Update on the Hood Pattern

Thank you to the many of you who voiced an interest in having my hood pattern available.

I am focusing this week on getting the text, illustrations and pattern pieces in a publishable state. My goal is to have it available for those who will want to make a hood for this winter. Fingers crossed there since this is both a matter of preparation and funds for publication.

I would also like to pull together the hood workshop some of us discussed.

For the published pattern, here is what I have in mind:

  • Pattern pieces for an adult hood in two depths (I was going to include the child’s hood but am having difficulty fitting that.)
  • Directions that are short and easy to understand using a combination of illustations and photos, including information on quilting.
  • An explanation of this type of quilted hood along with observations of extant hoods.
  • Tips on a successful hood in terms of materials and techniques.
  • Passages from Godey’s, Peterson’s, etc regarding quilted hoods and bonnets.
  • Ideas for how to trim your hood based on originals and extant hoods.
  • I’m hoping for a price point between $10 and $15, which will be based on what my print shop can do for me. (they are great.)

Muddle Thoughts – Weekend Event Reflection

I have such a mix of thoughts on this past weekend that they really are a muddle of thoughts. This weekend was Hull Family House’s candle-light tours and living history. It also combined into the mix the final of my 1830s travel at GCVM.

Before I get into all those muddled up thoughts, I do want to say I absolutely loved how the weekend was for Dan and I. I really enjoyed my husband and our time together this weekend. It was so very nice. We didn’t have any spats over any of the things we normally do like packing, setting up, arranging. We relaxed, spent time together, chatted with friends old and new. Somehow this may be a favorite time for me.

One of the prevailing mixes of thought is while I’m doing something I love, I’m tired of feeling lousy. This whole season I’ve had problems with being able to sleep and feeling utterly miserable by early afternoon. I get this feeling like every bit of energy has been drained out of me along with either a headache or inability to focus. This weekend did me in for both the sleep and the feeling awful. I wasn’t able to sleep at all Saturday night despite my husband being in the same tent as me. For the life of me I couldn’t get comfortable on my cot where I used to sleep oh-so soundly. Without my ticking and being on an incline I slid down to the point where my back was right on the seam across the cot where it was repaired. Oh, does my back still hurt from that. The drainedness was accompanied by down right nausea through most of the day. There were points where I think the only reason I stayed upright was because my corset held me up. This whole thing is so disconcerting to me. I don’t know how much is me health wise and how much is the way of doing an event is so very different for me this year. In years past, I was ready for an event well in advance right down to the food heavy with vitamins and water. During an event I had a comfortable home base that was mine or mine and Jackie’s either at a home or under Jackie’s fly with our tents attached. We watched out for each other food, drink and activity wise. She often had to play mom to make sure I didn’t drop because I don’t always know when to stop or when my face gets too red. This season I haven’t had the right water pitchers and glass out; I haven’t had my tins and crocks with pre-planned food; I haven’t had that deep night’s sleep; I haven’t taken my infamous battle-time nap; I haven’t know every minute of the day what activity I am going to be doing; I also haven’t had that much of a purpose. So, obviously I have to get myself back on track.

One would think having the weather turn out to be simply beautiful, warm and sunny, rather than the cold rainy weather predicted would be a good thing, right? I know, it should be. It helps with attendance. But, I have to be honest I was counting on cold weather because cold weather would prompt people to buy warm clothing like hoods. I had three hoods up on Etsy over the weekend and two in Pat’s tent in hopes that they would sell so we can pay for storage due and Sprint due this week. With the sunny warm weather, no one needed a nice warm comfy hood.

This one might make a few people upset. Leaving the museum, I drove as quickly as I could to Hull House thinking I would be doing a guide roll. Not the case. This isn’t a big deal on a personal level; I was fine with not having to be a guide. I do think there were some major communication problems. To be honest, I don’t think it was on the side of the Hull House. They had this great system down. I was very impressed watching and listening to the women and men doing the great many things they pulled off. (Yes, even when I’m a physical wreck with myself completely tuned out I still can’t help observing these things.) They volunteers of Hull House went above and beyond making reenactors comfortable for this weekend. I really feel sorry for the organizers on that end because I got the sense information on the tours was not given to them in a timely fashion either. Seeing what the HH volunteers do for the reenactors makes me want to be able to bend over backwards for them including giving them an outstanding level of pre-planning.

As I said this weekend was also my last travel program for GCVM. I’ve enjoyed talking with Bevin and Matt about the visitor experience in such a focused way. I’ve definitely determined I prefer an interactive program to a presentation mode program. It is very beneficial knowing the diversity in audience/visitor preferences. With my own muddle of thoughts, I can only imagine what Matt has to sort through. In between performances I was able to finish up the set of carpet bags, getting their handles on. They really do look nice with the handles on, finally looking like bags. As nice as they look, as functional as they will be, I don’t think I will ever make bags out of real carpet again. (I hope to do a post about my thoughts on carpet from this experience.)

I guess that completes my muddling of thoughts, or at least the ones I can put together enough to communicate. This week I’m planning to get a good chunk of the hood pattern together. There seems to be a good deal of desire for that based on the FB responses I received. I have a few other things to do as well that I’m hoping will be doable if I get enough gas money together.

Published in: on September 26, 2011 at 9:08 am  Comments (5)  

Article on Williams Clothiers on the Fit of Men’s Trousers

There is an excellent new article over on the Williams Clothiers notebook. “How to Wear Trousers Properly and Avoid Gaposis” includes numerous images and informative text. Take a look!

Published in: on September 18, 2011 at 5:12 pm  Leave a Comment  

A Bit of Velvet

This weekend’s hoods each got trimmed with some black velvet. Several period magazines suggest velvet trim for quilted hoods and bonnets in their fashion columns. This velvet seems to add a nice warming touch.

 

 

Published in: on September 18, 2011 at 3:43 pm  Leave a Comment  

Agricultural Society Fair Entries

I still have all the ribbons I won at the Genesee Country Village and Museum’s Agricultural Society Fair. Believe it or not I actually won a blue ribbon for my handwriting. Go figure.

This year I’m entering a variety of sewn goodies.

First is my pair of sewing cases, also called housewifes. I do like this little pair. They will be entered under the sewn items category.

Under the “Quilted Projects” category, I’ll have a pieced article of clothing and a quilted article of clothing. For a pieced item, I’ll be entering my quilted pocket.

The quilted article of clothing entry will be the quilted hood I am working on.

For my sewn article of clothing I keep changing my mind between one of my little purses or the capote hood I teeter-totter from liking to disliking.

 

Published in: on September 16, 2011 at 8:11 am  Leave a Comment  

Hood Observations

I should say quilted hood observations focusing on those which are shaped to resemble bonnets as there are so many kinds of winter hoods from the mid-century. You can find soft hoods which drape the head and shoulders, fluffly soft hoods which wrap around the head, shaped hoods which look similar to bonnets, those which are moderately shaped to cover the head and shoulders, and a multitude of combinations. Right now, I’m just looking at those which are shaped like a bonnet. (Yes, forcing myself to focus.)

Lets start with lining. I assumed incorrectly that I would see the majority of the interiors done in silk. As it turns out the vast majority of the linings are cottons. Some are solids, others are prints. Some are polished cottons, others are un-polished.  Here you can see the brown polished cotton on the interior:

Image A - From "The Graceful Lady" site - A black velvet hood trimmed in fur with a polished cotton interior and black silk facing.

  

Shape

The shape of quilted hoods seems to range from mimicing the shape of bonnets right down to the shape of the cheek tabs to roughly suggesting a bonnet shape, more following the shape of the head in order to hug it with widened or shallowed cheek tabs. This green hood from MFA has rather distinctive cheek tabs. This quilted hood has a roughly follows the lines of a bonnet with a shallower brim, fitting closer to the face and cheektabs which are wider:

Image B - From "The Graceful Lady" site - Silk quilted hood with a bonnet-like shape which fits closer to the shape of the head. The turn back is of an accent fabric, as is the piping and binding.

The tips found in extant bonnets include both circular and those with flat bottoms. Someone also shared with me an ‘ugly’ style hood with a tear-drop shape tip.) Image B, above is an example of a tip with a flat bottom to which the bavolet attaches directly. This black silk bonnet from the MET collection is an example of a circular tip.

The bavolets, or curtains, are most often quilted though at times with a lesser fullness or thickness than the body of the hood. The shapes appear to include both straight pieces gathered to fit the neckline as well as curved pieces shaped to the neckline. The fronts of the bavolets appear in hoods both in attached and not attached states. The bavolet in image B is unattached, while those in image A, the green MFA hood and the black MET hood are all attached to the cheek tabs.

Materials

Exterior materials appearing in extant hoods include a variety of weaves of silks, velvets and light weight wools. I have heard word of cotton hoods as well, but have yet to see them in person. The silks include very fine silks to those that may have been considered inferior at the time with varigation in the dye and fiber/thread thickness. Some are woven stripes using taffeta, twill and satin weaves (Image B is a woven stripe). Some are printed fabrics including stripes and floral-stripes. Plaids are also seen. The exterior material is seen both set on the grain and on the bias. I have yet to determine which is more frequent and whether an angle or direction of the bias stripes or plaids is more common than other placements.

Trims

Extant hoods show a number of trims including fabric trims, fur and feathers. In this hood, the facing and possibly the lining is an accent silk set on the bias and turned out acting as a trim. On the green hood from the MFA collection  we see a complimenting, nearly same colored fabric being used as a pleated trim around the brim and bavolet. On the black silk MET hood we see a self fabric trim pleated and placed around the brim, bavolet and tip. This hood also demonstrates the placement of ribbons. On this hood we see where the fur or down trim had encompassed the brim:

Image C - from Ebay - Black silk hood trimmed in fur or down. (currently for sale as of posting)

Wadding and Structure

Inside the hoods, the wadding has included cotton, wool and down. In the above image C, you can see some of the wadding revealed. Thicknesses seem to range from under a half inch to almost an inch. (The hoods known as ‘uglies’ are much thicker.) Whether this thickness has compacted over time is unknown.

The extant hoods I’ve looked at thus far have included those which are completely soft with no structure and this with structure in the brim or tip. The green hood from the MFA collection  is caned through the brim giving the brim support. A hood in the Greene collection at GCVM has a woven straw in the tip for support.

Some of the hoods are assembled with piping, same fabric and contrasting/complimenting, others are seen without piping. The same can be said for binding along the brim and bavolet.

Additional Links

This appears to be a black silk hood with a white or off white cotton interior. (who’s hood this was)

This little one is likly a child’s or doll’s.

Published in: on September 14, 2011 at 8:45 am  Comments (1)  
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How to Dress for a Photographer

This is a guest post thanks to Jenna Theissen. She shared this piece from the May 27th, 1865 edition of  All the Year Round, Weekly Gazette & Comet out of Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Thank you to Jenna for sharing this interesting piece of information.

A lady or gentleman, having made up her or his mind to be photographed, naturally considers, in the first place, how to be dressed so as to show off to the best advantage. This is by no means such an important matter as many might imagine. Le me offer a few words of advice touching dress. Orange color, for certain optical reasons, if photographically dark. Blue is white; other shades or tones of color are proportionally dark or lighter as they contain more or less of these colors. the progressive scale of photographic color commences with the lightest. The order starts thus: White, light-blue, violet, pink, mauve, dark-blue, lemon, blue green, leather-bound, drab, cerise, magenta, yellow-green, dark-brown, purple, red, amber, maroon, orange, dead-black.

 

Complexion has to be much considered in connection with dress. Blondes can wear much lighter colors than brunettes; the latter always present better pictures in dark dresses, but neither look well in positive white. Violent contrast of colors should be especially guarded against. In photography brunettes possess a great advantage over the fairer sisters. The lovely goelden tresses lose all their transparent brilliancy, and are represented black; whilst the bonnie blue theme of rapture to the poet, is misery to the photographer; for is put entirely out. The simplest and most effective way of removing the yellow color from the hair is to powder it nearly white, is is thus brought to about the same photographic tint as in nature. The same rule, of course, applies to the complexions. A freckle quite invisible at a distance is, on account of it’s yellow color, rendered most painfully off tint when photographed. The puff box must be called inot the assistance of art. Here let me intrude one word of general advice. Blue, as we have seen is the most readily affected by light, and yellow the beast! It, therefore, you would keep your complexion clear and free from the tan freckles whilst taking your delightful rambles as the seaside, discard by all means the blue veil, and substitute a dark green or yellow one in its stead. Blue tulle oiler, no more obstruction to the actinic rays of the sun then white. Half a yard of yellow net though perhaps not so becoming, will be more efficacious and sonsderably chaper then a quart of kalydor.

This additional piece comes from the reverse side of a card from Flynn’s Gallery in Salem, N.Y.

 

“Some simple facts concerning Color will be useful to many, especially ladies, when deciding how to dress for a Photographic picture. Dark brown, dark green, maroon and plaind black goods, without gloss, will take a rich black color. Silks of the same will take considerably lighter, because they are glossy. Snuff-brown, dark blue, drab, scarlet, cherry, dark orange, crimson and slate, will take a very rich look. Violet, blue, purple, pink and magenta, will take very light and should be used dressing for photographs. The prevailing style of Plaids will take well. The hair should never be very wet or glossy.”

 

Published in: on September 13, 2011 at 8:54 am  Leave a Comment  

FFtF

Are you thinking about a millinery project for the fall or winter?

Do you want to know more about the lovely straw bonnet you wear?

Are you interested in cottage industries in the mid-century?

If yes is the answer any of these, check out From Field to Fashion: The Straw Bonnet, available through my Etsy store for just $10.

bookletscan

From Field to Fashion is a 46 page booklet with the following sections:
– Straw Bonnets and the Straw Bonnet Industry
– Straw, Harvest and Preparation
– Straw Plait
– Straw Cloth
– The Straw Bonnet Base
– Industry and Labor
– Finishing the Straw Bonnet
– Who Wore a Straw Bonnet When?
and an Appendix:
1 – Original Bonnets Online
2 – Bonnet Production in Massachusetts, 1855
3 – Millinery Establishments by State, 1860
4 – Straw Bonnet Shapes
5 – Fashion Quotes from Harper’s Monthly & Weekly
6 – Fashion Quotes from Godey’s Ladies Book
7 – Straw bonnet quotes from fiction
8 – Wheat and Rye produced, 1850 & 1860
9 – Straw Industry Statistics
10 – Straw and Bonnet Related US Patents

Published in: on September 12, 2011 at 9:01 am  Leave a Comment  

A Practical Look at Winter Clothing

I’m sure you’ve noticed my focus on being prepared for cool and colder weather as of late. It may seem a bit early since it is just now Labor Day, but for some of us the cold fall and colder winter weather will be here soon.

In my browsings I stumbled across this 1859 magazine published out of Buffalo, NY called The Home Monthly with a practical take on winter clothing:  

Winter Clothing – Style and Material

We do now propose keeping our readers in the latest Parisian style, for we have no Genio Scott, Genin or Brodie to consult, and we hardly think we shall fail of our purpose without them. We do not choose to cater to fastidious fondness for the very latest pattern, and encourage ladies in exhausting their entire time with thoughts in the “where-withal shall we be clothed.”

Every lady ought to be dressed well, if not her purse will permit, but that does not mean to cast off a garment, because something later than that has appeared in the fashionable world, and that too with no regard to the better uses to which such expenditures could be put. But of course we need not mention this, for that sort of woman would scarcely read a magazine without fashion plates.

To dress meanly with no reason for so doing, and above all, to make religion an excuse for shabbiness, as Timothy Titcomb says, is abominable. It lessens our usefulness. We should be as beautiful as we can make ourselves, but that is not accomplished by any means in following the rule of fashion plates.

Merinos, and all wool Delaines are the most sensible as well as most durable of all materials for out-door wear at this season. Cut with pointed basques on slender figures, and trimmed neatly, with a dainty cambric collar and sleeves, and you have a costume suited to all ordinary occasions for winter wear. One’s own taste and length of purse should be the guide for extraordinary ones. Large plaids on small people, stripes on very tall ones; and Bayedere on short persons, are all equally unbecoming. Indeed, all conspicuous patterns weary the wearer who has refined taste, as well as the beholder. Above all thinks, consult, if possible, in an indirect way those you love best as to color, &c., provided your complexion will permit a choice.

The prettiest and most serviceable bonnet for winter is a black velvet. It admits of remodeling, and can be worn with propriety with any colored outer garment, and any color about the face.

The loose sacque or raglan of ladies’ cloth, is exceedingly convenient, as well as pretty and inexpensive for a cloak, as not trimming is required – nothing but a binding neatly stitched on.

The same material to be used for children’s wear, both boys and girls. Pretty wool cheques are cheap and durable for girl’s winter dresses, and boy’s coatees for the house. Above all things, don’t let them be made too short at the top and bottom of the garment. Many a mother’s pride has been gratified by the praise bestowed upon the fair neck and rounded limbs of her child, and after her heart has been broken, while laying them from her sight forever. Which will your choose?

Dress them warmly and let them out into the frosty, fresh air to grow rounder and fairer, albeit no one but yourself see how fair. We did not purpose saying this much, but it is written. Quarterly we will endeavor to suggest whatever is worthy of mention among the novelties of the season, always keeping our peculiar views of substantiality and beauty side by side.

New Materials

The challies which are offered at very reasonable prices this fall, are pretty, and seem likely to be the most durable of any commone dress goods that we find. They are nearly all in bayadere stripes – some of them high colored, but where warmth and durability are required we think they will be found very desirable. There is also a new material of Angola wool for dresses – heavier than wool delanes or merinos, which we judge to be very desirable for these qualities, viz: strength and durability, unless the satin stripe that adorns it should be found to fray out. – Dresses of this material can be bought in New York at $6, the pattern. This comes the nearest to ladies’ cloth of anything we have seen. The high-colored printed cashmeres – merino styles – are offered as low as six shillings per yard, while we found recently at Stewart’s the best colors of printed French merinos at a dollar per yard. The bright chintz, patterned, all wool delaines are offered lower than ever before. But no delaine can be as cheap as a good merino at least to those who wear their dresses out. We are glad to see more durable material for dresses coming into market. Much time and labor in dress-making will be saved by those who emply these materials. It is also a saving of expense, for the cost of making and trimming a dress of good, and of worthless material is very nearly the same. Every lady, then, should feel that time and labor are wasted in the making up of flimsy material and even if her means should be at first seem too limited to purchase that which is better, she should make a special effort to save up “capital to economise with”.

Published in: on September 5, 2011 at 9:03 am  Comments (1)  
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A Half Dozen Housewifes

I had fun putting these little pieces together. It can be fun playing with the fabrics, putting them together in ways I think the original cast might have.

 

Each of these are available for purchase on Etsy at a special limited time price  .

I’m looking forward to doing some rolled pocket cases with each pocket a variation on one kind of fabric – Turkey reds, poison greens, Prussian blues and chrome yellows. I may even play with some all in plaids.

Published in: on August 30, 2011 at 12:44 pm  Comments (1)  
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