Bodice Update

I have managed to meet my goal for the evening. Both mock-ups and patterns are worked through for the Netherfield Ball dress and the green plaid sheer dress. A mix of corsetry and fitting thoughts….
As I put it on, I realized this was the first time I put my 50s/60s corset on in nearly a year. It is a good thing I did. Lets just say I am a tad over the 4″ gap ideal. Luckily, the shape of me is still basically the shape of it, just a few even inches fluffier. The girls are puckering or over flowing or overly uncomfortable. How odd is it that I am more comfortable with a gap reduction goal than a weight reduction goal? 
I have discovered the easiest was for me to put on my Regency stays is to lay down. The girls rest upward, out-of-the-way while I lace up the front. When I sit or stand up, everything rests nicely into place. This does remind me of Missy’s suggested method of getting her earlier 18th century stays to fit and sit right. She suggested leaning over forward to get everything in position. Now, in the case of today, I layed down on the floor and just didn’t want to get up. Btw – Have I mentioned lately how comfortable these stays are? I like them so much, I want to make another pair just because. Yes, this does sound like an easy way to tempt me into another era permanently.
On to the bodices. The mock-up for the green dress went easier than I thought. I pulled out the pattern I used for my Fort Stanton dress. Oddly, it was the back I found to be too big. I transitioned what I’m removing to the back side. The center front line did change angle a bit. Other than a slight change in the armscye just to please the eye, that was almost it. The other bit is a bad posture problem. I slouch. Bad, bad me. This has caused the back of the neckline to stick up. Option 1 is a tiny dart hidden under the collar. Option 2 is to recut the neckline as much as a half-inch in the back. I’m not sure which I will do.
The Regency bodice was a little more fussy. Why do I want a cross-over bodice so much? Because I do. I think I have the angle of the cross-over right. I do feel like it is very low-cut. While the angle is nice, narrow shoulders, a short shoulder to bust distance and a large bust result in a deep plunge. I will be adding a horizontal panel inside the center. I may also completely raise the line a half-inch. I do have to take a close look to see if originals have the bodice end just under the bust or just below.
Here are some photos of my thought process:



The green fabric is safely in the wash so I won’t be tempted to cut into it tonight.

Hopeful schedule:

  • Wednesday – Assemble green skirt (make Dan’s book if possible) Skirt assembled, set, hem faced at 10 pm. 🙂 Didn’t get to Dan’s book 😦
  • Thursday – Cut out green bodice and NB bodice.  Cut out NB skirt & piece panels Postponing skirt
  • Friday/Sat/Sun – Get Dan to stand still so I can drape his coat and waist coat. Cut bias. Do what hand work I can.
  • Monday – Assemble green bodice. Decide on sleeves
  • Tuesday – Assemble & attach sleeves. Put bodice & skirt together (green dress)
  • Wednesday – Handfinishing on bodice (green dress)
  • Thursday – Finish hem
  • Friday – pack & see Dan off. Last minute finishings. Finish bonnet to wear. (Hope ribbon arrives.)
  • Satuday – Work on NB dress as much as possible. Draft Dan’s coat & waist coat
  • Sunday – Wear green dress
  • Monday until? – Focus on NB clothes.
Published in: on May 6, 2013 at 6:44 pm  Comments (1)  

One CommentLeave a comment

  1. Dear Anna,

    Ooh, you’ve patterned the cross-front dress! Yes, after 1860s and 50s wear, cross-fronts feel practically indecent. Hence, during daytime, the need for the neckerchief and other coverage. In evening, well…it was a more robust period, let us say, in the partying department, than was later the norm?

    Oh, by the way, the millinery series has been great fun. If I did mid-century these days I’d be tempted to do a bonnet just from reading them.

    Very best,

    Natalie (aka Zip Zip)

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