Reintroducing Myself

If you’ve been following me for a while, Thank you!

If you’ve found your way here recently, Welcome!

Some of you may have discovered my work through social media or because of the upcoming Little House on the Prairie series, for which I had the privilege of creating hand-sewn straw hats and bonnets. However you arrived, I’m glad you’re here.

Black and white photos of Anna standing in front of a mirror.

I’m Anna Worden, a historical milliner, researcher, writer, and lifelong student of nineteenth-century women’s work.

This blog has been my online workshop since 2009, when my original website became obsolete. Over the years it has grown into a place where I share research, projects, discoveries, and occasionally the winding path of life. Those who have been reading since the beginning know it has been quite the path. With so many new faces stopping by, it seems like the perfect time to reintroduce myself.

Anna as a pre-teen dressed for the Independence Day parade at GCVM.

My journey into history began long before I ever picked up a straw braid.

Black and white photo of Grandma standing on the steps of MacArthur House at GCVM.

I grew up in surrounded by antiques. When I was eleven years old, I began volunteering at Genesee Country Village & Museum, where my Grandmother worked for 27 years. While many children spent their weekends elsewhere, I was happiest wandering museums, exploring antique shops with my grandparents, and wondering about the people who had made and used the objects I found. Looking back, the seeds of what I do today were already there. During college, I worked at the John L. Wehle Gallery of Wildlife & Sporting Art while becoming involved in living history and reenacting. Like many reenactors, I quickly discovered that building a period wardrobe could be expensive.

So, I learned to sew…. the 19th-century way.

What began as a practicality soon became a passion.

I became comfortable in creating the layers of clothing, but knew it wasn’t quite my niche. I began to explore accessories including millinery and soon discovered a reverence for straw. Straw fascinated me. Each piece was built by layers of straw building beautiful lines and curves. Working with it, straw just felt right in-hand with the rhythm of the stitch and the smell calming me… and connecting me.

The more original bonnets I studied, the more determined I became to understand how nineteenth-century milliners achieved those  curves and proportions. I wanted my work to reflect not only the appearance of the originals but also the methods behind them.

That desire has shaped my work ever since.

Anna in a red plaid dress looking at two straw bonnets she made during a summer interpretation of women's work in a millinery shop.

Today I continue to work primarily with historically appropriate wheat and rye straw plait whenever possible. I study surviving hats and bonnets, antique millinery blocks, trade publications, women’s magazines, photographs, and original tools, always looking for another clue about how these pieces were designed and made. Every original object teaches me something new.

Photo of Anna in a green and while plaid semi-sheer dress signing a copy of Fanciful Utility.

Around the same time that I discovered straw millinery, I also found a pair of Victorian sewing cases at a yard sale. These pieces became the foundation for my book Fanciful Utility years later. I couldn’t have known then that those humble objects would spark another decades-long fascination.

What began with those sewing cases grew into a love of Victorian fancy work—the small, often overlooked pieces that women stitched for beauty, usefulness, and pleasure. Whether it’s a sewing case, a pincushion, a fabric fruit, or another fanciful creation, I enjoy recreating these objects using original techniques while learning from the women who first made them.

Along the way, I’ve also developed a particular fondness for nineteenth-century winter hoods, a corner of millinery history that is often forgotten due to its utilitarian nature.

People sometimes ask why historical accuracy matters so much to me.

The answer is simple: because the objects themselves tell only part of the story.

A straw bonnet is far more than fashion. It represents fields of wheat and rye, women and children braiding straw, workers bleaching and dyeing it, milliners shaping it into the latest style, and the woman who finally wore it. Every bonnet carries the work of countless hands.

Victorian fancy work tells similar stories. Behind every carefully stitched sewing case or decorative ornament is a woman making something with her own hands—sometimes from scraps, sometimes for necessity, sometimes to share a part of themselves with a loved one.

Those women are why I do this work.

Research and making have never been separate pursuits for me. Every object I recreate helps me better understand an original, and every original object inspires another question to investigate. I don’t think I’ll ever run out of questions, and I hope I never do.

If you’ve been reading this blog for years, thank you for continuing this journey with me. If you’re new, I hope you’ll find something here that sparks your own curiosity.

You’ll find historically accurate straw hats and bonnets, Victorian fancy work, original research, museum visits, antique tools and artifacts, behind-the-scenes projects, and plenty of historical rabbit holes along the way.

Most of all, I hope you’ll come to see these objects not simply as beautiful things from the past, but as evidence of remarkable skill, creativity, and lives well lived. Every braid of straw and every careful stitch is a connection to the women who came before us, and it is a privilege to continue learning from them.


Highlights in Pictures

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Published in: on June 30, 2026 at 6:21 pm  Leave a Comment  

Little House on the Prairie & Straw Hats

Last month, I was excited to share one of my straw hats appeared in the new Little House on the Prairie teaser.

Well……. Little House on the Prairie premieres on next week……. and I am still excited! 😊 🤗

I do not know if one of my pieces will appear or if more will be seen. I hope you will join me in watching on Thursday,  July 9th on Netflix to find out.

Beyond looking for my hats, I hope you watch to see the hard work the entire team has put into the show. I anticipate a strong nod to historical accuracy with the multiple vendors and artisans they resourced. With the photos released, I am hoping for a beautiful love story.

2 Special Ways to Celebrate 🎉

Watch Party hosted by Laura Ingalls Gunn

Laura Ingalls Gunn is hosting a Little House on the Prairie watch party at 7 pm CST (8 pm EST) on July 9th. Special guests will include cast members from the original show, Sara from Ensembles of the Past, as well as myself. To participate, email Laura at decortoadore@hotmail.com. You will need Zoom and/or Teleparty as well as Netflix to participate.  For details, please read Laura’s page.

Anna Hat Watch

While you watch, take a photo of you watching and wearing one of my hats. Share the photo on Facebook or Instagram with the hashtag AnnaHatWatch.

Published in: on June 30, 2026 at 4:30 pm  Leave a Comment  

Switching Gears for Summer

My adrenaline officially crashed at 4 pm today as I walked through the door following the close of school for my 21st year.

While I still have 2 days to wrap up the year, I can officially switch gears to my summer plan, both mentally and physically. 

As you recall from my previous post about summer, my original plans fell apart when I lost my summer position due to contractual verbiage.

I’ve done my best to make lemonade out of lemons. Or, well, maybe I’m making a combination of lemon cookies, lemon cake, and lemonade.  I have pieced together an assortment of paid projects that I hope will get me through the summer. Here is a rundown of my summer plans, including both the paid projects and a few unpaid for fun:

  • I am devoting the next 2 weeks to making hats similar to the hats I hope will be on season 1 of Little House on the Prairie, including 2 special requests. I am hoping to make 6 to 10 hats for people to choose from.
  • July 9th is the premiere of Little House on the Prairie on Netflix. I will be joining Laura Ingalls Gunn for her Watch Party that evening (8pm Eastern, 7pm Central) along with Sara from Ensembles of the Past.
  • I plan to spend July focused on a special project I can not share yet. I will say it is one I am very excited about because it allows me to share another one of my research passions with a wide audience. 
  • Also, in July, I finally get to attend a training focused on research out of Cornell. I am hoping it pulls from or is at least parallel to my FDC training from the late 90s. That program was an intensive 3 months of indepth instruction that I feel is the foundation of how I work with people. (This is a paid training that will work out to about $500)
  • In August, I want to hold a doll tea sale. I have this fun idea of selling an assortment of doll scale tea sets, teacups, and tea miscellany. Much of this will be from my personal collection. Some may be what I find at estate sales between now and then. I really hope it is well received. 
  • The second weekend of August, I am scheduled to demonstrate (volunteer) at a new Heritage Crafts Fair. I am very excited to see this type of event in this region. I’ve wanted one for a long time. (I am a bit concerned about having enough money for the gas even though it is only an hour away.)
  • In the middle of August, I will be back at school doing an abbreviated version of my past summer assignment.  This will give me just under $2,000 (the full summer would have been $6,000).


I think that is a pretty solid pieced together plan bringing me to somewhere around $5,000 of the $8,400 I initially budgeted for the summer. Somewhere in there, I also want to make items to put in my Etsy shop and get some writing time.. Somewhere in there, I also want to make items to put in my Etsy shop and get some writing time.

As I said in my other post, I hate asking, but I would greatly appreciate anyone who joins my Patreon or drops tip in my Ko-Fi.

Published in: on June 26, 2026 at 6:35 pm  Leave a Comment  

Summer of 2026

I absolutely hate that I am posting this.

I just found out I do not have the summer position I have come to rely on.

This 6-week position may not seem like much to some. To me, it works out to about $6,000 and is how I pay my rent and bills for the summer into September.  The thought of not having this money, not being able to pay rent, has me shaking upset and nauseous. 

If you have ever considered supporting me through Patreon, now would be a very much appreciated time.

I also created a Ko-Fi for tipping. This is something I’d been told to do many times before and am now doing out of panic.

I am trying really hard not to panic and retreat to “survival mode” because I’ve been putting so much effort into shifting to “living mode” this year.

I am going to look for another position elsewhere. I fear that what is left elsewhere will be at a fraction of my current pay rate.

I would love to say I could sew & sell enough in millinery to get through. $4,000 in sales each month is practically impossible, working out to be 8 hats a week, or 96 hours of sewing.

(For those who don’t know, I work for a school district.  This means I only work September through June, leaving a pay gap from July to the end of September when we get our first paycheck of the school year.)

Published in: on May 28, 2026 at 7:02 am  Leave a Comment  

Anatomy of a Straw Bonnet

Another bonnet essentials repost:

Each of these points are general for fashionable bonnets made of straw, primarily straw plait, from approx 1858 through 1863. Finer points adjust with each season’s prevailing fashion.

General Construction – Straw bonnets were sewn by hand in the round. Plaits ranged from 1/8″ split straw to wider whole straw and fancy plaits. Woven straw was also used.

Anatomy 1

Tip – The back section of the crown in the tip. On a straw bonnet this can either be domed, flattened at the back curving to the side of the crown. It should not have a sharp angular transition from the back to the sides.

Crown – The crown of a straw bonnet should create a smooth transition from the crown to the brim. Much of the shaping in the bonnet will be created in this transition area.

Brim – The brim of a straw bonnet will vary according to fashion. The brim’s edge should be a single or double row of straw plait. It should not have raw edges needing to be bound.

Cheek-tabs – The cheek-tabs should have a gentle curve coming from the neck edge of the crown along the side of the bonnet dropping down to roughly your jaw line meeting the brim edge. This is a graceful line, not a straight edge or angular transition. There is a variation in the twist of the cheek-tab from the fifties into the sixties. The cheek-tab is part of what helps hold a bonnet in place.

Binding – The binding on a straw bonnet should be straw plait. Raw edges were covered on the exterior and sometimes the interior along the back of the cheektabs, sides and tip. Multiple rows were used as well.

Lining – A lining is a functional layer of light weight, open-weave cotton covering most of the interior of the bonnet. It aids in keeping the straw from snagging the hair while worn. The lining can not be seen when the bonnet is worn.

Frill/Cap/Ruche –This decorative layer of gathered cotton or silk  covers fills the inside of the brim. This is very fine most often net, lace or organza. The full frill aides in holding the bonnet in place.

Facing – Some bonnets have a facing of silk from the edge of the brim through the first couple inches of the interior brim.

Bavolet/Curtain – The bavolet is attached to the binding edge on a straw bonnet along the sides and crown. This silk piece should be lined with net to give it more body. The bavolet may be a single piece of fabric, most often on the bias and occasionally on the grain, or pieced from bias cuts of ribbon. The bavolet may also be decorated.

Functional Ties – The functional ties are attached to the interior of the cheek-tabs or under the decorative ties. These are narrower ribbon to hold the bonnet in place.

Decorative Ties – Decorative ribbons are wide, 3″-8″ based on a wide survey I did years ago. They are on the grain, not bias. Tied, they do not take the support of the bonnet.

Interior Decoration – Interior decoration also helps hold the bonnet in place.

Anatomy 2

Here are a few original bonnets. Take a moment to identify the parts: crown, tip, brim, cheektabs.

Want to learn more? Try:

My Straw Bonnet Workbook

From Field to Fashion

Find the earlier video on Bonnet Stays here: https://youtu.be/gcnLtlDGblk

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Got Perch?

Time to bring back this favorite post, cheesey title and all, plus a few extra comments & photos. Please remember bonnets of this era are meant to perch on your head not lean forward like a sun-visor. In this sharing, I would alos like you to notice the proportion of bonnet to head. These bonnets are not overwhelming or swallowing up the head of the wearer. They are proportionally framing the face/head.


A CDV recently appeared that brought up how women wore their bonnets perched on the backs of their heads from 58ish to 63/4ish. Here is a close-up:

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See how the bonnet sit further back on her head? Her interior flowers land almost at her mid-line.

A few more examples of original perch:

The question I am hearing is “how did they do that?’
There as a few aspects that help:
– A bonnet stay. This is a ribbon, strip or even wire inside the bonnet, positioned to act like a headband holding the bonnet in place. (These need to be fitted to the wearer.)
– The frill and interior decoration. The placement and fullness of these act like a catch or a band to help hold the bonnet.
– Balance. The front to back balance of the bonnet needs to put more weight in the brim and forward crown area of the bonnet rather than the back.
The placement of the hair can also be a contributing factor.

This is my first straw bonnet, years & years ago. (Make that decades now.) While it has some early issues, it shows what a stay can do. These photos were taken after a parade marching into 40 mph winds that ended in a hail storm. During this walk, the force of the winds actually snapped a bone in my cage. But, the bonnet stayed put.

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Here is Lily in the same bonnet. It sits further back on her. But, stays pretty well. (It finally got to retire after this.)

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This next bonnet is a different shape, drawn. Instead of a stay, it holds put thanks to the frill and flowers. The frill is gathered like ruching in this one. The back edge sorta stands fluffed, holding against my hair. (Yup, newer phone camera resolution is notably better than cameras were at the turn of the century.)

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Same bonnet several years and pounds later.

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2013ish drawn bonnet. I think you can see the position of this one. This stays with the work of the frill and my hair.

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Here is how I often wear my hair:

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Now, Lily’s bonnet from last year does need a stay as she does have some issue with I staying put. Granted, se is also showing kids how o play with games including stilts much of the time. She also has far better posture than I do. Now that I think about it more, she has less hair in the back too.

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Here is a photo of both of us from last month with the same two bonnets. (different ribbon on mine) This shows the fullness of the frill pretty well.

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Betsy Connolly sent me some beautiful photos showing excellent perch. (The photos are so pretty, I’m not going to crop them.) She says some have stays, some do not. She agrees that staying put is about balance.

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Here is Lisa Springstube Lindsey in a mourning bonnet with the full frill helping hold it and a Marie Stuart:

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Here is Beth Chamberlain with two good examples:

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If you have a good ‘perch’ photo & would like to share it, please let me know (I think if you link it in the comments, I can grab it. Otherwise, email or message me.)

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Published in: on May 18, 2026 at 8:28 pm  Leave a Comment  

Little House on the Prairie

If you would have told me a year ago if I would be making an announcement like this, I wouldn’t have believed it.

I am very excited to share that this summer, my straw millinery will be seen in the new

Little House on the Prairie!!!!!

Season 1, premiering July 9th on Netflix, will feature at least one of my straw hats. You can get a peek at one of my at the 17 second mark in the second teaser video:

Published in: on May 15, 2026 at 6:16 pm  Comments (3)  

Where are all the hats & bonnets

The good news is: I am in the midst of a special millinery project that will consume my time through April and May. While I am excited to share what this project is, I  can not at the moment. I will as soon as I am able.

The bad news is: I will not be able to add hats & bonnets to my Etsy shop for several weeks. I plan to resume regular shop drops in June with an assortment of pieces.

If you are going to Market Fair, you are in luck! Bevin will be there with an assortment of my Bergères. I welcome you to take this opportunity to see my work in person.

Published in: on April 18, 2026 at 8:45 am  Leave a Comment  

What does it take to create a historically accurate straw bonnet or hat?

What does it take to create a historically accurate straw bonnet or hat?


I suspect each historical milliner and costumer will answer this question differently.


For me, creating a historically accurate straw bonnet or hat form comes down to three things:
~ An understanding of shape
~ Accurate (available) materials
~ Period techniques

Of course, I would like to include solid research as a foundation.

Shape

Each style of straw millinery throughout the nineteenth-century, be it hat or bonnet, has a particular shape. Often, this shape is an evolution from a previous shape into the next shape. A brim might rise or recede. Cheektabs may narrow or extend. A crown may lift or flatten. The change in shape creates a fluid transition from one style to another.

I find when working with straw plait by hand, the shifts in shape in one area of a bonnet or hat
to be directly connected to the changes in another. Each row of plait influences the next as it is influenced by the one before. Tension. Pressure. Pressure. All coaxing curve, height, or depth into place.

Because of this, I see the fluid transition from one shape into the next, one style into the next to be interconnected with the straw itself.

Materials

This, of course, brings us to materials. The core material of a straw bonnet or hat being straw. It is nearly impossible to get the amazing straw plaits used in the nineteenth century today. When taking into account their straw, width, thickness, fine plaiting, even the most common base plait simply does not exist. This is without even considering the fancier plaits available at the time.

When looking at the straw plait currently available, variety still exists. I can tell you what is available today in 2026 is different than what was available in 2016. Both whole plait and split plait were in use in the 19th century, with split plait being more common. Today, whole plait is the norm as split plait needs to be worked by hand. Most straw plait is now made with a straw plaiting machine either in China or Italy. These machines use whole straws rather than split straws (literally a straw split into smaller, finer pieces). This means, in general, plait is thicker than split plait 200 years ago. Whole straw plait is also tougher to work with, meaning it has more body requiring more tension from the hands to manipulate. Even the narrowest 4mm whole plait has more body than its split plait counterpart.

The advantage of whole plait is its strength, durability, and longevity.Whole plait paired with full wiring and water soluble sizing can create a bonnet or hat that will last for a decade or more. It can be re-trimmed, reshaped, and repaired all while maintaining historical accuracy.

Period Techniques

Prior to the introduction of the straw sewing machine, straw plait was sewn by hand. Stitches were short on the outside, long on the inside. Sewing a bonnet or hat by hand allowed time for shapes to be created through manipulating the straw plait. The hand control in sewing process created the piece’s shape while the millinery block guided the shape as a pattern would, then solidified the shape in the blocking/sizing process. I find this encouraged the changes in shape we see from the beginning of the century through the 1860s.

As the 1860s closed, the straw sewing machine was introduced to the process, beginning with binding. From this point on, the detail of shape shifts from being a partnership between hands and straw to reliance on the millinery block as mold.

For me, historical accuracy in straw millinery is a melding of knowledge of shape, materials, and technique. By understanding how nineteenth-century milliners worked with their materials rather than against them and the techniques they used, an understanding of the fashionable shapes naturally develops.

It is very important to me that people have the knowledge to make informed decisions about their millinery.  Historically accurate bonnets & hats are expensive. I myself have never been in a financial position to purchase. This is why I had to learn to make my own. I would love to be able to gift everyone a free copy of my Straw Bonnet Workbook & From Field to Fashion.  But, I can not afford to. Instead, I’ve decided to offer it half price this month. My hope is people will read it and make informed decisions about their purchases or try their hand at their own.

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Published in: on April 10, 2026 at 4:11 pm  Leave a Comment  

A Eureka Moment

Driving into work the other morning, I was thinking about late 1860s hats when it occurred to me I hadn’t tried the late 1860s fanchon since acquiring the mid-1860s bonnet blocks. These bonnets, sometimes called “half bonnets” in museum collections, have been something of an enigma since I started working with straw. They are an odd, sorta two-sided, sorta three-sided shape that cups the back top of the head. In straw, they are often this base shape, or a variation of this base shape, with a plain plait or decorative plait wrapping around the edge. It is entirely possible, more likely probable, that many of these were cut down from straw bonnets of previous seasons as the styles shrunk.

Examples of late 1860s fanchon “half bonnets” from the MET and MFA collections. (Screen shot of one of my phone folders.)

This brings me back to my original millinery blocks.

Visually,  when the outer rows of plait are removed from these little bonnets, the core base shape is quite similar to the crown shape on this fanchon bonnet block from the mid-1860s.

It was a eureka moment.

It took a couple days before I finally had time to pull that shape from this block and sit down to work with it.

It was very tempting to create most of an earlier bonnet to see if I could cut this shape from it. I refrained because I didn’t want to waste the straw.

I am pleased with the result.

I have some fine tuning in mind for the next one. I’d like to push the center front forward a bit more. I started to on this one but pulled back not wanting too much of a triangle look. I may also try to flare the front edge a bit.

In the process, I found something important: The shape worked in straw cups the curve of the back of the head. The curve lands perfectly on my smaller head. For me, there is a significant difference between this shape and the flat shape I see reflected in other attempts at this bonnet.

I edged this bonnet first with plain plait, then with a fancy, two-tone decorative braid worked on a “loom” recently made for me. I really like the look.

Sadly, this is one of those styles that is hard to photograph. 

The good news, that is also the bad news:

I will be posting this bonnet in my Etsy shop Sunday evening at 6:00 Eastern Time.

This bonnet will be the last of my semi-weekly millinery shop drops for a couple months. I am wrapping up one special project and rolling into a large special project. This project will take nearly every minute of the next two months.

I don’t have the green light to share what that project is yet. But, I will say it is one I am excited about. I think you will be excited as well.


Adding some additional information on fanchon bonnets:

Published in: on April 4, 2026 at 10:08 am  Comments (1)