The Collar, aka “where I’m stuck”

Okay, folks…. help.
I understand the quilting the layers together part. What I don’t get is how these 4 pieces are sewn together. I figure the top two are sewn together and the bottom two are sewn together at the centers. After that, I’m just puzzled
If I had 4 of the top pieces, that would make more sense to me. But, the directions said to cut 2 and 2. (I should mention there are only little scraps left.)
Help?

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Published in: on June 13, 2013 at 5:23 am  Comments (1)  
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Among the Milliners

This humorous article is far less about milliners or millinery than it is about the follies of the ‘reporter.’ It is such a level of ridiculousness, I do hope you enjoy it. (I also have other suspicions) 

Among the Milliners.

Beau Hackett as a fashion reporter. I was fowling in the marches of Calumet when I received your note. I was preying remorselessly upon the feathered tribe generally, with a double-barreled shot gun. My ammunition was about exhausted. I had startled with a quarter bottle full of powder in my breast pocket, but tha tall was gone except a ‘snit.’ My shot pouch was almost  empty, too, but I did not care for that. A man can hunt well enough without shot if only he has plenty of powder – the kind that flies to the head.

Your message arrived in good time to be heeded. I had just got a splendid duck – by falling off a log into a stream of muddy water. I felt so much elated by my success that I was ready to quit. Only a few hours previous to that I had slain a dozen of the plumpest ducks I ever saw. Before I had time to collect them together the owner appeared upon the field of carnage, and informed me that they were his ducks, and were not wild, and had never been. The owner’s name was Drake. – You can image how I felt  when I learned that my ducks were all Drake’s. I gave them up, like a reasonable man, and charged him nothing for killing them. I can be generous whenever I want to.

After so many repeated successes it is not strange that I felt ready to leave the field. I read the cabalistic line of your message, ‘come up and do the openings.’ I wanted to come bad enough, but I had no idea what the missive meant. There were so many openings in the world, so many things that can be opened. There are letters, for instance; letter that belong to you and letters that don’t; and there is champagne that can be opened; and so can ink bottles, so can a bank, so can oysters (can oysters). When I arrived at oysters I stopped a while, and it occurred to me that I had caught your idea. Somebody was going to open a can of oysters (the first of the season, may be), and you wanted me to report the affair. Accordingly I came to the city in great haste, my speed being accelerated by knowledge of the fact that my powder was all gone, and there is no good powder outside of Chicago I was disappointed, not disagreeably, however, when I was informed that the grand season of opening millinery and straw goods had arrived, and that I was wanted to make a tour of Lake street and make an article on the fall fashions.

I felt complimented when I was told that I was the man for the position, because I had a more intimate acquaintance with milliners, and could get information from the fair sex better than anybody else. I am susceptible of flattery, a little, and I felt complimented, but I mistrusted my ability. I have not had much experience in reporting. I wrote local items for three days on a country newspaper six years ago, and some of them are going the rounds of the press yet. I ought to have had them copyrighted for they are never credited to me. I will give one of them – the first I ever wrote – and which is reproduced in the papers every month or two. It is pretty good, and will give you an inkling of my style:

“ACCIDENT – Yesterday a team attached to a wagon rushed madly down one of our principal streets a distance of a mile or two, and were only prevented from running away by gentleman who, at the hazard of his life, seized them by the reins and stopped them. We are fearfully and wonderfully made.”

If you hear of anybody that wants to engage a man to write that sort of items all the time, I wish you would let me know it.

I commenced at the foot of Lake street to do the fashions. I went through the great union depot from one end to the other, and up stairs and down, but I could find no millinery store there. I then struck out boldly up Lake street, and came to a large house nearly opposite a large house on the opposite side of the street. I am thus precise in giving localities that the public may know where the millinery store is to be found. A reliable gentleman, to whom truth is a greater stranger that fiction, told me that the second story of the large house on the opposite side of the street was a bonnet and straw goods establishment. That was the information I was looking for, and I bounded up stairs.

‘Like a wild gazelle,”

If I may be allowed to institute a comparison. At this time I was absorbed in deep meditation, thinking how I should begin my article, and whether I should puff anybody. I was abstracted, I think, and I sailed up the stairway with my body bent forward about nineteen degrees from the perpendicular, a pencil under my arm and a reporter’s book over my right ear. I reached the head of the stairs suddenly, inasmuch as I was going very rapidly, and as a consequence of my abstractedness, or something else, I drove my head plump into a bonnet that the proprietress was showing to a customer, and tried to stammer an apology, but it was a no go.

The proprietress looked reaping machines at me. I threw my pencil down and begged pardon for smoking in her presence, thinking it was a cigar. Told her I hoped I hadn’t smashed anything, and she smiled a little and said I hadn’t. Then I felt a little better, and told her I was a reporter. Then she looked milder than ever, and said, “Oh, indeed!” and immediately afterward she became insufferably inquisitive, asked me a volley of incomprehensible questions, and stared at me all the time as though she was counting the plaits in my shirt ruffles or the links in my watch chain, or the brilliants in my breastpin, or anything else you like.

“Are you long hand or short hand?” she asked.

“Neither,” said I, “I am a new hand, and I rather dislike the business, as far as I’ve got”

The proprietress conducted me through a long hall into a large room occupied by about twenty bonnets and sixty milliners, saleswomen, etc. I did not look at the bonnets for the first half hour, but devoted myself exclusively to taking an inventory of the young ladies.

“This is a charming bonnet – golden dun – Marie Stuart front,” said the lady-in-chief.

“Yes, she is,” I replied, “but her hair is a little too red.”

I discovered my mistake when it was too late to correct it. That’s my luck.

As soon as the divine little milliners learned who I was, they gathered around me in a circle, and all were anxious to see who could say the most and best things. One was descanting upon the beauties of a chip bonnet, and another handed me a bunch of grapes to examine. I bit one of the grapes, my mouth was full of broken glass. Then I thought I would rather report a camp meeting than a millinery store; then I thought I wouldn’t, and I mustered my courage and made another note in my note-book, (grapes, not sour, but sharp.) my tongue bled fearfully, and I spoiled my best embroidered handkerchief wiping it away the blood. The circle diminished, and the crowd (perhaps I should say bevy) came closer. I began to want fresh air severely. Too many females in a close room render the atmosphere oppressive.

“This is beautiful,” said a charming creature with pearly eyes and black teeth, “this is a dear duck of a bonnet.”

“Is it a wild duck?” said I, “I’ve had enough of wild ducks, especially if they belong to a man by the name of Drake.”

“Price, seventy-five dollars,” she continued, paying about as little attention to me as a man of my qualifications could expect.

I asked her if she would sell it in small lots, and how much one of the straws would come to, but before I had finished the question she was showing me something else.

The ladies became less timid as they became more acquainted, and approached so near me when they wanted to give me a bonnet to look at, that my ruffles were in danger of being crushed. They piled bonnets upon me till I had both arms full and the tops ones began to fall off, and every time I stooped to pick up one I dropped two. It required some skillful engineering to keep from being engulphed in the ocean of crinoline that surrounded me; and in making a desperate effort to escape from one billow that came fearfully near me, I plunged both feet into a magnificent French chip bonnet (that was the name of it,) with a Marie Stuart or Louisa Jane Susan Smith front, I forget which. There was another crash of glass artificial, a bunch of wheat was crushed to flour, and a fine blush rose blushed for the last time.

The milliners all screamed – the circle was broken; some rushed one way and some another, and some rushed in an opposite direction. I rushed to a window and measured the distance to the ground with my mathematical eye. I had not made up my mind exactly when a ten-year-old whom I had not seen before (I think she was an apprentice) sung out in a shrill voice “Ma says if you don’t pay her for the last shirt she made for you she’ll prosecute you in the court-house.”

I should have been proud to know that I had an acquaintance there if I had not been in a hurry. I threw myself out upon the sidewalk without breaking a bone, and – I still live. When next I go to report a millinery affair I shall go in a full suit of armor.

I am, feelingly, Beau Hackett. (Lancaster Intelligencer.  November 10, 1863. Reprinted from the Chicago Post. http://digitalnewspapers.libraries.psu.edu)

Published in: on June 8, 2013 at 9:00 am  Leave a Comment  

Around the House – Laundry

Lets start the summer series, “Around the House”, with a little laundry.

Okay, I wasn’t going to start with laundry. But, then I found this section in Elizabeth Haskell’s The Housekeeper’s Encyclopedia on cleaning particular fabrics and items. I just knew you would all want to see it. (It is a PDF)

Here are a few more interesting snip-its:

To Polish Flat-Irons – If your flat-irons are rough, rub them well with fine salt, and it will make them smooth. (The Genesee Farmer, June 1860)

 To Wash Ribbons – Ribbons of any kind should be washed in cold soap-suds, and not rinsed. (The Genesee Farmer, June 1860)

 Old Crape – A pint of glue, dissolved in milk and water, will restore old crape. (The Genesee Farmer, June 1860)

 To Clean Silk – I have seen a good receipt for cleaning all kinds of silk, which I have used with good effect. Take equal quantities of alcohol, wood ashes, soft soap, and molasses. Mix them, and rub with a cloth on the silk; afterward rinse in a clear water with a little salt or alum. Your silk will look as good as new if it has never been washed before. (The Genesee Farmer, July 1860)

 For Cleaning Silk – (Correction from the July number.) – Take equal quantities of alcohol – whiskey will do – soft soap made of wood ashes, and molasses. Mix and rub with a cloth; afterward rinse in clear water once or twice, and dry it or wrap in cloth till ready to iron. (The Genesee Farmer, September 1860)

 Method of Cleansing Silk, Woollen, and Cotton. – Take raw potatoes in their natural state, and when well washed, let them be rubbed on a grater over a vessel of clean water, to a fine pulp; pass the liquid matter through a coarse sieve into another tub of clean water; let this mixture stand till the fine white particles of potatoe are precipitated, then pour off the liquor, which preserve for use.

The article to be cleaned should be laid on a table, and well rubbed with a sponge dipped in the liquor until clean, when it is washed several times in clean water, and then dried and ironed.

Two middle sized potatoes will suffice for a pint of water. The coarse pulp of the potatoe, which will not pass the sieve, is of use in cleaning worsted curtains, tapestry, carpets, and other coarse goods, while the liquor prepared as above, will clean silk, cotton, and woolen goods. (Workwoman’s Guide)

Published in: on June 8, 2013 at 8:00 am  Leave a Comment  
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Frock Progress

I am awful about taking project photos. Between forgetting, not liking the unfinished look and low batteries, photos rarely happen.
I was able to snap two photos of areas I like on Dan’s frockcoat:

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I like how these areas are laying. This is a leap forward from the clunkiness in the same area on my first paletot. Now, the “puckering” shows more then I would like. But…. that’s okay. Lots of pressing ahead.

Published in: on June 7, 2013 at 6:28 am  Leave a Comment  

Projects Update

I feel I should have much, much more to report. But, instead I simply have come to a conclusion – I need more time! I either need 1 additional week between now and June 21st, 1 additional day with nothing but sewing to do each week, or school to be finished one week earlier so I can sit home and sew.

That said, I do have some updates.

  • Dan’s frockcoat pattern arrived last week. It has been sized, marked and cut out. I hope to have a good two hours with it tonight. I am very tempted to flat line it as flat lining is what I know. I’m sure that is simply awful.
  • I also have his waistcoat drafted.
  • I’ll be picking up a pair of pants to look at before I cut that fabric. (I really wish I had just a bit more of the blue wool or the plaid wool rather than the heavier off white.
  • I’m mostly done with a surprise sewing project.
  • As a de-stresser, I started a silk feather fan, a Jenny Lind style. That is together and stiffened. It needs to be retrimmed next. Then the blades need to be connected. I still have to decide on embellishments.
  • I was asked if we would be at the museum during the day for the 1812 event. I would love to. This does mean I will need to make a dress for during the day. If I can pull this off, I will. Currently, that is a Big if.
  • I stalled out on a particular bonnet with being stressed over men’s clothing. I need to pick that back up.
  • I am convince little sister must learn to sew. She has yet to try on her cloths. But, she certainly will need some adjustments as well as stays. She also needs some pieces for the kitchen, meaning aprons. She will learn to sew aprons then.
  • Dan has added a bed ticking to the pre-Gettysburg list.
  • Also on the pre-Gettysburg list – Fix his cot, fix his stool & chair, find a box, reconstruct bedroll, repair drawers. This will all happen the week between school and summer school
  • Looking into summer – I have several bonnet requests. I will also need something fashion show worthy for mid-July. Then I will need something ‘watch or help sister cook’ worthy for the beginning of August. (This would be simpler if I hadn’t gained so much weight is such difficult places.)
Published in: on June 4, 2013 at 11:28 am  Leave a Comment  

Commode

I know some find it silly, but I have long wanted my own chamber pot for events. I’m just not a fan of three trips a night in the cold rain to the outhouse. So, now that I finally have just the right chamber pot, it is time for a commode.

While I’ve had fairly simple, if not quite well thought out, ideas in my head, it seems some commodes were quite complex. Take a look at this advertisement printed in 1831, in both the Edinburgh Review and the Quarterly Review out of London. I am picturing something more like illustrations 3 and 4.

1 2

Thomas Webster discussed a version figures 1 and 2 in his Domestic Encyclopedia: “Portable water-closets are useful when fixed ones cannot be had, and in case of sickness; as they may be placed in a dressing-room, or even a bedroom. If ill constructed, they are a nuisance; but we can recommend the following, patented by wiss, near Charing Cross, London. Fig. 454, a, a, [reprint of figure 2 labeled a to f] is a cistern for water, surrounding the three sides of a box which holds the pan, b; the cistern is filled by lifting up a small lid, c, and pulling the handle of an engine, by which the water is forced into the pan through the washer. This water, by its weight, opens the hinged valve at the bottom of the pan, e, placed beneath. This pail has a cover with a projection that dips into a groove containing a little water, that effectually prevents any effluvia from coming out. The pail can be removed to empty it. This apparatus may be made in a variety of forms, as a seat, an arm-chair, a commode, settee, &c. The same movable box, with the cistern and pan, may be used without a pail, and be more complete, where there is a convenience of connecting it with a pipe to go into a drain or cesspool. In this case there is a curved tube to be joined to the pipe, which, being always full of water up to the dotted line, stops any smell from ascending. [additional small illustration]

Published in: on June 3, 2013 at 5:30 am  Comments (2)  

Summer Series – “Around the House”

I’ve decided the summer series will take a look “Around the House”. To kick this off, lets start with a bit of perspective.  

This passage comes from the “Ladies’ Department” of the June 1860 Genesee Farmer, published in Rochester, New York. Do keep in mind this is the forward thinking “Burned Over District.”

Women’s Occupation – In these days of progress and improvement, not the least among the many evidences we meet with of the triumph of science over difficulties hitherto supposed insurmountable is the invention of the sewing machines. Women need no longer be a mere mechanical drudge, doomed to pass her days forever in the seclusion of home – wasting away her energies, and her life in the everlasting occupation of needle-work. The days when Tom Hood wrote his pathetic “Song of the Shirt” have passed away, and are numbered among the things that were. It may perhaps be said by some, that with the introduction of the sewing machines, women’s occupation is gone. This, perhaps may be true of  many of those who, having been educated in a former age, find that education too limited for the present time, and have no resource to fall back upon, or the ability to adapt themselves to follow new channels of life

So long as the present system of female education is followed, the effect of this loss of her occupation will be to make her still more dependent. But a revolution in the system of education must sooner or later take place, and woman must be fitted – not to be a mere ornament to the house – a gewgaw to be taken around for show, like a little dog led by a golden chain, or as a mere household slave. No! woman must be be  [sic] so educated as to become not merely the companion, but the teacher of man. Her education must be carried out on a sounder and broader basis. She must be taught so as to be fitted to become herself a teacher. She must be fitted to take care of herself, and to feel that she has a mind, and that her mind is capable of being directed into channels of thought – by which she can acquire a position of independence and exercise a greater and better influence than she at present does. She should also become more accustomed to out-door exercises, and should study physiology; and take an interest in the discoveries of science, and what is going on outside of her immediate circle. ~~Progress.

 As I’ve been thinking a good deal about cooking lately, thanks to my little sister, I expected to find a similar passage regarding the leap forward in a stove for cooking. I have not, yet. It seems, period literature is far more concerned about the heat stove than the influence the cooking stove had on the daily life of women. (Or, atleast I should say the pieces of literature I have thus found.) I did find this to share: From Eighty Years of Progress of the United States, by CL Flint (1861) I suggest reading the entire chapter beginning on p245 http://books.google.com/books?id=OiEaAAAAYAAJ

Cooking was performed over an open wood fire; a mode in many respects more laborious and less convenient than the present use of stoves and ranges; but which, if skillfully conducted, gives the food a flavor more perfect and delicate than can be attained in any other manner.

As has been implied, the changes in food have thus been more in the treatment than in the materials of it. The chief of these changes, like those in warming houses, have arisen from the introduction of anthracite coal into use, which has caused the employment of cooking-stoves and ranges, instead of the open fire. Nearly four hundred patents for cooking-stoves and ranges were issued from 1812 to 1847, and great numbers of others have been granted since; the total number of such patents may safely be estimated at not less than six hundred.

An early style of cooking-stove, and quite a favorite ne in its day, was the rotary, whose top could in its day, ws the rotary, whose top could be swiveled round by a crank and cog-wheel geared to a ratchet underneath its edge, so as to bring any underneath its edge, so as to bring any sauce pan or kettle forward to the cook. This variety is, however, now nearly obsolete, and innumerable later inventions have succeeded, each enjoying a brief reputation, usually conferred rather by diligent advertisement than by any real peculiar merits in the stove itself.

The cooking range may be described as a modified stove bricked into a fireplace, instead of standing out in the room. Its oven, instead of being [in] back of the fireplace, as in a stove, is above it; and most patterns, so far back as to render it very hot and inconvenient for use. Some late patterns, however, have brought the oven sufficiently far forward to remedy this objection.

The use of stoves and ranges has rendered cooking much more convenient, but has, in a great measure, substituted the baking of meats in the oven for the better old fashion of roasting. Their advantages, however, are greater than their disadvantages; they are far cheaper and easier in management than an open fire; and in all older portions of the country are necessary, because would could not be furnished to supply the kitchens.

 

 Just a few other pieces:

If you are interested in perspectives on the duties or position of women entering the mid-century, you may find these of interest:  Woman’s Rights and Duties    Volume 2  and Lectures on the Sphere and Duties of Women 

 Of general, useful interest, I came across this: Hand-books for Home Improvement: Comprising, How to Write, How to Talk, How to Talk, How to Behave, How to Do Business.(1857)

Published in: on June 1, 2013 at 8:00 am  Comments (1)  
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New Season, New Saturday Series

How is it June already? May simply flew by. With spring turning to summer, the Saturday morning post series will be transitioning from millinery t…… well, I am not really sure. I have yet to decide what the next topic will be.

One idea is women’s involvement in nineteenth-century at social movements. This is a very broad topic.

Another is highlighting good interpretive techniques, activities, demonstrations, etc at events. This would share other’s ideas and accomplishments as well as my own ideas.

A third would be to look at domestic details such as housekeeping advice, the general knowledge most of us would have had.

What are your thoughts? Is there anything you would like to see?

Published in: on May 30, 2013 at 4:00 pm  Comments (2)  

Making a Hat Stand

I know several people found my fabric headform post helpful. Check out this realy nice ‘how-to’ on making a wooden hat/bonnet stand.

Tea in a Teacup

Ever thought a hatbox didn’t do justice to your collection of hats? Ever wanted to display your hat-making skills to the world, or at least to your visitors? Why not try making a hatstand!

After seeing some hatstands at a friend’s house, I have been keen to make a pair to display my Regency bonnets. Having my bonnets on display means that I could spend time admiring and enjoying my handiwork as a decoration, rather than always having them packed away awaiting my next costuming event.

Hatstands, both as larger hall furniture and as smaller dressing table pieces, became popular during the Victorian era. They could be made from wood or cast iron, and could be covered with a fabric, such as velvet. They were also often weighted in the base, which increased the stability of the stand once a hat was placed on the top.

This week I have…

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Published in: on May 27, 2013 at 12:38 pm  Leave a Comment  

Fun Fifty’s Bonnet

???????????????????????????????I wrapped up a tremendously enjoyable custom bonnet today. The recipient is truly one of those fun customers that you jump to work for. Together we picked out the flowers and ribbons for this 50s bonnet. The amazing striped ribbon is a vintage piece from Italy. The flowers are a combination of vintage and current done in luscious velvet including the strawberries.

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Thank You, B, for asking me to make this bonnet for you. I hope you enjoy wearing it as much as I enjoyed making it.