A Pair of Bonnets

Usually, when we see a bonnet in a cdv we get a bit from a slightly turned front angle. We can see some shape and some trims.

Delightfully, this image gives us fairly clear, nearly sixty degree angles of not one but two bonnets. As these beautiful bonnets are distinctly 1840s pieces, I suspect this is a cdv copy of an earlier image, though I am not well versed in photography nor that process.

We can see both bonnets have a nearly horizontal transition from crown to brim. The brims reach forward of the face, one in a near circle, the other circular with a more vertical line to the cheektabs. These cheektabs are wide, with a gentle curve, lasting at and just below the chin. Both bonnets feature shallow bavolets, while the one on the right shows just a hint of what may be straw plait. Trim is minimal on both, with ribbon or sashing wrapping around the crown of the bonnets in two different methods. One ribbon appears solid while the other shows a design, likely floral. Neither bonnet shows trims on the interior or the lined bonnets. The women’s seperatly worn caps can be seen inside the bonnets.

Published in: on January 19, 2022 at 2:20 pm  Comments (1)  

Anatomy of a Straw Bonnet

Each of these points are general for fashionable bonnets made of straw, primarily straw plait, from approx 1858 through 1863. Finer points adjust with each season’s prevailing fashion.

General Construction – Straw bonnets were sewn by hand in the round. Plaits ranged from 1/8″ split straw to wider whole straw and fancy plaits. Woven straw was also used.

Anatomy 1

Tip – The back section of the crown in the tip. On a straw bonnet this can either be domed, flattened at the back curving to the side of the crown. It should not have a sharp angular transition from the back to the sides.

Crown – The crown of a straw bonnet should create a smooth transition from the crown to the brim. Much of the shaping in the bonnet will be created in this transition area.

Brim – The brim of a straw bonnet will vary according to fashion. The brim’s edge should be a single or double row of straw plait. It should not have raw edges needing to be bound.

Cheek-tabs – The cheek-tabs should have a gentle curve coming from the neck edge of the crown along the side of the bonnet dropping down to roughly your jaw line meeting the brim edge. This is a graceful line, not a straight edge or angular transition. There is a variation in the twist of the cheek-tab from the fifties into the sixties. The cheek-tab is part of what helps hold a bonnet in place.

Binding – The binding on a straw bonnet should be straw plait. Raw edges were covered on the exterior and sometimes the interior along the back of the cheektabs, sides and tip. Multiple rows were used as well.

Lining – A lining is a functional layer of light weight, open-weave cotton covering most of the interior of the bonnet. It aids in keeping the straw from snagging the hair while worn. The lining can not be seen when the bonnet is worn.

Frill/Cap/Ruche –This decorative layer of gathered cotton or silk  covers fills the inside of the brim. This is very fine most often net, lace or organza. The full frill aides in holding the bonnet in place.

Facing – Some bonnets have a facing of silk from the edge of the brim through the first couple inches of the interior brim.

Bavolet/Curtain – The bavolet is attached to the binding edge on a straw bonnet along the sides and crown. This silk piece should be lined with net to give it more body. The bavolet may be a single piece of fabric, most often on the bias and occasionally on the grain, or pieced from bias cuts of ribbon. The bavolet may also be decorated.

Functional Ties – The functional ties are attached to the interior of the cheek-tabs or under the decorative ties. These are narrower ribbon to hold the bonnet in place.

Decorative Ties – Decorative ribbons are wide, 3″-8″ based on a wide survey I did years ago. They are on the grain, not bias. Tied, they do not take the support of the bonnet.

Interior Decoration – Interior decoration also helps hold the bonnet in place.

Anatomy 2

Find the earlier video on Bonnet Stays here: https://youtu.be/gcnLtlDGblk

Published in: on January 15, 2022 at 2:49 pm  Comments (1)  

Victorian Plain & Fancy Work BINGO

Today I offer Victorian Plain & Fancy Work Bingo.

In lieu of monthly challenges, I thought a year long game that could be played independently would be fun.

Published in: on January 4, 2022 at 1:29 pm  Comments (2)  

Hello 2022

I step into this new year as one would step barefoot into freshly dewed grass.

With gentle caution and anticipation. The dew will be frosty cold and wet, yet the grass will be so soft underfoot, with hope and connection.

Just me?

Not knowing what to expect from this year, I do not have the expected list of garments and accessories I hope to sew. Instead, I have framework and a plan.

One of the biggest things I need to keep on top of this year is my budget. As you know, the cost of just about everything has gone up. Meanwhile, contractual increases from my main job does not cover it. I need to push myself to make up the difference with my millinery business going forward.

Patreon Shift

I will be moving more content to Patreon as exclusive Patreon access. This is to thank my current generous Patrons and to encourage new Patrons. The majority of new In Detail publications will be moving Patreon. I will also be exploring additional Patreon exclusive content such as project insights and video content.

Millinery

Knowing most are entering this year with a combination of hope and uncertainty, I want to assure you my millinery will focus on quality and sound research. I want you to be confident when you purchase a bonnet or hat from me, knowing it is well made, with period techniques, and will last many years when cared for.

As I write this in mid-December, my plan is to start sewing shop pieces during recess for January. I am toying with some special straw ideas. A friend actually asked me about something similar, not knowing I planned to explore the idea. I am taking that as a sign.

Interpretation

I plan to continue my focus on women’s employment this year. There is so much of this history to be found and shared, some of it good, some of it bad. I hope to find individual stories from or about these women to accompany the numbers and accounts.

I also want to further explore the connection between fancy work items and the people who created them, the stories the items can tell, and how visitors connect with them. I am continually amazed with how individual visitors connect with particular items, be it a sentimental childhood memory, a deep sensory recollection, or some detail that weaves into something else they know. I feel there is something deeper here to explore, though I am not quite certain what that something is yet.

Clara’s Friends

I will be making an announcement regarding Clara’s Friends soon.

YouTube Channel

I am going to continue the YouTube channel, but I will need to cut back the amount of time I put into it. While I loved making videos over the past two years, I found I was putting more time into them than I realized. Since YouTube will not be an income source, I have to cut back on the amount if time I put in each week. I currently plan to do videos from programs/events, when I have something useful to share, and if I have a project for you. This may change a bit as seasons change or as the year progresses.

Me?

Well. I am still working on some life things. Aren’t we all?

Balance and stability are my personal foci for the year. I bought myself some hiking boots. I miss nature and the woods. A big personal goal this year is to spend more time with Mother Nature. Walking. Sitting. Listening. Feeling.

For personal sewing…. I find I like my plait 1830s dress so much, I am going to make another. I also find I want another cooler weather dress or at least basque. I need to go through my wools to see what I have. I may have a light green plaid with enough yardage to do a basque and skirt set.

Published in: on January 1, 2022 at 1:05 am  Leave a Comment  

Will You Become a Patreon Patron for the New Year

This past year, with the funds from Patreon I have paid for my WordPress platform and domains, WeVideo video editing, and a new document camera.

In the coming year, I hope to continue researching, developing presentations and interpretations, writing, and offering videos. Your support through Patreon will continue to pay for both written and video content, as well as research endeavours.

I would love to double my Patreon supporters to 20 in 2022. Doing so would reduce my regular financial anxieties and allow me to give more focused attention to my work.

If you are able, please consider supporting me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/AMillinersWhimsy

Published in: on December 27, 2021 at 6:46 pm  Leave a Comment  

Reflecting on 2021

It goes without say, yet I am saying it, 2021 was difficult for many people, as was 2020. This year was hard; it tore some people apart in many ways. My heart goes out to those who lost their own this year, who were hit hard, and who tried their alk to keep their head and families above water.

I struggled on my own ways, both financially and in trying to find myself after a stretch of difficult. At times, I was all over the place.

Somehow, I managed to pull off some pretty nifty things. Honestly, goign back through the year, I’ve had several moments of “I did that this year?” This is a photo review of the year.

A Few Finallies

I finally made an 1830s dress suitable for sewing straw in. This dress is fery comfortable to work in.
To go along with my 30s dress, I also finally made myself a cap.

Small Projects

Interpretation

This year, I was able to shift my millinery interpretation from pretty fashion to women’s employment. The straw millinery industry provided many employment end income opportunities for women, from plaiting, to sewing, to finishing in a factory, to assisting at a millinery, to making flowers or bandboxes. Some of these positions had life long physical consequences due to the excessively long seasonal hours. Understanding the aspects of income earning is essential in understanding women’s history.

I put a lot of time into videos for YouTube this year. I started the year with the vision of weekly videos discussing a balance of millinery, Interpretation, and period craft work topics. Well, the year has been a challenge.

Millinery

A new antique millinery block (right) joined the collection. Bonnet blocks are very difficult to come by. It is very nice when I can add one to the collection.
I lost track of how many hats an bonnets I made this year.
I didn’t make as many bonnets this year, compared to hats. There didn’t seem to be as much interest in this millinery staple of the nineteenth century this year. Hopefully, there will be more of an interest next year.
I am rather proud of my Whimsy Witch Hat line. I tried something stuck in my head and enjoyed doing so.
Both of these hood publications are a year behind their goal date. They finally became available this fall.
Published in: on December 27, 2021 at 6:00 am  Comments (1)  

Lappet Style Winter Hoods

She is wearing plaid lappet style winter hood. The plaid is cut on the bias for the brim. It may be silk or wool. There are extant lappet hoods of both wool and silk.

A lappet style winter hood is distinguished by its elongated cheektabs reflecting the look of a lace lappet. These extended cheektabs align with a deep brim that comes forward of the face. Lappet style hoods are batted thinner than many other hoods. This makes it easy to fold back the brim. Laid flat, this deep brim and long lappets can protect the face. Folded back it allows for ease of vision.

This style hood is distinct among its quilted and wadded counterparts, yet lacked a name. The distinct long, wide cheektabs so similarly reflect a lappet’s shape and position of wear, the name lappet became obviously appropriate.

Lappet style hoods are found with three piece construction and two piece construction.

This lappet style hood is a three piece construction. The exterior uses two different brown stripe silks: one for the brim and bavolet, one for the crown. The lining is a bright blue solid silk taffeta. The ties and back bow are made from the brown stripe silk and the blue lining. For more details.
This hood is a three piece construction: crown, brim, and bavolet. This example has a green wool exterior and pink silk interior for the brim while the crown and bavolet are lined in green polished cotton. The pink silk interior would be visible if the brim was turned back. In most of this style, the neck edge of the crown, where the bavolet is attached, a channel is created so it can be drawn up for fit.

This next hood is a two piece construction: a combined brim/crown piece and a bavolet. Notice the bavolet length is on the longer side compared with other styles of winter hoods. This hood had the same green with pink color combination as the one above, but the exterior and interior are both silk.

This all black example is a three piece construction with an silk exterior and interior. You can see a line where this brim was turned back.

Lappet style hoods in other collections:

This pink lappet style hood is currently on display at the Genesee Country Village and Museum. It is shown with the brim turned back. You can see how the neck edge of the crown can be drawn up inside for comfort and fit.

18th century example at the Boston Museum of Fine Art

1850 example at the MET

Pattern:

To make your own lappet style winter hood

Published in: on December 26, 2021 at 8:26 am  Leave a Comment  

A Christmas Morning Unboxing

I am very excited about this one.

Published in: on December 25, 2021 at 10:35 am  Comments (4)  

Do I Have a Pocket Problem?

You decide…

I might be trying to distract myself today.

Published in: on December 17, 2021 at 11:24 am  Comments (2)  

Ornaments for the 19th Century Inspired Tree

Are you looking for ornaments to make this weekend?

My blog stats suggest several people are looking for 19th century ornament ideas.

Over the last couple weekends, many guests commented on how several of 19th century gifts I had displayed
would make nice ornaments. How right they are!

Check out this short video for a look at some of the items:

Several of these projects are available in my Etsy Shop or on my Blogs for Free:

The Pillow Pin Ball can be made up in pretty silks and velvets or holiday cottons for a tree ornament. Put bows, bells, beads, or tassels on the corners. In my Etsy Shop

The Paper Pieced Pin Ball looks great in silk or cotton. Bead the edges or corners instead of using pins. The directions in my Etsy Shop include other combinations for ornaments.

The Slipper Pin Cushion (not in video) in my Etsy shop can make a very pretty ornament. If hung from the heel,
the toe can hold a small gift.

The Parasol Pen Wiper makes a particularly pretty ornament when beaded with clear glass beads that
catch the lights. – Directions are available in this blog post and video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDCY1dmGZ8w
https://annaworden.com/2020/05/06/community-cast-video-day-54/

The Balloon Bag can be made with pretty silks or holiday cottons. As an ornament, the Balloon Bag can hold gifts as well. Directions are available in this post and a two part video:
https://annaworden.com/2020/04/23/community-cast-video-day-41/

The large stocking needle-book has a great shape that can work as a large stocking ornament. It can be made as a single layer, or made to open like a book with photos or a special message inside. The template is available in this project post: https://annaworden.com/2019/11/01/2019-fanu-holiday-project/

I happen to be a big fan of putting hearts on a tree. So, of course I think the heart pin cushions from An American Girls Book make great ornaments. I included directions in this hearts post:

Published in: on December 17, 2021 at 8:26 am  Leave a Comment  
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