Fanciful Utility is released!

ESC Publishing and I are very excited to bring you…

Fanciful Utility: Victorian Sewing Cases & Needle-books!

This book is packed full of detailed instructions for making historically accurate sewing accessories. Each one is based on an extant example or nineteenth century directions. The 180 pages contains 117 illustrations, templates and numerous project variations, over 68 variations actually.

 

Fanciful Utility…. Major Announcement!

It is ready!

Please hop over to the Sewing Academy announcement for all the details on Fanciful Utility and how to order.

I am so excited for you all to see this book. It is 180 some pages filled with over a hundred illustrations and templates for 68 project variations.

Published in: on September 1, 2012 at 4:25 pm  Comments (2)  
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Meow

I just had to share this one from Vicki Betts’ nwspaper research…

DAILY CONSTITUTIONALIST [AUGUSTA, GA], May 23, 1861, p. 3, c. 1
Lost Cat.
            The valuable cat which we noticed a short time since as having taken up quarters at the Georgia Engine House, has been lost, strayed, or stolen.  She had on, when missed, a red leather collar, with a silver plate, on which is engraved the name of the cat, “Georgiana.”  Any person finding the animal, and leaving it with Captain T. A. Bones, at his hardware store, will be suitable rewarded.  

Published in: on August 30, 2012 at 5:09 pm  Leave a Comment  

Footwear related tid-bits

From Vicki Betts’ newspaper research:

NASHVILLE DISPATCH, October 24, 1863, p. 2, c. 2
“About Stockings.
                The Empress Eugenie, having established crinoline, has allowed her imagination to take a lower flight, and aspire to set the feminine world its fashion in the matter of stockings.  She has discarded white stockings, and wears blue and white striped, though she should have added a third color, namely, red, and then she should have the tri-color just where the legitimists would to have it like under her foot.  Can her hostility to white stockings be based on the circumstances that white is the old Bourbon color, if white can be called a color?  Certainly the change she has introduced cannot be held an improvement, white stockings being for woman the prettiest things in which they can put their pretty feet.  “A white stocking is infinitely more effective than a black one,” says Mr. Hawthorne, speaking with express reference to young women’s feet, and so forth; and few will dissent from his opinion.  It is better than any other kind of stocking.  James II, when Duke of York, preferred to green stockings, on an interesting occasion, as readers of Grammont will recollect; but he was not a disinterested judge.  Blue stockings are objects of prejudice, though Francis Jeffrey said that it mattered little how blue the stocking is, provided the petticoats be long enough to hide it; but long petticoats are a nuisance, and petticoats never can be tolerated long anywhere.  Black stockings ought to be worn only under peculiar circumstances.  Flesh-colored stockings are open to the charge of being delusive.  The yellow stocking belongs properly only to English charity boys; and the red stocking should be confined to very young people, or to persons old enough to be in their second childhood, or to cardinals.  Pink stockings are nice in their places, which are the feet of young women, but they do not show well on either middle-aged or large ladies, who are often very handsome, and therefore should have handsome footings.  In fact, the pink stocking is fit for girls only.  Grey stockings go well with grey hairs. Mixed, or speckled, or spotted, or ringed, or streaked stockings can be used for show only by children, though some of them answer for a change.  But none or all of these can displace the white stocking, which is an old favorite, and not to be put down, though occasionally it may be thrown into the back ground.  Like the hoop, it is never long out of fashion.  The French Empress will find that she has “put her foot into it” by taking it out of the white stocking, which is to women what to the garden is the white rose.”

MEMPHIS DAILY APPEAL [MEMPHIS, TN], March 3, 1861, p. 1, c. 2-3
“Ladies’ Dresses in Muddy Weather.
            It is an unpleasant sight to see the ladies on the streets, on rainy days, allow their dresses to rail in the mud.  This is unpardonable.  There is no impropriety in raising the skirts high enough to keep them out of the dirt.  There is a very unladylike prudery in refusing to raise them slightly when cleanliness requires it. It is not necessary, however, for any lady to hold her dress with her hands to keep it out of the mud.  The English woman, says an European writer, understanding these things better than we, go out walking in rain and mud, wearing long dresses, and without taking their hands from their muffs, come home with the clothing as clean as when they started.  How do they do it?  They wear skirts that do not reach lower than the ankle; short enough, in fact, to keep clear of the mud without any lifting.  The dress is worn long, but is looped up when the lady is in the street.  The loops are a late invention, and are now the fashion in Great Britain.  A woman who should go out in muddy weather without them would be considered a prude.  They are made thus:
            There is a belt of black ribbon, three quarters of an inch wide, and long enough to go around the lady’s waist, with a hook at one end and an eye at the other, as a fastening; a piece of the same kind of ribbon, three yards long, is attached to the end and the middle of the belt.  The belt is now put on with the hook and eye in front; and hanging down on each side is a loop of black ribbon, three quarters of a yard long.  When a lady is about to go out, she puts on her belt, and puts a part of the lower portion of her dress through each loop, which is thus raised into four festoons, and all of it is above the lower edge of the petticoat.
            She then walks out with her hands free, her dress clear, and her conscience at ease; and if she wishes to enter a house, she can take her dress out of the loops in an instant.  The looped dress is not only clean but graceful, and it shows a white petticoat, one of the most beautiful articles of ladies’ apparel, to much advantage.  In England, however, a white petticoat is not considered indispensable; on the contrary, scarlet woolen petticoats are much worn by most fashionable people, as are also red woolen stockings.  Indeed the white cotton stockings are the exception, and not the rule for London wear in winter.  Wool is ordinarily worn, sometimes scarlet, or scarlet with black stripes, or plaid with a variety of colors.  And then, the shoes are not of thin cloth with paper soles, but Balmoral boots, with heavy uppers and thick soles, lacing up in front, as if they were made for beings of flesh and blood, bred on roast beef, and good for real service, hard work, sturdy health and long life.  Our American women are too much in the habit of following bad fashions, and neglecting good ones.  If they will just adopt the healthful practices, as well as the expensive luxuries, of European aristocracy, it will be far better, as well as more creditable to them.  We are glad to see, however, that a correct taste is being exercised by our ladies.  They study health and comfort more than the fashions, and we may expect to see them as rosy-cheeked and robust as any of our English cousins.—Home Journal.” 

DAILY CONSTITUTIONALIST [AUGUSTA, GA], April 14, 1861, p. 3, c. 2.
            “Protection for Woman’s Foot.—Women must go much in the open air at all seasons of the year, or become pale and feeble.  But in order to do this, their boots must be radically changed.
            As preliminary to this greatly needed reform, we must first get rid of the strange hallucination that where a strong man needs cowhide, a feeble woman needs only morrocco; that where a strong man needs an inch of hard, impervious sole, a feeble woman needs only a quarter inch of soft, spongy sole; that where the strongest Irishman needs thick woolen socks, a delicate, consumptive lady needs only a gauzy silk stocking.  This singular madness must be first scattered.
            But surely one need not seriously discuss such a matter.  If women must go much in the open air at all seasons of the year, (and no one with five grains of common sense doubts it,) then it needs no argument to show that women should wear as much protection on their feet as men find it necessary to wear.  Neither can it require much argument to show that those rubbers which prove so pernicious to the feet of men, must, to say the least, be quite as unhealthy for women.
            Prescriptions for a Fashionable Lady.—Madame, allow me to prescribe for you.  I have had a long experience in the management of delicate women, and believe I can give you some important advice.  For the present, I prescribe only for your feet:
            1.  Procure a quantity of woolen stockings, not such as you buy at the store, under the name of lamb’s wool, that you can read a newspaper through, but the kind that your Aunt Jerusha in the country knits for you, thick as a board, that will keep you dry and warm, in spite of wind and weather.
            2.  If you want to be really thorough, change them every morning, having the fresh ones hang by the fire during the night.
            3.  Procure thick calf skin boots, double uppers and triple soles, and wear them from the first of October until the first of April.  Make frequent applications of some good oil blacking.
            4.  Avoid rubbers altogether, except a thick layer, which you should have cemented to the bottom of the soles.
            5.  Hold your feet in cold water an inch deep, five or six minutes before going to bed, and have them rubbed hard with some one’s naked hand.
            6.  Now, Madame, go much out of doors at all seasons, and believe me not only will your feet have a good circulation, but, as a consequence, your head will be relieved of its pain and congestion, and your heart be relieved of its accumulations.—Boston Journal of Physical Culture.  ”

(Hmmm… found the text limit when posting from my phone.)

Published in: on August 30, 2012 at 5:08 pm  Comments (1)  

Millinery Ribbon Talk

I’ll be talking about millinery ribbons and displaying ribbons from my collection this Saturday, August 25th, at the Genesee Country Village for the “Wrapped Up in Silk” event.   I’ll be in the Romulus Seminary on the village square in the morning. Stop in to see the ribbons and say “hi”.

Published in: on August 21, 2012 at 12:12 pm  Comments (2)  
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Shawl progress

The embroidery for the shawl is progressing, slowly. I’m working on the leaf layer.

image

Published in: on August 9, 2012 at 6:41 pm  Leave a Comment  
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LeMode to Godeys… A Bag

It is rather fun to see how an item or story appears from one publication to the next. I’ve been amused time and time again by how the accounts of shawl production numbers evolve into more and more flattering accounts. Sometimes the subtle or not so subtle evolution takes place over a couple months, other times over years.

This week, I found myself looking at an illustration in a May 1865 Godey’s convinced I’ve seen this travel bag before. In fact I did. About a year back, or so, maybe two, Marta, I’m pretty sure it was Marta, sent me a bag from La Mode’s July 1864 edition. This one was called a “Sac-Portefeuille”. A year later, across the water, the same bag was called “A Travelling Hand-Bag.” The description gives the option of making it of leather or canvas:

Our pattern is in dark brown leather, varnished on both sides, but may also be made of drab-colored canvas, in which case a small pattern looks well worked over it in cross-stitch. The bag is cut out all in one piece, with the exception of the sides. Each part is bound with silk braid, firmly stitched, after which it is easy to sew the different parts together. The leather handles, which are finished off with tassels, are fastened to the bag by small straps put on with steel buttons. The rosette in the centre is made with stiff ribbon; a buckle of cut steel is fastened in the middle of it; a loop of silk elastic is sewn on under the rosette, and fastens to a large steel button placed on the lower half of the bag.

I do have a similar bag started in leather, which I think I will be taking apart and starting over with this version once I find it.  I also think I want to work this up in canvas.

Published in: on August 2, 2012 at 4:58 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Skimming Travel Accessories

I have been reading through the Encyclopedia of Victorian Needlework reprinted from the 1882 second edition. (Thank you, Pat.) Along with the helpful explanations and definitions, there are several illustrations of travel accessories. Just about everyone screams “make me.” I need to look each of these up to see when and where they originate from to determine if they will be appropriate for my travel impression. While I do this, I’ll be looking for information who may have made this item, who may have used it, when it was used, how it was used, etc.

(My apologies for those images which refuse to load right-side up.)

 This Railway Rug, is the only non-container of the bunch. It is essentially a blanket. I need to look up the phrase to see when it came into use.

This “Travelers Wallet” is a larger case than the word “wallet” would suggest. Laying open it measures 48 inches by 23 inches. The items shown in the illustration make me think this may be for a man. But, I can easily see a parasol and shawl or fan tucked into this case.

This “Traveling Case for Wraps and Bed Linens”  seems as thought it would also be rather large. I do not know if this would be inside the trunk or larger travel bag intended for the evening. If the traveler was traveling through the night on a railcar, then she may have it with her in her larger travel bag. If she were staying at an inn, it would more likely be in a trunk.

This case for medicine is quite interesting and very tempting to make. It would make a great discussion piece. It would also be very useful to have on had with Benadryl and pepto or headache meds.

This “Luncheon Case” looks like it would be quite handy. It reminds me of the smaller lunch case from Beeton’s book.

This “Bolster case” has to be shared for its similarity to the “Dufflebag”. I suspect this illustration is later in the century, as with some of these others, but need to look into that.

This simple “Umbrella Case” would be very useful. I keep my parasols and umbrella in a simple cloth tube-shaped bag for storage. This would give a nice safe place to put a damp or wet umbrella to keep it from getting other things wet. (Do remember to take it out to dry.)

Published in: on July 29, 2012 at 2:51 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Practical or Not Travel Bags

In making my list of bags and such for my travel impression, I can’t help but think about which ones were seen as the most practical by the original cast, which they made but found were not as useful as they thought, and which were purely fancy.

Let us start with a fairly standard travel bag. This one comes from one of Beeton’s books. Pulling from her description: “This pattern is of the ordinary shape of travelling-bags, but it is very prettily worked…. The embroidered part measures 14 inches in its widest part, and is 11 inches deep. The bag is lined with light brown silk, and made up with a steel clasp.” With her measurements of the embroidered section, this bag may be 20-28 inches wide and 15 to 20 deep. This is a fairly good-sized bag capable of holding the day’s necessities of travel or even the set of night-clothes suggested by some advice writers. She does indicate the sides are made of java canvas. I will have to look into this material more, but I would be concerned about how water-proof or not this material (thus bag) is.

Comparatively,  here is the Pouche Pompador from the December 1864 edition of Godey’s. This is a pretty and interesting travel bag I’ve wanted to make since it showed up in Virginia Mescher’s “Traveling Tips for Ladies”. This bag is described as having the shape of a large purse. Continuing ” The bag is entirely lined, a pocket is formed on each side, and a slit is made in the centre of the bag exactly in the same way as in a purse; two rings are slipped over, and the slit is further fastened by pearl buttons and silk loops…. These pockets are very convenient to hold the numberless small articles which a lady always wishes to have by her during a journey.” It is the “small articles” that is catching me when thinking about the slit in the meeting point of the pockets. If this meeting point is narrow, the size of the items that can fit inside either pocket would be limited. I don’t know about you, but I hate digging for small items in a bag. If the meeting points are relatively wide, then larger, though not big, items may fit.  I do have an alternative idea for the openings. But, I would really like to hear from those who have made this bag to see what they find.

This next one has me thinking ‘maybe… maybe not’. A few versions of this show up in the 50s and 60s. This particular one comes from Godey’s in November of 1860. The description reads: “We direct the attention of our lady reads to a little article which will be found an extremely useful travelling companion, and which, by the exercise of female taste and industry, may be rendered no less elegant than useful. We allude to the worked plaid strap of which we furnish two illustrations; one with the plaid, and the other without. Plaid straps made of plain leather have long been used by gentlemen, and their utility is fully acknowledged by travellers. These straps are much used by ladies, who impart to them a superior degree of elegance by various kinds of ornamental work. They are available not merely for plaids or shawls, but for securing together umbrellas, parasols, and other small articles, which, in the hurry of railway travelling, changing carriages, etc. are liable to be dropped and lost. The strap from which our engraving is copied is made of Danish leather, and the ornaments are executed in beadwork, or embossing in colored silk.” Nifty? Yes. Practical? Maybe. I don’t know if I want to fuss with strapping together my parasol, umbrella, shawl, etc if there is a chance in departing one of the articles may be needed with no place to easily unstrap and restrap. I would rather take them out of a bag. Since many of the similar items are described primarily for shawls, I am concerned about keeping the shawl dry and clean. Yet this could be useful. So, it sits firmly in the maybe-maybe not category.

Now, as my battery almost runs out…. The “duffle-bag” travel bag as we’ve named it. I have to say I love this bag. But, I’ll have to say more about it later.

Published in: on July 27, 2012 at 7:11 pm  Comments (3)  
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Travel Impression – New Pintrest Board

As part of my focus on a travel impression, I’ve started a new board on Pintrest for items related to this impression. As it grows, you will find a variety of travel bags including carpet bags, trunks, travel attire, and other details. Hopefully, this will be useful for some and just enjoyable for others.

(ps – I’m also in the pre-planning stages of some ‘make me happy’ clothing that may go a tad over the top.)

Published in: on July 22, 2012 at 3:58 pm  Leave a Comment  
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