The Collar, aka “where I’m stuck”

Okay, folks…. help.
I understand the quilting the layers together part. What I don’t get is how these 4 pieces are sewn together. I figure the top two are sewn together and the bottom two are sewn together at the centers. After that, I’m just puzzled
If I had 4 of the top pieces, that would make more sense to me. But, the directions said to cut 2 and 2. (I should mention there are only little scraps left.)
Help?

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Published in: on June 13, 2013 at 5:23 am  Comments (1)  
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Frock Progress

I am awful about taking project photos. Between forgetting, not liking the unfinished look and low batteries, photos rarely happen.
I was able to snap two photos of areas I like on Dan’s frockcoat:

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I like how these areas are laying. This is a leap forward from the clunkiness in the same area on my first paletot. Now, the “puckering” shows more then I would like. But…. that’s okay. Lots of pressing ahead.

Published in: on June 7, 2013 at 6:28 am  Leave a Comment  

Projects Update

I feel I should have much, much more to report. But, instead I simply have come to a conclusion – I need more time! I either need 1 additional week between now and June 21st, 1 additional day with nothing but sewing to do each week, or school to be finished one week earlier so I can sit home and sew.

That said, I do have some updates.

  • Dan’s frockcoat pattern arrived last week. It has been sized, marked and cut out. I hope to have a good two hours with it tonight. I am very tempted to flat line it as flat lining is what I know. I’m sure that is simply awful.
  • I also have his waistcoat drafted.
  • I’ll be picking up a pair of pants to look at before I cut that fabric. (I really wish I had just a bit more of the blue wool or the plaid wool rather than the heavier off white.
  • I’m mostly done with a surprise sewing project.
  • As a de-stresser, I started a silk feather fan, a Jenny Lind style. That is together and stiffened. It needs to be retrimmed next. Then the blades need to be connected. I still have to decide on embellishments.
  • I was asked if we would be at the museum during the day for the 1812 event. I would love to. This does mean I will need to make a dress for during the day. If I can pull this off, I will. Currently, that is a Big if.
  • I stalled out on a particular bonnet with being stressed over men’s clothing. I need to pick that back up.
  • I am convince little sister must learn to sew. She has yet to try on her cloths. But, she certainly will need some adjustments as well as stays. She also needs some pieces for the kitchen, meaning aprons. She will learn to sew aprons then.
  • Dan has added a bed ticking to the pre-Gettysburg list.
  • Also on the pre-Gettysburg list – Fix his cot, fix his stool & chair, find a box, reconstruct bedroll, repair drawers. This will all happen the week between school and summer school
  • Looking into summer – I have several bonnet requests. I will also need something fashion show worthy for mid-July. Then I will need something ‘watch or help sister cook’ worthy for the beginning of August. (This would be simpler if I hadn’t gained so much weight is such difficult places.)
Published in: on June 4, 2013 at 11:28 am  Leave a Comment  

Fun Fifty’s Bonnet

???????????????????????????????I wrapped up a tremendously enjoyable custom bonnet today. The recipient is truly one of those fun customers that you jump to work for. Together we picked out the flowers and ribbons for this 50s bonnet. The amazing striped ribbon is a vintage piece from Italy. The flowers are a combination of vintage and current done in luscious velvet including the strawberries.

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Thank You, B, for asking me to make this bonnet for you. I hope you enjoy wearing it as much as I enjoyed making it.

Netherfield Ball Dress

Finally, my Netherfield Ball dress is just about finished. It needs closures and some tweeks. But, here it is, today’s work:

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The tweeks include this pucker, wrinkle or what ever you want to call it. Basically, a half inch needs to come out of the length.

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Published in: on May 18, 2013 at 6:07 pm  Comments (3)  

NB Sleeve Option

A Quick question for my Regency friends online today.
I have this striped section of my sari. Should. Try to use it for my sleeves?

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I have the skirt to put toegether and the bodice to do a few things with. I anticipate in the next 2 hours I need to decide on the sleeves. (It is 12:06 Eastern time)
Thoughts???

Published in: on May 18, 2013 at 11:07 am  Comments (1)  

Just a quick post to empty my brain. I managed to get home and proceed to:
– Find all of Dan’s gear for the weekend. It is all, not so neatly piled in the kitchen
– Take apart one of his carpet bags and remake into something more functional. Fyi – Long, wide, shallow framed carpet bags are not very functional.
– Find in above process, the fans I plan to remake, my neckerchiefs and a few other must haves.
– Not find my undersleeves. Where in the world did I pack those?
– Box pleat enough bias for the neckline of the dress. Attached. I’m deciding about a second row.
– Try on said dress finally only to decide the shoulder gathers need to move a half inch in and the waist ones may as well.
– put theribbons & flowers on one bonnet and the ribbon on another. Flowers are assembled for the second, but now I think I may go with the blue instead. (That also means I may want to switch the pink satin for the pink moire. But the rose flowers won’t work with the plaid ribbon the blue flowers were going to go on. I’ll think about that tomorrow. Who knows the other plaid ribbon make change everything.)

Photos are lacking because it is too late.

Published in: on May 16, 2013 at 9:07 pm  Leave a Comment  

Mid-Week Progress and Ponderings

Half-way into the week, there has been a detour, progress and, of course, some ponderings. First the progress (detour included):

  • Tuesday – Assemble & attach sleeves. Put bodice & skirt together (green dress) Detour – food poisoning or food intolerance of undertermined nature
  • Wednesday – Handfinishing on bodice (green dress) – Dress finish. Well, the base of the dress is finished and a make-do collar attached. It needs something. (see below)
  • Thursday – Handfinishing on bodice (green dress). Finish hem. – (Hem done) Adding: Pull all of Dan’s clothes out of closet & dresser. Adding: Fix my cage or starch my corded petticoats.
  • Friday – pack & see Dan off. Finish bonnet to wear. (Hope ribbon arrives.)
  • Satuday – Work on NB dress as much as possible. Draft Dan’s coat & waist coat
  • Sunday – Wear green dress
  • Monday until? – Focus on NB clothes.

Now, the ponderings:

  1. I think this something for the green dress will be pleated bias cut (pinked?) self fabric along the neckline and closure, along the opening of the sleeve or angled and something, maybe circles on the bottom of the skirt. Maybe, eventually a different color silk ribbon as well. Pink?
  2. As I’ve opted for an open sleeve, I should have undersleeves. This is just the chance to wear the undersleeves entered in last fall’s Agricultural Society Fair. The sleeves I haven’t seen since said fair. Where, oh where are you my undersleeves?
  3. I have yet to put together the silver-pearl grey bonnet I intend(ed) to wear for this weekend. Part of that is that I was waiting for my favorite ribbon merchant to return. The other part is I still can’t make up my mind on the ribbon for this bonnet. I was thinking pink then green then pink… Then I saw this nifty red/black/white plaid and thought “OOooo” Of course, that would clash horribly with the green dress and just about every dress I anticipate for this year. Back up option 1 is the slate gray bonnet trimmed in burgandy; option 2 is my white sheer that may or may not still have the flowers attached.
  4. I don’t think I have the right stockings for the Netherfield Ball. Mine are cotton. I lack silk stockings. *pout* I honestly don’t think I’ll get around to getting silk stockings. Trying to be budget sensible while the want of silk calls is such a challenge. 🙂
  5. I do believe I’ve remade Dan’s current carpet bags into a bigger one for him and one for Lily or myself a dozen times in the past week. I have one fabric that will work, assuming it is in the cabinet. What are the chances I’ll stumble upon a fabulous reproduction piece of ingrain carpet in an uber-clean state at a yardsale for ridiculously cheap?

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Dresses always look so blaaa on the hanger. Once the detour is finally back on track, I can put my corset on & try this on.

Published in: on May 15, 2013 at 8:00 pm  Comments (2)  

Green Dress Progress

As almost all of my other dresses have a name, this poor green dress needs a name. Nothing has come to me yet. As I have a rather looming deadline and lots of odds and ends popping up, I’m trying to keep myself on track. Taking a look at the plan I set last week, this is where I am at:

  • Wednesday – Assemble green skirt (make Dan’s book if possible) Skirt assembled, set, hem faced at 10 pm. :) Didn’t get to Dan’s book :(
  • Thursday – Cut out green bodice and NB bodice.  Cut out Green bodice & NB bodice. Assembled green bodice.
  • Friday/Sat/Sun – Get Dan to stand still so I can drape his coat and waist coat. Cut bias. Do what hand work I can. I managed to get some of the handwork done on the bodice as Dan fell asleep Friday evening. The gathers at the waist were shifted out while the gathers at the neckline were shifted in. This is dead opposite of what I normally do. So, this may or may not stay as is. I did not get Dan to stand for draping. It seems like every minute of the weekend was full. I did however, get his book made. It does not look like what I had pictured in my head. He likes it though. I broke a few needles and bent another. Not the easiest leather to work with. (The little bags he wants may have to be done by machine with the walking foot.)
  • Monday – Assemble green bodice. Decide on sleeves. – I decided to go with a one piece, open sleeve with a hint of curve, set on the bias. These are now in place. I do find it easier and neater to set sleeves by hand. This is good since sewing the leather last night threw the tension off again on the Bernina. I have to Not sew leather or carpet on that machine ever again. These must be done by hand or maybe with the Pfaff when she’s oiled up & has some tlc. I’ll put a photo of the bodice below. While I don’t think I’ll trim it before this wekend, I also have a photo of possible placement on the sleeve. There are several trimming option floating in my head. I still haven’t draped Dan. It turns out the random piece of muslin I picked up from Bits & Pieces turns out to be a nice heavy, wide piece that will be a quild back instead of toile scraps.
  • Tuesday – Assemble & attach sleeves. Put bodice & skirt together (green dress)Adding: Pull all of Dan’s clothes out of closet & dresser.
  • Wednesday – Handfinishing on bodice (green dress) Adding: Fix my cage or starch my corded petticoats.
  • Thursday – Handfinishing on bodice (green dress). Finish hem. – (Hem done
  • Friday – pack & see Dan off. Last minute finishings. Finish bonnet to wear. (Hope ribbon arrives.)
  • Satuday – Work on NB dress as much as possible. Draft Dan’s coat & waist coat
  • Sunday – Wear green dress
  • Monday until? – Focus on NB clothes.

 
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Published in: on May 13, 2013 at 8:00 pm  Comments (5)  

Pair of Hats

Up until this year, I stuck firmly in the mid-century for straw millinery. When Bevin suggested I give the 80s and 90s a try I soon became ‘wowed’ by the shapes of the 80s. Talk about an era of amazing lines, shape, curve, height. What fun. I can’t wait to do more.

Finally, I get to show you the pair of hats as they were worn in the Genesee Country Village’s Mother’s Day fashion show. I did the straw forms of fine hemp plait. Each one is hand sewn, wired and blocked freehand. Bevin had the fun of doing the feathers. (Now, the photos aren’t the best as I need to check the camera’s settings.)

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