This month’s Patreon Pocket of the Month is an embroidered dogwood design.
18th Century, Regency Era, 1850s, 1860s, & 1880s Victorian….
It isn’t often that I have pieces for each of these eras in my shop at the same time. Today, I do.
I just added this two tone fashion hat for the Civil War era. The tapered crown on this 1860s hat is a pale wheat, while the outer band of the brim is a deeper golden color.
Yesterday, I finished and listed my fourth bergère hat. This one has a double braided plait around the edge of the brim.
For the 1880s, I have this wide brimmed, tapered crown hat.
For the 1850s, I have this striped, two tone bonnet.
For the Regency era, I have two beehive style bonnets. (Currently on sale)
Spring Fashion & Textile Symposium
Today, I attended the Spring Fashion & Textile Symposium ay the Genesee Country Village and Museum. This was the third bi-annual fashion symposium.
Curator Brandon Brooks offered a captivating story of Hawaiian Kapa cloth, inspired by a dress in the RMSC collection. Brandon’s talks are always enjoyable. This time, I was so intrigued by how the fibers from a tree were pounded into cloth that I stopped taking notes.
The second speakers was Nellie Ludemann from the Seneca Falls Historical Society. (Nellie was one of the speakers at the Story of Fashion Symposium last Fall.) She spoke about the knitting mill in Seneca Falls, the longest running textile mill in New York. As an employer that hired predominantly women through most of the 20th century, I plan to follow future research. (The mill is now the home of the National Women’s Rights Hall of Fame.)
Lunch brought one of my favorite parts of these symposia: meeting new people. (Psst, I have a particular table I sit at, and see who sits down.) This lunch evolved into a fascinating discussion of math in fiber arts. I suspect if one of us didn’t check the time, we could have carried on exploring the discussion for another hour.
The first speaker after lunch was Angela from Burnley and Trowbridge. She presented part of her ongoing research based on a token book, a log of children that included swatches of their (or their parent’s) clothing for identification purposes. This hour was packed with so much information.
The final presentation of the day was from Rabbit Goody of Thistle Hill Weavers. She took us on a journey through some of her experiences producing and reproducing textiles for sites, cinema, and theater.
The keynote for the Fall Symposium was announced at the end of the sessions. It is someone I know many will be excited to see. 😉
My Second Bergère Hat
Love how this bergère hat came out. This is one of the designs that became stuck in my head while looking at extant hats and later in an allergen/Benadryl fog. I sewed through Saturday and Sunday to complete it. It is currently in my Etsy shop.
I worked a fine straw plait over the outer brim in a zigzag. Looped fine plait encircles the crown.
I like how the different straw plaits play against each other, the texture and color of the two natural straws.
This bergère measures 13.5″ in diameter now that it is dry. The crown is just under 5″ across. I did not wire this brim. Though, it could easily be wired.
My First Bergère Hat
After many years of being asked to make 17th and 18th century bergère hats, I have finally made one.
Why did I put off making this style? It came down to two factors: Shipping the brim size and sewing the brim size while keeping it flat.
While making 1850s hats with larger brims, I discovered 2 things: First, A certain library occasionally 14x14x6 inch boxes I can reuse. Second, I can shop said box with a hat for $18-$20 with insurance. This is notably better than the $40-$60+ for shipping large 1800-1830s bonnets; the price of which makes me cringe.
Last weekend, I was asked again about a 1770s bergère hat. This time, I decided to add it to my list, knowing I could fit a 14″ one in a box.
Since then, I started a spreadsheet of extant bergère with what measurements are available to check diameters of brim and crown. In doing so, I noted the types of straw used and couldn’t help notice the straw embellishments. (I know another milliner has been recreating some straw embroidery beautifully.) The loops and figures around the crown and brim caught my eye.
Ideas started churning.
Now, I have several bergère in my imaginations that need to become a reality.
This first bergère hat began at the beginning of the week. Upon reaching the end of the hank, it asked for an artisan edge.
The brim is 14″ across, on the smaller side of bergère hats yet nearly the maximum my countertop can handle. The crown is 5″ across and less than 1″ deep. I did not wire the edge of this brim knowing these brims are often worn curved and tied under the coiffure. This lack of wire feels odd and incomplete to me as I wire the vast majority of my other pieces. (I could wire future brims and shape them to hold an up turned back.)
This particular hat is first being offered to the person who inquired last weekend. If it does not match her needs, it will be available in my shop. I currently have 2 boxes for this size hat. I happen to have 1 more bergère started.
Please do tell me your thoughts about this style. Depending on the response, I will see to acquiring (purchasing) additional boxes. (I find I can ship a 16x16x4 box for the same price. I should be able to do this size brim on my counter. )
End of April Sale
I put 4 pieces of millinery and two trios of Clara’s Corner Bookmarks on sale for the end of the month. I really want to see people enjoy these pieces.
Wibbly Wobbly Time & Stuff
As I was headed out the door this morning, I noticed the level of chill in the air and realized my sense of time of year is still off. Locally, parts of winter felt like spring, completely throwing off my seasonally sensitive internal clock. Now that wet spring is here, the norm of chilly mornings followed by warm afternoons feels off. I even felt it driving home in the sun yesterday. To top off my timey wimey state, I found I have been a full week off in my planner. Good thing I’ve been using pencil.
With all of this time and space scattering here and there, I feel the need to put together a summary of the bits and pieces I’ve been working on lately….
New Short Videos
I recently added a TikTok account. With this, I have created a few reels. I added some to YouTube.
Book Study
A little bit ago, I started reading articles by Susan Ingalls Lewis who looks at the history of women, business, and employment in the nineteenth-century. Upon starting her book Unexceptional Women: Female Proprietors in Mid Nineteenth-Century Albany, New York, 1830-1885, I thought others would be interested in reading it as well. I started a book study group on Facebook. Currently, there isn’t much discussion in the group. I do hope that picks up as I find her research journey and work both fascinating and important to giving everyday women a voice. (Please let me know if you are interested in participating.)
Pockets
Somehow, I went from not having an April Pocket of the Month designed (because I pre-designed & scheduled several months) to creating 3 for this month. First came the embroidered Sun & Moon Pocket, a freehand design by me. I posted it to Patreon at the beginning of the month, so it would be available in time for people to make it for the Solar Eclipse. The pocket I made with the design got a little TV time, appearing in a local news story. Next, came the actual Pocket of the Month design, a Maze Pocket meant to be quilted or embroidered. This was inspired by the mazes posted in the Time Traveler’s Rabbit Hole. Then, this week, I found myself creating an Owl Pocket as a bonus pocket design. This is another freehand pocket design. It was inspired by what may have been a gag at work with owl faces coming out of the printer sporadically over a few days. I realize these most recent pocket designs have been freehand designs blending period inspiration and modern twists. I will make a point to include some purely historical pockets soon, possibly some patchwork.
Events
Now for more of the thinking ahead part (this has been muffled by projects at work and big grey area.) I think I need to break this down by month.
- May – I will be doing a program for GCVM’s Civil War Living History. I will be moving to the Dressmaker’s Shop. My hope is that I will be able to pull off a good program in the midst of Regents planning and field testing without breaking myself.
- June – June is undecided. I’ve been asked about doing a few things. I am hesitant to commit because I will likely be taking on more additional duties during exams.
- July – This month has multiple programs I am looking forward to, including Independence Day, a women’s clothing program, and a recreational clothing program.
Projects (the self accountability list)
I have several non-millinery projects in various stages, including:
- The silk globes from the Solar Spectacular. I have goals for each of the 4 that are started. I would like them to make a reappearance in October.
- I have slowly been assembling ribbons for a ribbon bag. This will be a bag inspired by an original given to me years ago.
- I keep wanting to make some patchwork cats (or just cushions.)
- I am researching local recreational clothing for a summer program. I have a good idea of what I want to make. I just need to identify which fabric(s) in my collection is the right material(s)
I think that helps for getting a better footing.
Pocket of the Month!
I made 2 pocket designs for April!
Hop over to Patreon to get April’s Pocket of the Month, a maze pocket design. This whimsical design can be quilted or embroidered.
While there, be sure to scroll back to the previous post for my Eclipse themed pocket, a sweet hand drawn sun and moon design.
Eclipsed Reflections
I am sure by now you have heard Western NY was blanketed in cloud cover for the April 8th solar eclipse. While those of us at GCVM’s Solar Eclipse Spectacular and other regional gatherings did not get to put on our glasses to watch the moon pass in front of the sun, we did get to experience the great darkening with a beautiful show of light and color.
The darkening of the Eclipse settled in as I stood between Hyde and Hamilton houses. While I originally planned to view the Eclipse from the village square, I am glad I was able to see the light and color display around the silhouettes of Hyde house and the Hamilton carriage house. My photos and video do not do justice to the dynamic &vibrant colors.
I spent the day in Hosmer’s Inn, a building I very rarely get to do programs in, working on silk globes based on those sewn by students at the West Town School, a Quaker girls’ school in Pennsylvania. These sewn, inked, and embroidered globes were a for girls to learn geography. To my delight, I met two groups of guests familiar with the West Town School, including one guest whose sister taught there.
The silk globes opened a discussion with guests about how girls and women could learn, expand, and express their knowledge through fancy work. We talked about how mathematics and geometry were essential for piece work projects and drafting patterns, and an 1870-1880s genre of fancy work incorporated flora, fauna, and an understanding of ecology.
I spent part of the morning talking with with Adriana Loh of Spectrum News. She created a nice piece on women in science during the nineteenth century: Party Like it’s 1878. This includes an article and video.
The day prior to the event, I switched my wardrobe plans upon reading an article about the colors green and red appearing brighter and darker, respectively, as the eclipse begins. I previously planned to wear my warmer, grey wool dress. Instead, I opted for my summer, wool challis. I am pretty sure excitement & adrenaline were the only things to keep me going until a fire was built.
Despite mother nature’s change in plan, the day seemed to be enjoyed by all. Guests had the opportunity to celebrate with family & friends while exploring the museum. They could participate in a historic look at the eclipse without being overwhelmed by crowds. I found conversations to be rich as visitors connected with little balls of silk.