Today’s Millinery – Fancy Edge Hat

Today, I offer a millinery piece I have looked forward to making and I am having a hard time letting go of. It will be available in my Etsy shop as soon as I pick the price and hit the button.

IMG_9027This hat is trimmed in a fancy vintage plait. I have all of the plait that was offered, but there wasn’t much of it. It combined a scroll of twisted straw threads and arrangements of flat straw.

This stylish fashion hat is made with a beautiful natural straw with speckling in the plait and a vintage fancy straw edge.

The crown is flat on the top. It is sized to fit an average size head. The brim is fashionably shaped, dipping in the front and back.

**Full disclosure – The fancy straw plait is backed with a faux horsehair that did not exist in the 19th century. I have stiffened the fancy plait to hold the shape of the hat. I highly suggest not wearing it in the rain or holding the hat by the edge.**

IMG_9029

 

Published in: on March 15, 2016 at 5:20 pm  Leave a Comment  
Tags:

How To Make a Bonnet and Cap

Godey’s, November 1856

How To Make a Bonnet and Cap.

Drawn Bonnets.—Have a plain willow shape ready, the size and pattern you wish your bonnet to be; measure round the edge, and put a pencil mark to denote half of the bonnet; measure your silk, or whatever material you are going to make your bonnet out of, on the edge of the shape, and let it be five inches longer to allow for fullness. This quantity is quite sufficient. Measure your material selvage way, regulate the edge of the bonnet very nicely; the fullness must be even, the same as putting on a shirt collar, and neat stitches are required. In drawn bonnet-making, do not cut your sewing silk; wind it, and have your needlefuls the length of the silk or material you are going to run; do not fasten off your silk at the end of the runner, as it requires drawing up before the bonnet is finished; halve the material of your bonnet, before you begin to run with white cotton, all the way down; when you have done the tucks in your bonnet material, place the silk, or anything else you may be making in a bonnet of, on the willow shape, and cut a small piece out at the ears to shape it like the willow shapes; never mind fastening off your ends of silk—they will be all right before you finish your bonnet. The tucks in the silk are to be run just as you would a petticoat or a child’s frock. Four or five are enough. When your bonnet is run, and ready to put on the shape, it ought to measure seven or eight inches deep, according to the wearer. Old persons generally require a larger bonnet than young people. Try you hand in making a bonnet in a piece of book muslin or something common at first. The size of the tucks varies according to the taste of fashion a little. They are now worn all sizes. Some bonnets have only three tucks with wires in them, others five. Before you get forward in your running, try the wire you are going to use, “and do not do what is too often done” – run the tucks, and then find the wire will not do. The wire had always better be too small than too large; in fact, the runners must be loose on your wire. The cane or whalebone for drawn bonnets I have never seen used. A wire, covered with cotton, is to be bought any size you wish. The wire must be very hard and firm for the edge, and soft and pliable for all the rest of your bonnet. Attend to this, or you will make people’s heads ache. I would not give two pence for the prettiest bonnet ever turned out if the wires were not light and soft. All these things only require attention; for little things I have no doubt some of my young readers think them in comparison to the look of a bonnet. Many persons can tell you what part of town a bonnet has been made in simply by the foundation—I mean the wires and supports of the bonnet. If you wish to make a drawn bonnet of two colors or two pieces join them together before you begin; and now be careful, joining the work strong; and let the tuck you put in hid where it is joined, not because you wish anyone to think it not joined, but for neatness. When you have run the tucks in your bonnet, before you begin to put in your wires, cut the piece of silk that at the ends the exact shape of your pattern-frame; this after the wires are to be put in; and now place the silk on half of the willow shape;tack the silk, not the wire is in, on the shape, all around the edge of the bonnet; now pull your wires to the right size, that is, exactly like the shape; having done this, now fasten the short wires that come down at the ears to the pieces of chip and wire that you have run through the edge of the bonnet.

When the wire that goes in the edge of your bonnet must go quite round the back, and cross a little. It is almost the whole support of your bonnet. When the wires are all firmly fastened, you may now draw up your sewing-silk that is in the tucks. Be careful not to break them. You will find our bonnet looking better for being run well, and then drawn tight. All this must be done before you take your drawn bonnet off the willow frame. You will require five supports got ready to put in. They must be silk wire, rather firm, and the color of your bonnet. They should be cut one inch longer than the bonnet, so as to allow a small piece to be turned down, top and bottom. Put one piece in the middle of your bonnet, and the remaining four at equal distances. These wires are called support’s, as they help to keep the bonnet in shape. Having reached so far with your bonnet, bind all round the back from ear to ear, and bow put on our curtain. In putting on your curtain, draw the thread at the top to the size of ten inches, and make this firm; place half your curtain to the half of the back of your bonnet; now sew it on; mid the fullness is equal.

If you wish to make a drawn bonnet with puffs, begin the bonnet just in the same way. When you have made a runner or tuck, push up a little of your silk; a very little will do. You require a piece of net underneath your silk. This net must be the size of the piece of the silk. When you turn down the first hem, put the net inside, and run it with the silk. The use of this piece of net is that you may full your silk on it, keeping the net plain. These kind of bonnets require a lining; it should be a little full. Always bear in mind that two or three inches are a good deal of fullness in millinery, in silk, net , or anything else. When you put linings in any bonnet, puff net on the lining before you put it on the bonnet. If you put more than one inch inside your bonnet, put it on the lining before you put the lining in. The bonnet is lined after the outside is done so as to keep it as fresh as possible.

 

 

https://archive.org/stream/godey1856#page/432/mode/1up

 

Published in: on March 14, 2016 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment  
Tags:

Today’s Millinery

Today, I have three hats to share, one garden hat and two doll hats. Each are available in my Etsy shop.

Garden or Croquet Hat, Trimmed in Lilac Purple Velvet

EDIT TO ADD: Take a look at this photo. I saw it after making the hat. It makes me want to do another, with beads this time.

This fashionable hat will be perfect for a mid-nineteenth century garden party or game of croquet. Made of a narrow, light color natural straw, this hat’s brim curves down all the way around. It is trimmed with Violet Purple velvet ribbon.

The ribbon is one of Hyman Hendler‘s taffeta back velvet ribbons. While this is a modern fiber ribbon, it is a quality ribbon. I believe it is color #609 Violet.

Inside, the crown is lined with a white cotton sateen ribbon. I added cotton sateen ties to tie behind your hair.

This hat fits my average head that measures 21.5″ around at the hairline. It may fit larger and smaller heads slightly differently.

Fashionable Doll Hat

Cali loves this hat with its shapely brim dipping in front of her face. She suggests it be worn by a doll with a similar size head (9 3/8″) or slightly larger. She also recommends a lining and ribbon ties to help it stay on.

Small Doll Hat

Cali is holding the next hat because it is far to small for her. This small hat best for a doll with a 5″ or 6″ head. The crown is about 6″ around inside. Cali suggests a lining and ribbon ties for under the hair to help it stay on your doll’s head.

**Cali is also telling me it is far past time for her to wear something  other than her Christmas dress.**

Published in: on March 13, 2016 at 1:52 pm  Leave a Comment  

Sew Along – Purse (post 3)

Have you started your purse? If so, please share below in the comments or in the FB group.

My Progress:

After I reached the 1.5″ diameter, I switched to a double crochet. I did three rows of the double crochet, then started adding beads to every other double crochet. At first, I tried to slide the bead onto the thread over. I did a few stitches of that. Then, un-did them. Then, I tried to add the bead during the final pull through of the double crochet. I decided that was a complete pain. I un-did those stitches. Then, I want back to putting the beads on during the thread over. It was the easier of the two methods.

Four episodes of an odd super-hero show later, I had two, almost three, rows of beading done (plus the preceding two unbeaded rows.) There is some wonkiness in the full light of the camera flash. I should have put a measure in there. That is about 2″ wide.2016-02-28-20.00.22.jpg.jpeg2016-02-28-20.00.43.jpg.jpeg

I do have one small problem. I am using 30 beads per row. Below are all the beads I have left. I am going to have to buy more.

Additionally, I do not want to cut the thread to add more beads. Nope, nope. Not at all. Originally, I just wanted to bead the blue area. Now, I’m thinking, I’ll be beading the white stripe as that is the only way I can think to add more beads without unspooling the whole blue spool or cutting the thread. 2016-02-28-20.01.25.jpg.jpeg

Lessons learned:

  • More than 4 grams of cut steel beads are needed. I now estimate more like 8 for a minimal beading, 12 for a simple striping. Much more for a design.
  • I am finding it very tempting to do a pattern with the beads.
Published in: on March 13, 2016 at 9:37 am  Comments (2)  

What Shall I Call Thee?

We often call the rolled and folded sewing cases a “Housewife” or “Huswif”. Here is a perspective that considers the phrase to be old-fashioned. (Yes, the name is still used through the era. There just may be a connotation we are not yet understanding.)

There is an old-fashioned kind of pincushion, which looks rather clumsy, but it is extremely convenient for a journey. The cushion is nearly an inch thick; no pasteboard is put on the outside, in order that there may be more room for pins; the inside is a piece of cardboard, covered with silk; a round hole is cut in it, and a piece of cardboard, just big enough for a thimble, let in. Little bars, stitched across on each side of the thimble-hole, form places for scissors and bodkin. All this should be arranged before the stuffing is put in, and the bit of silk for the outside fitted; it is very inconvenient doing it afterwards. The pincushion forms but half of the establishment. Flannel leaves are put in for needles, and the outside is of covered silk, with a little pocket for thread. This pocket consists of a plain piece of silk, nearly the size of the pasteboard, fastened to the outside by means of little gores at each end.

What used to be made in old times, and called housewives, are similar to the travelling pincushion. These had a piece of silk, the same width as the cushion, and a little more than a quarter of a yard long, neatly stitched into compartments to answer the purpose of thread papers. This was rolled round the cushion, and fastened by a small loop and button. Housewives were very useful things, but they are out of fashion now.(The Girl’s Own Book)

This is in both the 1858 edition (here) and the 1833 edition (here).

 

Published in: on March 11, 2016 at 6:00 am  Comments (2)  

Finishing a Straw Bonnet

Godey’s, November 1856

Straw Bonnets.—Straw bonnets generally require some sort of lining, crape, muslin, or a thin silk. Very few are now worn with a plain lining. It requires just the same quantity to make a little fullness, which is more becoming. I will explain to you how to make a plain lining or a plain bonnet will take just the same quantity; or, if any difference, the plain requires more than the full. I think I hear my readers say this if very strange. You are aware that, in cutting out a plain bonnet or lining, there are several small pieces cut out to the shape. The piece make the fullness, for the material is used on the straight when put in the easy and on cross-way when plain, which compels you to cut pieces off , which on the straight and put in full, is not required. A head lining of silk or muslin should be put in after the lining to make all neat and clean when the bonnet is worn. Straw curtains are worn; but a great many ladies prefer a silk curtain made of the ribbon to match the trimming. The curtain is best cross-way with a narrow straw on the edge. The curtain will not quite take a yard of ribbon; three and a quarter or three and a half are sufficient to trim a bonnet. Plain colors on a straw are neater than mixed, such as primrose, light or dark blue. Sarcenet ribbon is better than satin. It is a good plan to sew narrow strings on the bonnet at the same time you sew the wide tie; the narrow first: it keep the bonnet more firm on the head. When I say narrow ribbon, I mean an inch and a half wide. An old fancy straw bonnet will make up again very weill by putting some silk between each row of straw. You must have a wire frame, and unpick the bonnet; cut some pieces of silk on the cross for puffings, and now lay your straw alternately with the silk. Unless the straw is a very good color, mix colored silk with it. This bonnet will require a lining.

Published in: on March 7, 2016 at 6:00 am  Comments (2)  
Tags:

Today’s Doll Millinery

Today, I have two doll millinery pieces to offer in my Etsy shop. The first is a fashionable hat in pale straw. Second, a dome shaped hat similar to the one I just offered yesterday in a human size.

Here, Cali models the first hat. This is a fashionable style suited for the 1850s or early 1860s. Cali says this will be best for a doll with an 8″ to 9″ circumference head. Her head is just a bit over 9″

The second hat is era versatile. The round, dome shape appears in multiple eras including the 1840s and early 1860s. Cali suggests this hat is best for a doll smaller than she is, with a head that measures between 7″ and 7.5″. The hat stand displayed measure 7.5″

Published in: on March 6, 2016 at 11:26 am  Leave a Comment  

Sew Along – Purse (post 2)

Have you selected your purse? If so, please share below in the comments or in the FB group.

I selected a simple crochet long purse (aka ‘miser’ purse) that I am working in the round rather than lengthwise in rows.

Here is some of the progress I have made:

I pre-threaded the silver beads onto the blue silk thread. I figure I’ll thread the gold ones from the other end. (I hope that works)

I started with a loop with ten crochets chained on. (sorry about my less than correct crochet terms.)

2016-02-07-19.21.41.jpg.jpeg

I worked around and around in single crochet, increasing between each stitch. (In this case, I increase by stitching a single crochet, a chain, then a single crochet, a chain, etc. rather than what seems to technically be an increase where I would work two single crochets in a single loop. The loops simple were not big enough to to to that and that isn’t how I learned to do it as a kid. Habits are hard to break.)2016-02-07-19.44.17.jpg.jpeg

The first night I made it to the inside of my circle. These were all single crochet. Then I switched to a half-double crochet through the outside of the circle (1.5″.)2016-02-07-20.49.33.jpg.jpeg

It seems I either failed to get a photo of the 1.5″ diameter or accidentally deleted it.

 

Lessons learned:

  • More light is needed for working with the blue silk, especially with the very bottom when the single crochet stitches are so tight.
  • My single crochet and half crochet stitches are very tight. This is bad for the sanity. Good for keeping coins in. This can lead to funkiness.
Published in: on March 6, 2016 at 6:00 am  Comments (3)  

Today’s Millinery

Currently available in my Etsy shop.

Add a lace or net veil around this brim, and this hat will give excellent sun dimming for the eyes.

2016-03-04-06.20.10-1.jpg.jpeg

2016-03-04-06.20.06-1.jpg.jpeg

It isn’t very often I include photos of myself with the hats I offer. But, I think this helps give a good idea of the look. I measure 21.5″ at my hairline, where this hat sits. The brim reaches over my eyes. From the front, you can see I can still see easily without the brim covering my face. (If I tilted the hat further forward, I would have even more coverage.)

Here is an assortment of images showing this shape with varied depths of the brim.

Illustrations – Godey’s Magazine 1862. Photographs – circa 1840s.

display_image

A Walk on the Beach, Augustus Leopold Egg, 1855-60.

Published in: on March 5, 2016 at 8:21 am  Leave a Comment  

Common Pin Cushions

Standing in my sewing room tonight I was kinda dazed by current events. I pulled out one of the carry totes that had packed up since last fall. Opening it, I found I had an abundance of pincushion pieces.

2016-03-03-07.35.46-1.jpg.jpeg

American Girl’s Book, Eliza Leslie, 1854.

One set in particular stood out. They were the pieces for a common pincushion of the mid-nineteenth century. They are flannel filled centers wrapped in ribbon, some with pasteboard. Directions can be found in two of the popular girls’ books, The Girl’s Own Book and American Girl’s Book.

At the right, are the directions from Eliza Leslie. The simple cushion calls for the flannel interior to be rolled tightly.

Below, are the directions from Mrs. Child. Her version calls for covering pasteboard circles first. Then cutting the flannel interior layers in the shape of the pasteboard. This is the version I have many pieces cut out for. In my case, I did opt for layers of cotton and wool batting instead of using the harder to find wool flannel. If I had all the time in the world, I would paint the silk sides as she suggests.

The forms into which pincushions have been manufactured of late, are without number. The most common consists of two circles of pasteboard, covered with silk, with narrow ribbon sewed between , and stuffed with bits of flannel cut to the size of the pasteboard. Cotton is very bad for stuffing, because the pins enter it with difficulty; and, when the cushions are of such shape that they can be stuffed with flannel, it is much preferable to wool. When sewed with silk of a very decided colour, and the stitches taken with great regularity, an edge, resembling delicate cord, may be produced.

Some cut the pasteboard into oblong pieces, and then paint rabbits or squirrels, of a size suitable to cover each side, and, after the cushion is made, they paste them on; the place for the pins then comes between the two rabbits. Others paint a cat seated, for each side, and make a cushion of such a shape as will fit in well. Some cut the figures of the cats in black velvet, and put little spangles for eyes. I have seen butterflies painted and pasted on each side, in the same way. Some do the paintings on rice-paper and put them on cardboard, cute out precisely in the shape of the figure. They look rather rich , but are more easily injured. A very pretty pincushion may be made in the shape of a small easy chair. (The Girl’s Own Book, by Mrs. Child. Child, Lydia Maria. 1858.)

Very worth mentioning is what Child calls “bachelor’s pincushions.” I see what are often called pinwheels in antique shops. They range from simple circles to pretty shapes. I’ve always found these to be a nice option for carrying pins in a traveling sewing case. Knowing that at one point, they were considered appropriate for men to carry in their pockets is quiet interesting.

What are called “bachelor’s pincushions,” are made very thin, so that gentlemen can carry them in their pockets with convenience. No margin of ribbon, or taste, is put between the bits of pasteboard, in making these cushions. Two round pieces of pasteboard are covered with silk, and neatly sewed together with one or two thin pieces of flannel between them. Of course, merely one circle of pins can be put in. (The Girl’s Own Book, by Mrs. Child. Child, Lydia Maria. 1858.)

 

 

Published in: on March 3, 2016 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment