One hank makes two to four bonnets or hats, depending on the plait width and the finished piece. I have tried to make this minimally effecte the price I am putting on my pieces so far this year. You may have noticed each hat I have listed has been $100, un-decorated. Bonnets will be a little more when I start making them.

This is a very lean price considering the quarter to half hank each hat or bonnet takes, combined with the hand sewing time, blocking and research.

On the upside – I just ordered two new colors =- a lovely peach and a deep, walnuty brown – that will arrive in a few weeks. I am hoping to get two bonnets out of each $50 hank. I am also hoping I will be able to get more of each.

Here are the colors in addition to the natural straw and black color, the last two being the new ones:

In case you are wondering…..

Yes, I can get cheaper straw. There is a reason it is cheaper. There are breaks. There are bad joins. There are sections of unusable braiding. There is mold. So, basically – That isn’t happening.

Yes, I can get modern, paper, and synthetic braids. I bought a bunch last year. I don’t like working with them for anything besides doll pieces.  So – That isn’t happening.