If I Had My Own Blue Box:

We often call the rolled and folded sewing cases a “Housewife” or “Huswif”. Here is a perspective that considers the phrase to be old-fashioned. (Yes, the name is still used through the era. There just may be a connotation we are not yet understanding.)

There is an old-fashioned kind of pincushion, which looks rather clumsy, but it is extremely convenient for a journey. The cushion is nearly an inch thick; no pasteboard is put on the outside, in order that there may be more room for pins; the inside is a piece of cardboard, covered with silk; a round hole is cut in it, and a piece of cardboard, just big enough for a thimble, let in. Little bars, stitched across on each side of the thimble-hole, form places for scissors and bodkin. All this should be arranged before the stuffing is put in, and the bit of silk for the outside fitted; it is very inconvenient doing it afterwards. The pincushion forms but half of the establishment. Flannel leaves are put in for needles, and the outside is of covered silk, with a little pocket for thread. This pocket consists of a plain piece of silk, nearly the size of the pasteboard, fastened to the outside by means of little gores at each end.

What used to be made in old times, and called housewives, are similar to the travelling pincushion. These had a piece of silk, the same width as the cushion, and a little more than a quarter of a yard long, neatly stitched into compartments to answer the purpose of thread papers. This was rolled round the cushion, and fastened by a small loop and button. Housewives were very useful things, but they are out of fashion now.(The Girl’s Own Book)

This is in both the 1858 edition (here) and the 1833 edition (here).

Today, I have two doll millinery pieces to offer in my Etsy shop. The first is a fashionable hat in pale straw. Second, a dome shaped hat similar to the one I just offered yesterday in a human size.

Here, Cali models the first hat. This is a fashionable style suited for the 1850s or early 1860s. Cali says this will be best for a doll with an 8″ to 9″ circumference head. Her head is just a bit over 9″

The second hat is era versatile. The round, dome shape appears in multiple eras including the 1840s and early 1860s. Cali suggests this hat is best for a doll smaller than she is, with a head that measures between 7″ and 7.5″. The hat stand displayed measure 7.5″

Currently available in my Etsy shop.

Add a lace or net veil around this brim, and this hat will give excellent sun dimming for the eyes.

It isn’t very often I include photos of myself with the hats I offer. But, I think this helps give a good idea of the look. I measure 21.5″ at my hairline, where this hat sits. The brim reaches over my eyes. From the front, you can see I can still see easily without the brim covering my face. (If I tilted the hat further forward, I would have even more coverage.)

Here is an assortment of images showing this shape with varied depths of the brim.

Illustrations – Godey’s Magazine 1862. Photographs – circa 1840s.

A Walk on the Beach, Augustus Leopold Egg, 1855-60.

Standing in my sewing room tonight I was kinda dazed by current events. I pulled out one of the carry totes that had packed up since last fall. Opening it, I found I had an abundance of pincushion pieces.

American Girl’s Book, Eliza Leslie, 1854.

One set in particular stood out. They were the pieces for a common pincushion of the mid-nineteenth century. They are flannel filled centers wrapped in ribbon, some with pasteboard. Directions can be found in two of the popular girls’ books, The Girl’s Own Book and American Girl’s Book.

At the right, are the directions from Eliza Leslie. The simple cushion calls for the flannel interior to be rolled tightly.

Below, are the directions from Mrs. Child. Her version calls for covering pasteboard circles first. Then cutting the flannel interior layers in the shape of the pasteboard. This is the version I have many pieces cut out for. In my case, I did opt for layers of cotton and wool batting instead of using the harder to find wool flannel. If I had all the time in the world, I would paint the silk sides as she suggests.

The forms into which pincushions have been manufactured of late, are without number. The most common consists of two circles of pasteboard, covered with silk, with narrow ribbon sewed between , and stuffed with bits of flannel cut to the size of the pasteboard. Cotton is very bad for stuffing, because the pins enter it with difficulty; and, when the cushions are of such shape that they can be stuffed with flannel, it is much preferable to wool. When sewed with silk of a very decided colour, and the stitches taken with great regularity, an edge, resembling delicate cord, may be produced.

Some cut the pasteboard into oblong pieces, and then paint rabbits or squirrels, of a size suitable to cover each side, and, after the cushion is made, they paste them on; the place for the pins then comes between the two rabbits. Others paint a cat seated, for each side, and make a cushion of such a shape as will fit in well. Some cut the figures of the cats in black velvet, and put little spangles for eyes. I have seen butterflies painted and pasted on each side, in the same way. Some do the paintings on rice-paper and put them on cardboard, cute out precisely in the shape of the figure. They look rather rich , but are more easily injured. A very pretty pincushion may be made in the shape of a small easy chair. (The Girl’s Own Book, by Mrs. Child. Child, Lydia Maria. 1858.)

Very worth mentioning is what Child calls “bachelor’s pincushions.” I see what are often called pinwheels in antique shops. They range from simple circles to pretty shapes. I’ve always found these to be a nice option for carrying pins in a traveling sewing case. Knowing that at one point, they were considered appropriate for men to carry in their pockets is quiet interesting.

What are called “bachelor’s pincushions,” are made very thin, so that gentlemen can carry them in their pockets with convenience. No margin of ribbon, or taste, is put between the bits of pasteboard, in making these cushions. Two round pieces of pasteboard are covered with silk, and neatly sewed together with one or two thin pieces of flannel between them. Of course, merely one circle of pins can be put in. (The Girl’s Own Book, by Mrs. Child. Child, Lydia Maria. 1858.)

Available in my Etsy Shop.

This black straw hat is a fashionable 1860’s style appropriate for the Civil War era. The brim dips front and back in an elegant shape. The crown is squared with a slightly rounded edge.

This hat will fit an average to large size head. It is made to sit high on your head. I suggest lining this hat as the straw is rough inside and the dye may rub in humid conditions.

You have your straw form from myself, Danielle, Pam, Kim or Vivian… Now you want to finish and decorate it.

Recommended Shopping List:

• Danielle’s book from Timely Tresses: Finishing a Straw Bonnet Form
• Cotton net to line your bavolet
• Fine cotton or silk net (bobbinette), or silk organza or lace for your frill/cap
• Fine cotton voile or silk taffeta to line your brim
• 3 yards minimum of wide (silk or quality rayon) ribbon (2 yards for ties, 1 yard for bavolet, additional for decoration/bows) (silk taffeta is also an option for the bavolet.)
• 1 yard of 3/4″-1″ wide silk or cotton sateen ribbon for ties.
• Ribbon and laces of choice for decoration
• Flowers and feathers of choice for decoration
• 1/2″-3/4″ wide velvet for optional stay

Recommended Reading List:

• “Understanding the Ribbon Bavolet“
• “Bonnet Stays“
• “Life of a Straw Bonnet – Cleaning & Care“
• “On the Suitability of Colors for Lining Bonnets“
• “Bonnet Trimming Resources” (a bit dated, 2011, but should be good.)
• “Millinery Vocabulary“

And just in case =  Millinery Care and First Aid

(I already had an original article on Finishing a bonnet scheduled. It will be up in a couple weeks.)