2011 Workshops and Conferences….

I’ve been invited to speak at several workshops and conferences over the past months. While I would absolutely Love to, I can’t commit to any until we are relocated and have everything settled down. Since I can’t go, the very least I could do is share the 2011 workshops and conferences I am aware of.

January

 Corset making workshop at Genesee Country Village and Museum (Western NY) – January 8th and 9th. The cost is $50. For more information contact Bevin Lynn (link to come)

Mid-Western Civil War Civilian Conference – Friday, January 28, 2011 at 8:00am – Sunday, January 30, 2011 at 12:00pm. For registration and information contact Marta Vincent  or visit www.midwestcwcivilian.com.

Caps – Plain to Fancy with Marta Vincent-  January 8/9 – Hampshire, IL

February

Bonnets – With Marta Vincent  – February 25/26 – Hampshire, IL –

March

 Ladies and Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference (Harrisburg, PA) –  March 3-6

Frontier Women’s Living History Association Conference – (In Texas) Please see thier blog for more information http://frontierwomen.blogspot.com/

Ball Gown Bodice & Berthes – With Marta Vincent – March 26/27

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December


Published in: on November 30, 2010 at 9:02 pm  Leave a Comment  

Folding Chairs

June 2015 – I am receiving an increased number of requests for information on particular chairs and appraisals. While I love to see original chairs, I am not in a position to give advice on the value or restoration of chairs. I simply find patent furniture to be a fascinating research subject. 

Here is some information that will hopefully help if you are considering a folding chair….

This 1855 Patent is one of the earlier 19th century folding chair patents. It has a simple side X construction with a slight curve in the back to leg piece. The seat is solid with a cushion set in.

This chair from the New York State Museum, is circa 1866. This walnut chair was made in NYC by B.J. Harrison And Company. The museum’s descriptions is as follows “32 1/2 x 16 x 17 in.  Curved crest rail above two side rails ending in molded rear seat rail. Beneath this are two dowels fitted to another molded rail. Oriental-type rug seat (not original).” The seat folds up with a side X pivot while the back folds down. A similar chair construction can be seen in this  1863 Patent.

 This circa 1860-70 chair is Marta Vincent’s. It has been repaired and recovered from the naked state in which it was found with the finish was completely worn off and the carpet seat was in tatters. The back splint has been replaced. The seat is now a piece of ingrain wool carpet supported by canvas.

Martha’s above chair is a similar folding shape as the chair in this post war photograph

The shape of this chair’s curved pieces making the side X construction seen in many full-size chairs attributed to those who worked with Vaill. This construction can be seen in this  1870 Patent 1.

Added March 15th, 2010: A reader contacted me about a chair coming from a private collection. She has been kind enough to share this lovely child’s folding chair which looks much like the one in the photograph above. This chair has a great glowing patina. Notice the darker areas where the chair would have been picked up and carried when folded. The carpet seat is in good condition with deep reds and greens in a large, well centered design. The curves of the legs tend to suggest it was made by someone who worked with Vaill. The back piece is curved nicely while appearing quite solid.

 

img_20160819_151413.jpg

Circa 1870-90. These chairs were manufactured by Edward W. Vaill. It is a side X construction with a second pivot point on the back and a hinge on the lower back leg. The top chair has an incorrect material. The bottom chair shows a floral or scenic design done in tapestry, possibly original or a replacement. In both cases, the wood is likely walnut Notice the curves in the leg and cross support piece. Also notice the turned finials on the top. Both chairs have paper labels found on the front cross runner underneath the fabric. The construction of this chair can be seen in this 1875 Patent by Wakefield, assignor Vaill. This is a similar patent from  1876.

 This chair is Marta Vincent’s. I think it could have been made between 1863 and the 1880s. It has the original red carpet, which she has supported with canvas underneath. It appears to have a back similar to the back in the Vaill chair above. The back to front leg cross piece has a slight curve while the other leg begins to show an S curve. It appears to be a walnut. Notice the location of the splits in the seat. These weaknesses are very much at risk of further damage if not supported.

This is my chair, one Dad had for me that was found after he passed. I still have have yet to spend time really looking at this chair. It is an early Eastlake style from the last quarter of the century.  The seat material is likely original.

 This rocker folding chair is Marta Vincent’s. When Marta found it, it was in pieced needing to be put back together. The seat and back are a vintage ingrain wool carpet with the sear supported by canvas and the outside back is covered  in brown cotton sateen similar to the method of the original covering on the red one.

 This chair is as it was found. Though nicely intact, the seat and back may not be original. The turning and finials on this chair are quite different then the other chairs seen here. The closest patent I’ve found for dating is this 1881 Patent with a far more complex construction.

 

This Chair is held by the Brooklyn Museum. It is attributed to P. J. Hardy as the maker while Hunzinger was likely the designer based on the style and the metal tag Hunzinger label. The Museum’s description is “Folding chair. Ebonized wood with gilt incised decoration, metal hardware, and original upholstery. Turned gilt incised members that terminate in small ball pads intersect at mid-point on sides, secured by small metal rods on which they pivot and allow folding action. Identical turned and gilt incised stretchers connect lower front and back legs. Dark red plush upholstery with central vertical machined floral tapestry panel. Multi-colored fringe to front and sides of seat secured with domed metal tacks. Slung narrow woven textile strips with red key pattern on white ground form arms attached to front and rear stiles with metal attachments; the attachment on back stile has pressed head of putti. Movable black metal members hinged to underside of seat at sides and attached to upper front legs below seat to secure chair when open for seating. CONDITION – Original upholstery faded and distressed, but intact.” For more on Hunzinger’s furniture, please visit this Hunzinger blog.

 Late 19th century folding chair with an Eastlake feel.

Post-CW Catalog of Folding Chairs.

A pre-Civil War English patent chair:

This is one chair I would have dated to later in the 19th century if I came across it in person. This illustration and description comes from 1824 though, in the Transactions of the Society, Instituted at London, for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce volume 43.1824 folding chair My previous research indicated folding chairs did not appear notably in the US prior to 1850. This illustration, 26 years earlier, is from London.

Folding Chair

The Silver Vulcan Medal was this session presented to Mr. J.P. Hubbard, Leadenhall-street, for a Folding Chair. A specimen which has been placed in the Society’s repository.

In camp, on board ship, and in other situations in which stowage room is very limited, demads are continually making on the ingenuity of the cabinet-maker, to compress into as small a space as possible all articles of domestic furniture when not actually in use. The common camp-stool, either with or without a back, thus forms the substitute for a chair; but the webbing does not make a very firm or convenient seat, and this circumstance induced Mr. Hubbard (who is not a cabinet-maker) to add to it a folding wooden seat, with a spring catch. The result is, a light chair of a very firm and simple construction, which may be afforded at a small cost, and when not in use may be hung upon a peg, or may be stowed away in any other manner, occupying not more than one third the space required for a chair of common construction.

Plate VII, fig 13, shows the chair when open or ready for use. It consists, like the camp-stool with a back, of two frames crossing each other, and united by the screw-pins u u; v is the wooden seat, having two hinges v v in front, and a hole x at the back to receive the spring catch y in the back rail, as shown fig. 14; beneath the seat are two pieces of webbing w w to limit the expansion of the two frames, and thereby to cause the spring catch to fall into its hole without any trouble: fig. 15 is a side view of the chair when folded.

Frequently Asked About Chairs:

not-correct

Folding Rockers like this one seem to be every where… good reason…. They were reproduced for stores like World Market and Pier One in the 80s. They are Not a reproduction of a mid-century chair. They are a reproduction of an early 20th century chair.

They are Not Collingnon Brothers chairs. Please cautiously read the Collingnon chair site. I find some pieces are unclear. I recommend looking at this set of search results for their patents, including the 1868 patent which if for a folding chair, not a rocker.

 

 

 

 21st century chair manufactured for camping, modern camping. Not a style produced during the Civil War.

Published in: on November 12, 2010 at 6:41 pm  Comments (49)  

Masquerade Dress

Now that the Masquerade has past, I can share photos of the dress I was working on. I don’t have any “in-process” photos though. I’m horrible about that. Here is the dress:

And here is my husband and I:

The fabric is one I’ve had for at least a few years. We’ve been calling it my sunset plaid. It is a taffeta weave with thicker threads and moderately tight weave. It is a bit more red then it seems to appear in the photos.

The bodice is just a basic basque bodice with the  basque cut as part of the bodice rather than as an added piece. I generally like this approach. The challenge is getting the lower part of the darts right. I’ve decided to shorten the darts to get a better front flair. I think the front is too flat. I am also going to change the outside dart because that has some pulling. The neckline is actually a jewel neckline just turned down into the V neckline. I couldn’t make up my mind. So, I did it that way. The back is a two piece back. I tried to line up the plaid horizontally. I think I did fairly well given how the pieces curve. The pepulum is shaped with two box pleats underneath the pleating. The trim was actually an after-thought when I had some left.

 

The sleeves started as a funnel sleeve even though you can’t really tell with the tiers. The base is just muslin. Under the top tier there is some extra tucked out so I can change the sleeve to have the bottom two tiers detachable. For the silk, I took the base pattern & cut it into 3 pieces adding an extra inch to the top of the bottom two for overlap. Each silk piece is cut on the bias. An important thing to know if you want to do this – While three pieces will fit on the straight grain, all three pieces will Not fit in one row on the bias of 60″ fabric. It is most economical to cut each piece open separately where they fit. The undersleeves are a temporary make-do from a semi-sheer fabric I had. They are just tacked inside.

The trim is bias strips pleated with the top edge turned down. There is approx. 10 yards of finished trim for the bodice – two rows around the basque and one row on the sleeves. The 30ish yards of bias came from about 1 yard of fabric.

One last note – Yes, there is a balance thing going on with the skirt. I made the skirt first. Then I didn’t try it on until the night of the event. Oooos. It was a good 4+ inches to big. I did a couple quick tucks in the back to get it to stay up. But, there was still some sagging in the front. So, the horizontal lines dip in the front. I’ll be fixing that.

Published in: on October 18, 2010 at 8:17 pm  Comments (1)  

Fall

I’ve been horrible on keeping up with posts, and, well, so many other things. I did send off an article to Connie for the Gazette. It is a military version of the “Connecting with your Audience” article. So, if you get that magazine, please take a look. I do have this list of articles I want to find time to put together for the Companion and for the blog. One in particular I thought might be of interest for the magazine is about the bag obsession I’ve had of late. Okay, not really about the obsession, about the bags themselves.

It is fall…. ahhhhhh. Normally this time of year I am thinking about quilted and wool petticoats, wristlets and wool stockings, wadded hoods and cozy coats. Not so much this year. Instead I am finishing up the dress for the masquerade ball here in town. It is a 50s basque combination done in the sunset silk I’ve had laying around. After the party you will be able to see photos. I may squeeze in another workshop locally this winter. I now have 25 sewing cases and needlebooks done plus the scissors cases and pincushions. Writing to follow. Other than that most of my sewing is for modern clothes including a coat which will eventually make it up on my updates blog.

Published in: on October 6, 2010 at 2:57 pm  Leave a Comment  

Projects list….

Some how I’ve developed a project list once again…..

  • Ongoing sewing cases
  • Yoked bodice dress – I don’t have one, therefore I have to have one
  • 19th Century coat – Because I miss mine
  • 21st Century coat – May just be the same one as above (I want a 19th c. one in a different color but for cost effectiveness this may be an all purpost black coat.
  • Dan’s British Rifleman’s Uniform
  • Dan’s muslin shirt
  • Dan’s white shirt
  • Dan’s civilian pants (may purchase those.)
  • Dan’s tbd civilian coat
  • Dan’s tbd civilian vest
  • Medium size leather bag
  • Tiny white silk Regency era bag
  • Regency corset, bodiced petticoat and dress
  • Sunbonnet tbd (since all headwear is in NY)
  • Some ribbony stuff possibly to sell (hairnets and neckbows.)
  • Because I saw the coolest padded bustle made out of a paisley fabric yesterday, I may have to breakdown and make an 1870s or 80s outfit.
  • Then there is at least one surprise project I can’t list online
Published in: on August 22, 2010 at 12:16 pm  Leave a Comment  

A post on another blog about the straw cottage industry

http://nemasket.blogspot.com/2010/05/industrious-middleborough-1860.html

Published in: on August 18, 2010 at 8:23 am  Leave a Comment  

Bag Pattern

Here is the pattern/illustration for the bag below inspired two at the MET.

Silk Leather (p1MET bag (p2)

Published in: on August 16, 2010 at 3:06 pm  Comments (2)  

Bags

Since my previous post about wanting a new bag, I’ve decided it would be silly to make what I already have. It is much more fun to make something new.

This first bag is inspired by two bags at the MET. Bag 1 and Bag 2. The originals appear to have the leather center bound. Then the silk whipped to the binding. I opted to work off of a base lining because I think that would make a stronger bag. First I made two muslin circles with one side chopped off. These were sewn together with the straight side turned down to the outside. On the outside I traced the shape of the center piece on both sides. Next I gathered strips of the dark chocolate taffetta I already had cut. Since these were already cut 2.5″ wide, I sewed two together to make them wider. They needed to be wide enough to to cover easily the widest part. (In hindsight, it may have been easier to sew the silk strips together at the end.) I gathered the outer edge of the silk.

If I was going to whip the silk to the binding, I would have turned then end over and gauged like I would a skirt. The gathered silk was basted to the lining along the traced line. I turn the ends to cover the edge of the muslin on each side. (I thought about either using a draw string or elastic to hold the ends closed. I have not done that yet, waiting to see how it works with the open pieces.) I bound the edge of the leather with bias strips of the silk. Since I couldn’t find my needle for the leather, I used the maching. I don’ t like how that looks right now. I may cover that seam with beads. The bound leather was then stitched down over the gathered silk. I ran the needle through just the edge of the silk binding. The straps are on grain cut strips of silk over strips of muslin, folded in so each strap is 4 layers each of cotton and silk. These are whip stitched. The button is a cloth button with the silk gathered over muslin scraps. The button loop is a narrow flat strip of folded over silk. Rolling it would have been better.

 

The next bag I am looking at making is similar to this 1870s bag found in the NYPL digital archives.

The illustration calls for embroidered enameled cloth, but I have this beautiful piece of blue leather Dan picked up.

The math for the piece will make a bag 12″ wide, 10″ tall and 5″ deep. I think this should make a decent size bag for carrying items through the day when we don’t have a home-base as we are accustom. I haven’t completely decided on the straps. These small straps are nice for the bag above which will carry light stuff. But, I am not sure for a bag that might carry heavier stuff. I’m worried a shoulder strap will look to much like a modern day purse. I want this to be more like a travel bag. So, maybe wider straps.

Published in: on August 12, 2010 at 8:20 am  Leave a Comment  

Bodice Workshop

I have the wonderful oppertunity to do a bodice draping for the local ladies. Now, when I say local, I actually mean from three different states. It was nice to get to meet some of the local reenacting ladies, each of whom were delightful. (I also got to meet several wonderful kitties.) Ann Dixon writes the Frontier Women’s Living History Assoc. blog. She posted some very kind words.

Published in: on August 11, 2010 at 12:31 am  Leave a Comment  

Fort Stanton Event

This past Saturday, Dan and I got dressed and attended an event at Fort Stanton here in NM. I should say we Finally got dressed and attended an event. More importantly, we finally got to dance together as husband and wife.

The event was much smaller then we are accustom to in NY. The site is a large fort begun in the 1850s and working through WWII I think. The buildings cover a very wide range of time. Most of them are arranged around a center courtyard. I like this arrangement. It allowed for a good presentation area, instructional/interpretive spaces in and infront of the buildings and a side yard for the modern food venders. The walk ways were a huge plus as well since it rained on and off most of the time we were there.

After the social, we talked with one of the local reenactors about educational oppertunities. The fort really is an ideal space for a full weekend of instructional workshops and presentations. It looks like we will be doing some of that while we are here.

I fretted all week about what I did and didn’t have with me for the event. I am usually an obsessive planner for events with a packing and a to-do list each made weeks in advance. Most everything is out and sorted, ready to be packed the weekend before. That certianly didn’t happen this time. I didn’t even try on my dress until Thursday evening. This resulted in a panic run to the W store I hate to buy fabric I couldn’t believe I was buying. Then I started sewing. It is a good thing I ended up making a cotton dress as the rain and dirt would have made a mess of primarily white plaid silk.

When Dan and I were driving, we stopped and he picked me flowers. Isn’t he sweet?

Published in: on August 10, 2010 at 2:49 pm  Comments (1)