Mother’s Day at Genesee Country Village & Museum

I was very pleased when mom asked to go to the museum for Mother’s Day. Here are some of the highlights. (I will save you from my inablity to take runway photos. But, I assure you the fashion show was wonderful.)

 

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First stop was the gallery to see the Green Collection. It was neat to see that mom had to open every drawer and read every label. While mom got her first look at the collection, I took a closer look at some of the men’s Regency clothing. I also decided I simply must find some horsehair braid. Silly, fabulous 80s.

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Mom particluarly enjoyed the kerchiefs. Her favorite is the upper left.

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Of course the quilts in the lobby caught our attention. Grandma spent so many years quilting at the museum. She enjoyed working on the “A Stitch in Time” project.

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If you are in the area, come out the the museum next Sunday for Red Day. I’ll be finishing up my dress this week, so I can volunteer on this fun day. I am going to get a few copies of “A Stitch in Time” signed.

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Each time we stepped into a village kitchen we could smell chocolate and get a taste. Heritage Chocolate is available in the gift shop and on the museum’s website (www.gcv.org) If you haven’t had a chance to taste this chocolate, I highly recommend it. If I have to pick, the small balls of chocolate with a hint of orange at Livingston was my favorite.

It was off to the fashion show after a stroll by all the animals.

 

Published in: on May 12, 2013 at 6:43 pm  Leave a Comment  
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A Lesson in Economy

In  the lesson “Economy” from The Village Reader (1841) we find this little story.

“If you please, mother, I will now tell you why I called Mrs. Marsh stingy; and I am sure, much as you like economy, you will think she carried it a little too far.” When she had detailed the occurrences of the morning, she added—” Now that seems a saving too small to be worth any one’s attention.”

 “That, my dear, is because you think of the ‘little matters’ alone, and not, as you should, in connection with the very serious consequences, which flow from daily and hourly neglecting such ‘little matters.’ One cent a day seems very little indeed; but I should like to have you tell me how much it would amount to in a year.”

 Elizabeth, after a momentary pause, answered, ” Three dollars and sixty-five cents; is it possible!”

 “Certainly, my dear. ‘Little matters,’ you see, by continual accumulation, amount to great matters in time. Drops make the ocean; minutes make the year.”

 “Well, mother, I believe I must allow that my opinion of Mrs. Marsh was too hastily formed.”

 “And not very decorously expressed—you will acknowledge that, too, my daughter, I hope.”

 “Yes, mother,” answered Elizabeth, with a crimson cheek. “But still I cannot think Mrs. Marsh was quite right; for when we went into the milliner’s shop, she de clined purchasing a bonnet for Laura, which she reall needs.”

 “Perhaps she wants it, but does not need it.”

 “Indeed, mother, the milliner said she needed one and Laura said so; and I said so. Now I am sure you think that parents ought to supply the wants of their children, if they can.”

 “Certainly, my dear, the real wants, but not the fancied wants. If I rightly remember, Laura’s bonnet is quite fresh and clean.”

 “Yes, but that is because she is so careful of every thing; she has worn it a long time.”

 “That is no reason why she should not continue to wear it, if it be unsoiled and unfaded.”

 “But it is so unfashionable, mother.”

 “Unfashionable! What magic is in the sound! No matter how comfortable, or pretty, or becoming any thing is, let but that word be breathed over it, and it passes at once into oblivion! But this is not to the purpose. I think Mrs. Marsh was quite right in judging for herself about what she could afford, or what was proper for her to purchase, instead of suffering herself to be led by others. She best knows her own resources, and the demands likely to be made upon them.

 “Mrs. Marsh is not rich. She has enough for the comforts of life—nothing for its costly decorations. Yet limited as her income is, she contrives by her excellent management to command all that is really valuable and useful; all that can actually add to the happiness of herself and family.

 “You can perceive, my dear, that if there be only money enough to purchase necessary and useful things, and part of it go for superfluities, there must be a deficiency of the others. You would not much like to see your friend Laura with a new bonnet, and an old, untidy pair of shoes; or with a pretty necklace and a faded dress. It would shock Mrs. Marsh’s taste, even more than yours. There is a beautiful fitness and propriety in her whole establishment, which shows her judgment and good sense.

 “She has the true economy to proportion her expenses to her income, while she makes it produce to her family all the happiness it is capable of producing; and she has the true wisdom to wish for those things only, which it is proper and right for her to have. If the occurrences and conversation of this morning prove a salutary lesson to you, if [sic]  will make Mrs. Marsh your model in the management [sic] your yearly allowance, I shall dare to hope that you will [sic[ time become as useful and estimable a woman.”

Enjoy this article? Consider one of my straw bonnets available through Etsy.

 

Published in: on May 11, 2013 at 8:00 am  Comments (1)  
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Bodice Update 2

I finally did it. I cut into the sari.
I’ll back up. Tonight was dedicated to working on both my Netherfield Ball bodice and my green dress bodice.
First up, the green dress, which needs a name. This was a fairly easy cut & assemble process. As I dove right in, I forgot I wanted to line up the back on the wider stripe. Oh, well. Rather than do the jewel neckline, then regret not doing the gathered V neck I love so much and find more comfortable when I have one of my over heating or forgot to eat right spell, I went with the gathered V. I can alway change it out after. I have yet to decide gathering placement. Each has its adventages.

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Next came cutting the NB bodice from the sari. I’ve had a particular section of the sari in mind for the bodice from the start. The pieces barely fit.

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This is one project where every bit of scrap will be saved just incase. I was particularly happy with how the white read through the silk. The color firmly became a lovely peach rather than ‘I might be orange’. I hope you can see the difference here.

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I was hoping to get Dan’s book started as well. But, I ended up proofing my little sister’s research paper. Nicely done. I look forward to hearing what her teacher thinks of a particular phrase.
Next up – Hand finishing the green bodice and deciding on sleeves. Also, getting Dan to stand still for draping.

Published in: on May 9, 2013 at 7:22 pm  Leave a Comment  

All Those Odds and Ends

Now that it is May…. there are only 4 weeks of classes left… the Museum opens this weekend…. Dan has an event next weekend… and I will dress next weekend…. I am having one of those “eegads!” moments. Okay, a series of them. 

Odds and ends of items keep popping into my head. These are pieces I forgot needed to get made, hadn’t thought of or just have been lingering. Some really are not small pieces either.

So, here it is. My long delayed list of items that should have been made months ago, in completely random order:

  • Dan’s book. (I told him I would make him the book he had been wanting for our anniversary.)
  • A general volunteering dress of a tbd date and style. (I would love an excuse to make up the sprigged muslin or welcome a kick in the bottom to get to work on the travel dress. This would be nice for my red/brown fabric)
  • Lily needs a real bag as the one I made her years back just isn’t up to par any more. I am picturing a nice frameless carpet bag.
  • I need a carpet, carpet bag. I love my fabric carpet bags. But, after making the museum’s bags, I really feel like I aught to have an awesome carpet bag.
  • Dan needs better carry-all type bags or box or something. He has his pair of duffle bags and carpet bags that are just way too out of proportion. (long and short. difficult to hold anything.) (What I really should do is pull the frames out of those bags. Remake that fabric into a more suitable, frameless version. Then use the frames for bags more proportionate.)
  • That long, long list of travel  items.
  • The Jenny Lind style fan. This will require finding the damaged fan base I intended to use for this.
  • Lily’s stays
  • Fix my cage. This means reattach the tapes to the bones and strengthen all the other joinings. This poor cage has taken a beating during limb0-living.
  • Alter one cage for Lily.
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     Just to make things interesting, here is this month’s “If I could make a dress per decade” list. (I am defaulting to the MET’s dating today.):

  • 1800-10 – I want this fabric to do this dress.
  • 1810-20 – I want to squish together this dress and this dress.
  • 1820-30 – I love this bodice along with the soft smoothness. (I also really like this one from completely different reasons. Light, air & adorable. Then there is this one for the early part of the decade.)
  • 1830-40 – This dress in just this fabric. But, it would have to be for someone lean like my sister.
  • 1840-50 – The lines curving through the bodice and the pleated trim set into the piped edge look like so much fun to make, while the dress looks so comfortable to weare
  • 1850-60 – Not my normal pick for this decade. Someone showed me this dress the other day. Can anything look so comfy? This is a print I would expect to see on a quilt weight fabric, but I would love to find it in a shirting or lawn.
  • 1860-70
  • 1870-1880 – Maybe
  • 1880-90
  • 1890-1899  
Published in: on May 9, 2013 at 4:00 pm  Leave a Comment  

Skirt Choices

I keep changing my mind. For my Netherfield Ball dress, should I….
Put this solid gold pattern panel down the center? It is a bit geometric in feel. It isn’t symetrical. It does have omph.

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OR
Put the ‘field’ of closely spaced motifs in the front with the loosely spaced motif around the back? I think this will move nicely.

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Comments Very welcome.

Green dress update – Skirt assembled and set. I’m hoping to get a good portion of the hem done as well.

10 o’clock update – Thanks to stumbling upon a playing of Mansfield Park, the green skirt is faced & hemmed. Bodices cut tomorrow.

Published in: on May 8, 2013 at 7:43 pm  Comments (4)  

Bodice Update

I have managed to meet my goal for the evening. Both mock-ups and patterns are worked through for the Netherfield Ball dress and the green plaid sheer dress. A mix of corsetry and fitting thoughts….
As I put it on, I realized this was the first time I put my 50s/60s corset on in nearly a year. It is a good thing I did. Lets just say I am a tad over the 4″ gap ideal. Luckily, the shape of me is still basically the shape of it, just a few even inches fluffier. The girls are puckering or over flowing or overly uncomfortable. How odd is it that I am more comfortable with a gap reduction goal than a weight reduction goal? 
I have discovered the easiest was for me to put on my Regency stays is to lay down. The girls rest upward, out-of-the-way while I lace up the front. When I sit or stand up, everything rests nicely into place. This does remind me of Missy’s suggested method of getting her earlier 18th century stays to fit and sit right. She suggested leaning over forward to get everything in position. Now, in the case of today, I layed down on the floor and just didn’t want to get up. Btw – Have I mentioned lately how comfortable these stays are? I like them so much, I want to make another pair just because. Yes, this does sound like an easy way to tempt me into another era permanently.
On to the bodices. The mock-up for the green dress went easier than I thought. I pulled out the pattern I used for my Fort Stanton dress. Oddly, it was the back I found to be too big. I transitioned what I’m removing to the back side. The center front line did change angle a bit. Other than a slight change in the armscye just to please the eye, that was almost it. The other bit is a bad posture problem. I slouch. Bad, bad me. This has caused the back of the neckline to stick up. Option 1 is a tiny dart hidden under the collar. Option 2 is to recut the neckline as much as a half-inch in the back. I’m not sure which I will do.
The Regency bodice was a little more fussy. Why do I want a cross-over bodice so much? Because I do. I think I have the angle of the cross-over right. I do feel like it is very low-cut. While the angle is nice, narrow shoulders, a short shoulder to bust distance and a large bust result in a deep plunge. I will be adding a horizontal panel inside the center. I may also completely raise the line a half-inch. I do have to take a close look to see if originals have the bodice end just under the bust or just below.
Here are some photos of my thought process:

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The green fabric is safely in the wash so I won’t be tempted to cut into it tonight.

Hopeful schedule:

  • Wednesday – Assemble green skirt (make Dan’s book if possible) Skirt assembled, set, hem faced at 10 pm. 🙂 Didn’t get to Dan’s book 😦
  • Thursday – Cut out green bodice and NB bodice.  Cut out NB skirt & piece panels Postponing skirt
  • Friday/Sat/Sun – Get Dan to stand still so I can drape his coat and waist coat. Cut bias. Do what hand work I can.
  • Monday – Assemble green bodice. Decide on sleeves
  • Tuesday – Assemble & attach sleeves. Put bodice & skirt together (green dress)
  • Wednesday – Handfinishing on bodice (green dress)
  • Thursday – Finish hem
  • Friday – pack & see Dan off. Last minute finishings. Finish bonnet to wear. (Hope ribbon arrives.)
  • Satuday – Work on NB dress as much as possible. Draft Dan’s coat & waist coat
  • Sunday – Wear green dress
  • Monday until? – Focus on NB clothes.
Published in: on May 6, 2013 at 6:44 pm  Comments (1)  

CDVs to Share

I happened upon a table of CDVs at the fleamarket this weekend. At 50 cents each, they were just the right price for my exceedingly light purse of late. Of the couple hundred images I flipped through, there were only three from the early to mid 1860s. I am happy to share them with you.

This first image shows us wonderfully clean lines.  I think she had this image taken possibly in 64 or 65 based on the slightly raised collar and the large box pleats in her skirt.  

This is a good image to help someone understand the structure of the shoulder for this time. Her striped fabric help show how the front bodice panel is cut. The bit of trim she used accents the slightly dropped armscye position. We also see a basic coat sleeve. She, or her dress maker, chose to position the upper portion of the coat sleeve on the grain, allowing the elbow and lower sleeve to fall somewhat across the grain. Her cuffs or possibly undersleeve peak out of her sleeve that lands at least an inch above her wrist. (I’ll admit, I am one who fusses with my sleeve lengths once the dress is made.

I can’t help but notice her buttons, or actually the position of one particular button. As a busty woman, I find that mid-bust button essential. You can even see how that button, her 5th one down, has more pull on it that those above. I’m curios about her belt. It appears to me to be self fabric  with the stripes running horizontally. This may be an illusion of shadows. But, either way, take a look at the closure. To me that looks like a fabric “loop” for the lack of a better word, which the belt slides through. You can also clearly see the braid on her hem. May 5th c

 

Next we have a woman with similarly simply kept, neat hair. This image has several neat tid-bits to ponder. I really want to take her bow off to see her full neckline. I can not quite tell if the white is a single piece or a tucker and collar separately. On the left side of her neck, I want to say collar because it looks like the white goes over the dark of the dress. On the opposite side, it looks like the dress is going over the white. I would love to know what other see. Now, that bow. I want to place this image as transitioning from the 50s into the 60s because of the V of the bodice. The thing is, that bow, the size of that bow just doesnt’ fit for that timing because I see the bows this size coming later. The other thing about the bow is against that little pin, the fabric  seems rather wrinkled to me.

I do think this image is nice timing for those of us who have recently or are just now getting out our clothes after a long running winter, to find things are a bit….. snug. The lower half of her bodice is just that. The fabric is taught against her corset with tension lines/wrinkles running horizontally through her whole ribcage. A very nice, reaffirming thing to see.

Now look at her belt. Do you see how she’s closed this ribbon belt with a simple pin? Nice.

Looking at her sleeves, we see she has more of a drop in her armscye than the woman above. The eye is pulled further down by her sleeve cap. This cap is quite deep, appearing to go halfway to her elbow, and trimmed with velvet. The velvet is used again at her cuff along with what may be two or three buttons. This, too is a coat sleeve construction, with a more fitted wrist. May 5th A

 This was the first image in my ‘yes’ pile. Look at that expression! She looks so happy to have her photo taken. I wonder what this kid was like because neat and pressed don’t shine through in this image, more of slightly, though naturally dishevelled. Her neckline is a bit askew, her skirt has wrinkles and she looks like she is putting in every effort to stand still for the camera. For me, this image has life. Now, as far as her clothing. I don’t know as much about children’s clothing. I see a neat trim or tucker around her open neckline. What I’ve heard called an ‘infant bodice’. Her shoulders look slightly dropped, with simple sleeves. The trim on her skirt looks like a trio of stripes that could be another fabric or ribbon. Her skirts do seem petticoat full. I’m having trouble seeing the feet area because of some markings on the image itself and something I think is behind her. (Don’t crush my interpretation of her expression saying that is a stand to aid her in her pose and the expression is one of irritation.) She does look like she’s wearing boots. May 5th b

Published in: on May 6, 2013 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment  

New Dress/Sewing Plan

Miscommunication becomes a new dress plan. It turns out I thought we were planning one event for an upcoming weekend, while Dan had plans for another weekend. Upon this realization last night, my brain became quite muddled with thoughts of availability reshuffling. This meant I am now available to volunteer for a particular fun day, if I am needed. Yeah. Then came the thought – Eeek, dress?

I’ve been so focused on the Netherfield Ball clothes, and honestly having little freak-out session over not knowing the detailed ins and outs, that I haven’t put a single thought to a mid-century dress that actually fits. Not one moment of thought.

Oh, did I mention it is May already?

So, this week there will be a new dress.

I will be using the semi-sheer green plaid on the left. (Yes, this is one of the fabrics I was thinking about dyeing. Too late for that.)

I have two different dress thoughts – Simple, basic, versatile is one idea. The other is a 50s to 60s comparison. Since I have the same fabric in another colorway, a peachy/pinkish color, I like the idea of doing one as 50s and one as 60s, this being the 60s.

But, time is a factor here. Did I mention it is already May and I still haven’t mocked up Dan’s Netherfield Ball clothes?

The plan and the options….

Skirt – Sticking to a plain skirt. I can always add trims later.

Neckline – Basic pearl neckline. While I prefer a V neckline on my sheers, I can/should do a nice V neck on the 50s dress.

Sleeves – Open or closed??? I would like to do an open sleeve with tiers in the skirt for the 50s dress, assuming I have enough fabric. Does that encourage or discourage me from doing an open sleeve for this dress? Hmm?  I do rather like the idea of an open sleeve. (I used to find them such a bother to wear.) This one looks like it would be very comfortable in the heat. It may also be nice to mimic the sleeve I have on the original brown dress. If I did a coat sleeve or a bishop sleeve, I would be tempted to do something with the top of the sleeve. Do I really want additional fabric at the top? I don’t think I do. (Though, I can always change that.)

 Bodice – Basic, gathered bodice with half high lining.

Sounds like a plan. My hope is to cut out and fit both my Regency dress mock-up and the mock-up for this Monday night. I know I can work through this dress fairly quickly. It will be good to do a dress I am confident about doing before confusing myself more (again) on the Regency clothing.

Of course, after all this thinking, I had to remember this dress. How lovely it would be to have a cross-over sheer. Oh, the comfort.

PS – I loved the fabric on the right when I bought it. Since then… I’m not sure. Thoughts?

Published in: on May 5, 2013 at 8:00 pm  Comments (4)  

Reproduction Gutta Percha Belt Buckle

I have long wanted a reproduction* gutta percha belt buckle. Guess what surprised me in my mailbox today.
A most beautiful buckle from Aldridge Clothiers. This, the  “Forget Me Not Buckle” is one of several buckles they offer along with earrings and broaches.

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I am very impessed with the detail. I hope you can see it in this photo. The morning glories are lovely.

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I grabbed some of my petersham ribbon to compare. I have yet to decide which ribbon to go with. The helpful insert that comes with the buckle suggests velvet ribbon.

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If you are looking for an excellent reproduction piece, please visit Aldridge Clothiers.

Published in: on May 4, 2013 at 6:57 pm  Leave a Comment  

A Must Read with exerpts

Today I offer a “Must Read”. This book happens to be from 1872. Regardless of what era you portray, this book is a Must. Just keep in mind the year. The chapter “How and What to Buy” walks through the fabrics available in the 1870s, looking at widths, weave, price, use, and quality. How I wish I had a book such as this on hand for each decade of the 1800s.

Please add Hints on Dress, or what to Wear, When to Wear it and How to Buy it by Ethel Gale( 1872) to your reading list.  http://books.google.com/books?id=hlkRnnkqFbIC&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false

As we are talking about millinery this spring, there are a couple passages to which I would draw your attention.

“Bonnet’s silks – rank as next finest in quality. These are twenty inches wide, and vary in price according to the weight and “finish,” from $2.75 to $8.00 per yard. The lower priced are too light for much service, while the higher, though beautifully finished, are so heavy and closely woven that they are liable to break, and on account of a tendency to hold dust, should never be used for walking dresses. For the latter purpose the medium qualities, lettered G, H, I and J, ranging from $4.50 to $5.50 per yard, are the best of the Bonnet silks.”

“Black English crape for veils comes in two widths, one yard and a quarter, and one yard; and of several qualities, from that sold at $4.50 per yard to that at $8.50; those at $6.00 and $7.00 being equally serviceable if not quite as heavy as those above these prices. Trimming crapes of the same qualities are found in narrower widths, vary from $3.00 to $6.00 per yard. Those at $4.50 and $5.00 being sufficiently good for all useful purposes.”

“Bonnet velvets, eighteen inches wide, cost from $4.50 to $5.50 per yard, the price depending more upon the tint than the quality.”

 There is a similar text online coming from England – How to Dress on L15 a Year as a Lady. Though, I must say I find the recommendation for a straw bonnet to be soft enough to sit on without damage a silly one. A well wired and blocked bonnet will wear well for years if cared for. A soft straw will become floppy, sag and lose its shape requiring the attention of the milliner regularly. Granted, this author also talks about changing out the ribbons to go with each dress. This is a thought process very different than the decades prior.

Published in: on May 1, 2013 at 4:00 pm  Leave a Comment