If I Had My Own Blue Box:

Driving into work the other morning, I was thinking about late 1860s hats when it occurred to me I hadn’t tried the late 1860s fanchon since acquiring the mid-1860s bonnet blocks. These bonnets, sometimes called “half bonnets” in museum collections, have been something of an enigma since I started working with straw. They are an odd, sorta two-sided, sorta three-sided shape that cups the back top of the head. In straw, they are often this base shape, or a variation of this base shape, with a plain plait or decorative plait wrapping around the edge. It is entirely possible, more likely probable, that many of these were cut down from straw bonnets of previous seasons as the styles shrunk.

This brings me back to my original millinery blocks.

Visually,  when the outer rows of plait are removed from these little bonnets, the core base shape is quite similar to the crown shape on this fanchon bonnet block from the mid-1860s.

It was a eureka moment.

It took a couple days before I finally had time to pull that shape from this block and sit down to work with it.

It was very tempting to create most of an earlier bonnet to see if I could cut this shape from it. I refrained because I didn’t want to waste the straw.

I am pleased with the result.

I have some fine tuning in mind for the next one. I’d like to push the center front forward a bit more. I started to on this one but pulled back not wanting too much of a triangle look. I may also try to flare the front edge a bit.

In the process, I found something important: The shape worked in straw cups the curve of the back of the head. The curve lands perfectly on my smaller head. For me, there is a significant difference between this shape and the flat shape I see reflected in other attempts at this bonnet.

I edged this bonnet first with plain plait, then with a fancy, two-tone decorative braid worked on a “loom” recently made for me. I really like the look.

Sadly, this is one of those styles that is hard to photograph. 

The good news, that is also the bad news:

I will be posting this bonnet in my Etsy shop Sunday evening at 6:00 Eastern Time.

This bonnet will be the last of my semi-weekly millinery shop drops for a couple months. I am wrapping up one special project and rolling into a large special project. This project will take nearly every minute of the next two months.

I don’t have the green light to share what that project is yet. But, I will say it is one I am excited about. I think you will be excited as well.

I am very excited to announce I started a new series on Patreon:

Beyond Silk & Straw.

This storytelling series will explore a variety of topics from information about me and how I do things to memories about research, collecting, and events.

I currently have several posts live and scheduled into April, including:

• Where did Fanciful Utility start?
• My First Antique
• Making Something from Nothing – Working from Scraps
• Antiqing with Dad was often taken to a new level
• In the Wild
• Favorite Finds: A Little Box of Joy
• Favorite Finds: My Coffee Table is Not a Table
• Favorite Finds: Don’t Tell A Book By It’s Cover

Alongside this series, I also have a From My Collection series scheduled. Both series are available to all paid Patreon subscribers.

Did you know there are ways to save in my Etsy shop?

Save yourself 10% by using coupon code MYWHIMSEY10

Help me save 6% in shop fees by using the Share & Save link where my shop name comes before Etsy: https://amillinerswhimsy.etsy.com

If you are looking for a way to encourage me as I try to write more while I need to sew less, consider supporting me through Patreon.

Kind of an absurd notion, isn’t it?

I should be 100% angry that Google led me to a popular platform where my Straw Bonnet Workbook was available for anyone to download for free.

But, I’m not.

Or, at least the researcher side, the educator side, the social-historian side is not.

Isn’t the goal afer all the digging, piecing together, exploring, trial & error, examining and reexamining….. to share the discoveries?

Isn’t the ideal to be able to share knowledge freely?

Part of me is happy to know someone found my work interesting enough to think, “other people need to read this.” Someone thought my work useful enough to think.”Other people need to read this.”

Shouldn’t I be happy that someone thought my work should be shared with others?

Wouldn’t it be wonderful if it were as simple as that?

I wish I lived a life where I could freely share all of my work; where I could research to my heart content and share what I write freely, each of my research books, each of my workbooks, each of my patterns. How great would it be to send off a free pattern to every historic site interpreter who needed to make a warm winter hood for themselves? Imagine what it would be like if I could send an accurate straw bonnet to each reennactor wanting to improve their impression. Ask any of my past event assistants whose job it was to stop me from giving too much away at events.

I truly wish I lived a life where I could freely share my work.

But, I don’t.

My work is my livelihood.

My millinery work, including my publications, is a significant portion of my income. It pays for my rent, my utlities, my food. I don’t live an extravagant life. If you ask my friends and colleagues, they will likely tell you I don’t even live an average life in terms of expenses. When I cut expenses because I don’t meet my sales goals, I am cutting my groceries, allergen free soap or moisturizer, or other things many would consider essential needs.

So, while part of me is elated someone wanted to share my work for free with the world. Another part of me is sad that I can not.

Instead, I speed sew through the weekends despite my hands hurting and needing to rest. I put aside my personal goals to make another hat for the shop. I push off going for a much needed walk so I can sew just a few more hours. I have bedtime panics about paying bills and spending hours trying to think about how I can write faster, sew faster, and promote my work more.

So, while part of me is elated, someone wanted to share my work for free. Another part of me is angry that I have to work so hard just to keep my head above water.

Thanks for listening.

(Not bad for typing in the dark.)

I am rather upset as I write this. Please bare with me. I just found one of my publications uploaded to a public site, available for free without my consent.

All of my publications—print and digital—are copyrighted.

Any versions of my e-books, e-workbooks, or e-patterns offered for free or for sale on platforms other than my Etsy shop or my Patreon are not authorized and did not come from me.

These unauthorized copies violate my intellectual property rights, undermine my work, and take income directly from a small, independent maker. I put years of research, labor, and care into what I create, and this work is how I support myself.

If you want to support my work, please purchase or access it only through my official channels. I’m grateful to those of you who already do.

If you come across my work being shared or sold elsewhere, please know that it is unethical and unlawful. The only legitimate ways to purchase or access my digital publications are through my official shops.

Thank you to everyone who supports original work and helps ensure artists and researchers can continue creating.

Today is the first shop drop of the month. At 6pm, Eastern Time,  I will be adding a beautiful assortment of Bergère hats. Each is handsewn and blocked using lovely 6mm straw plait. 

This is also my birthday month! I wanted to do something fun. So, I’ve marked all patterns & e-books 25% off.

With the deep freeze and blanket ingredients snow many of us are facing in the coming days, I propose a fun distraction with a Snow Sewing Challenge:

Fleece Blanket Challenge

Step 1 – Grab an inexpensive blanket while you are out sticking up on milk & batteries.

Step 2 – Pick a period pattern from any era in history.

Step 3 – Make the garment or accessory using the fleece blanket.

This challenge is meant to be a bit of fun in the depths of winter. This can also be a way of making a functional garment to stay warm.

Of course, I would love to see some fleece versions of my winter hoods. Other ideas could include: a fleece waist, fleece petticoat, fleece mantle, fleece drawers.

I finished it!

This doll hood is absolutely adorable!

Theo is modeling this darling 1870s hood. Theo is a 16ish inch porcelain doll.

But, don’t worry. This pattern has pieces for a 16″ doll and an 18″ doll.

Link to Pattern in Etsy.

I am excited to announce my newest pattern for 2026 is now available in my Etsy shop!

This 1870s Light Wool Hood Pattern has been a long time coming. This beautiful hood has been in my collection for years patiently waiting its turn.

While my previous hood patterns focused on function, hoods that could keep you warm and/or dry, this hood is more about form.

The person who made this original hood from which I pulled this pattern, was skilled creating a simply beautiful hood. The easy two-piece construction has lovely lines with a flare into the bavolet along with finishing details that are just darling.

With this pattern, you can follow closely to the original wool hood or opt to make a couple variations for a lasting, accurate hood to wear with your 1870s impression.

PS – I plan to have the doll version of this pattern available ASAP

PPS – A couple Saturday morning reflections and thoughts:

I made a couple of variations, including one inch instead of half inch quilted diamonds plus enlarging & flipping the trim design.

The main construction of this hood is pretty quick. It is the quilted lining, hand binding, and bow that take a little time. This could easily be a single week or weekend project. If ordering or looking through your stash, you will want a half yard of the exterior fabric and lining fabric.

The hood is lighter weight compared to hoods I’ve previously patterned. This makes it appropriate for milder winter days as well as fall and spring. To increase the warmth, a double layer of wool batting and a second layer of silk lining could be used.

It is only 8 days into the new year, yet I’ve been busy, busy.

Somehow, I managed to pull off a week’s catch-up work in 2 days for another department while technically on recess.  I’ve been working at double, maybe triple speed this week as we dive into our January crunch time for exams. I’ve still been determined to get this pattern done.

And

It is nearly ready!

If you are on Patreon,  you have access to my proof copy.

Once I am happy with it, and sure I didn’t miss something from staring at a computer screen for 12 hours, I will upload it to Etsy for everyone.

I still need to create the doll version. I have 2 doll sizes drafted. I think I am still on track to have those ready by the end of January for you.