UFOs and NESPs

For those not familiar with these terms, these are UnFinished Objects and Not Even Started Projects. The latter can also be called PSIH, Projects Stuck in Head.

As I am sure many readers have noticed, I haven’t been posting informational post as much as I was. This is because there are too many projects stuck in my head and floating about that coherent thought is not working its way out of my fingers well at all.

UFOs:

  • Numerous straw pieces
  • The very important out line someone is waiting for
  • The PITA shell sewing case 2016-03-28-17.47.16.jpg.jpeg
  • Cali’s sewing box 2016-04-03-13.32.02-1.jpg.jpeg
  • The secret velvet project
  • Cali’s time travel dress
  • Pincushion experiment cushions
  • Multiple pieces to the mega project

NESPs/PSIHs:

  • My daisy hat
  • My bandbox sewing box (Don’t even have the box)
  • The spool wagons with directions
  • Tiny wooden pincushion 2016-04-16-10.58.37-1.jpg.jpeg
  • Cali’s sewing tools
  • Additional heads (have linen, need wood and batting)
  • Clara’s hammock
  • Multiple pieces to the mega project
  • Long Regency stays
  • Mae’s necklace (need the tiny cameo setting)
Published in: on April 22, 2016 at 6:00 am  Comments (3)  

Today’s Millinery – Fancy Plait Soft Crown

Happy Spring!!! As today is the first day it has truly felt like spring, I am happy to offer the my first straw bonnet of the season.

This fancy straw plait soft crown is a one of a kind. The fancy plait is an artisan plait called “batwing”. It is a beautiful reflection of historic straw plaiting.

The soft crown and bavolet are a 100% silk taffeta plaid in blues, yellow and white. The crown is lined with 100% cotton voile. The bavolet is lined with 100% cotton net. Inside is a frill of 100% silk organza and white organza flowers. The ribbon is a luxurious double face satin in deep blue. The functional ties are 100% cotton sateen.

The straw is wired around the brim and back. As always, my straw is entirely hand sewn. The bavolet does have some machine sewing to get a nice crisp line.

Look for it in my Etsy shop.

 

Materials notes as requested:
There are additional photos of the bonnet on the blog post for this piece. https://annaworden.wordpress.com/2016/04/16/todays-millinery-fancy-plait-soft-crown/
The straw plait is a hand plaited artisan plait called batwing.
The blue and yellow taffeta is 100% silk.
The ribbons are Hyman Handler double faced satin.
The flowers are organza, but not silk as it is nearly impossible to get true silk flowers now.

Published in: on April 16, 2016 at 7:31 pm  Comments (1)  

Millinery in Process – Fancy Plait Soft Crown

What happens when I find an Amazing artisan crafted fancy straw plait? I make a soft crown bonnet of course.

This straw is fabulous to work with. The straw artist calls this a “batwing” plait. It is a modern name, while the design is very suitable to historic millinery. It is such a pretty color too.

Originally, I was going to make the crown and bavolet in an ivory windowpane taffeta. But, it seems I imagined that silk into my stash. Instead, I find this pretty blue and yellow plaid to compliment the straw nicely. The colors are light enough to not over power the straw.

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I’ll add photos as I work. (around nursing a recovering feline assistant.) When finished, it will be available in my Etsy shop.

In the meantime, here are a few of the soft crown bonnets I previously made.

Want to know more about soft crowns? Here are a few previous posts.

Published in: on April 14, 2016 at 7:00 am  Leave a Comment  

Today’s Millinery

Here is the earliest straw form I’ve made, yet. This hat was inspired by 1760s-1780s paintings. (see below) I just love how the straw curves on this hat. With the back of the brim flipped up and the front dipping just so, it is incredibly well balance. I’ve been wearing it back and forth to the sewing room. Okay, I am wearing it while I type. I lined it with a great champagne 100% silk taffeta with a great crisp crunch. It is ready for you to add your ribbons appropriately. Look for it in my Etsy Shop.

 

 

http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2015/dillee-dynastie-experts-collectionneurs-pf1541/lot.119.html

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O82022/portrait-of-an-unknown-woman-portrait-miniature-engleheart-george/

http://mintwiki.pbworks.com/w/page/38691834/Fashionable%20Silhouettes:%20Selections%20from%20The%20Mint%20Museum%20Collection

http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/gallerie-des-modes-et-costumes-fran%C3%A7ais-7e-cahier-des-costumes-ffran%C3%A7ais-1ere-suite-dhabillemens-de-femmes-%C3%A0-la-mode-g40-duplicate-femme-de-qualite-en-deshabill%C3%A9-se-promenade-le-matin-%C3%A0-la-campagne-312577

http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details/collection_image_gallery.aspx?assetId=1020201001&objectId=3365199&partId=1

 

 

 

Now, I really have to make this one as well….

https://www.indiana.edu/~iuam/provenance/view.php?id=671

 

Published in: on April 12, 2016 at 8:26 pm  Leave a Comment  

Sit On This

Okay. I’ve been having a cranky day. Button pushed.

Please for the love of artistic lines and historic timelines, Stop Sitting on That!!!!

Stop sitting on hard to find originals!

Stop sitting on chairs 50 to 100 years out of date!

Yes, folding chairs are fabulous. They also have very particular timelines and uses. Please, take a look at the folding chair articles I’ve done over the years. (Please, do not ask me to appraise your chair.)

2016-04-12-11.11.21-1.jpg.jpegRegardless of how fabulously easy folding can be, the reality is the Vast majority of civilians did not own folding chairs during the war. When they were manufactured for civilian use, they were for parlors, nice parlors, initially.

Consider a regular chair. Regular chairs are sturdy, strong, better for you buttocks, back and knees. Turned upside down, they can carry/pack things inside the legs.

Also, keep in mind where you are interpreting. If you are in a home or shop, there are chairs appropriate for each room. Your parlor chair won’t be in your kitchen, nor will your kitchen chair be in your parlor. If you are a refugee,  out an about in, oh, say a camp, you are not going to have the best chair from your parlor or kitchen.

I am starting a PinBoard for everyday chairs that you may be able to find reasonable reproductions or revivals of.

An easy to follow furniture guide: click here.

 

Published in: on April 12, 2016 at 12:05 pm  Comments (5)  

Today’s Millinery

Today’s hat is a large mid-19th century fashion hat with a low crown and sloping brim.

This hat, with a 20.5″ interior, will suit a larger head or with a full lining, an average size head. It can be dressed up with a ribbon, flowers or a feather. Look for it in my Etsy shop.

Published in: on April 10, 2016 at 10:04 am  Leave a Comment  

For 140th’s Civilian Seminar – April 9, 2016

A Practical Look At Sewing Cases

Sewing at home

The paintings and prints we looked at are saved on this “140th NYVI Civilian Seminar – Paintings” Pinterest Board. The examples of sewing boxes, cases, baskets, tools, etc. can be found on this “140th NYVI Civilian Seminar – Examples” Pinterest Board

It is important to look at examples prior to 1860 because these are the sewing boxes we would have grown up with seeing our mothers and grandmothers use; these are those we would have used in our teens and twenties. We wouldn’t always have a brand new sewing box from the 1850s or 60s; we may have had a box from the 1830s that we have used for many years. In some instances, children had their own sewing cases.Boxes can be simple or quite ornate, or somewhere in between.

At home, some women would have a sewing stand, also known as a work table. This feels more like a piece of furniture for many of us in the twenty-first century. As sewing stand would have drawers or compartments for sewing tools and thread, while providing a work surface. It may also have a catch/bag for threads and scraps. One fairly well known sewing stand is called a “Martha Washington”. It is important to know that while this type of stand was an earlier, 1810-15 Federal style (therefore functional but not fashionable by the 1850s/60s) some were made in the 20th century as well. (Here is a Shaker sewing stand.)

Sewing on the go

While some of the sewing boxes above may be suitable for travel, many of us want something that will transport easier. This can include smaller boxes, baskets and other sewing cases. Manufactured/purchased sewing cases, aka etui took a variety of shapes, including this one that looks like a book when closed.

For our interpretive purposes, we have several options for mobile sewing:

Making Your Own

Domestically made sewing cases were also known as work pockets and housewifes. They were both structured with pasteboard and soft to be folded or rolled. Some resembled books. Extant examples show they were made with leather, painted canvas, oiled silk, silks, cottons and wools. A work bag was also a good option. (Earlier example)

 

Filling Your Box

What you might want inside…..

Thread winder – Assorted thread winders –  Assorted thread winders –   Wood thread winders

Spools –  original wood spools –  Original wood spoolsoriginal MOP spools,

Scissors – Scissors at the METTailor Shears

Bodkin – It seems the basic style of a metal and bone bodkins go back centuries. – a copper alloy 1600 examplea 1600s exampleA 1600s bodkin

Awl/stiletto – Original bone stiletto3 stilettos (and other tools) from Historic New England

Crochet hooks and Tambour Needles – Original tambour needle

Tape Measures – It seems original tapes are silk, linen and wool. I see some that are hand inked and some that appear to be printed (purchased that way) – an assortment of original measures

Thimbles – 19th century thimbles at the MET

Needles and what holds them – Original needle caseOriginal needle caseLots of paper needle packets

Small tin or pasteboard boxes – for pins, buttons, beads, what-not –

Wax and Waxers – Original MOP waxer, – Original silver waxerlater berry waxer

Other sewing tools: Bell gauge for measuring needles

 

Where to find reproduction sewing tools:

Resources and Printables:

 

Additional Readings:

—————————————

ADDED: Since several people mentioned they want to make their own sewing work box now, I thought I would add some online options.

Published in: on April 9, 2016 at 1:00 am  Comments (1)  

A Week of Sewing Cases 4

2016-04-03-13.31.04-1.jpg.jpegWhen laying out the sewing cases, boxes and bags, I knew I didn’t have a bandbox example of my own to show. Here is a really great example of a bandbox sewing kit. I’ve wanted one, but, haven’t had the time to find or make my own bandbox. While it would take a while to make my own, it wouldn’t take long to make one for Cali. So began the sewing bandbox, in miniature….

Pasteboard and thread were required for the base. Not having a clue how to shape a 1″ tall by 1 1/2″ wide circle, I grabbed the paper towel roll. (I’ll do better next time.) I quickly learned that pre-pierceing the holes in the thick pasteboard was a must. I think for a first time and a tiny size, this came out okay.

2016-04-03-13.03.27.jpg.jpeg2016-04-03-13.03.52-1.jpg.jpeg

I used the scraps from the sewing box. This marbleized paper sucks up moisture and puckers. This little box does have a few puckers that I wish it didn’t. I do think it will be easier to get the sides to line up nicely on the full size one. The photo is actually twice the size of the 1″ tall box. All in all, it is pretty cute. Cali now has a box of her own. She’ll need tools next. ( have a plan for that.)

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Published in: on April 8, 2016 at 4:00 pm  Comments (2)  

A Week of Sewing Boxes 3

2016-03-28-16.31.15.jpg.jpegAlong with the larger sewing cases, I want to show smaller ones.While ordering some additional tools, I decided to pick up a shell purse to try my hand at one of those cute shell cases.(Ex 1, ex 2, ex 3, )

It couldn’t be that hard.

Wrong.

This will forever be known as the PITA shell.

There were several attempts to glue in velvet and silk linings. None of the attempts worked for me. I was sure tracing around the shell would easily give the right fabric shape. Nope. Nope. I then opted to try to fill it with wool batting that would then be covered with the velvet and edged with soutache. I’ve gone as far as the velvet. I don’t think I’m going to be happy with trying to glue on narrow soutache.

(I really should have done something more like this one, with the bag type pouch and page. The bag fabric would have been so much easier to glue into the shell, while the page could have sewn on)

The shell open.

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The layers of batting…. 2016-03-28-16.31.55.jpg.jpeg

Trying to work the batting into the shell with a felting needle. Not a period technique. Not one that worked anyway.

2016-03-28-17.47.16.jpg.jpeg

Published in: on April 7, 2016 at 11:38 am  Leave a Comment  

“You really must see to your girl…”

Elizabeth Stewart Clark’s recent article, “Why We Blame Helen: Or, What Happens When You Improve” brings a favorite line to mind when, with a great sigh we say “Oh, Helen.”

I know. I can’t help it. My brain works that way.

Okay, I also have visions of an absent minded house-elf thanks to the fact that I am re-listening to the Harry Potter series as my drive-time audiobooks.

The reality is, Liz puts a very true phenomenon in a nice capsule, taking a personal stress many of us feel and letting it rest. In my 20s, I don’t know how many times I had finished a dress just to learn something new about construction.

Another thought Liz’s article brought to mind is what I call my “seasonal sewing syndrome.” For several months, I sew straw millinery. For several months, I sew sewing cases. Let’s just say the sewing techniques are very, very different. When I go from months of sewing with large needles and straw to fine needles on silks and cottons the stitches on the first piece is less than fabulous and ends up in the “blaaaa” box. It is like I have to remind my hands to function the way I need them to.

Published in: on April 7, 2016 at 6:03 am  Comments (3)