1850s French Straw with Clouded Stripe Ribbon

This is the bonnet that made me squeel this morning as the new owner put it on. It fit her so beautifully, I really did squeel.
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I enjoyed making this bonnet so much. I love the 1850s to begin with. When I came across this ribbon, it just had to be her’s. While it is grey and white, it is also a bluey-purple. It was wonderful to work with. The bias bavolet plays with the clouded stripes wonderfully.
I am so glad we picked these blue and white flowers because they work beautifully with her complextion. They frame her face just right.
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This bonnet is made with the French straw plait I enjoy working with. I opted to line this straw bonnet because I know it will be work frequently. (While most original straws show they were not lined, lining can protect the straw.) The frill is silk organza. She has both silk functional ties and the fabulous ribbons.
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Published in: on June 1, 2014 at 5:08 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Just the Right Blues

It looks like many of you enjoyed the Green Velvet Straw Hat I shared on Tuesday. Thank you. (Be sure not to miss “Violets in Early Spring” a sheer organza bonnet)

Here is another hat I finished just prior to that one. This one is all about the right blues and right greys. To find just the right blue and grey, I requested a swatch of every blue and grey silk my fabulous ribbon supplier had. I know it is hard to see, but the tails of this hat show the blue and grey we picked.

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For the ribbon on the brim, I looked to several original straw hats for inspiration and technique. This one in particular, I like. The Vs in the front and back help allow the green velvet ribbon to lay flat. One of the keys is a narrow ribbon. Since we were only able to get the blue and grey colors in slightly wider ribbons, I needed to fold the ribbon to get the right width. I rather like the softness a folded ribbon give.

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2014-03-29 17.48.12-1The flowers are all velvet. I just love the texture of velvet against straw.

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A Perfect Green & a Perfect Fit

I was beyond excited when the photos of the new owner of this hat came through just moments ago. Between the perfect fit or the perfectly happy smile on her face, I am estatic.

This shape hat just called for a scallop edge. The dip and curve of the brim are highlighted with the scallops.

The client had the incredible satin back velvet ribbon and the beautiful berries. It was amazing how well the two went together, playing with each other and bringing out the gold of the straw. The ribbon feels awesome too. (Check out my post from last week, “why green”, for more information on green.)
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I just loved making this hat. I am so glad the new owner enjoys it.

Published in: on May 27, 2014 at 4:10 pm  Comments (2)  
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Violets in Early Spring

This bonnet is one I have slowly been working on for a while. It really does remind me of those tiny violets that peek up in the early spring. Sometimes they are a speckle of color in the grass; sometimes a speckle in the lingering spring snow. (Btw – I’m amazed by the abundance of white violets in our yard. So, I was glad I had white violets to mimic that too.)
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This bonnet is a white and ivory organza silk organza woven in a windowpane check design, drawn on cane over light weight buckram. The brim also has some fluffy flounces.
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The lilac purple silk ribbon comes from Italy. It is a beautiful ribbon both in looks and feel. The edge is particularly lovely. (I need a photo of that edge.)
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You can find this bonnet on Etsy this morning with sideways photos. (Phone issues.)
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I have a few other millinery pieces I am anxious to share with all of you. As soon as their new owners have them in hand, I can share.

Published in: on May 25, 2014 at 9:57 am  Comments (1)  
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Why Green?

This week I had the pleasure, rather joy, of truly seeing why green was used as often as it was with straw. I was applying this vintage satin back velvet ribbon in an olivey-green shade to a straw hat that is being mailed today. (I’ll share those photos once the recipient receives it.) As I stitched, I was caught by how the green brought out the golden richness of the straw. The hat was pretty before. But, the green ribbon made it almost glow.

After seeing numerous green ribbons on straw bonnets over the years, I finally saw what they saw. I saw how the green worked with the natural straw. It just works and work really well.

What does the original cast say of green for millinery?

For fair-haired women “A green bonnet is advantageous to fair or rosy complexions. It may be trimmed with white flowers, but preferably with rose. A rose-colored bonnet must not be too close to the skin; and if it is found that the hair does not produce sufficient separation, the distance from the rose-color may be increased by means of white, or green, which is preferable. A wreath of white flowers in the midst of their leaves, has a good effect.” (“Color and Ornament”, Home Circle. Nashville, Tenn, 1856)

The main relations of color to be borne in mind are these: Green is the opposite, and the complement, to red; green, therefore, reddens adjacent hues, and red adds a green tinge to them; but green and red set off each other to the best advantage when placed side by side – the green looking greener, the red redder – and this is, of course, most thoroughly the effect when the two colors are alike in depth of tone. What green is to red, yellow is to violet, and blue to orange. In the same way it may be said that the yellow tints of green suggest their compliments and opposites, the violet-reds; the yellow-oranges contrast with violet-blues, and the orange-reds with blue-greens.

Thus the pink of the complexion is brought out by a green setting in dress or bonnet; and any lady who has a fair complexion, that admits of having its rose tint a little heightened, may make effective use of the green color, but it should be a delicate green, since it is of importance to preserve harmony of tone. When there is in the face a tint of orange mixed with brown, a brick-red hue will result from the use of green; if any green at all used in such a case it should be dark.  (“Something for the Ladies About Color“, Harper’s New Monthly Magazine, November, 1854)

A green bonnet is advantageous to fair or rosey complexions. It may be trimmed with white flowers, but preferably with rose….. A green bonnet is suitable to fair and light rosey complexions; rose, red, or white flowers are preferable to all others. (“How to Choose Colors in Dress“, Peterson’s Magazine, 1855)

Worded another way in the London Quarterly Review: A delicate green is favourable to all fair complexions which are deficient in rose, and which may have more imparted to them without inconvenience. But it is not favourable to complexions that are more red than rosy, nor to those that have a tint of orange mixed with brown, because the red they add to this tint will be of a brick-red hue. In the latter case a dark-green will be less objectionable than a delicate green. (1855) (you can tell there was plenty of quoting and paraphrasing going on.)

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Published in: on May 23, 2014 at 12:25 pm  Comments (1)  
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Soft Crown Straw Bonnets

(Okay, I’ll add text later.)

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Published in: on March 15, 2014 at 2:36 pm  Comments (2)  
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Mini-Millinery Success!

This stems from yesterday’s post. Doll size straw plait bonnet take #2 fits Jo’s head and hair just right. I look forward to decorating her bonnet. I’ll be making Mae’s next. Working with her wide hair while getting a 50 shape will be an interesting challenge.

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Peppermint – Full Size, Mini Size

I have waited so patiently to share the photos of this project. Now that the Agricultural Society Fair at the Genesee Country Village is underway and judging has taken place, I can share. Yeah!

This bonnet is called “Peppermint”. The striped pale red and creamy white just begged to be made into a bonnet. (This is one of the silks that was swapped in the FanU Silk Swap). The bonnet is drawn on canes over a buckram base. The flowers are paper in blues and rosey reds.

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This is the bonnet that made me a little ribbon nutty for a few days. I just could not decide which ribbon to go with. There were several ribbon colors that would contrast so nicely with the stripes, a royal blue, a blue-lilac, even a warm brown. But, the more I looked at original drawn bonnet, I saw most of them went with a matching or nearly matching ribbon. With this in mind, I opted for a four inch wide ivory satin from The Ribbon Store, which is much more ivory than the cream of the photo.

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I did say “full size, mini size”. So, here is the mini-size:

A bonnet Mea and Jo to share.

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 In this miniature version, made from the left-overs from the full-size version, the silk is drawn on wire over a small buckram frame. The lining and frill are of the same materials. The flowers are tiny blue paper from the larger roses in the full size bonnet. The ribbon ties are the same as the narrower ties above.

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Doll Millinery

For quite some time now, I have wanted to do a line of millinery for dolls. I finally have a set of patterns for hoods and bonnets drafted for a couple different size dolls including collectable china dolls, like my Mae, fashion dolls and 18″ character dolls.
As the weather has already turned cool (or cold) here, I started with some snuggly warm quilted hoods. Both of these are black silk entirely sewn and quilted by hand.

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This is Jo in her 1850-1865 silk hood. (She needs clothes made for her and a chair to sit In.) Her hood ties below her chin with a black silk ribbon. The inside is silk with the edges whipped for finish.

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Here is Jo with the same style hood done in a dark blueish grey silk quilted in black.
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Here is the larger hood in the same style that will nicely fit a doll with a 9″ circ head as most 18″ character dolls have. This hood is also black silk with a period cotton lining. The interior seam are turned under for durability. The future wearer, or her dresser, will need to pick the perfect ribbon and best placement.

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I’ll have a section of doll millinery up on Etsy soon.

Millinery at Mumford

Here is Lily’s green silk caned bonnet trimmed out in pale pink satin and pink & white flowers.

??????????????????????????????? ??????????????????????????????? Here is my pearl silk caned bonnet trimmed out in rosey pink and paper roses with a silk bordered veil.

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