For those who have not yet seen it, I rather like this image:
(Godey’s 1863)
Alas, A Delay – NB Sewing Journal
It seems getting time to take measurements from my husband when we have dead opposite schedules is nearly impossible. The hour I see him each night is just enough for him to eat and get ready; not enough to have him stand still for the measuring tape.
So, alas, a delay in sewing for the Netherfield Ball. I am determined I to work on his clothing next rather than dive into my dress. This is because I’m worried I’ll have my clothes done and his not started. Not good. I am also determined with the upcoming week break from school to get his measurements. Then I will get them on to paper. (I also have to get my giant roll of newsprint out of mom’s storage.)
In the meantime, I am happily enjoying making straw bonnets. I have a lovely 50s bonnet I am making for a west coast friend. I love the shape of 50s bonnets. The straw lines up so well, creating great lines along the top of the crown and around the brim. (I am such a millinery nerd.) I’ve also been toying with an 80’s shape. I’ll have a blocking/sizing night soon. I love that part. There are several shapes calling to me right now.
The Millinery Market
This passage from Twelve Letters to a Young Milliner says a good deal about the mindset of women in terms of fashion and shopping. The passage comes from an 1883 advice manual for new milliners set in the form of letters.
“With this general idea of the quality of your stock the next question that will confront you will be this, “Where shall I buy?” If it were a stock of soap or of sugar, of boots of of bedsteads, the place they came from would be of little consequence. If the soap took out the dirt, the sugar sweetened the tea, the books kept out the water, and the bedsteads did not fall to pieces, it would matter but little to the customer whether they came originally from New York or from New Orleans, from Boston of from Buffalo; but when it comes to articles of wearing apparel into whos manufacture taste and fashion enter, the customer does wich to know wheterh they are bough in th ewoods or in the center of civiliazation. In articles of Millinery, in which fashion is so large an element, it is of the highest importance that they come from the center of fashion. Present to your customers two Hats, both of the same style and quality; mark the one, New York; the other, Smithville, which will be sold first? There is but one answer to the question. Even the woman that buys a Hat but once in five years, if one ther be, will choose the Hat marked New York. Now, you buy your goods to sell; therefore, buy goods that will sell. You have neither the time nor the money, nor is it your duty to teach a benighted generation that Smitheville goods are superior or equal to New York goods. A Milliner’s life is too short for any such Quitotic enterprise. This prejudice is favore of New York Millinery may be without foundation, may be unfair, but it exists; and a beginner in the trade, if she desires success, must yeild to that which is useless to resist. If it becomes noised abroad, in the beginning of your business career, that your goods are out of date, that they are old style, in a word unfashionable, you may as well dispose of your stock at acution and go into the book-peddling business. Let your neighbors see that your boxes and bundles have the New York mark upont them and your reputation for being in the height of fashion will be estableished. That such reputation is neede for success, you will not deny.”
The same guide continues… A millinery saleswoman – “She will know the names of the braids used in Hats where and how they are made. She will inform herself about the reputation for taste acquired by different manufacturers and wholesale dealers. Her knowledge of artificial flowers, the materials used, mode of manufacture, will be as extensive as her reading can make it. It is said that the female nature has a large share of curiosity in its make-up. Some customers desire to know all these things. If they find your assistant able to give them this information in a pleasant and an agreeable manner they feel sure that you understand the business and that what you say is so and not guessed at.
Again, this knowledge of the goods enables the assistant to set forth their advantages in a stronger manner than she would otherwsie be able to do. This inspires confidence in the buyer, and the occasional buyer soon becomes a regular customer through the influence of your intelligent assistant.
Railway Photographs
Today we have a longer story looking at travel: “Railway Photographs” published in The Continental Monthly, 1862.
Click the title for the PDF, Please.
Fanciful Utility – Free Spring Template – A New Seashell
In celebration of Spring, I have a new, Free, template for is post is for all my Fanciful Utility readers out there. Seashells were a very popular shape for needle-books and pin cushions through the nineteenth century. This sweet, silk seashell is based on a beautiful original needle-book done in blues. The original shell was constructed in a now faded dark blue silk, trimmed in a deep blue embriodery and similarly colored ribbon.
My interpretation uses a soft, pale green that remindes me of the seaside and a spring-like gold for the embroidery. I opted for a chain stitch at the top to tie it together until I find the perfect color silk ribbon.
With your copy of Fanciful Utility in hand, you can make this lovely needle-book using this Free Template (in PDF). 
Don’t own Fanciful Utility: Victorian Sewing Cases and Needle-Books yet? Order yours by visiting ESC Publishing.
“The Musical Wife” – What do You See?
I had picked this sterioview up last summer with the thought it would find its way into my new shawl book. Since then, I’ve found a far, far better image, bumbing this from the publication list. This means I can share it here and we can play a game of “what do you see”
Take a look at the image and comment below on what you see.
Of course, I see the shawl draped on the arm of the chair to our left. This looks to have a wide border, possibly on opposite ends.
NB Sewing Journal – Underpinnings Finished
I finished my shift/chemise, stays and bodiced petticoat last night. The last button-hole was finished as bedtime settled in. As soon as I was home from work today, I was able to try everything on. 🙂 This evening is test night to make sure everything fits and is comfortable. I really wanted to share photos. But, as soon as I got my chemise and stays on, my phone’s battery died. So, a summary instead. Everything is quite comfortable. There isn’t much I can say about the chemise, other than it draws up quite nicely. The stays are a comfort level that may just threaten my mid-century clothes to banishment. Really. This one is that comfortable even with the “shelf.” I figure I’m giving them quite the wearing test as I’m curled up on the couch. It is so nice to have this support without having a large underwire digging into my side. I don’t have as much “separate” as I know is ideal. I’ll be more able to achieve that with a transitional pair for my next set. Yes, I’ve already decided there will be more of this clothing. (see below) Now, the bodiced petti…. can we say “C.O.M.F.Y.”? I did a gored skirt with a 84″ hem. LOVE it. This skirt is so very comfortable.
Adjustments:
– I still need to solve the lacing problem. I couldn’t get the 1/4″ round cord through. Right now I have crochet cotton laced in with a bodkin. Either, I need to find a strong, narrow lace I can use with the bodkin or I need to make the holes bigger. – The waist of the bodiced petti needs to come in about an inch, maybe two, to fit more snuggly. I don’t think it should be loose. I need to decide between a drawstring, darts in the bodice front or taking it out of the sides. So, the question would be – Did they use darts?Next steps:
– Decide between drafting and draping my bodice. With the duct tape dummy oops, this is a looming decision. – Drape or draft a toile of my bodice. – Get Dan’s measurements and do some rough sketches of his clothing.You know how I mentioned more clothes above? Well, I keep dreaming up dress ideas for the uber-awesome white and green sheer a truely lovely someone sent me. I also started thinking up clothes for Lily.
A Bonnet Cover
Ooops. This wasn’t supposed to post until this weekend. But given the weather I am about to venture out into, I’ll leave it.
From Eliza Leslie’s House Book, (Philadelphia, 1844)
A BONNET-COVER – When travelling in dry weather on a road that is likely to be dusty, you may effectually protect your bonnet from injury, by taking with you a cover for it. To make this cover, get a yard of white glazed cambric muslin, and cut it into the form of a large straight hood; gathering it close at the back of the head upon a small circular piece about the size of a half-dollar. Slope it away at the sides of the neck, and put a case with a drawing-string of fine tape along the edges of the front: the string to tie at the side.
If you commence your journey by water, you can roll up this bonnet-cover, and keep it in your reticule while in the steam-boat; putting it over your bonnet, and drawing round your face, just before you get into the vehicle in which you are to ride. You will find when you take it off, that it has effectually screen your bonnet and its ribbons from the dust and sun. It must, of course, be made very large and loose, that it may not flatten or discompose the trimming.
We have seen bonnet-covers of green silk; but, if it chances to get wet, the green dye will run down and stain the bonnet. This same thing may happen, if the cover is of coloured muslin. White is undoubtedly the best for this purpose; and when soiled, it can be easily washed.
After being out in the damp, do not immediately put away your bonnet; but wipe the front and crown with a clean handkerchief, and put some wadding or tissue paper into the bows, to keep them from losing their shape: taking it out, however, as soon as the ribbon is perfectly dry. Also, never put away a shawl or cloak while it is in the least damp. Do not always fold a shawl on the same creases, lest it wear out along the wire edges of the folds. When you take off a veil, stretch it evenly on the bed, and let it remain there an hour or two, in case there should be any dampness about it.
When ever the atmosphere is cloudy or humid, it is well to take the feathers out of your bonnet before you go out, lest they loose their curl, or their whiteness.
EDIT TO ADD: Deanna asked for a sketch of my interpretation. This is what I picture from Eliza Leslie’s description. I would want a bavolet/curtain to cover that part of my bonnet as well. I would think the gathers of the light weight fabric allow for the least amount of weight on the bonnet decorations underneith. I’m not sure how well this bonnet cover would do in any amount of wind or moisture. Honestly, I am still bothered by the recommendations of traveling caps for men but bonnet covers for women. I’ve been looking at paintings of travel scenes trying to determine what each woman has on her head. A traveling hood seems far, far more practical then a delicate fashion bonnet.
Maple in the Kitchen
Okay, this post is less about what I’m up to and more about what Mom and Lily are up to. This week their kitchen will be filled with maple cooking as they get their entries ready for the “Cooking With Maple” Contest at the Genesee Country Village.
Some of last year’s Maple baked goods recipies
This contest is part of their Maple Fest taking place last weekend and this weekend. Guest can walk through the woods to see the tapped maple tree, visit maple camp where they will learn about boiling down turning the maple trees’ sap into syrup and sugar as well as visit with village craftsman to see how the tools, buckets, troughs are made. There will be tastings too.
I know mom has something interesting she’ll be entering as she bought a most interesting ingredient yesterday. Of course, both mom’s and Lily’s entries are a secret until after the contest.
EDIT : Lily won first place! Check out GCV’s Blog for photos and the winners.
A Springy New Series – Another Look at Millinery
As we move into spring, Oh, Happy Spring, my Saturday posts are going to move from travel to millinery. Don’t worry, I am continueing my travel research. The forthcoming millinery posts will primarily focus on theories, ideas, trends and storys revolving around millinery rather than just straight fashion.
To start, here is a passage from “Aesthetics of Dress” from Blackwood’s Edinburgh Magazine, 1845. It takes a different look at bonnets than we are accustom.
Bonnets, however, have more to do with women than with men; and we defy our fair friend to prove that these articles of dress, about which they are always so anxious (a woman – a regular genuine woman, reader – will sacrifice a great deal for a bonnet), are either useful or ornamental. And first, for their use; if they were good for anything, they would protect the head from the cold, wet, and sunshine. Now, as far as cold is concerned, they do so to certain degree, but not a tenth part so well as something else we shall talk of by and by: as for wet – what woman ever trusted her bonnet in a shower of rain? What woman does not either pop up her parasol, or green cotton umbrella; of if she had not these female arms, ties over it her pocket-handkerchief, in a vain attempt to keep off the pluvious god? Women are more frightened at spoiling their bonnets than any other article of dress; let them but once get their bonnets under the dripping eaves of and umbrella, and, like ostriches sticking their heads under ground, they think their whole persons safe – we appeal to any man who has walked down Cheapside with his eyes open, on a rainy day, whether this be not true. And then for the sun – who among the ladies trusts to her bonnet for keeping her face from freckling? Else why all the paraphernalia of parasols? why all these endless patents for sylphides and sunscreens of every kind, form, and colour? why can you never meet a lady in a summer-walk without one of these elegant little contrivances in her hand? Comfort, we apprehend, does not reside in a bonnet: look at a lady travelling, whether in a carriage or a railroad diligence – she cannot for a moment lean back into one of the nice pillowed corners of the vehicle, without running imminent risk of crushing her bonnet: her head can never repose; she has no travelling-cap, like a man, to put on while she stows away her bonnet in some convenient place; the stiffened gauze, or canvass, or paper, of which its inner frame-work is composed, rustles and crackles with every attempt at compression; and a pound’s worth or two of damage may be done by a gentle tap or squeeze. Women, if candid, would allow that their bonnets gave them much more trouble than comfort, and that they have remained in use solely as conventional objects of dress – we will not allow, of ornament. The only position in which a bonnet is becoming – and even then is only the modern class of bonnets – is, when they are viewed full front; further, as we observed before, they make a nice encadrement for the face; and, with their endless adjuncts of lace, ribands, and flowers, they commonly set off advantage. But it is only the present kind of bonnet that does so; the old-fashioned, poking, flaunting, square-cornered bonnet never became any female physiognomy; it is only the small, tight, come-and-kiss-me style of bonnet now worn by ladies, that is at all tolerable. All this refers, however, only to that portion of the fairer half of the human race which is in the bloom of vigour of youth and womanhood; those that are still in childhood, or are sinking into the vale of years, cannot have a more inappropriate, more useless, covering for the head than what they now wear, at least in England. Simplicity, which should be the attribute of youth, and dignity, which should belong to age cannot be compatible with a modern bonnet: fifty inventions might be made of coverings more suitable to these two stages of life.
I also want to add – Isn’t it interesting what we find inspiring or what spurs ideas for us? This particular passage takes a very different look at bonnets than we are used to. Within it is a basic notion that has been bugging me for some time now in my research. The way this gentleman phrases this concept has planted an idea, more like framework, in my head. Yes, I am being vague on purpose. This framework could either become a facinating conference presentation or blog series. Which is tbd.
If I Had My Own Blue Box: 
