Hood Observations

I should say quilted hood observations focusing on those which are shaped to resemble bonnets as there are so many kinds of winter hoods from the mid-century. You can find soft hoods which drape the head and shoulders, fluffly soft hoods which wrap around the head, shaped hoods which look similar to bonnets, those which are moderately shaped to cover the head and shoulders, and a multitude of combinations. Right now, I’m just looking at those which are shaped like a bonnet. (Yes, forcing myself to focus.)

Lets start with lining. I assumed incorrectly that I would see the majority of the interiors done in silk. As it turns out the vast majority of the linings are cottons. Some are solids, others are prints. Some are polished cottons, others are un-polished.  Here you can see the brown polished cotton on the interior:

Image A - From "The Graceful Lady" site - A black velvet hood trimmed in fur with a polished cotton interior and black silk facing.

  

Shape

The shape of quilted hoods seems to range from mimicing the shape of bonnets right down to the shape of the cheek tabs to roughly suggesting a bonnet shape, more following the shape of the head in order to hug it with widened or shallowed cheek tabs. This green hood from MFA has rather distinctive cheek tabs. This quilted hood has a roughly follows the lines of a bonnet with a shallower brim, fitting closer to the face and cheektabs which are wider:

Image B - From "The Graceful Lady" site - Silk quilted hood with a bonnet-like shape which fits closer to the shape of the head. The turn back is of an accent fabric, as is the piping and binding.

The tips found in extant bonnets include both circular and those with flat bottoms. Someone also shared with me an ‘ugly’ style hood with a tear-drop shape tip.) Image B, above is an example of a tip with a flat bottom to which the bavolet attaches directly. This black silk bonnet from the MET collection is an example of a circular tip.

The bavolets, or curtains, are most often quilted though at times with a lesser fullness or thickness than the body of the hood. The shapes appear to include both straight pieces gathered to fit the neckline as well as curved pieces shaped to the neckline. The fronts of the bavolets appear in hoods both in attached and not attached states. The bavolet in image B is unattached, while those in image A, the green MFA hood and the black MET hood are all attached to the cheek tabs.

Materials

Exterior materials appearing in extant hoods include a variety of weaves of silks, velvets and light weight wools. I have heard word of cotton hoods as well, but have yet to see them in person. The silks include very fine silks to those that may have been considered inferior at the time with varigation in the dye and fiber/thread thickness. Some are woven stripes using taffeta, twill and satin weaves (Image B is a woven stripe). Some are printed fabrics including stripes and floral-stripes. Plaids are also seen. The exterior material is seen both set on the grain and on the bias. I have yet to determine which is more frequent and whether an angle or direction of the bias stripes or plaids is more common than other placements.

Trims

Extant hoods show a number of trims including fabric trims, fur and feathers. In this hood, the facing and possibly the lining is an accent silk set on the bias and turned out acting as a trim. On the green hood from the MFA collection  we see a complimenting, nearly same colored fabric being used as a pleated trim around the brim and bavolet. On the black silk MET hood we see a self fabric trim pleated and placed around the brim, bavolet and tip. This hood also demonstrates the placement of ribbons. On this hood we see where the fur or down trim had encompassed the brim:

Image C - from Ebay - Black silk hood trimmed in fur or down. (currently for sale as of posting)

Wadding and Structure

Inside the hoods, the wadding has included cotton, wool and down. In the above image C, you can see some of the wadding revealed. Thicknesses seem to range from under a half inch to almost an inch. (The hoods known as ‘uglies’ are much thicker.) Whether this thickness has compacted over time is unknown.

The extant hoods I’ve looked at thus far have included those which are completely soft with no structure and this with structure in the brim or tip. The green hood from the MFA collection  is caned through the brim giving the brim support. A hood in the Greene collection at GCVM has a woven straw in the tip for support.

Some of the hoods are assembled with piping, same fabric and contrasting/complimenting, others are seen without piping. The same can be said for binding along the brim and bavolet.

Additional Links

This appears to be a black silk hood with a white or off white cotton interior. (who’s hood this was)

This little one is likly a child’s or doll’s.

Published in: on September 14, 2011 at 8:45 am  Comments (1)  
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How to Dress for a Photographer

This is a guest post thanks to Jenna Theissen. She shared this piece from the May 27th, 1865 edition of  All the Year Round, Weekly Gazette & Comet out of Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Thank you to Jenna for sharing this interesting piece of information.

A lady or gentleman, having made up her or his mind to be photographed, naturally considers, in the first place, how to be dressed so as to show off to the best advantage. This is by no means such an important matter as many might imagine. Le me offer a few words of advice touching dress. Orange color, for certain optical reasons, if photographically dark. Blue is white; other shades or tones of color are proportionally dark or lighter as they contain more or less of these colors. the progressive scale of photographic color commences with the lightest. The order starts thus: White, light-blue, violet, pink, mauve, dark-blue, lemon, blue green, leather-bound, drab, cerise, magenta, yellow-green, dark-brown, purple, red, amber, maroon, orange, dead-black.

 

Complexion has to be much considered in connection with dress. Blondes can wear much lighter colors than brunettes; the latter always present better pictures in dark dresses, but neither look well in positive white. Violent contrast of colors should be especially guarded against. In photography brunettes possess a great advantage over the fairer sisters. The lovely goelden tresses lose all their transparent brilliancy, and are represented black; whilst the bonnie blue theme of rapture to the poet, is misery to the photographer; for is put entirely out. The simplest and most effective way of removing the yellow color from the hair is to powder it nearly white, is is thus brought to about the same photographic tint as in nature. The same rule, of course, applies to the complexions. A freckle quite invisible at a distance is, on account of it’s yellow color, rendered most painfully off tint when photographed. The puff box must be called inot the assistance of art. Here let me intrude one word of general advice. Blue, as we have seen is the most readily affected by light, and yellow the beast! It, therefore, you would keep your complexion clear and free from the tan freckles whilst taking your delightful rambles as the seaside, discard by all means the blue veil, and substitute a dark green or yellow one in its stead. Blue tulle oiler, no more obstruction to the actinic rays of the sun then white. Half a yard of yellow net though perhaps not so becoming, will be more efficacious and sonsderably chaper then a quart of kalydor.

This additional piece comes from the reverse side of a card from Flynn’s Gallery in Salem, N.Y.

 

“Some simple facts concerning Color will be useful to many, especially ladies, when deciding how to dress for a Photographic picture. Dark brown, dark green, maroon and plaind black goods, without gloss, will take a rich black color. Silks of the same will take considerably lighter, because they are glossy. Snuff-brown, dark blue, drab, scarlet, cherry, dark orange, crimson and slate, will take a very rich look. Violet, blue, purple, pink and magenta, will take very light and should be used dressing for photographs. The prevailing style of Plaids will take well. The hair should never be very wet or glossy.”

 

Published in: on September 13, 2011 at 8:54 am  Leave a Comment  

FFtF

Are you thinking about a millinery project for the fall or winter?

Do you want to know more about the lovely straw bonnet you wear?

Are you interested in cottage industries in the mid-century?

If yes is the answer any of these, check out From Field to Fashion: The Straw Bonnet, available through my Etsy store for just $10.

bookletscan

From Field to Fashion is a 46 page booklet with the following sections:
– Straw Bonnets and the Straw Bonnet Industry
– Straw, Harvest and Preparation
– Straw Plait
– Straw Cloth
– The Straw Bonnet Base
– Industry and Labor
– Finishing the Straw Bonnet
– Who Wore a Straw Bonnet When?
and an Appendix:
1 – Original Bonnets Online
2 – Bonnet Production in Massachusetts, 1855
3 – Millinery Establishments by State, 1860
4 – Straw Bonnet Shapes
5 – Fashion Quotes from Harper’s Monthly & Weekly
6 – Fashion Quotes from Godey’s Ladies Book
7 – Straw bonnet quotes from fiction
8 – Wheat and Rye produced, 1850 & 1860
9 – Straw Industry Statistics
10 – Straw and Bonnet Related US Patents

Published in: on September 12, 2011 at 9:01 am  Leave a Comment  

A Practical Look at Winter Clothing

I’m sure you’ve noticed my focus on being prepared for cool and colder weather as of late. It may seem a bit early since it is just now Labor Day, but for some of us the cold fall and colder winter weather will be here soon.

In my browsings I stumbled across this 1859 magazine published out of Buffalo, NY called The Home Monthly with a practical take on winter clothing:  

Winter Clothing – Style and Material

We do now propose keeping our readers in the latest Parisian style, for we have no Genio Scott, Genin or Brodie to consult, and we hardly think we shall fail of our purpose without them. We do not choose to cater to fastidious fondness for the very latest pattern, and encourage ladies in exhausting their entire time with thoughts in the “where-withal shall we be clothed.”

Every lady ought to be dressed well, if not her purse will permit, but that does not mean to cast off a garment, because something later than that has appeared in the fashionable world, and that too with no regard to the better uses to which such expenditures could be put. But of course we need not mention this, for that sort of woman would scarcely read a magazine without fashion plates.

To dress meanly with no reason for so doing, and above all, to make religion an excuse for shabbiness, as Timothy Titcomb says, is abominable. It lessens our usefulness. We should be as beautiful as we can make ourselves, but that is not accomplished by any means in following the rule of fashion plates.

Merinos, and all wool Delaines are the most sensible as well as most durable of all materials for out-door wear at this season. Cut with pointed basques on slender figures, and trimmed neatly, with a dainty cambric collar and sleeves, and you have a costume suited to all ordinary occasions for winter wear. One’s own taste and length of purse should be the guide for extraordinary ones. Large plaids on small people, stripes on very tall ones; and Bayedere on short persons, are all equally unbecoming. Indeed, all conspicuous patterns weary the wearer who has refined taste, as well as the beholder. Above all thinks, consult, if possible, in an indirect way those you love best as to color, &c., provided your complexion will permit a choice.

The prettiest and most serviceable bonnet for winter is a black velvet. It admits of remodeling, and can be worn with propriety with any colored outer garment, and any color about the face.

The loose sacque or raglan of ladies’ cloth, is exceedingly convenient, as well as pretty and inexpensive for a cloak, as not trimming is required – nothing but a binding neatly stitched on.

The same material to be used for children’s wear, both boys and girls. Pretty wool cheques are cheap and durable for girl’s winter dresses, and boy’s coatees for the house. Above all things, don’t let them be made too short at the top and bottom of the garment. Many a mother’s pride has been gratified by the praise bestowed upon the fair neck and rounded limbs of her child, and after her heart has been broken, while laying them from her sight forever. Which will your choose?

Dress them warmly and let them out into the frosty, fresh air to grow rounder and fairer, albeit no one but yourself see how fair. We did not purpose saying this much, but it is written. Quarterly we will endeavor to suggest whatever is worthy of mention among the novelties of the season, always keeping our peculiar views of substantiality and beauty side by side.

New Materials

The challies which are offered at very reasonable prices this fall, are pretty, and seem likely to be the most durable of any commone dress goods that we find. They are nearly all in bayadere stripes – some of them high colored, but where warmth and durability are required we think they will be found very desirable. There is also a new material of Angola wool for dresses – heavier than wool delanes or merinos, which we judge to be very desirable for these qualities, viz: strength and durability, unless the satin stripe that adorns it should be found to fray out. – Dresses of this material can be bought in New York at $6, the pattern. This comes the nearest to ladies’ cloth of anything we have seen. The high-colored printed cashmeres – merino styles – are offered as low as six shillings per yard, while we found recently at Stewart’s the best colors of printed French merinos at a dollar per yard. The bright chintz, patterned, all wool delaines are offered lower than ever before. But no delaine can be as cheap as a good merino at least to those who wear their dresses out. We are glad to see more durable material for dresses coming into market. Much time and labor in dress-making will be saved by those who emply these materials. It is also a saving of expense, for the cost of making and trimming a dress of good, and of worthless material is very nearly the same. Every lady, then, should feel that time and labor are wasted in the making up of flimsy material and even if her means should be at first seem too limited to purchase that which is better, she should make a special effort to save up “capital to economise with”.

Published in: on September 5, 2011 at 9:03 am  Comments (1)  
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A Half Dozen Housewifes

I had fun putting these little pieces together. It can be fun playing with the fabrics, putting them together in ways I think the original cast might have.

 

Each of these are available for purchase on Etsy at a special limited time price  .

I’m looking forward to doing some rolled pocket cases with each pocket a variation on one kind of fabric – Turkey reds, poison greens, Prussian blues and chrome yellows. I may even play with some all in plaids.

Published in: on August 30, 2011 at 12:44 pm  Comments (1)  
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One Reason

A couple weeks back a good friend asked me why it is so important to me that other people are accurate in their living history portrayals. At the time, I had no profound answer. The best I could come up with is that it could possibly be a teaching thing. After all, whether in a formal or informal setting, your students, what they learn and how they demonstrate their knowledge is a reflection of you and your abilities.

I still don’t have any better answer.

But, that question certainly came back to me as I was reading through Jeff Spevak’s article in the Rochester Democrat and Chronicle, “Caught in Time”. I read through the sections enjoying his use of words as he describes this admittedly unique hobby. Then I reached the section entitled “Supply Depots” at which point I came to a screeching halt as I read the words “____’s costume shop.” Those who know me well can likely picture the facial expression I had as my head titled to the side in irritation. This creak in my neck continued as I read further about historical items from another era being used. Of course this creaked neck and irritated facial expression was not the author’s fault. How was he to know the buttons things like this can push in certain reenactors?

Now, before I continue in the direction I am headed, I want to say Mr. Spevak’s piece is one of if not the best I have read regarding the nature of Civil War reenacting. He spent a good deal of time trying to get to know some of us peculiar creatures. He asked very good questions, pulling them together into a thorough article. (There is a supporting article as well.)

Let us get back to why this section made the question of why it is so important to me that other people are accurate pop back to mind

It boils right down to – One or two people can end up representing a whole group of people whether that is in a newspaper article or a student’s field trip or a family’s weekend vacation experience. So, that person or person needs to be as good as they can possibly be.

Yes, the individual mentioned has put a good amount of effort into his attire. He has thought out what he wears, why he wears it, and how he can best put his attire together.

But, there are those of us who spend hours and hours, often each day, some to the equivalent of a full time job or more, studying every aspect of our attire, our accessories, our pieces of material culture, our behavior and so on to make sure they can truly represent the Civil War era to the very best of our ability. In our research, we develop a deepening understanding of the era and respect for the extant pieces of material culture. We put a great deal of effort into acquiring or planning and constructing each garment we wear and every other item we choose.

 I’m going to be completely honest here in saying, we don’t like it when the methods some people choose to develop their impression diminishes the way in which we develop ours. We don’t want spectators, whether a family, a group of students or journalists, to walk away from an event with a skewed or worse yet inaccurate understanding of the era or living history.

To some this makes us “thread-counters”, “stitch-nazis” or “mavens”. I’ll admit, I am finding this type of accusation harder and harder to contradict. Yes, I am picky. I am incredibly picky. I want to do my best. I want you to do your best. I believe research and accuracy are extremely important. Does this make me one of those things? Maybe. But, I assure you – I am more than happy to help you achieve your goals. I am more than happy to share my research (when it isn’t committed elsewhere.) I am also comfortable in admitting when I am wrong or there are holes in my research. I am human. I just want to see the best possible representation of our given time period because we are educating children and families.

Mr.  Spevak’s  article definitally helped point out one, no two reasons why other people’s accuracy is important to me. Each one of us has chosen to take on the responsibility to educate people, young and adult, about this era in American History. They deserve accurate information.

Published in: on August 29, 2011 at 7:38 am  Comments (4)  

Travel (research) Reflections

I’ve been working on an 1830s travel program for GCVM. In the process I’ve learned a few things about travel, as well as a few other things I would like to share.

First, I have a big challenge going from an 1850s and 60s ‘mindset’ to an 1830s ‘mindset’. I am such a visual person, I need the aid of photographs and paintings to help me develop that mental picture. I also find I really need maps, detailed maps to aid in this visual. Another aspect is that I’ve spent my time from college on focusing on the time frame between approx 1848 and 1865 often obsessing right down to the minute detail. This amount of time can not compare to June, July and August.

In terms of clothing, the guide books I focused on suggested a dress to have sleeves that were not tight to prevent sweating. I altered my dress to have deeper armscyes and looser sleeves, especially through the upper arm. I find this aspect of the dress to be exceptionally comfortable. I have full movement of my arms comfortably. I believe even in exceptionally hot and humid weather, the sleeve will do well with not sticking or bunching against the skin. I do think the armscye is rather noticable in the front. This also throws off my attempt at a 30s sleeve since the change from the upper part of my sleeve, which is loosely fitted around my larger upper arms, to the larger lower sleeve is minimal. (I’ll see if I can get a good photo of that.)

When it came to the bodice, I couldn’t see how the back closing dresses of the 30s could possibly work for a woman who was supposed to be traveling alone. With several nights at inns and with rough travel, she would need a comfortable front closing dress. I opted for a cross-over bodice closing at the waist in the front. I fully admit, now that it is done it feels far more like a 50s bodice than a 30s. While sitting the neckline sits just above the drop of my shoulder but when standing it does not have the wider neckline of the time. If I were to have been working on a later 50s or 60s version, I definitally would have opted for a sacque & petti or sacque and dress combination in a seasonall appropriate material, ie linen or wool.

The weekend before the session run-through I learned the challenges of soot. I found out to late that my straw bonnet got smooshed while being stored in the car. (FYI – Hot, humid cars are not a good place to store bonnets.) Instead of the straw, I wore my white sheer cotton drawn bonnet. The material was a magnet for the soot coming from the steam engine. Before I knew it my white bonnet was speckled with little black spots. These little black spots do not come off. Of course, upon learning this first hand, I needed to include it in my discussion.

During that same event I found reason to question the wearing of white petticoats during railroad travel. With the second day’s weather being so wet, the soot gathered on the landing and steps of each car. While the front of my skirts could be controlled to avoid much of the layer of black, sticky soot mud, the backs could not. My inner petticoat, that directly over my cage, became black with soot a good foot up the inside. I should mention these are petticoats that get cleaned once a season due to the time involved in the starching and ironing. While I was able to wash most of the soot out with a good soak and wash in oxyclean, I am not certain when a traveler would have the time to have her petticoats washed. She certainly wouldn’t be able to on a regular basis during the journey even if washing services were available at the inns she stayed at. Would she go about in blackened petticoats? Would she opt for petticoats of a different color? I don’t know.

Boots, shoes and slippers. The wearing of stout leather boots certainly makes sense to any of us who have stood at the edge of a giant puddle while wearing something pretty on our feet. Some authors (I’ll double-check who if you need me to) suggest packing a pair of slippers in your travel bag, the one you carry with you. initially, when I read this years back I thought is was a nice idea. I didn’t think much beyond that. I think I figured out why these are so important. I’ve found if one sits too long in tight stockings, held snug at the knee, and tight boots, that the feet and ankles tend to swell. If on longer railroad or packet boat trips, one is able to remove her boots and loosen her stockings, there will be significantly more comfort. Now of course the question is, how does a woman do this while maintaining all decency? In the case of a woman staying in a ladies’ car, this would not be a big challenge. But what about a woman traveling in combined company?

 Oh back to bonnets. There is a good reason why guide books suggest traveling hoods. When you need to rest your head due to a long journey, or a weather induced migraine in my case, a bonnet is exceptionally uncomfortable to lean you head against a seat or side of the rail car. I suppose the same would be true on a stage. So, I really understand the suggestion of a hood. But, my quandary is what we are seeing in images. Most of them show women in bonnets with traveling veils. So, do you board in your bonnet then change to you hood when you need to rest? The challenge I see there is where to put the bonnet. Do you have your band box with you? Is there even room for it to be carried with you? If you opt to wear your hood, do you, and if so, how do you attach a veil to a traveling hood? There are items like a bonnet shade or ugly intended for use with a bonnet during travel. These would suggest wearing the bonnet for the duration of travel, at least during non-rest times. At the same time, there are a great number of hoods. (But, these are more mid-century rather than the earlier 30s which I don’t know as well.)

Relatively random reflections on this process. Maybe in September I’ll have reflections on a scripted presentation style program verse an interactive student focused one.

Published in: on August 26, 2011 at 11:35 am  Leave a Comment  
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Paisley Long Shawls

You know I Love paisley.

Elizabeth Aldridge is now offering Paisley long shawls, also known as scarf shawls. These lovely shawls are a silk and wool blend, 28″ wide and 70″ long. She has a variety to select from on her website. Just look under “Sundries”. I’m rather fond of the deep red one.

There are a couple ways you can take these shawls to make them bigger and more square.
One way is to take two shawls; trim off the border along one long side of each. Seam them together along the sides where the border was removed. This would give you a shawl roughly 70″ by 50″. You could do this with a third shawl adding it to the center. This could give roughly 70″x70″.
Another option is to take the borders off of these shawls and add them to a center square. You would need 2 shawls to go around a square wool shawl. (2 shawls = 4 borders.) You can attach the borders on all one side or on alternate corners for a turn-over shawl. (When it is folded, you will see both borders.

Adding ‘paisley’ borders to wool or cashmire centers was common in the mid-century. This happened in one of two ways. The borders were woven seperately. They could be sewn on the centers by a group of women then sold commercially or the borders could be sold/bought and sewn on at home.

 

Here is a great illustration of long shawls during the Regency era.

Here is a beautiful blue long shawl

For those thinking of piecing two or three of these shawls into a larger shawl, here is a 20s/30s shawl with the border added to the center.

This is a must-see 1815 English shawl in a brillian blue with floral motif

Published in: on August 25, 2011 at 6:51 pm  Leave a Comment  
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An Evening Chill in the Air

Have you noticed the chill in the air as evening sets in? I know it is still August. But, it is definitely there. While it may feel refreshing to fall asleep in this fresh cool air after many hot and humid nights, we all know this means even colder nights aren’t far behind. I’ll admit, this year I am particularly not looking forward to the colder weather coming in since I don’t exactly have my own home with my own favorite creature comforts. I am big, really big on my creature comforts, most of which come from what I’ve learned about how people kept warm in the 19th century. But, I digress.

With cold weather imminent, now is the time to make sure you are ready. After all, you don’t want to be left out in the cold without your cold weather wear.

Layers are the Key to Warmth. This means your 1) Underpinnings 2) Dress 3) Outerwear and 4) Accessories.

For your underpinnings, consider these:

For your dress, consider:

For outerwear, think beyond the cape that will let cold air in and encumber you arms. Consider:

Accessories help keep your hands and head warm. Consider these:

Published in: on August 22, 2011 at 12:22 pm  Leave a Comment  
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What’s Under Foot? (aka the Carpet and Rug Article)

After hearing some ladies go on and on about never hearing of carpet before at this past weekend’s event, I just had to bring this article forward.

This is the rug and carpet article in the Citizen’s Companion a few years back. (I was going to eventually get around to a follow up post linking various examples of rugs and carpets. But, since the topic of braided rag rugs came up on the SA, I decided to put this up for now.)

“For, besides contributing to the adornment of a home and saving much labor of sweeping and scrubbing, they are great protections against cold and dampness, – and thus promote comfort and health. Hence “a bare floor,” has become almost a synonym for discomfort and untidiness; and the landable ambitions to furnish her domicile with floor coverings, – beautiful, if possible, as well as useful, – leads many a housekeeper to wonderful efforts in their manufacture….” (Hale)

            By the mid-nineteenth century, floor coverings established a firm footing in English and American décor. Even a century before, this could not be said. In the mid 1700s only an estimated half of English homes had floor coverings most being floor clothes.[i] The mid nineteenth century American housewife had many options for her floor. Floors could be painted with an assortment of domestically made rugs softening or warming the room; floors could be covered with printed or painted floor clothes, ingrain carpet or a pile carpet. In the first half of the century American carpet and rug manufacture, a newer endeavor for most of the Western world, increased dramatically producing 13,285,921 yards of carpet worth $7,857,636 in 1860. The largest number of manufactures was in Pennsylvania (137) where carpet makers were mostly in small guild-like groupings, while the largest individual manufacturers were in Massachusetts producing one third of the carpets produced.[ii]  According to Floor Coverings for Historic Buildings, 80 to 90 percent of carpeting manufactured in the United States during the 1850s and 1860s was ingrain carpet.  Although manufacturing information may suggest manufactured carpets were more available in the New England and Middle Atlantic States, the Tariff of the Confederate States of America[iii] from August of 1861  lists numerous carpets to be taxed on page 6 including “carpets, carpeting, hearth-rugs, bed-sides, and other portions of carpeting, being either Aubusson, Brussels, ingrain, Saxony, Turkey, Venetian, Wilton, or any other similar fabric, not otherwise provided for; … matting, china or other floor matting, and mats made of flags, jute, or grass.” Vicki Betts’ database of southern newspapers during the war include advertisements for two and three ply ingrain, velvet, tapestry, Brussels, oil cloth, matting, Venetian, and English medallions, which are likely Axminsters.[iv]   In addition to the US manufactured carpets, we imported $2,174,064 worth of carpets from England and $10,317 from France in 1859.[v]

            Household management books and articles[vi] offered advice about how to decorate a house, the parlor, chambers, and dining areas cost effectively including the floor covering and which floor coverings suited which rooms best. Most authors maintain that purchasing a good quality carpet is cheapest in the end. Miss Leslie strongly argues against any carpet with any white in the design due to its rapid tendency to appear soiled, encouraging the selection of a carpet with a gradation of bright and dark tones of a single color or pair of colors (p174). Meanwhile, Beecher discourages carpets with black threads saying they are rotten (p302). More importance is put on floor coverings for the cold winter months to warm the room and floor than in the summer. Leslie and Beecher write about taking carpets up in the summer to store. Anne Hale describes straw mats as preferable in the summer because they remain cool and are easy to clean. Miss Leslie believes carpets add heat to a room and accumulates dust in the summer.

Numerous suggestions are made to protect a carpet. Smaller rugs or extra pieces of carpet are placed over higher traffic areas such as around the bed, doorways, or in front of the couch to protect the carpet beneath[vii]. A large woolen cloth or drugget cloth is suggested for under the table and chairs in the dinning area.[viii] Oil cloth upside down beneath the wash stand or basin protects from splashing water.[ix] Each author also gives advice for laying carpet to best preserve the floors and extend the life of the carpet. A lining as the lowest layer protects the floor. Layered between the lining and the carpet, both Leslie and Hale suggest straw or dried grasses and cotton batting or old quilts. These layers keep the dirt from rubbing against the underside of the carpet causing damage. Beecher disagrees with Hale and Leslie in regards to loose straw under a carpet because it wears the carpet in spots. She prefers the use of straw matting instead. All three women suggest using circles of leather through which the carpet tacks are placed toe prevent the tacks from damaging the carpet. Hale suggests having children cut the circles from old shoes and boots.

  

Types of floor coverings

“A nice American ingrain carpet is handsome enough for any American home; but if women have more money then they know what to do with, they can buy tapestry and velvet; which beautiful as they may be, require such careful usage to retain their good looks, even when of the very best of Brussels and Axminster, that it is much wiser to be satisfied with an ingrain and put the surplus money into pictures for the walls.” (Hale)

Flat Weave carpet

            Flat weave carpet is a woven carpet with no pile. The carpet is flat like a woven piece of fabric with the weave of the fabric creating the design of the carpet.

Kidderminster or Ingrain Carpet

Ingrain carpet is a flat weave double or triple ply reversible carpet woven in Europe and the United States. This carpet is woven in strips which are laid side by side tacked down[x]. Strips ranged from 9 inches to 54 inches with 36 inches being the standard and most common width. Most domestic manuals discuss tacking carpet in place. Beecher details how to sew the strips together as I have seen most extant carpets. The pattern in a two-ply ingrain carpet is created by weaving two webs of weft and warp which inter lock at various points of the design. The pattern is created by the colors of the weft which come to the surfaces (front and back) of the carpet.

“The ingrain or double carpet is found to consist of two contiguous webs, intermingled with each other in such a manner to produce the pattern, each of these webs, if woven singly, would have a striped appearance, being partly coloured in the weft. One set of coloured stripes is thus imposed upon another: and in designing the colours of the pattern, no selection beyond what is afforded by the judicious arrangement of these stripes can be made. The full number of colors is thus very limited; and these can only be obtained where the weft transverses the warp of the same colour.” (The Art of Weaving)

            Designs for ingrain carpet were most often simple, small geometrics during the use of the drawloom prior to the invention of the jacquard attachment[xi] . After the jacquard attachment, designs included complex geometrics, floral, and patriotic motifs. Colors were frequently bright and contrasting.

Triple or three ply carpet is similar except there are three sets of webs being woven to create the pattern. The third set of threads gives a greater variety to the color of the carpet. Period writings suggest most believed that three ply was a stronger more durable carpet than two-ply carpet.

Venetian Carpet

            Venetian is a less expensive ingrain carpet often reserved for use in halls and on stairs[xii] as well as servants’ rooms and private sitting rooms. There were two types of Venetian carpet available, common and damask. Common Venetian carpets were colorfully striped. Damask Venetians were checked.

Venetian carpet was woven in narrow strips 18 inches to 36 inches wide. Venetian carpet was considered inferior to ingrain carpet in quality due to lower durability and limited design options.  They were manufactured in both Europe and the United States with no confirmed historical connection with Venice, Italy.     

List Carpet

            List carpet was a manufactured and domestically made flat weave carpet using rag fabric for the weft over linen, wool, or cotton warp. This carpet was made on a simple loom in strips. The width of the carpet strips depended on the width of the loom. The carpets could be a single woven width or several narrower strips sewn together. The pattern of the carpet was either striped or checked depending on the colors of rags and weft threads. I suspect the US census report does not include or at least does not include all list carpet produced because other period sources indicate list or rag carpet manufactured in locations not included in the census. For example, the Official Catalogue of the New York Exhibition of the Industry of All Nations in 1853 lists a specimen of list carpet manufactured by John M. Nicholas in St. Louis, Missouri. I do not know if this discrepancy is due to the cottage nature of some of the list carpet manufacture or the type of carpet itself.

 

Pile Carpet     

            A pile carpet is a woven carpet with parts of the weave rising above the base of the carpet creating a soft or looped pile.

Brussels 

            Brussels carpet is a looped pile woven carpet. While the carpet is woven, worsted wool warp threads are held in loops by wires while linen or cotton warp and weft lock the loops in place. We only see the looped pile on the surface while the linen or cotton base is unseen. The design of the carpet is created with the various colored loops on the surface of the carpet.

“The Brussels carpet is distinguished from the common one by having a raised pile, and by the circumstance that the figures and colours are entirely produced from the warp. The pile is raised by inserting a wire between the body of the warp and the previously raised colouring threads. These threads descend and are fixed by the weft, which is of linen, two picks being given before the insertation of each wire, and these picks are called binders, and after a few repetitions of the process the wires are withdrawn, taking care that the wires be not drawn out too near the face of the cloth: otherwise the looped warp would become stretched, by recovering the position in which it was before the wires were inserted.” (The Art of Weaving)

Wilton

            Wilton is a cut pile jacquard woven carpet made in the same way Brussels is made, except the looped piles are cut as the wires holding the loops are removed. At times the pile is longer than in Brussels. Wilton was referred to as having a velvet look and feel. But, Miss Leslie warns this carpet does not wear well, loosing its rich velvet-like appearance as bits of wool from the cut pile are swept away with each cleaning.

Brussels and Wilton were more expensive than ingrain, Brussels being the more costly of the two. Both were more common in wealthier homes and less common in average homes.[xiii]

Brussels and Wilton used the same designs, the difference being the looped or cut pile. Patterns included small to large florals, geometric grids combined with floral motifs, stars, ribbon and rope knot work, rosette medallions, diamonds, and flor-de-lies.  Original body Brussels and Wilton carpet used only up to five colors to create the patterns of the carpets. Tapestry Brussels and tapestry velvet (Wilton) used a pre-printed thread dyed through the drum printing. This process allowed more than five colors in patterns. Floral designs could now be subtly shaded in ways not possible before. The disadvantage was that tapestry Brussels and velvet were less durable than the originals.

Axminster

            Axminster is categorized in some period writings as a flat weave carpet, in others as a pile carpet. In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, Axminster referred to any English made knotted pile carpet which will be discussed later.[xiv]  The Axminster carpets of the mid-nineteenth century were a chenille carpet woven flat in a whole piece with an overall design rather than in strips. They were made with a two step process developed by James Templeton. First chenille strips were woven with wool. These chenille strips were then woven into the carpet foundation. The chenille fur creates the pile and the pattern we see. The carpets could be woven in a single piece to fill a whole room. According to Winkler and Von Rosensteil, “Templeton’s ‘patent chenille Axminsters’ could be woven up to 33 feet wide; making them the first woven broadloom carpets.” This carpet was a more costly carpet due to its method of manufacture. Fewer were made as well.

 

Knotted Pile Carpet

Knotted pile carpets are made by knotting various colored tufts of fiber or yarns around the warp threads strung on a loom. A weft or set of wefts is woven across each set of knots to hold them in place. The knots are what we see on the face of the carpet producing the endless variety of designs. Knots can be either symmetrical or asymmetrical wrapping around two warps at a time. Knotted pile carpets can be distinguished from each other by looking at their design, motifs, fibers used, weaving technique, and knotting technique. Designs vary in the use of fields, medallions, and borders[xv]. Motives vary according to cultural traditions and decorative fashion. Fibers included wool, silk, cotton, linen, and hemp for the warp, wefts, and pile. Weaving and knotting technique varied with each location including even, semi-depressed, and fully depressed[xvi] warps and taut and sinuous wefts. In describing the Oriental style and European knotted pile carpets, I will focus mainly on the design and motifs since the fibers used and techniques for producing these carpets have changed over the centuries.

Oriental or Turkey Style Knotted Pile Carpets 

            “The Turkey carpet is the simplest in its texture of all carpets, and at the same time is almost unlimited in the choice of colours. Let us suppose ourselves seated at a common loom, and than immediately after having thrown a pick, we commence to tie on every thread of the warp a bunch of coloured worsted yarns, varying the colour according to our fancy. This completed, let two or three picks be thrown, and all well driven up; and another row of coloured worsteds tied one. It is clear that in this way we could produce any pattern and that no more of any colour is wanted than in sufficient to produce the required effect.”[xvii]

            Before continuing to outline the many Oriental and Oriental style carpets that existed in the nineteenth century, I should emphasize that these particular carpets so popular among collectors and decorators now, are the least discussed carpets in period articles discussing house furnishing or carpets. Occasional mentions are made comparing Oriental styles with the numerous above described floor covering. This suggests this class of carpets were not the most common carpet rarely used by the working classes in the mid-century. Due to this, I will include only a very, very brief description of these carpets. Motifs listed are just as sample of what was used for those particular carpets.[xviii]

            Oriental style carpets were and are classified by region of origin:

Persian carpets are one of the most diverse in design. This is due to the large geographic and varied tribes or villages in which they were made. Designs are arranged in both medallion and all-over patterns with motifs including diamonds, hexagons, octagons, palmettes[xix], sub bursts, rose groupings, botehs[xx], and animals. Pictorial carpets were also made. The colors differed from tradition to tradition.

            Caucasian carpets were woven near the Black and Caspian Seas and the Caucasus Mountains. They were, and are still, woven by many tribes. Even though they were woven by many tribes, they maintained common designs and colors. Motifs included triangles, diamonds, stars and stylized, geometric animals such as dragons and scorpions. Colors included bright reds, greens, and blues.

            Turkoman carpets come from Turkestan and Afganistan. They have smallish geometric motifs set in an all-over pattern in a center field and narrow, geometric borders. One common motif was the octagonal gul[xxi] which was often set in rows. Colors were deep shade of red, blue, brown and tan.

            Indian carpets include Boteh, palmette, rosette, and leaf motifs. These are often set in vertical or horizontal rows in an all-over design. (Presently rugs made in India are woven in European, Chinese, and Turkoman styles.)

            Chinese carpets were made since the eighteenth century although I do not have a documented Chinese carpet in a mid-nineteenth century US setting. The unique thing about Chinese carpets is the motives used have literal meanings such as happy marriage, luck, wealth, love, and fertility. These motifs can include stylized dragons, lotuses, bats, peones, birds, butterflies, and clouds. Borders were also distinctive using repeated geometric motifs.

European Knotted Pile Carpets

European knotted pile carpets were produced in France, Spain, Belgium, and Great Britain well prior to the nineteenth century. These elaborate carpets were commissioned by the nobility and wealthy merchants of the time for the floors of buildings.

Spanish carpets, the earliest knotted piles in Europe[xxii], had a Moorish and Muslim influence using a mixture of Islamic and Christian motifs as well as mimicking Turkey carpets. Designs were created with repeated geometric, stylized nature, and animal motives set with moderate borders, Lotto and Holbein[xxiii] designs created with a single warp knot and multiple wefts.

French carpets of Savonnerie and Aubusson (tapestry embroidery carpets) were at their height in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Savonnerie carpets were woven, often by commission for royal residences and notable locations such as the Louvre in Paris. Designs often included naturalistic floral motifs, architectural motifs, and heraldic motifs including coats of arms. These carpets were often designed for specific rooms reflecting the room’s architecture and painting. 

British carpets drew on French carpets because British manufactures took both designs and weavers from the famed French center of Savonnerie.[xxiv]  British carpets were also designed by interior and architectural designers for specific buildings.[xxv] Designs included fans, floral wreaths, floral garlands.

Painted floor clothes

            Floor clothes, or oil clothes as they became known, were both made domestically and manufactured.  Floor clothes were an expensive item in the second half of the 1700s in the United States while they were increasing in popularity in both the US and England.[xxvi] As we reach the 1860s floor clothes become less costly but loose some favor due to the increasing popularity of woven carpets which were becoming more available and affordable. As this happened floor clothes move from the eighteenth century parlor to the nineteenth century kitchen and halls. Soon after, in 1863[xxvii] floor clothes lead to the invention and 1875 introduction of linoleum flooring.

            A floor cloth is made by painting a section of canvas with several layers of paint. A good floor cloth had four to seven coats of oil based paint on both sides.  The design was painted on either freehand or stenciled in the case of those domestically made or stamped if manufactured. The cloth is then covered with a clear varnish. As we see in the following passage from Hale, period authors suggested varnishing a floor cloth after it is laid down.

“Painted carpeting, by the multiplicity of its colors and designs, hides dust and stains, while rivaling in brightness and beauty the productions of the proudest looms, and is, therefore, desirable for chambers, dining rooms and halls – apartments where there is much stepping, but not constant occupation. If, however, canvass carpets are used for apartments what are constantly occupied, as they are deficient in warmth, they should have laid upon them rugs and mats, in plenty, – especially during winter. In selecting these carpets get only the well-hardened and thickly painted – such as are almost stout and stiff – all others are soon defaced. Varnish them immediately after they are laid; and, if they are subjected to much wear, varnish them every spring.”

Due to the many layers of paint, a well made floor cloth can be quite heavy. Designs included geometric grid patterns similar to those painted on floors. through the first half of the century. Within these grid designs were floral motifs. Natural designs such as stones, wood, or marble were also popular. Borders .could follow the rectangular shape of the floor cloth as if it were and area rug or follow the lines of a room more like a wall-to-wall carpet.

Flat weave carpet, likely ingrain. (from author’s collection)

Flat weave carpet, likely ingrain. (from the author’s collection)

Flat weave carpet or painted floor-cloth with rose-floral motifs within a repeated octagon and diamond pattern. (from the author’s collection)

Flat weave carpet or painted floor-cloth with a repeated octagon and diamond pattern. (from the author’s collection) 

Painted floor cloth or floor with a diagonal grid pattern. (from the author’s collection)

Domestic made rugs

“Every family could save old clothes enough in a few years, to make a rag carpet. I must acknowledge, however, in this case, that we got a great part of our stock from a friend. Mrs. Doolittle saw us at work one day and offered to give me a barrel full of old clothes, ‘just fit for carpet rags.’ She said she was sure she should be glad to get rid of them, though it grieved me to see such waste. There were coats that could not have cost less than $30 each, and pants, and boys’ clothes, and one fine cape that had been worn by the girls. With a great spot of paint on it; and the Whole so eaten by moths as to spoil them for anything but carpet rags. And then to think that every moth could have been kept away with a sixpence worth of camphor gum. And that spot of paint, if treated when fresh, with a little camphene, which is always the most convenient of anything where it is used, or with alcohol, or spirits of turpentine, could have been washed out with five minutes’ labor.”[xxviii]

            Directions and advice for making rugs at home are found in many nineteenth century domestic manuals. Each one uses fabric scraps or recycled clothing to make the rug. There are extant examples of domestically made rugs similar to those described as well as some that are not described in written works. These latter rugs were either made following unwritten tradition or were developed without written support. One must see rug is the Caswell rug currently at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. This 13 foot by 12 foot rug was made with wool tambour embroidery. This overall design was made from 78 blocks, including a removable hearthstone, with floral arrangements, cats, dogs, fruit bowls, birds, sea shells, and a couple arm in arm. While this rug is an unusual example of mid-nineteenth century rug making in size and technique, it does show the time a woman was willing to devote to creating a floor covering.

Prior to the nineteenth century these domestically made were not used to cover the floor. Instead they were used to cover tables and chests. Bed rugs were made to cover beds. In the mid-nineteenth century these domestically made rugs varied in use depending on the size of the rug and the intent of the maker. Some, such as the Caswell rug (discussed later) covered entire floors. Others protected high traffic areas such as doorways or in front of the hearth or a sofa. Others were commemorative or decorative. It is this last category that seems to survive for us to see today. As we all know, most utilitarian textiles rarely survive for study.

Woven rag rugs

            This was possibly the most common form of rag rug being made in the home and in some US carpet manufactures. Hale suggests thick pieces of wool were best. The fabric was cut in strips which were sewn together end to end. These long stripes, several yards long, were then rolled into balls for easier use. The fabric strips were then woven through warps of either fabric strips or thick threads. This could be done on a loom if one was available or on a quilting frame. To make smaller round rugs, a large barrel hoop could be wrapped in cloth and used to attach the strips to. The lengths of those woven on a loom, the carpets could be quite long. Looking at State and local Agricultural Society reports we see prizes for the best lengths of rag carpet woven. The typical listing shows carpets woven ten to fifteen yards in length.[xxix]  In this passage below, we see a young lady planning a rag carpet for the parlor:

[quote] “So Lucy communicated to Emily a great project she had formed, which was no less than the making of a carpet for the front room, which was their parlor. Her father had often said he should so love to sit there of an evening if the floor only had a carpet on it, but that he could not bear the grating of a sanded floor.
”And you, Lucy, you a girl of fourteen years old, have undertaken to make a carpet, without your mother’s knowing it, too ; and without any time or any thing to make it of, that I can see!”
”What put me in mind of it,” said Lucy,” was an old great coat which a peddler[sic] gave me one warm day last summer, because he said it was too heavy for him to carry. It was an immense thing with capes and lining, and made twelve large balls. Since then, I have gathered up every rag which has been thrown aside, until now, I think I have almost enough; don’t you ?” and she raised a coverlet and showed a great number of balls made of cloths which had been cut into strips and sewed together.

“Yes,” said Emily,” I should think there was enough to make half a dozen carpets; but you have no bright, gay colors. You ought to have some white and red. I have seen a rag carpet made almost as handsome as the best ingrain.”
”Yes,” said Lucy, rather sorrowfully;” but I must take what I can get.”

“And I know what you can get,” said Emily. “Mother told me only yesterday, that I might give my two last winter scarlet frocks, which are almost worn out and are too small for me, with my old blue merino cloak, to whomsoever I chose ; and I choose to give them to you, and into your carpet they shall go. And don’t you remember, Lucy, how we used to amuse ourselves with looking over the paper rags in the loft of papa’s store, and how he let us take away whatever we liked ? I shall do it again and pick out some nice, long strips of white for you.” Lucy accepted Emily’s offer as frankly as it was made; and glad enough she was to get these pretty colors. Old Mrs. Potter had told her, when she privately consulted her about the weaving, that if she only had some gay colors she could weave in pretty little figures, which would make it look as handsome as a real, boughten carpet.”

“But how are you to pay for the warp and the weaving?” inquired Emily; “and how are you to get it made and put down without your father and mother knowing it?”

Lucy said that she had it all planned out, and that she would tell her one of these days.”[xxx] [end quote]

 

Braided rag rugs

            Braided rag rugs were considered very durable. These were also made from strips of scrap cloth like that used for the woven rag rugs. In this case the strips are folded to hide the raw edges inside of the strip. The strips were sewn together end to end and often rolled into balls for ease of use and storage.  The strips are braided in a variety of simple to complex braids which are then coiled as they are sewn into place. The Confederate Receipt Book gives this simple direction for making a braided mat:

“Cheap Door Mats — Cut any old woolen articles into long strips, from one to two inches broad. Braid three of these together, and sew the braid in gradually increasing circles till large enough.”

Braided rugs were most often circular or oval, though rectangles were possible. Hale describes braiding around a piece of purchased carpet which has been lined.

This next section of domestically made rugs, yarn sewn, shirred and hooked, is one covering several rugs constructed by attaching scraps of fabric to a base material. In creating these rugs the needle-worker was able to be creative and artistic. Designs ranged from geometrics to floral designs to full life scenes. The pictorial rugs often portrayed what the maker knew such as home, nautical or animal scenes. Patriotic scenes were also popular at various points (post Revolutionary War, during the War of 1812 and the Centennial). The designs were as vast as the makers. Most of these domestically made rugs seem to originate in the New England and North Atlantic States and Canada.[xxxi] One interesting note: although magazines such as Godey’s Lady’s Book and Peterson’s  were filled with directions and illustrations for clothing, various forms of needlework, small sewing projects, purses, shoes, quilt patchwork, pillows, etc., directions for rugs, a domestic item, were not included. Instead, I had to look to the domestic advice books of Leslie, Beeton and Beecher for information on domestically made rugs.

Yarn Sewn rugs

             Yarn sewn rugs were constructed on a base of homespun linen or grain bags. Two ply yarn was sewn in a running stitch leaving loops on the surface with the aid of a reed or quill. The loops could be cut on the surface creating a soft cut pile or left with a looped pile. Yarn sewn rugs were popularly made early in the nineteenth century, mostly between 1800 and 1840.[xxxii]

 Shirred rugs

            Shirred rugs are made by sewing strips or bits of fabric to a foundation fabric. The pieces of fabric are attached in a number of methods, chenille, folded-bias, pleated, and patch shirring.[xxxiii]  In the chenille method half inch to 1 ½ inch wide strips of fabric are folded lengthwise and gathered down the center. These strips are sewn to at the base at the fold. The folded-bias method uses inch wide bias strips folded in half. The folded bias strips are sewn to the base closely together causing the strips to stand up. Pleated shirring also uses bias strips. In this method the strip is folded or pleated into a loop and sewn directly to the base at each loop. Knopp says this is the rarer shirring method. Patch shirring uses circles or squares of fabric bunched together. The center of the piece is sewn to the base close together causing them to support each other. Knopp notes the decline in interest in shirred rugs as hooked rugs became popular in the 1850s.

Hooked rugs

“Carpets and rugs of looped work are often very beautiful, and are the strongest of rag carpets.” (Hale)

Hooked rugs are made by pulling strips of cloth through a base fabric. They began being made sometime in the late 1840s. Initially the base was linen, tow, or homespun hemp. Burlap was used for rugs after the material started being made for sack.[xxxiv] Hale describes for us the period technique for pulling the cloth through the base:

“Hold a strip in your left hand under the cloth, and push the book held in your right hand between the threads of the cloth, and thus draw up the strip into a loop half an inch long. Make the loops as close as they will hold in the cloth. The work is very handsome with the loops upcut; but if they are sheared it is as beautiful as velvet. Soft woolen and old silk make the nicest pile. Carpet thrums, obtained at carpet mills, are next best. Old doeskin and broadcloth look very well, and, though they are extremely hard to loop, they are so durable that they are always desired. Cotton rags may be introduced, in small quantities; in fact any sort of rag that can be used in no other way is available for loop-work.”  

The hook used is similar to a crochet or tambour hook set in a wood handle. (This hook is quite different from modern latch-hooks.) Initially many of these hooks were homemade. One hook shown in Turbayne’s book (p149) is obviously made from an early century fork. The base fabric could be set on a quilt frame or a homemade frame. (Embroidery frames do not hold the fabric taut enough to pull the hook through.) After the Civil War commercial patterns were printed and sold making hooked rugs very popular after the War.

Appliquéd rugs

            Appliquéd rugs were often similar in visual design to shirred and hooked rugs despite the very different method of construction These rugs layered pieces of wool on top of each other often on a woolen ground. Some appliquéd rugs were made in blocks like quilts were made. Instead of using a single ground, multiple squares were appliquéd and sewn together. This method may have been used because the maker was familiar with block quilting or because it utilized smaller pieces for the ground.

Straw Matting

            Mats woven from straw or grass were recommended for summer flooring. These can be made by hand or manufactured. Manufactured matting included. Canton and Indian matting were woven in strips. The edges were either turned under of bound with tape. Matting was less common in the nineteenth century than it was in the previous century. Hale suggests using Canton carpet, a straw matting, during the summer because they remain cool, are easily swept and do not retain dust.

  

  

 

 

 

Sample of sewn rug techniques for shirred rugs. From top to bottom bias-fold method; patch-shirred method – round patches on left, square patches on right;  chenille method; pleated method

 

 

A Note from the Author

            Many of us who reenact face the quandary of whether or not to take a floor covering to a historical event where we will not be staying in or presenting from a tent rather than a building. If we do decide to bring a floor covering for a temporary tent home, what kind to take?

Of course we would not take original carpeting of any kind.

Oriental or Turkey carpets are not appropriate for most people’s impressions.

Beyond that, I will admit I have mixed thoughts.

I have tried to consider what people would have taken with them at the time for traveling or for a refugee situation. I can not imagine unpacking a large carpet during a long distance journey. I also have trouble seeing an ingrain carpet or large floor cloth which is nailed to the floor with layers of materials underneath being removed for a quick retreat. If the refugee experience is a long-term one with time for real packing, the destination is likely to be a building else where not a tent. If these people did take the costly carpets from their homes, likely they would be packed for the entire journey.

When looking at the reality of mainstream reenacting where people use tents to live in for the weekend or present from tents, people are going to still want to bring a floor covering for comfort and protection from the environment. Reproduction ingrain or pile carpet appropriate for homes and other buildings costs a price most of us are not willing or able afford for an outdoor experience. Floor clothes, if made by hand, are a practical alternative in many ways. They are generally water-proof and relatively easy to clean. Some can be difficult to transport if they are large. To make a floor cloth, one needs a large enough well ventilated area to apply the layers of paint and varnish then allow the cloth to dry. List carpet, straw matting, or braided rugs are affordable but difficult to care for in wet or muddy conditions. Still a quandary.

PIECES/QUOTES TO SET OUT IN THE ARTICLE:

“Linings, whether of paper or cloth, add to the durability of a carpet. But if between them and the carpet is places a layer an inch thick of straw or dried grass (see that no sharp substances, or very stiff straws are among them, as they would cut and injure the carpet,) then the dust will sift down among the straw, which would have remained on cloth or paper to chafe and wear the web of the carpet. A layer of cotton batting or an old quilt, beneath the straw, gives elasticity to the carpet after the straw has become settled.” (Hale)

“An unpainted floor, without rugs or mats of some kind, is always a great trial to a housekeeper’s patience. It is almost impossible, with the most faithful scrubbing, to remove the traces of muddy tracks or slope from its blank surface (that sets even the shadow of a mark in the boldest relief;) and the most abject scouring is needed to keep the pitiless boards clearly clean.” (Hale)

 

Selecting a Carpet

            Some of us may have the opportunity to decorate our own home of a building for historical interpretation with reproduction carpets, rugs, or other flooring. Helene Von Resenstiel and Gail Winkler, authors of Floor Coverings for Historic Buildings suggest looking at physical evidence from the building, specific documents pertaining to the building and prior owners, and general information about similar homes and families of the time from you are working towards. Documents you could consult include wills, inventories, auctions, newspaper accounts of sales, furnishing receipts, diaries, letters, business directories, local newspaper advertisements, paintings and photographs.


Resources

Bailey, Julia W.. “Oriental Carpets” The Magazine Antiques. Discovery: April 1995; pp578-583.

Beecher, Catharine Esther. Principles of Domestic Science. New York: J.B. Ford and Co., 1871.

———-. A Treatise on Domestic Economy: For the Use of Young Ladies at Home and at School. Boston: Webb, 1843.

Bell, T. F.. Jacquard Weaving and Designing. London: Longmans, Green, 1895.

Beeton, Isabella Mary. The Book of Household Management. London: Beeton, 1863. (Available at www.books.google.com)

Confederate Receipt Book: A Compilation of Over One Hundred Receipts, Adapted to the Times. Richmond: West and Johnston, 1863. (Available at docsouth.unc.edu.)

Depew, Chauncey M. Ed. One Hundred Years of American Commerce. New York: Haynes, 1895.

French, James A.. “The Home House Carpet” The Magazine Antiques. Discovery: June 2005; pp104-111.

Gilroy, Clinton G.. The Art of Weaving. New York: Baldwin, 1844.

Hale, Anne G.. “Domestic Economy; How to Make the Home Pleasant. Chapter XVII A Chat about Carpets” The New England Farmer. Boston: Eaton, 1869

Hashagen, Joanna. “The Bernard Castle Carpet Industry” The Magazine Antiques. Discovery: June 1998, pp868-875.

Johnson, Samuel, John Walker, and Robert S. Jameson. A Dictionary of the English Language. London: W. Pickering 1828.

Kopp, Joel and Kate Kopp. American Hooked and Sewn Rugs: Folk Art Underfoot. New York: Dover, 1985.

Kraak, Deborah E.. “Ingrain Carpets” The Magazine Antiques. Discovery: January 1996, pp182-191.

A Lady. The Workwoman’s Guide. London: Simpkin, Marshall and Co., 1840. (Available at

http://books.google.com/books?id=JCsBAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA1&dq=workwoman%27s+guide#PPA201,M1)

Leslie, Eliza. Miss Leslie’s House-Book; A manual of Domestic Economy. Philadelphia: Hart, 1850.

Manufactures of the United States in 1860; Compiled from the Original Returns of the Eighth Census. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1865.

Milanesi, Enza. The Bulfinch Guide to Carpets: How to Identify, Classify, and Evaluate Antique Oriental Carpets and Rugs. Boston: Little Brown, 1993.

New York Public Library Digital Collection – Numerous Carpet design illustrations and carpet illustrations.

Parkes, William. Domestic Duties; Or, Instructions to Young Married Ladies. New York: Harper, 1831.

Robinson, Solon. How to Live, Saving and Wasting, or Domestic Economy Illustrated. New York: Fowler & Wells, 1860.

Ross, Nancy L.. “Oriental Rugs: A Primer” Consumers’ Research Magazine. Discovery: April 1988; p 14.

Mrs. S. S. AWhat Small Hands May Do. A Prize Article”. The Mother’s Assistant, Young Lady’s Friend and Family Manual Mrs. H. B. Pratt, William C. Brown, Editors, Boston: Stone & Pratt, 1851. p68-90.

Sarirn, Sophie. “The Floorcloth and Other Floor Coverings in the London Domestic Interior 1700-1800.” Journal of Design History. Oxford University Press, 2005.

Sherrill, Sarah B. Carpets and Rugs of Europe and America. New York: Abbeville, 1996.

Tariff of the Confederates States of America: Charleston: Evans & Cogswell, 1861. (available at docsouth.unc.edu.)

Turbayne, Jessie A. Hooked Rugs: History and the Continuing Tradition.  West Chester, PA: Schiffer, 1991.

Von Rosensteil, Helene and Gail Caskey Winkler. Floor Coverings for Historic Buildings: A Guide to Selecting Reproductions. Washington, D.C.: Preservation Press, 1988.

Walker, Daniel. “The Fine-Weave Carpets of India” The Magazine Antiques. Discovery: December 1997, pp824-831.

Webster, Thomas and William Parkes. An Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy. New York: Harper, 1855.

Weeks, Jeanne G. Rugs and Carpets of Europe and the Western World. Philadelphia, Chilton Book, 1969.

Wheeler, Candace. How to Make Rugs. New York: Doubleday, 1902. 

 


[i]  Sophie Sarin “The Floorcloth and Other Floor Coverings in the London Domestic Interior 1700-1800.” (Journal of Design History. Oxford University Press, 2005. )

[ii] Manufactures of the United States in 1860; Compiled from the Original Returns of the Eighth Census. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1865. According to the census data, in 1850, there were 116 carpet factories in 9 states. This number increased to 213, in 1860 in 11 states: Maine (2), New Hampshire (2), Massachusetts (11), Rhode Island (1), Connecticut (3), New York (28), Pennsylvania (137), New Jersey (10), Maryland (8), Ohio (7), and Illinois (4). Values of the carped ranged from $.42/yard from Ohio to $.91/yard from Hew Hampshire. Keep in mind these values are factory values not retail sales values. The census does not indicate which type of carpets were produce in each state or factory.

[iii] available on docsouth.unc.edu

[iv] Vicki Betts’ database is available on her website at www.uttyler.edu/vbetts. Carpets are listed under various names or twists of names for selling points. Some advertisers categorize stair carpets separately. A few mentions of camp rugs are in the database that I haven’t firmly connected with research elsewhere. One advertiser in the October 3, 1861 and October 13, 1861 Memphis Daily Appeal lists manufacturing camp rugs. A passage in the November 12, 1861 Daily Chronicle and Sentinel describes camp rugs under oil or water-proof cloth as being made so it can be filled with straw like a bed ticking.

[v] Manufactures of the United States in 1860.

[vi] Catharine Esther Beecher, Principles of Domestic Science. New York: J.B. Ford and Co., 1871. Catharine Esther Beecher, A Treatise on Domestic Economy: For the Use of Young Ladies at Home and at School. Boston: Webb, 1843. Isabella Mary Beeton, The Book of Household Management. London: Beeton, 1863. (Available at www.books.google.com) Confederate Receipt Book: A Compilation of Over One Hundred Receipts, Adapted to the Times. Richmond: West and Johnston, 1863. (Available at docsouth.unc.edu.) Anne G. Hale,  “Domestic Economy; How to Make the Home Pleasant. Chapter XVII A Chat about Carpets” The New England Farmer. Boston: Eaton, 1869. A Lady. The Workwoman’s Guide. London: Simpkin, Marshall and Co., 1840. (Available at http://books.google.com/books?id=JCsBAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA1&dq=workwoman%27s+guide#PPA201,M1) Eliza Leslie,  Miss Leslie’s House-Book; A manual of Domestic Economy. Philadelphia: Hart, 1850. Thomas Webster and William Parkes. An Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy. New York: Harper, 1855.

[vii] Leslie, 178

[viii]  Leslie 176, Beecher 305

[ix] Leslie 178

[x] Authors suggest using pieces of leather through which the carpet tacks are placed. Hale suggests having children cut up old shoe leather. This protects the carpet from wear caused be the metal tacks.

[xi] The jacquard loom was developed by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1801. The jacquard loom used pasteboard cards punched with holes corresponding to the design of the carpet or fabric being woven. The punched holed in the card tell the loom which warp threads to raise and lower on each weft pass. The power loom was initially invented in 1784/5 by Edmund Cartwright and later improved by William Horrocks in 1813.

[xii] The life of stair carpeting was extended by the method in which it was attached. A length of carpet longer then needed to cover the stairs. The carpet would be applied to the floor turn excess under at the top and/or bottom of the stair case. After a period of time, the carpet would be pulled up and relayed changing the position of the carpet by using the excess length. This method adjusted the placement of the areas of most use on the edge of the steps.

[xiii] Eliza Leslie. Miss Leslie’s House-Book; A manual of Domestic Economy. Philadelphia: Hart, 1850, 173. The higher cost of Brussels and Wilton was due to the lesser length able to be produced daily and the larger amount of wool used in Brussels and Wilton than in ingrain.

[xiv] Axminster has had different meanings at different times. According to Sherril, the term Axminster was a general term which meant English knotted pile by the 1790s. In the later eighteenth century at Moorefield  Axminster knotted pile was on of three quality classifications of knotted pile carpets, the higher being Turkey and Persia. As industrialization of carpet manufacture progressed, chenille Axminster was developed by James Templeton of Glasgow,  Scotland in 1839. This version of Axminster is what was known predominately in the mid-century. Presently, Axminster appears to be a manufactured carpet used in business and hospitality locations.

[xv] Most knotted pile carpets include a field and multiple borders. Many also included a center or corner medallion.

[xvi] Depressed and semi-depressed warps can help identify a carpet because they leave the backside of the carpet with a ridged or slightly ridged appearance.

[xvii] Clinton G Gilroy, The Art of Weaving. (New York: Baldwin, 1844, page 215.)

[xviii] There are numerous books available on Oriental or Turkey carpets. My brief descriptions are synopsizes of the descriptions in Julia Bailey’s  “Oriental Carpets” The Magazine Antiques.( Discovery: April 1995; pp578-58), The Bulfinch Guide to Carpets: How to Identify, Classify, and Evaluate Antique Oriental Carpets and Rugs.( Boston: Little Brown, 1993), and ______________________________

[xix] A palmette motif is a stylized palm leaf.

[xx] A boteh motif is either stylized or natural cone which developed from fruit and floral designs. We most commonly relate it to the tear-drop shape in paisley designs.

[xxi] The gul motif is an octagon shape which means flower in Persian or possibly family or tribe in ancient Turkish.

[xxii] According to Sherril, p29-57, Spanish knotted pile carpets began as early as the thirteenth century.

[xxiii] A Holbien design is an eight-sided geometric motif with an interior reflecting the eight sides in a floral or star pattern. This motif, along with other named carpet motives, is named after a European artist who often depicted carpets with this motif in his paintings. (Sherrill, 18).

[xxiv]  British weavers from Moorefield in the late eighteenth century learned from weavers who ran away from the French carpet center of Savonnerie. The French weavers passed down technique and design to the British weavers. The Savonnerie weavers developed their techniques and design from a seventeenth century interest in Turkey carpets.

[xxv] The well known William Morris designs are from the last quarter of the nineteenth century.

[xxvi]  Sophie Sarirn provides an outstanding look at the changing popularity of 18th century British floor coverings with a focus on floor clothes in her article “The Floorcloth and Other Floor Coverings in the London Domestic Interior 1700-1800.” (Journal of Design History. Oxford University Press, 2005) She also includes a nice description of what designs were used for floor clothes.

[xxvii]  Von Rosensteil.

[xxviii] Solon Robinson How to Live, Saving and Wasting, or Domestic Economy Illustrated. (New York: Fowler & Wells, 1860.)

[xxix] Agricultural Society reports looked at include those for Ohio, New York, and Pennsylvania for the years between 1855 and 1861.

[xxx] Mrs. S. S. AWhat Small Hands May Do. A Prize Article”(The Mother’s Assistant, Young Lady’s Friend and Family ManualMrs. H. B. Pratt, William C. Brown, Editors, Boston: Stone & Pratt, 1851. p68-90)

[xxxi] This could be due to a combination of climate, cultural, and industrial influences. In these areas cold long winters made for many winter bound months with long nights. Woolen mills were more abundant in these areas as well. 

[xxxii] Knopp

[xxxiii] An additional method used in New England at the end of the 19th century and beginning of the 20th century sews wide lengths of knitted yarn to a base. Knopp.

[xxxiv] When reading secondary sources one will see there is much debate about the actual beginnings of hooked rugs including dates, materials and origin of techniques. Knopp cites a list of modern authorities stating hooked rugs are indigenous to North America (p39). Others, such as W. W. Kent, writing in the 1930s and 1940s, believe a form of hooking fibers through a cloth base can be traced back to the 6th century. Turbayne discusses briefly a technique in 18th century Britain called ‘thrumming’ where scrap yarns are poked through a base cloth from the back.

                The dates for the beginning of the use of burlap is also undetermined due to the two decade range of time when it began being used in various parts of the world.

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