2017

It is that time of year. Time to reflect on the year past and look forward to the year ahead. Well, 2017 was quite a year. I could call this post simply “A Year in Review” or “Personal Reflections on 2017”, or something more accurately: “The Good, the Great, and the Ugly” or even “The Stone that Tried to Kill Me.”

It really was that kind of year, wasn’t it.

Here we go…..

The Good

img_20170215_175129.jpgThe world of millinery went rather well this year. By the time the snow fell again, I made 57 straw millinery pieces this year. I lost track of the winter hoods. I also added a line of evening headdresses, focusing on simple, classic looks of the mid-nineteenth century.

_20170718_150253Thanks to some wonderful people, a trio of original bonnet blocks arrived early in the summer. I’ve only been able to really work on one, Serenity, which I Love. (It was a mobility thing.) I look forward to working with the other two. I also had a beautiful custom block made for Regency era pieces. I still need to start the adventures with this block. Accompanying the trio of blocks, was a beautiful hand dyed length of straw awaiting being sewn up. (I’ve come to notice I do this thing where I save things I really, really want to do for the end or when I’m feeling particularly good. I need to fix that because this comes too close to the dessert or favorite food thing. You know, where you save your favorite part of a meal for the end so you can enjoy it, but then you end up too full to truly enjoy it.)

Shop at GCVM CW 2017 bI did make it to a couple events. I am aware that I made it out to the Independence Day celebration in modern clothes. Though, I don’t remember much at all. I did make it to the GCVM Civil War event in July. IMG_0333I set up my Millinery Shop and managed to pull off period clothes that didn’t hurt. I had two excellent helpers. Thank you Elyse and Elizabeth.  It wasn’t until packing up time that I did damage to myself. I also made it to Preparing for the Holidays, where I got to spend an exceptional day working with a great craftswoman.

The Great –

It is all a bit of a blur right now, but 2017 was pretty awesome for workshops.

In June, I had the pleasure of offering my Millinery in Miniature workshop for the national ALHFAM conference co-hosted by the Genesee Country Village. This was an incredible opportunity. It was great to get to attend parts of the conference as well. (see below)

_20171110_195408In November, I offered two very different workshops at the Museum’s Domestic Skills Symposium. On Friday, I offered Tools and Trims, a completely different, kinda crazy workshop looking at how to mimic the trims of the later 18th and 19th centuries. I spent much of the year acquiring pinking machines and dies for this workshop. On Sunday, I offered a favorite with a twist: A Pin Cushion Sampler. This year the sampler included Victorian favorites: a strawberry, a walnut, a seashell and and acorn.

 

The Ugly

bd1Ah, the ugly. That which dictated much of my 2017. I mentioned in my 2016 personal reflection that I started feeling ill around the time I was releasing my second winter hood pattern, November Thanksgiving-ish. As it turns out, that is when my gallbladder started spitting out stones causing all sorts of ruckus. I just had no idea. I figured I was eating something wrong, then had pulled a back muscle. Now I know I carry pain differently and have some stress coping mechanisms. It has made for an interesting, dysfunctional, challenging, eye-opening year.  Now, 3 ER/Urgent care visits and 4 surgeries later, hopefully we are wrapping up the gall stone drama.  (Please meet the 12mm stone that finally did me in to the right.)

2017 Goals

With 2017 playing out the way it did, many of my personal and millinery goals kinda just didn’t happen. I did not exceed my 2016 sales. I did not sell 100 publications. I did not explore straw techniques to the extent I wanted. I did not explore straw dying in the back yard. I did not set aside a monthly amount for a new house. I did not finish either of my personal fiber goals. I did not make it to Farmer’s Museum nor Rose Hill this year.

_20170820_131516On the other hand…. I did do pretty decent for someone who totally got her butt kicked by a 12mm stone. I actually feel pretty darn good about that. Despite utter exhaustion on many days and this weird pain in my side, I made some pretty great pieces this year, I kept the shop up, and learned a few things.

2018 Goals and Plans

In many ways, the goals of 2017 are a do-over. I do have three over-arching goals for 2018:

  • Focus, Streamline, and Simplify – This goes for my millinery, FanU pieces, and the Etsy shop. I was considering adding shop sections for vintage pieces. Nope. That just doesn’t do it for me.
  • Make time for the Joy. Some time around mid-November it hit me that I just wasn’t enjoying what I was making. Part of it may have been burn-out, part just the year. But, I became very aware that I need to take more time to do some projects that are just for the fun of it.
  • Sink my teeth into something. What this is going to play out to be… we shall see.

Don’t worry, there are some more specific things that are on the list for 2018:

  • I have a couple books to finish. Wintering Warmly has, um, ballooned or, um, something like that. There are some spacial, technical things I need to work out to get that on ‘paper’. To Net or Not to Net: Revisited is much closer to being available. I need to just lock myself away for a few days to get some solid writing and layout completed.
  • _20171128_060900If you haven’t noticed, I have started a monthly project post that I hope to continue through the next year. Each one will be something small with some guidance or direction on how to do it your self. They won’t quite be a thorough as the Sew Alongs.
  • Another blog goal is to write a Monthly Update. This was inspired by a favorite blogger I follow, Victoria Elizabeth Barnes. Her blog meanders beautifully between stunning antique finds and adorable foster kitties. I enjoy the way any one of her posts can have a little of both, as well as what is happening in her life, projects she is working on, what she is reading and such. My monthly update posts may fall just about anywhere in the month.

 

Published in: on December 29, 2017 at 2:00 am  Comments (2)  

Hexagons, Now and Then.

Last weekend, I sat with a local crafter at Chestnut Bay, the quilt shop with the great reproduction room within dangerously close distance, making the cutest paper pieced wreath ornament. A cute, modern project that I wasn’t going to mention on either of my blogs because it is her project. Well, I am going back on my decision because I saw this listing on Ebay:

A velvet pin cushion in nearly the same shape as the wreath, just with a center piece.

(Apparently, I just missed it, it having ended on Monday. I hadn’t been looking at Ebay because ’tis-the-season-of-not-shopping-for-myself. Then, Pinterest decided I needed to see it anyway.)

Well, let’s see…. we have tiny pieces, velvet, little stitches, and cute bead-work.

Of course, I am going to have to make this thing.

My version uses a silk/rayon blend pair of silks in forest green and russet brown. I really like how the velvet looks around the paper base. It does get pretty bulky on the back though. Mine came out larger, 2 1/2″, using the same hexagons as the wreath. I made two changes: The center is wool and packed fuller with batting rather than a fabric over a paper base. This way the center could be a pin cushion as well. I am so-so on how much I like that. I set the beads in trios rather than fives because i am a bit tight on beads. 

Published in: on December 8, 2017 at 8:56 pm  Leave a Comment  

Coming Up

33 degrees!

That is how cold it was this morning on the drive in to work. Brrr!!!! By the way… the car currently has no heat. Did I mention Brrrr!!!!

It is most definitely full on fall here in New York.

With the past few crazy months, I am really looking forward to some happenings coming up.

I have two workshops coming up during the Genesee Country Village & Museum’s Domestic Skills Symposium, November 10th, 11th, and 12th. If you haven’t already, I highly recommend registering for this symposium.

IMG_20170818_153458I’ve been cutting the materials for my new Exploring the Work-box: Tools and Trims. This is the workshop held on Friday. Next, I have to make sure I have all the samples organized and pretty. Attendees will be making their own sample book filled with trim samples made with the antique pinking tools I am bringing.  I hope this will be the first in a series of “Explore the Work-box” workshops. Btw, I think I will be naming the pinking machines.

_20171002_181826The materials for the Sunday’s Pin Cushion Sampler are almost ready. Well, they have to all be put in one box to make their way to the village. We will be making popular pin cushions of the nineteenth century – strawberries, seashells, walnuts, and acorns.

fb_img_1479602076155.jpgThe weekend following is GCV’s Preparing for the Holiday’s event. This is a great opportunity to see the historic village in the fall as it will be packed full of interpreters planning for the coming holidays and getting ready for winter. Last year, I made strawberry pin cushions by candlelight with a fellow interpreter. The visitors were wonderful, with the best questions. I have yet to decide if I will be making strawberries or walnuts this year.

After that…. I will be working on smaller gift items for the holiday season. I will also be making more winter hoods. I hope to have more writing time because I have two publications I am working on. I am anxious to get To Net or Not to Net: Revisited and Warmth for Winter (Wintering Warmly?) written and available to all of you. If you missed the information on these:

  • To Net, or Not to Net: Revisited. A deeper look at the hairnet, how they wore it, and how to capture the correct look. This booklet expands on the article I wrote about hairnets a decade ago. This updated and expanded research will include extensive photographs and a new details.
  • Warmth for Winter: Sewn Domestically Winter Hoods and Bonnets. A detailed analysis of construction methods spanning fifty years of quilted and wadded bonnets. This e-book will be photo heavy with close-ups of original hoods and bonnets in my collection. (This title keeps changing between Warmth for Winter and Wintering Warmly.)

Lunch? Yes, I still want to do the off-season local history lunches. I’ve fallen behind on planning those, as with so many other thing.

This Season’s Winter Millinery 

The winter hoods I am making this fall to winter season are based on original garments in my collection. 

For those in an area with windy, blustery winters, this first hood is a great option. The original comes forward of the face with long lappet like cheektabs. It was made with a dark green wool exterior and bright pink inside. I will be offering this hood in both wool as the original and in silk as many similar originals are made, including another with the same shape and color combination. This hood is also available adps a pattern in my Etsy shop.

This next hood is a sweet hood formerly in Vivian Murphy’s collection. I am quite lucky to be able to care for several hoods previously in her collection. This sweet hood has a light green wool exterior and gold silk interior. The shapes used to make it are beautiful. This hood also can fold forward to protect the face from the elements. I will be offering this hood in wool and in silk with various trims in period techniques.

Functional and popular is this, a warmer, thicker batted bonnet style. This brim is shallower and oh-so soft to wear. The quilted bavolet protects the neck from the cold and snow. I will be primarily offering this style in silk with local wool batting inside. 


Dont worry, I haven’t forgotten the well loved wadded, or pumpkin bonnet. This thickly wadded silk bonnet is filled with wool. It is so and warm, protecting the wearer from the coldest of winters. I will be offering a few of these this winter in silk. 

Please visit my Etsy shop to see what is available. I expect to offer a bonnet every other week or so. I have some beautiful silks to work with and some really lovely wools. 

The Millinery, at GCVM

This was a long, let’s pretend elegantly beautiful, post about this past weekend. Really, there were two exceptional passages reflecting on the year and the people at the event. Then, my laptop went black and silent. I need, really need, to replace the battery.

This past weekend, I escaped the challenges of this year filled with ughs, pains, and headaches, by fully surrounding myself with nineteenth millinery and wonderful people. I had two lovely assistants, Elyse and Elizabeth, who were there just in case, but also provided excellent conversation and companionship.

Shop at GCVM CW 2017 b

IMG_0371A few of the millinery pieces found new homes. This coarse straw bonnet, meant for a laboring working class impression, was one I thought would be a long term display piece. Katie came in to say hi and the bonnet somehow ended up on her head. It was absolutely perfect for her and her impression.

I have hardly any photos of people. I have a bunch of photos of the millinery pieces. But, you see those all the time. So, I won’t share those other than to say these two just went up in the Etsy shop:

I did try to take some photos of myself Saturday morning before anyone arrived. Here are the not horribly blurry or excessively stern looking shots.

Published in: on July 17, 2017 at 3:13 pm  Comments (2)  

Welcome to my Christmas Holiday Shop

This year, I created a special Christmas Holiday Shop for your gift giving browsing pleasure. I will fill this section of my Etsy shop though0ut the next few weeks. I will leave it open through Twelfth Night. *Note – Millinery will still be found in the Millinery sections.

Some of what you can find:

Sea Shell Pin Cushions & Emeries

Sea shells and sea shell shapes were quite popular during almost the whole span of the Victorian era. Girls’ amusement books gave directions for shell pin cushions, needle-books and boxes. Original sea shell pin cushions and emeries were made out of a variety of shells.

Strawberry Emeries

Tasty and practical, strawberry emery cushions were a popular addition to the nineteenth century sewing box. I am offering both velvet and wool strawberries filled with emery to keep your needles sharp. Some are capped with wool leaves while others have metal leaves.


Paisley Pin Balls

You know I love pin balls as well as Paisley. This series of pin balls are made with Paisley wool remnants and stuffed with local hand combed wool. (Pictures and listings coming.)

Published in: on November 9, 2016 at 7:45 pm  Leave a Comment  

A Weekend in the Millinery 

If I was to give this event one word, it would be “relief”.

 This time last year I was in horrible pain, with the worst sun reaction and migraine i can recall, to the point where I was literally hitting my head against the wall and packing my head in ice packs. I was quite certain I might have to be done with historical events. The thought was horribly depressing. I spent the whole year with the fear that I might have a repeat physical event. 

As I stood at the mirror this morning, doing my hair, I almost cried. It was Sunday. I was good. I ended Saturday feeling great. I was good. I didnt even need to resort to my backup , can lace lighter dress. (Actually, I found I laced closed! Alterations coming.) I hoped into the sewing room and pulled out one of my favorite dresses, from a fabric a far away friend gave me. I was good. 

So, here I am. Proof I made it to Sunday. 

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 This weekend, I set the millinery up in the Insurance Office. A big thank you to Deanna and Melanie for arranging this space for me. It was close to Ward Hovey, just in case, and a shorter walk to the gallery for my talk. It has  a lovely breeze and nice shade. It also is right on the village square insuring lots of visitors. Saturday, I pretty much started talking at eleven and didn’t stop until six. (The morning was quite)

My little sister, Lily, helped out in the millinery the whole weekend. She talked with visitors while I was away at the gallery and while I was consulting on millinery questions. She did a very nice job. She also followed the small ice cream handed child around the room guarding the pieces. 

 

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 A myriad of thoughts:

Our most unique visitors were either the well loved plush bunny or the real live rooster. 

All guests during the battle must be watered. Roosters included. 

While I wasn’t sure which project to bring, I ended up being busy wirh sewing the whole of Saturday and I to Sunday . 

I actually got to talk about the dynamics of women’s employment. 

Sunday, two young men had an excellent vignette on my porch. They were gambling, for stamps. As they played, they pulled visitors in. I know some expected me to shoo them off. But, it was such and excellent interaction , I just listened from inside. 

I never once got to do the story I developed behind my unfinished sign. But, I did determine i must have one. 

I got quarantined for a couple hours. Weirdness was theme

I got to see the most amazing original fichu and a lovely net needlework. 

I was gifted some wonderful surprises. I am grateful and blessed by each. Thank you. 

Now, sleep. There may be more added tomorrow 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Milliner Shop

In a short hour or so, the Milliner Shop was set up, all ready for the Genesee Country Village’s Civil War event. A big thank you to Anneliese and Lily for their assistance. 

Let’s start with a fun “What’s wrong with this picture?”

In all the preparation for transforming an Insurance Office into a Millinery – bonnet stands , band boxes, appropriate paint, appropriate papers, ribbons, bonnets, hats, veils – somehow I did not think about sitting down …. in a cage… in these three lovely, matching chairs. 

Ooops. Slight problem, especially since each of my chairs were home awaiting their much needed tlc. 

Luckily, I got the okay to borrow two chairs from Hosmer’s . 

Much better.

This even gave us a chance to color check the paint colors. The hat stands are a shade lighter than the chair. Peter tells me Prussian blue had a range of shades, depending on how much white was added. So, mine just has more white. 

Looking around the room:

Here are the three fashionable bonnets on display. Each is one one of the new stands. The one one the left is the batwing soft crown with the blue and plaid silk. The one on the right is my personal bonnet, a soft crown with sheer check organza. Below is a bonnet with a decorative brim using antique straw threads. In the basket below are my slippers and a box of fabric scraps that would make some cute doll clothes or such. I plan not to bring that box back home. 

To the right, is a stack of my recovered band boxes, and my personal bonnet box. This one came from a local stationary shop. It is perfect for holding my bonnet. Atop the boxes is one of my yardsale find stands holding a wide brim hat. This hat is appropriate for a recreational scenario or a dress reform impression. Draped on the hat is an antique lace that may or may not be considered a veil. (Digging deeper into this.) 

In the corner, is a little table filled with assorted bonnets and hats. As we were setting up, I started to think I should have brought my second table and more stands. The top most, on the boxes is a cottage bonnet draped in my newest veil, one I made with silk net and lace. (Coming soon, I will have a post comparing the light control of different veils.) In the center is a coarse straw bonnet that would be worn by a poorer or institutionalized woman. On the left is my example of a woven straw bonnet, by Vivian ! Murphy. The two hats on the stands are children size. The one resting on the table is a large crown fashion bonnet. The top box is the one I made, sewing a heavy pasteboard. The other two are recovered. 

I am tickled that the ribbons filled this mantle. I think it looks pretty”in use” rather than just display. Lily did a nice job. Can you tell which rolls are real and which are fake? 

I forgot to get a photo of the sign. As the lettering was a fail, and despite sanding off the black paint, the tracing depressions show through the new ground coats, it looks very much like the “work in progress” it is. I’ve decided to say the young man who was painting it for me took off to enlist as the trips came near. But, as we expect this fighting to be over by the end of the summer, he can finish it soon enough. 

Today’s Millinery – Fancy Edge Hat

Today, I offer a millinery piece I have looked forward to making and I am having a hard time letting go of. It will be available in my Etsy shop as soon as I pick the price and hit the button.

IMG_9027This hat is trimmed in a fancy vintage plait. I have all of the plait that was offered, but there wasn’t much of it. It combined a scroll of twisted straw threads and arrangements of flat straw.

This stylish fashion hat is made with a beautiful natural straw with speckling in the plait and a vintage fancy straw edge.

The crown is flat on the top. It is sized to fit an average size head. The brim is fashionably shaped, dipping in the front and back.

**Full disclosure – The fancy straw plait is backed with a faux horsehair that did not exist in the 19th century. I have stiffened the fancy plait to hold the shape of the hat. I highly suggest not wearing it in the rain or holding the hat by the edge.**

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Published in: on March 15, 2016 at 5:20 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Paisley, Plaid, and Purled: Shawls of the Mid-Nineteenth Century

PPandP book coverNow Available!!!

Exclusively as an Ebook in my Etsy Shop!!!

At long last, I offer you Paisley, Plaid, and Purled: Mid-Nineteenth Century Shawls. I am very excited to finally share my extensive research on mid-century shawls began over a decade ago.

PP&P is 120+ pages long looking at each of the shawls worn during the mid-nineteenth century, including the Civil War era. Learn about the types of shawls, where they came from and how they were worn along with much, much more.

PP&P includes over two dozen CDVs displaying period shawls, photos and illustrations. It also includes over 30 original directions for shawls including sewn and knit shawls.

Contents:
1. Introduction & Methodology
2. Shawl Culture
3. The Shawls
4. Domestically Made Shawls
5. Shawls for Living History
Bibliography & End Notes
Appendix Including a Glossary of Terms, Manufacturing, Production, and Tariff Statistics, and Exhibition Examples.

Published in: on January 1, 2016 at 1:00 am  Comments (5)  
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