Soft Crown Straw Bonnet Frame

While finishing up the last bonnet, I had the idea of doing something ‘different’ stuck in my head. It was either going to be a soft crown frame or a combination buckram and straw frame. With this being 1863, and 1864 just around the corner, a fashionable soft crown frame it was.
Wow, was this guy fiddly. I really don’t know if I’ll make another, ever. It would take some begging. Anyway.
This is a natural straw plait handsewn. The bonnet is an average to large. The future owner will finish the soft crown with her choice of silk, tacked to the brim of the straw and gathered onto the crown wire. There are several colors I could see this finished with. I am very curious how it would look done with a sheer.

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Faniciful Utility Book Signing!!!

Come visit me at the Genesee Country Village and Museum. I will be signing Fanciful Utility in the Dressmaker’s Shop.

FanU GCVM book signing July 2013

This is the adorable pink building I enjoyed spending the day in a couple weeks ago. It is just off the village square. Directly across the road is the Village Merchantile where Fanciful Utility will be available. Stop in to say ‘hi’ and get your copy signed.

Announcing the FanU Fabric Swaps

Love Fanciful Utility? Want more fabrics to play with? Here is just the thing for you – FanU Fabric Swaps!!!

To meet a variety of interests, we’ll have three different swaps – a Cotton Swap, a Silk Swap and a Crazy Swap; sign up for one or more! You can even sign up to be in more than one swap group within each category if you’d like.

sewing group

What is a Swap?

This is a chance for to exchange fabric with a small group of people. Each group will have 8 people exchanging pieces of fabric. All you need is a half yard of fabric and envelops along with your copy of Fanciful Utility.

To Participate:

1: Sign Up Day!
On sign-up day, groups will be assigned on a first-in basis; the first eight will be the first swap group, second eight in the second group, etc.

Cotton Sign-Up Day: July 15
Silk Sign-Up Day: August 19
Crazy Sign-Up Day: September 23

2: Mail-Out Day:
Place a 9×9″ piece of fabric suited to the mid-19th century in envelopes for each of the 7 other people in your swap group, stamp them (be sure to double check at the post office, but the small 9×9″ pieces should mail in a regular envelope with a normal stamp), and send them off no later than the Mail-Out Day.
Cotton Mail-Out Day: July 23
Silk Mail-Out Day: August 26
Crazy Mail-Out Day: September 30

3: Get Fanciful!
Use your Fanciful Utility templates and techniques to make a project from the book, or copy your own from 19th century sources. We’ll all look forward to seeing your projects! You don’t have to sew right away, but don’t keep us waiting forever to see all the fun things!

(If you need a copy of Fanciful Utility, you can purchase them from the publisher at www.thesewingacademy.com

Fabric Guidelines:

  1. For the cotton and silk categories, your fabric should be mid-nineteenth century appropriate. (If there is a want for an earlier or later group, we can do that.) Prints and motifs should reflect those available in the 1840s, 50s and 60s. Cotton should be 100% cotton. Silk should be 100% silk.
  2. To keep the swap and sewing possibilities interesting, please avoid solids as best we can.
  3. Fabrics that do not work well for sewing cases should not be swapped. These include sheers, gauzes, heavy, thick, easy-to-fray, slippery and stretch fabrics.
  4. For the “crazy swap” category, think crazy quilt in a sewing case. This could include satins, velvets, textured fabrics. Quality synthetic fabrics are invited.  

Q&A

Yes, you can participate in 1, 2 or 3 of the swaps.

Yes, if we end up with multiple groups, you can participate in more than one group to swap more fabric. If you participate in 2 groups, you should swap 2 fabrics.

Yes, you can swap large and small scale prints.

Yes, you can swap now and sew later.

Yes, we would love to see what you’ve made with the swapped fabric.

Yes, you can use your own fabric in your swapped project.

Published in: on July 3, 2013 at 1:46 pm  Comments (4)  

Third Summer Bonnet

Okay, I really need beter titles for these.
This bonnet already has a new home. I happen to love how the shape came together. It has a gentle rise from the tip to the crown. The brim has the very popular spoon shape.
Like all my bonnets, this is hand sewn. It is wire through the brim & cheektabs.

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Please visit my Etsy store to see each of my bonnets as they become available.

Second Bonnet of Summer

Here is the second bonnet of this week’s sewing spree. This is the bonnet for someone who want the brim further back from their face. It is a high-brim with a gentle curve to the brim. This is a small to medium size high brim bonnet. It is entirely hand sew. The straw is a narrow whole plait of real straw with a beautiful rage of golden tones. It is wired through the brim and cheektabs.
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Please visit my Etsy Store for each of my straw bonnets (and other goodies) as they become available.

First Bonnet of the Summer

This is my first straw bonnet of the summer. Right now I’m with a fantastic narrow whole straw plait. I love the golden colors it has. I also love the sweet smell of the straw.
This bonnet has already found its new owner. It is an average size high brim spoon bonnet popular in the early 1860s. The rows of straw plait are hand sewn, with the brim and cheektabs wired.
Please visit my Etsy Store to see each of my bonnets as they become available.
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Netherfield Ball

I’ve had a few people ask for photos. So, I want to get the few I have up asap. I’ll add some text later.

As a summary – Had a lovely time. I slid all over the place. Finally got to waltz with my husband for the first time since Fort Stanton. Barb’s shawl to the rescue.

Netherfield Ball

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Around the House – Water-proof Cloth

I find these directions for water-proof cloth interesting, as well as their uses.

Transparent and Water-proof Cloth – To every quart of raw linseed oil, add half a pint of copal varnish and two ounces of sugar of lead. Mix well together and apply with a brush. This mixture applied to thin sheeting, answers a good purpose in place of glass, for hot-beds, letting in plenty of light, excluding cold and wet equally well, and protecting the young plants from the hot breath of the old shiner, which proves often time fatal to them. (The Genesee Farmer, April 1860)

 To Make Cloth Waterproof  – Take half on ounce of isinglass (Russian is best), put it into one pound of rain water, and boil until dissolved; take one ounce of alum, put it into two pounds of water, and boil till it is dissolved; take a quarter of an ounce of white soap, and one pound of rain water, and boil till it is dissolved. After each of these ingredients has been separately dissolved, strain them separately through a piece of linen; afterwards mix them well together in a pot, put it on the fire again till it simmers, then take it off, and while thus near boiling, dip a brush into it, and apply it to the wrong side of the cloth intended to be waterproof.

The cloth must be spread out on a table during the operation, and remain there until it is dry; after it is dry must be brushed on the wrong side against the grain; and then dipping the brush in clear water, pass it lightly over, and leave it again dry.

After that, the gloss caused by the application of the ingredients can be taken off.

Three days after the operation has been done, the cloth will be impervious to water but not air. (The Workwoman’s Guide)

You can also find an expanded description of water-proof cloth in Thomas Webster’s An Encyclopaedia of Domestic Economy.

Published in: on June 22, 2013 at 8:00 am  Leave a Comment  
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Around the House – Purchasing Furniture

Advice for purchasing new furniture, from The Workwoman’s Guide:

A misfortune of not very rare occurrence, is the splitting of valuable tables that are veneered. We have known the infliction, and we guard others from a similar annoyance.

One of the causes may be traced to the cabinet makers; it is not unusual for them to make use of wood for the foundation, that has not been sufficiently seasoned, and is besides of an open porous texture, so different from the close hard grained wood, which is to form the veneer, that a very long time is requisite before they can manufacture their goods without risk of shrinking.

In order to ensure this certainty of seasoning, a larger stock of wood is required than is always convenient to be on hand by a cabinet maker, either from want of capital or accommodation; hence, the purchase of new furniture requires circumspection.

In this, as well as every other requisite, we would enforce the oft repeated advice, that a preference is always given to the trader of know probity.

Chance bargains, cheap to the eye, almost always become dear and unsatisfactory in the end.

Veneered furniture which is purchased from a damp warehouse, and brought suddenly into a well aired warm room will almost infallibly fly.

Chests of drawers, particularly if they be made of coarse Honduras mahogany, scarcely fail to crack, and throw up from their edges slips of veneer, which snap off, and are swept away, leaving unsightly white gaps; these have to be replaced, and look shabby and patched.

Spanish mahogany, though much more expensive in the first purchase, is far more certain, hard, rich-coloured, and durable.

It is essential that new furniture should be insured by degrees to change temperature, in order to prevent this hazardous warping, and unequal contracting of the wood. Tables in particular, if intended to occupy a station opposite a fire, should be kept with the grain of the wood laying longways; not the ends of the grain and the joint pointing into the fire; for want of this simple precaution, we have known a beautiful rosewood table entirely spoiled.

Spanish mahogany was the beautiful wood which was first known in England, and which was said to be of so hard and close grain as to turn the edges of our workmen’s tools’ but since our possessions and commerce have been extended to the North of America, we have been stocked with vast quantities of that open grained inferior kind, that is made into almost all our household goods, and which, from it facility of working, is so cheap, that purchasers are continually deceived by unprincipled tradesmen, by the substitution of on for the other.

No person can well be deceived, however, to whom the two sorts of wood have been explained; the one (Spanish) being rich coloured, of an even texture, like satin, when polished, with not grain visible; the other plate, rough, and uneven when highly polished, shewing the coarse grain like threads; the latter too is so soft, that it is dented with the slightest touch, a pencil-case falling upon it, six inches from its surface, will leave a dent that never can be removed, unless the whole is plained over.

Published in: on June 15, 2013 at 8:00 am  Leave a Comment  
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Summer Time

As we roll into the last week of school exams, I am a bit drawn looking forward to summer. I am eagar to have sewing time, relaxing time and family time. On the flipside, I am more than a bit nervous about the teeny-tiny paychecks of summer. Money makes me crazy; not having enough for the basics makes me ill. In trying to stay optimitic and not freaked out, here is what I’m looking forward to…
– In this final week of school, I’ll finish our NB clothes & enjoy the ball.
– The following week, I’ll be fixing dear hubby’s cot, stool & chair as well as get together what he needs for his event.
– I’ll then dive into some much needed Etsy sewing. This includes a special request bonnet. (More below)
– Hopefully in early July, Derek, Heather & Bailey will visit.
– This summer has two weddings, family & friends.
– July will be the GCV event, while August will likely be a mini-even for Lily’s birthday.
– I have several projects to work on including some fair entries I have in mind.

For those who enjoy my Etsy store, I’m planning to get several goodies made & available soon. These will include:
– Straw bonnets for the 50s and 60s, plus some other eras. I have a well made straw plait that has been waiting for attention. I’m also trying to get my hands on some French plait.
– At least 2 uber-fancy sewing cases. I’ve been itching to do some fancy pieces.
– An assortment of destash once I have sewingroom cleaning time
– Some doll size millinery.  (I’d love to know which sizes you would like to see.)
– I’ll start on some winter bonnets later in the summer. (I mentally drafted another in my mind today.)

What would you think about materials kits for Fanciful Utility? I made up several for the book signing that was detoured by construction. They are just sitting in a box waiting to become sewing cases. (I’m open to other Etsy ideas/requests)

I hope everyone has a pleasant start of summer.

Published in: on June 13, 2013 at 8:25 pm  Leave a Comment