If I Had My Own Blue Box:

There are 2 main componants to a hat from this era: the crown and the brim. Both thd crown and brim were particularly shaped to reflect the styles of the time.

When selecting hat for an 1860-1865 impression, please keep in mind the situation you are in as well as your impression. In many cases hats had specific purposes and places. These include those for the seaside, watercures, the garden*, and recreation. There are seperate posts for these. I welcome you to explore these. There are also hats appropriate to those of poorer situations, institutionalized or previously so situations, and blockaded situations. I will be adding a post looking coarse straw and the use of palm and other make-do fibers. (*note: a gsrden hat is different than one for gardening.)

Leaen more about this style here

This next style is called a “Mousquetaire” hat or a “Postilion” hat.
Mousquetaire hats have tapered crowns that rise about four to five inches, not quite double the height of other fashion hats of the early 1860s. The brim is shaped, with a curve dipping front and back. This brim is narrow, only a few inches wide. The decorations are primarily at the center front, reaching the height of the crown. A ribbon may or may not circle the crown with a bow or arrangement in the back.

Additional variations to be covered soon:

• Smaller hats (Fashion)
• Torque (High fashion without brim) and porkpie (High fashion with little upturned brims)

Please read these hat related posts as well:

• Wearing the Mid-Nineteenth Century Hat
• Measuring (the quick version)

Nearly two years ago to today I was looking into a bonnet shape a woman called a “capote”. Last night, while sharing the black straw piece I made, I was asked what a capote is.

During the Regency era, the capote seems to be a petite bonnet that hugs the head. Sometimes it stops close to the face. Sometimes it extends just beyond. Most often capotes are described as silk or another soft material. Occasionally we see a ” Capote de Paille” or a capote of straw. Here is a lovely example of a Capote de Paille.

Google translate likes to translate “capote” as “hood.” Visually, this sorta works for the Regency era pieces. But, is doesn’t quite work when we proceed into the century when pieces are clearly bonnets. In the upper right corner we see two 1840s-50s bonnets called capotes, translated as hoods.

Here are several examples of the shape requested two years back.

I have made a few of these since they were requested. Note: The black straw is currently available in my shop.

Here is another take on the Capote.

I have so much I want to say about this past weekend. It is easiest to start with the millinery.

I decided months ago I wanted to feature my tapered crown block and the beautiful block my friend, Julie’s husband made for me last year. I got started on my display pieces much later than it planned due to some work stuff, aka test exhaustion. But, when i finally got going, I really got going. The result was the biggest bonnet I have made. (first attempt at uploading a video)

I love this piece. The block let me make these beautifully straight sides on the crown that rises 5″ in front and 6″ in back. The brim has this great curve to frame the face. The back of the brim is shaped with layering the plait in on itself. I just love the look of straw as it makes those lines. Okay, so, as I am writing this I am second guessing selling it. It is up on Etsy at this moment. I may take it down. If it does sell, it will have to ship in a Big box.

Next is the piece with the tapered crown. This piece is going to a good friend. It is much like my own chapeaux, just with a wider brim. This brim is very flattering. The piece is also very easy and comfortable to wear.

This third piece is one I made last year for this event just before I went into the hospital. This has a shallow, wide crown with deep curves supporting the shapped brim. This one is not up on Etsy yet because I am considering decorating it.

Of course, there is the piece I worked on during my demonstration. This black straw may got have been the easiest choice given the overcast sky not givong optimal light. None the less, I finished the entire capote type bonnet, including the pretty braided plait that flares at the edge of the brim. (Yes, this in the shop)

In recognition of a particular special “anniversary”, I’ve decided to have a Sale!

My “Paper Beats Rock” sale will give you 10% off each of my e-books!
That includes:
From Field to Fashion
Paisley, Plaid, and Purled
To Net, Or Not to Net
And my hood patterns!

https://www.etsy.com/shop/AnnaWordenBauersmith?ref=l2-shopheader-name

Thank you for the exceptional review Kristen! 

https://victorianneedle.blogspot.com/2018/06/book-1-to-net-or-not-to-net-revisted.html

Or: Where to Spend It, Where to Save It.

This past weekend I fringed a plaid wool shawl for the first time in over a decade. I find fringing relaxing. This may or may not be odd for the unraveling it is and can symbolically represent. As I neared it’s completion, I thought about how little it costs and how much of a simple impression improver it is. This length of wool turned shawl costs less than the price of a pizza. My mind has since wandered to the other things that cost less than a pizza yet add to and improve someone’s impression.

Now, I don’t want you to get me wrong. I don’t want encourage shortcuts and overly-improvising for the sake of authenticity. I do believe there are things you absolutely need to spend the money one, or spend a great deal of time learning the skills for.

Where do I think you should put your piggy bank?

1. A good , custom fitted corset. You need to get yourself in front of a quality corset maker and expect to hand her or him $200. Your corset maker needs to measure you up and down as well as around and around. She/he also needs to know where you squish and where you don’t. Need to save a little here? Get yourself to a workshop with a very knowledgeable teaching staff. This isn’t going to be a class where everyone makes the same corset. Nope. It has to be custom draping for each beautifully unique body there. Plan on this being a multiple week class with a lot of home work.
2. Shoes. Don’t waste your time on cheap shoes past your trial period. Cheap shoes a pain both literally and figuratively. They will hurt the feet and the pocket book. Plan to spend $150-250 for a decent set of authentic shoes or boots. Then plan to spend a little more for the proper care, storage and maintenance. I’ll fully admit care for shoes has been a learning curve for me. But, it is important keep them clean and not dried out. Find out where your local shoe repair is, so you can get the soles replaced when the time comes. If you are a full time interpreter, this may be every year.
3. Millinery. Now, I am not just saying this because I am a milliner. Okay, maybe a little. But, the reality is cheap millinery stands out like a sore thumb, just as quality millinery can be spied across a meadow. Plan to spend $180-250 for a full decorated bonnet and $130-200 for a full decorated hat.

Are you wondering why the dress isn’t on this list? I think this is a garment you can work on for less if you can sew. With all the online destash sales so easily accessible now, it is possible to get an appropriate dress length of cotton for fraction of a store price.ive even seen nice silk and wool go for under $5/yard. Please, don’t use this as an excuse to pay a seamstress less. If you don’t sew, plan to pay your seamstress for her/his time, skill, and knowledge of period techniques 

Now, you’ve read this far. You really want to know about those “less than a pizza” purchases. Right?

For reference, I am figuring a pizza in my area runs about $25 once I get my favorite vegetables on it. It is imperative to notice these are not solely  Civil War era items. They are also in random order.

1. Wool shawl with fringed edges. This will take 2 yards of light to medium weight wool in an appropriate plaid or solid. I suggest waiting for a sale bringing the wool to under $8/yard to keep this under $25 with shipping. Or, you can keep an eye out for someone destashing a wool you like. Plan one two movies on the weekend to fringe the whole thing, or one evening per side. Check out my earlier post on fringing.
2. Market-wallet. While I’ve known about the 18th century market-wallet for a while, I finally got around to make myself some. Love them. I find they are incredibly easy to make and great practice of hand stitches. Two can be made from a single yard of medium to heavyweight natural linen.
3. Petticoat. I am of the opinion that one can never have too many petticoats to choose from. Okay, maybe there is a limit. But, really a well starched petticoat can make a world of difference to the silhouette. Most of us within a few inches of average height can make a simple petticoat of four to five yards of quality muslin or pima or Egyptian cotton found on sale. Add another yard to get a couple pretty tucks. Good muslin, that with a strong weave and full,not limp hand, can be had for $2.50/yard on sale or with a coupon. Look for pima or Egyptian cotton for sale at or under $5/yard to meet our price goal. I am assuming you have a mother of pearl or China button in your stash. If not, that is 20-50¢.
4. While we’re talking petticoats, I’ll add a wool petticoat to the list. Two yards of tropical to light weight wool is plenty for a warm wool petticoat. You may also want to a yard of scrap cotton from your stash for the waistband and a lighter weight panel at the top to gauge with less bulk. This project is most fun by utilizing someone’s destash.
5. A Pocket. Be it a pocket under the skirt (18th century into the 19th) or in the skirt, a pocket gets things out of your hands. It will also eliminate the need to have something to carry something in. A simple pocket can be made from a half yard of linen or cotton, tape or the same fabric for the waistband. The embellishment can be as little or as much as you wish. As you can see from the link, you are not limited to embroidery on linen or cotton. Pockets were made from many materials, and often from scraps.
6. Work pocket. Okay, maybe I am a little bias here. But, I do think everyone should have a work pocket, or sewing case, or housewife. Whatever period term you choose, you should have one. I would Love if you made one from my book Fanciful Utility, but I am happy as long as it is accurately made of correct materials. A work pocket is a great interpretive device. They are like a story all rolled up in fabric. (Hmmmm, this give me a post or maybe even a workshop idea.) 
7. Sunbonnet. I have a slightly different perspective on why a sunbonnet is important. While I do find shielding the face from the sun important, I want you to have an alternative headwear piece in case it is raining or hailing or there is a windstorm. I don’t want you wearing your silk or straw bonnet out in these conditions. Hop over to http://www.thesewingacademy.com for directions on how to make your own corded sunbonnet. 
8. Okay, I have more to add. But it is the end of the week and I want to post this. I will add more and repost. 

I am really having trouble with acknowledging that it is June. This is a bit odd since I’ve had this running calendar of May and June that nearly combines the weeks into one long, flowing month. I sorta hit a wall today/yesterday/which-ever-day-May-31-is-was with work stuff. Well, I guess it wasn’t so much a wall as a massive pit of sticky, muddy, gooey, gross stuff. Yep. That’s how I feel about it.

So, I desperately need to look forward to the fabulous things I have on my other plate for June and a little beyond.

New Addition

A new antique bonnet block arrived. This block is just darling. It is petite. I do not know yet if it is just a small style, a small size, or even a child’s size. Because of all the pin holes, the many many pin holes, in the plaster, I am hesitant to use it regularly to block. I may just try the one to find out what the finished piece looks like.

I will be looking into various molding processes. I need to educate myself on the options and dangers to original pieces. I would like to find a knowledgeable, skilled, local person who can cast copies of at least Serenity and this block for me. It would be great to have usable copies of all four plaster blocks.

Event – GCVM – War of 1812

June finally brings an event for me – the Genesee Country Village and Museum’s War of 1812 event. Find me in Foster, the building just ahead as you walk through the toll booth, demonstrating sewing straw hats and bonnets. I missed this event last year because I was visiting the hospital instead. So, I am doubly looking forward to this year. (right: the demo from two years ago.)

I will be bringing Regency era samples and a couple appropriate blocks this year with their corresponding hat and/or bonnet shapes. Right now, I am planning on showing the differences between a straight and a tapered crown. I think that will be easy for kids to see and match up. I am suddenly remembering I still need to make the sample books I’ve been wanting to make.

Workshop Planning

I have a couple workshops in the works. Both are yet to be official with all the details involved. But, a little bird told me one of them made someone squeak with excitement when she got a sneak peek. I am looking forward to getting the details and materials together for these. Stay tuned to find out more.

A question about Leghorn bonnets and hats made me think it would be a nice time to remind everyone of all the publications I currently offer. I realize new readers may not know about each of them. 

From Field to Fashion: The Straw Bonnet looks at the types of straw and plait used to make mid-nineteeth century straw bonnets and hats. FFtF is available in my Etsy Shop as an eBook. 

Fanciful Utility is an instructive book walking you through making Victorian sewing cases and needle-books. It is packed full of templates and projects. Fanciful Utility is available from ESC Publishing at www.thesewingacademy.com

Paisley, Plaid, and Purled discusses shawls of the mid-Victorian era, including the styles, sizes, and how they were worn. It also has directions for making your own accurate shawls. PP&P is available in my Etsy Shop as an eBook. 

To Net, or Not to Net: Revisited is my newest book, diving deep into the hair nets of the Civil War era. This book looks at the types of hair nets, how they were made, and how they were worn. TNNtN is available in my Etsy Shop as an eBook. 

I would love to have readers share their thoughts on these books.  

You know how you have random things running around in your head and need to get them out of your head?

Well, this is that.

Random things I think I need to make….

• A couple or a few linen market wallets – Carrying on my shoulders is a whole lot easier right now. This will be for going into and out of the village. Not visitor times, but still will make my life easier.
• Something lovey and sweet. There’s a thing. It’s a heart crushing thing.
• An apron with pockets for my straw. There is something just a bit humorous about sewing away, then standing up to answer a question only to have the straw on my lap fall on the floor. Then having it happen moments later. Apron… with pockets.
• The dress I started, the one with the red stripe. That needs a bodice. Then the bodice needs sleeves.
• A box for buckles and belts with buckles. Or, is it buckles with belts? Anyway. One, organized place for all of them to go, be, and return to. I am estimating a rectangle, the width of a neatly folded belt with buckle, by a length suited to three or four folded belts long and a couple or few belts tall. Plus, lid.
• That linen duffel bag I said I was going to make…. then forgot I was going to make… then was reminded about as I was pondering the above mentioned market wallet.
• Hat/bonnet stands. These should be assembled this week and awaiting the paint decision.
• The pillows. I’m supposed to be making pillows from the pretty blue fabric. It is soft and lovely.
• Cat tent. Or, did that get on hold because she got her awesome box fort? ….. Eegads, my cat has her own fabric stash.

Thank you for the brain dump. I suppose this could be considered an extension of the earlier May update.

EDIT 

Stands assembled an hour after the post. Not bad. 

Adding reweaving this doll chair to the list. 

I was wishing for a delightful twist on the story I had not yet heard when I saw this illustration in Godey’s 1855. Instead, I simply read:

This plate needs no story or poem from us to illustrate it. It will please the young reader, and call a smile to the faces of the old, who well remember when they were delighted with the story of Cinderella and the little glass slipper.