Lighting a Christmas Tree

I found this little snip-it rather intriguing and a bit horrifying. I just had to share. It comes from the December 1867 edition of the American Agriculturalist. We housekeepers know that this is really the busiest season of the year, but the work is so agreeable and is interspersed with so much that is delightfully mysterious, we never think of it being work at all, and only regret we have not each two pairs of  hands, that we might accomplish more. Christmas is so near, and then – well – Charlie is coming home from Chicago, and Willie from New York. They will come so late, we must have a tree all trimmed, the presents hung, and the candles ready to be lighted before they arrive. What a pity we cannot have gas out here in the country, and so have a Christmas tree drop-light, like the one cousin Tom has in Liverpool! The most vivid imagination could scarcely convert our little candles and lamps (I beg their pardon for mentioning it. May their shadows never be less, ) into the fifty bright jets which illuminated their tree; or transform Jennie’s doll, which will hover with out-stretched arms over our tree, suspended from the ceiling by a string around her waist – a contrivance of Ralph’s – into the silver Christ-child nestling in the upper branches, “all radiant with light as with a flood of glory,” as Tom described it in his letter to Ralph. Father says if the Petroleum Oil Gas Co. gets to work, and does as well as he thinks it will, we shall have our house lighted with gas before another Christmas. I don’t suppose father would get us a drop with fifty lights, but one with six or eight, as in figures 1 and 2, would be very nice among our candles and lamps. Yes, eight, opened to the best advantage, as shown in figure 1, would quite set off a tree.”

Published in: on December 1, 2012 at 9:08 am  Leave a Comment  
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Some 19th Century Reading for the Season

Here is a mid-nineteenth century book that takes a look at Christmas, New Years and Twelfth Night. The Book of Christmas: Descriptive of the Customs, Ceremonies, Traditions, Superstitions, Fun, Feeling, and Festivities of the Christmas Season, by Thomas Kibble Hervey (1845)

This short book is filled with history and traditions from the 19th century perspective. The Christmas book: Christmas in the olden time, its customs and their origin : the holly and ivy, sports of the eve, Yule log, boar’s head, the dinner, mummers, Lord of Misrule, Saturnalia, carols, mysteries and plays, boxes, &c. &c, by Pattie & Glaiser (London,1859)  

Another – Christmas in the Olden Time, or The Wassail Bowl,  by John Mills (1846)

Looking for some poetic phrasing for the character growing up in the 1830s? Christmas, a Poem,  by Edward Moxon.

A short to moderate pieces of fiction – Christmas at Under-Tor: An American Christmas Story,  by Clarence Gordon;   Christmas Hours, by Ticknor & Fields (1858)

Published in: on November 28, 2012 at 9:11 am  Comments (2)  
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Two Surprise Finds – or, When Costumes aren’t Costumes

As many of you know, Dan and I are finally moving. Since I gave away some furniture before going to NM, we are in need of a dining table and bookshelve. Today we stopped in to a warehouse that had some tables listed on craigslist. Inside we found theater sets and racks of costumes instead. Of course, we had to look.

On those racks I found two dresses that needed to be rescued. One is a brown windowpane plaid wool sheer. The other is a simple cotton.

I took some photos to share then rolled them up for a closer look once we are in our place and I can lay them out with some more light. At that point, I’ll take some measurements. Both dresses are study quality because they are damaged and altered in some ways for theater wear.

Here is a slide show of the brown sheer. You will see, it has some significant fracture points in the bodice and skirt. Looking at the bodice, you can see a dart fractured on the left. On the right the same one was removed. There are two darts remaining. The neckline has a very narrow piping. Notice the net applied, likely, at a later date. The waist is pleated through the sides and front; gauged in the back. The change in the turn-over is very noticable. The sleeve is simple a “look at this sleeve”. I look forward to making more notes on it. The net is the same at the neckline. Looking at the repairs and alterations, we see several theatrical ones including one I need to look closer at in the waist on the back right side. There is a,likely, contemporary gusset under the right arm.

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Here is the cotton dress. This one is either an original or one stallar early reproduction. My ‘iffiness’ is due to a couple features that just aren’t very common in dresses from 1855 to 1865. Maybe these push the dress slightly later time period or maybe it is a costume. The neckline is the big one for me. (of course this is the photo that didn’t come out clear.) The most common neck treatment seen is the narrow piping with self fabric and cord. This has a self fabric strip of fabric that is set on the grain. This brings the neckline slightly higher. The other piece is the closer, actually the top of the closer. This is not a technique I’ve seen before. Two small bits are the piping which is a tad bit thicker than I would expect as well as the lining, which is also a tad heavy. Now, these aspects could just be a utilitarian componant. On the flipside, the aspects that make me think this is an original are the pocket, the deep pocket which is an aspect of mid-nineteenth century dress that moved from a smaller research tid-bit to a wider-known in the past ten years, and the fabric used for the hem backing.

Published in: on November 24, 2012 at 5:05 pm  Comments (1)  

Homemade Christmas Ornaments from 1881

From Cassell’s Household Guide: Being a Complete Encyclopedia of Domestic and Social Economy Volume III, 1881 (published in London and New York.)

The Christmas-Tree may be made at home for a very trifling cost. Long as they have been in fashion in England for juvenile parties, of for Christmas-eve, these trees seem to be still in favour almost as much as ever. Christmas-trees may be covered with paltry trifles, or made the medium of dispensing suitable gifts amongst the members of a household. When the latter plan is to be adopted, each article is to be marked with the names of the intended recipient. It is also very well to add a few boxes of sugar-plums and valueless trifles, which can afterwards be raffled for. The ordinary Christmas-tree is covered with miscellaneous articles, some of more value than others, which are either distributed at hazard by the lady deputed to cut them down, or lots are drawn out of a bag of numbers corresponding to those fixed on the little presents themselves. A good-sized fir-tree, of regular shape, and with nice wide-spreading arms, is wanted. Cover this at regular intervals with gelatin lights, which are better and safer than wax tapers. These lights are like ordinary night-lights, each on contained in a little cup of gay-coloured gelatin, resembling the glass lamps used at illuminations when gas is not employed. Take care to place these lights so that not one of them is put under a bough, which may set alight. Suspend them by fine wire, not cotton or string, which will take fire. A little beyond every light arrange a bright tin reflector, star, or silvered glass ball. A number of flags are requisite to add to the gaiety of the tree, which a few bows of coloured ribbon will also emhance.

A good many small ornamental paper boxes and cases holding sugar-plums will add well to the decorations of the tree. To make paper cones, cut squares of white or coloured paper. Fold the square in half, like fig 2, and cut off the piece at the top, making the two sides equal. When opened, it will resemble fig 3. Gum it as far as the dotted line, and join it. Be sure to join it so that there is not a hole at the point. If it is made of white paper, cut some strips of red, of green, and of gold paper. Edge it with gold, and paste stripes of red, green and gold around it spirally at intervals. If the cone is made of coloured paper, use gold, white, and some favourably contrasting hue. Fig 4 illustrates it. Another pretty way to make a rather superior ornament is to cut a cone of bright green satin-paper, and join it. Cut a tassel, and fasten it at the point. To the top gum a piece of scarlet sarcenet, with a mouth like a bag, and over the join run some blond lace; turn a row each way, and gum a strip of gold paper between (see fig 5). Fig 6 is another kind of sugar-plum case. Cut a straight piece of card, and sew it together  to make a round like a drum. Cut a circular piece to fit one end. Cover the sides round with paper, notch the edges, and turn them down at one end over the piece fitted in, and, if well gummed, they will keep it in place. The other end may be sewed in. Cut a round piece of coloured paper, and gum on lastly at the end. Have a bag-top of some pretty piece of passemeterie or gilt paper over the join. If the box is covered with straw-colour, and the bag is of blue satin, it will look pretty. Odds and ends of ribbon may be used in making up these little boxed. A more valuable case may be made by first constructing a box of a strip card, goring it with a strip of paper each side instead of by sewing. Cover this with white paper. When quite dry, bind both edges with blue satin ribbon. Then draw, in water-colours, a garland of flowers round barrel. Very neatly sew a blue satin bag at each end. Put a little powdered scent in, enough wadding to fill the bags, and place it on the tree. It may be suspended by its own strings of blue ribbon. A pedestal is a good design for a fancy case. A design for one is given in fig 8. To construct it, take a piece of card large enough to allow its four sides. Cut this like fig 1, allowing four equal sides and a bit over; half-cut through the dotted lines on the right side. Join it round with the small piece inside, and fix it with strong gum. Cut a square larger then the pedestal, for the base in fig 10, below the dotted line, gum them, and fix on the base. For the lid, cut a piece like the base, and a second piece like Fig 10. Half-cut through the dotted lines. Join the piece as the pedestal was joined, and fix the top to this piece in a similar way to that used in joining the base. But Fig 9 must be a little narrower each side than Fig 1, so that the smaller piece, fig 9, may neatly fit just inside the larger, fig 1. Another way to make this is to cut two pieces like fig 1, one just small enough to fit inside the other, and fix square ends of equal size to each. To close the box, put one inside another. Ornament the outer one with coloured paper, and bind the edges with gold, or merely bind the edges and draw a group of flowers on each side in water-colours, and also on the lid.

Fig 12, a Drum, can be made of paper, and ornamented with strips of red and of gold paper, and have a few sugar-plums inside. To make it , join a piece of paper as for fig 6. Draw, with a bow-pencil, a round as large as the top, and a second round a little larger. Cut out the larger round, and notch the edges up (fig 13). When you have done this, turn down the edges, gum them, and fit them into the drum. For the outer end cut a similar piece, put a loop of thread or ribbon in the centre, and put it in without gumming it. Made in card, ornamented, filled with sweetmeats, and a piece of net gummed at the top, with a band of gold paper over the join, it is very pretty.

Fig 14 is a Muff. – Make this of a bit of plush that look like fur. Put a shallow, red silk bag-mouth at each end, to look like the lining. Draw up one end and sew it. Cut a piece of paper the size of the muff, roll it round, and slip it inside to keep the muff out stiff. Cardboard can be used in stead of paper. Put in the sugar-plums, and draw up the mouth.

The Lucky Shoe (fig 15) – Cut a shoe by fig 16, of any pretty material; join in and bind it neatly. Cut a sole by fig 17. Before joining the upper part, see that it fits the sole well. Cut the sole of card, and tack the material over it. Sew the shoe to the sole all round outside. Cut a sole of white paper a little smaller than the first; gum it, and fix it inside. Make a back, and sew it neatly to the shoe. Fill with scented wadding, sweetmeats, &c. according to fancy. If the articles on the tree are raffled for, and the tree is intended for grown-up girls, as sometimes happens at a Christmas party, it causes much mirth to secrete a mock wedding-ring in one of the shoes, underneath the sugar-plums or wadding. Then make known to the company that there is a ring to be found, and predict that the finder will be the first married. The lucky shoe is a very good place for it, ad shoes have, in superstitious times, always been associated with supposed charms – the horse-shoe to keep away evil spirits, the old shoe for luck to be thrown after the bride, the shoes crossed at the bedside to make the owner dream of her sweetheart, &c.

The Hour-Glass (fig 18) – This may be made in two ways. First cut four pieces like fig 19, cutting off the dotted piece at the side (not at the top). Cover each piece with white satin; sew them together. Cut two rounds, much larger, of card; cover each with brown satin. Sew on by the pieces marked A and B, fig 19, which are to be turned down. They should have been half-cut through before sewing. Take two pieces of wire, bind coloured ribbon round them, and sew them to the hour-glass. Cut a piece of card like fig 11; half-cut through the dotted line; stitch it to the top; cover the top with satin. This completes the whole of it. The second and simpler way is to cut the hour-glass like fig 19, half-cutting through the dotted lines, and by the side pieces; gum them neatly together. On the sides draw flowers in water-colours, or paste on spangles.

Published in: on November 21, 2012 at 8:41 am  Comments (2)  
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Fanciful Utility – Fun Ways for Fabric Pieces

Anyone working on or planning their sewing case projects from Fanciful Utility knows just how much fun bits & pieces of fabric are.
For those shopping online for bundles of fabric pieces, check out these period correct cotton scrap packs. She is including an assortment of good size pieces for a great price. With the approximate yard and a half in each pack, you could make several sewing cases.
Another fun way to fun way to make the most of fabric? How about a fabric swap! Either in person or by mail, a group of sewing friends could get together to swap fabric. Figure if a dozen friends sent each other a 6″ by 12″ piece of fabric, each person would have a dozen pieces to play with. Each could make several cases with their new stash. Your group could pick a theme of mid-century cotton, late-century cottons, silks or something modern. Remember to share yur photos after!
If you haven’t picked up your copy of Fanciful Utility yet, please visit the Sewing Academy. to order your copy.

Published in: on November 18, 2012 at 10:23 am  Leave a Comment  
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Fichu Pattern Pre-Sales

Announcing my new pattern!

Pre-orders are now being taken through November 25th. Pre-ordered patterns will be shipped on December 1st or 3rd. As this initial printing will entirely depend on the number of pre-orders, be sure to order early. Please visit my Etsy Store to place your order.

Whether for a ball or a summer day, a fichu is a lovely accessory. From light and airy to soft with hints of color, fashionable fichus were worn with day wear as well as evening and dinner wear. This pattern will guide you in making a fashionable fichu extending the versatility of your Civil War era or antebellum, 1850s wardrobe. With the four popular shapes of the era included in this pattern along with the many variations of embellishment described in the pattern directions booklet, you can make an almost endless variety of era accurate fichus.

Each pattern includes:
A single sheet pattern with four fichu styles
A directions booklet with observations of fichus, directions and fashion descriptions.

Please visit my Etsy Store to place your order.

 

Since several people are looking to make a fichu as a gift, I thought it would be nice to get them started with some fabrics while we wait for the pattern to ship.

 

Published in: on November 15, 2012 at 4:39 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Fichu Pattern Coming Soon!

EDIT: November 2014: My Fichu Pattern is officially out of print and sold out (the last copy left the Genesee Country Village earlier this month). I plan Not to reprint this pattern due to the cost of doing so. 

I finally sat down and put the fichu pattern together. Okay, I’ll admit, it was getting to the printer to get the main pattern scanned that was the hurdle. From there, the layout for the directions booklet fell right into place. This pattern follows the same format as my quilted hood pattern – a pattern page and a booklet containing observations, directions and fashion information accompanied by photographs and illustrations.

Here I am wearing one of the variations of the pattern. The pattern offers three different shapes for the lappets as well as multiple ways to embellish the fichu.

This is another version of a fichu, without lappets.

Published in: on November 13, 2012 at 4:13 am  Leave a Comment  
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Brrrrr…. Its Getting Cold Out There

I think by now we are all feeling the chill of the changed season. Sadly, some of us are dealing with a shockingly bad version of this seasonal transition.

This is a link heavy post, filled with seasonal favorites for you to puruse. You will find hints for keeping warm as well as contemporary readings for Christmas. You will also find a fun project.

Let’s start by keeping the body and home warm with “Keeping Warm this Winter” and last year’s “A Practical Look at Winter Clothing.” For an event prep list, check out “Are You Ready.”When thinking about winter clothing, you know I would love you all to make up my Quilted Hood Pattern. *wink* But, if you happen to be focusing on the 1840s, do give the pattern developed by Bevin Lynn for the Genesee Country Village a try.

Do you have gift making in mind? Last year, my series on the 12 Homemade Gifts seemed quite popular. (I’ll be sharing a couple passages from mid-century magazines and books for making more gifts and ornaments in the upcoming weeks.)

A few mid-nineteenth century readings…

The First Christmas Tree , an 1869 publication translated from the French – http://books.google.com/books?id=gcMBAAAAQAAJ&pg=PP6&source=gbs_selected_pages&cad=3#v=onepage&q&f=false

The Christmas Tree: A Story for Young and Old, translated from the German in this 1866 version – http://books.google.com/books?id=C6cDAAAAQAAJ&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false

A Present from Germany: The Christmas Tree, 1840, by E. Perry. http://books.google.com/books?id=TccNAAAAQAAJ&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false

The Christmas Tree and other stories, for the Young, by Mrs. Lovechild, 1863 – http://books.google.com/books?id=m6AXAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false

I would be remiss if I did not include Charles Dickens’ Christmas Books with the well known “Christmas Carol” – http://archive.org/stream/christmasbooks00dickrich#page/n15/mode/2up

Household Words – Christmas Stories: 1851-1858  by Charles Dickens http://books.google.com/books?id=W8xbAAAAQAAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false

 And to close, a way too fun project:  

Check this out – Christmas village! http://archive.org/details/SantasChristmasVillage

Published in: on November 6, 2012 at 2:16 am  Leave a Comment  
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“Painted like an apple, plum, or peach”

For those wondering “can I make these for….”, here is a follow up to the strawberry emery post.

This is a clip from the 1833 edition of A Girls Own Book, by Lydia Child:

This comes from Eliza Leslie’s 1831 American Girl’s Book:

“This pincushion is made of a piece of coarse linen, about half a quarter square, cut into two triangular or three-cornered halves, stuffed with bran and covered with scarlet cloth; which cover must be sewed neatly on the wrong side, and then turned. The top or broad part must be gathered so as to meet all round, and concealed by sewing on a small round piece of green velvet, scalloped in imitation of the cap of green leaves that surround the stem where it joins the strawberry. The stem must be imitated by sewing on a small green silk cord. To represent the seeds, the strawberry must be dotted over with small stitches, made at regular distances with a needle-full of yellow silk, and close to each yellow stitch must be a stitch of black.

Emery bags are often made in this manner, but of course much smaller; not exceeding the size of a large strawberry.”

From Godey’s Lady’s Book in 1869, we have this pear:

Published in: on October 25, 2012 at 2:15 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Strawberry Emory

Most of us have grown up with the tomato pin-cushion from which dangles the strawberry emery. This fruit and veggie pair seems to be the strongest survivors of almost tasty looking fruit and vegetable shaped pin-cushions that appear to have peaked in popularity towards the end of the nineteenth century. Often made of velvets, silks and wools, these take shape as apples, pears and carrots to name just a few. These fruit and vegetable shapes are an occasional curiosity of mine. So, when I stumbled upon this fun description of the strawberry emeries, I had to share it with you.

“She was just telling me she had finished stitching the strawberry seeds into the emeries, and wanted another job. She made most of the emeries. I cut out the strong cotton bags, and let her sew them up over a similarly shaped woolen sack filled with emery. She made the red silk sacks, and fastened them on, ready for the green leaves and the cord. She stitched in the seeds with yellow saddler’s silk. I think they are very pretty, and she is delighted with them.”(American Agriculturalist, December 1867)

By the way, this conversational passage, which goes on, was followed by this nifty little labyrinth:

UPDATE

Here is another strawberry emery, knit, found in both Peterson’s and Godey’s in 1859: