If I Had My Own Blue Box:

July proved to be a month of time travel, hoping eras nearly each week.

1810s for Independence Day

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1830s for Chocolate Weekend

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1860s for the Civil War Living History

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Millinery

My goal for the summer is to sew (and sell) 16 millinery pieces each month. This July’s pieces include:

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Projects

I put a seat on the $4 stool I picked up last month at a yardsale. This is my first adventure with making a tape seat. I could not find the proper nails, so, of course, I just sewed the tapes on. Despite the puckers that will hopefully relax, I am pleased with the result. I do think I will add a little stain or polish to the tops of the spindles because they look odd to me.

I made a bag in a day. A conversation with a friend reminded me I had the materials of one of the duffle style bags. When I woke up in the morning, I decided to make a bag. This one is made from memory, having made one years ago with the Shooting Star directions, using a circle and a straight edge. I didn’t bother measuring a thing. It is entirely handsewn, first basted together, then back stitched. It is about 150% the size of my previous bag, which is closer to the “Plaid shawl cover” size from Godey’s 1871.

Pocket Fairy

Following the Chocolate Weekend, I talked with the Pocket Fairy to relay that there were several in want of pockets. She got busy making some simple pockets.

Looking Ahead

I am busily working on Regency millinery for Novel Weekend when the center of the village will be honoring Jane Austen’s Emma.

If timing falls together with school right, I will also appearing for Fiber Week later in August.

Of course, I am looking forward to the Agricultural Society Fair as fall arrives. This year will have far fewer entries unless I get my act together soon.

Patreon Patrons

Thank you to all of my Patreon Patrons. Your support allows me to do more and add original pieces like this to my collection. Thank you to:

• Barb
• Michelle
• Lorri
• Nancy
• Susan
• Kitty
• Kristen

This block is what I bought with my sudden “Bonnet Sale” last week. Thank you to those who made a purchase and otherwise supported the sale. I was worried one of the 14 people watching the block would pick it up while I waited to make enough sales to do the purchase. After making the purchase, I was nervous I might be wrong even though I was really sure I was right.

This beautiful block is likely from the later 1840 to early 1850s. It has a circular brim, a straight rise from the crown to the brim edge, and a flat round brim tip. The shape of the cheektabs are not indicated. This block is shallower than my block I call Galaxy, which also has a round brim but a deep, round crown.

Here is the new block, right, next to Galaxy on the left. This side-by-side makes me think poor Galaxy needs a polish. The new block will need a name soon.

This is an 1840s bonnet at the Museum of Fine Arts that may have a shape similar to what this block makes: Woman’s bonnet – Works – Museum of Fine Arts, Boston (mfa.org)

For several years now, I have wanted to take a deeper look at what the millinery industry meant for women. Behind each of the beautiful confections for the head, are an assortment of women; some earning a little extra money, some supporting their families, some exhausting themselves for the spring fashion season.

This past weekend, the Genesee Country Village and Museum provided the platform for this approach as their latest event focused on the lives of the women, children, and men of Western New York during the Civil War. This living history format invited visitors to take more time with each of the interpretations and presentations, while interpreters and reenactors were able to get more in depth with their topics. Based on our experiences in the millinery and what I could see from my porch steps on the square, visitors embraced the opportunity.

Today’s video starts with a rainy wet Saturday morning, then takes a look at the two interpretive approaches used with most visitors.

Notes for the Video:

This is the recommended reading list set out for visitors to photograph: PDF

I remember each summer Grandma would tuck a new lavender wand, or two, or three, here and there around the house. These fragrant, woven bouquets were quintessential tokens of summer in the historic village.

For each wand, you will want:

• An odd number of lavender stalks (9, 11, 13) of about the same length and size head
• 1.5 to 2 yards of narrow ribbon
• String (optional)
• Scissors
• A wide eyed bodkin (optional)

Video on Ribbon Sachets:

I didn’t know until I wrote it that this is going to be a new series. It won’t be a regularly scheduled series or necessarily a  long series. It will be a series though. I hope to share my straw sewing with people while exploring the various aspects of straw millinery.  I hope you enjoy.

New Bonnets in Shop

I also have new bonnets in the shop. I anticipate the bonnet from the video being finished later today (Monday)

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If you’ve been watching or reading for a while, you may get a giggle out of today’s video. Midday I came home from my errands and hit a giant, fluffy pillow of “nope” “na” “done”. I suspect this delayed summer crashing was finally triggered by last night’s printer incident. Finally, sometime around noon I found myself not wanting to sew, stretched out on the couch enjoying an audiobook.

June Reflections:

Looking back to the beginning of June, I released my newest kit: A Corded Ball Pin Cushion. I think this makes my third kit (parasol pen wipe and embroidered velvet needle-book being the first and second.) There was a nice response with all but 5 kits being sold quickly.

Patreon supporters received a special edition of In Detail on one of my favorites from An American Girls Book.

In the fog of what was June, I seem to have made several millinery pieces:

Coming up in July:

• Independence Day at GCVM: This event brings be back to my first volunteer experiences at the museum with the parade and picnicking. I will be dressing in Regency attire (assuming I finish my bonnet and my dress still fits.)
• Chocolate Day at GCVM: Bonnie the BonBon doll will be in attendance again. I will be doing a tbd chocolate themed demonstration. I will be dressing in 1830s attire.
• Civil War Living History at GCVM: I will be presenting on women’s employment through the millinery industry, both ways women earned money away from the home and from home.
• Millinery: My goal is to make 4 pieces each week, hopefully with one decorated piece.

My recommendations for a basic hair kit:
● Straight hair pins
● Faux tortoise hair pins
● Plain black elastics
● Hair Pomade
● A Plain net or two
● Faux horn hair comb or two

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I am lucky enough to be able to purchase these items in person, includong the straight hairpins during a day trip through the Finger Lakes. Not everyone has similar local resources. With this in mind, I am including two shopping lists: one that can be done online from home and one that can be done mostly in person. The online list supports small businesses, with the exception of one item through Amazon.

Shopping from home for approx $38.00:
Order from Timely Tresses:
~~1 set of faux tortoise hair pins $4.00 or 4 chignon faux tortoise hair pins $5.00
~~1 plain hair net $4.00
~~1 back comb $4.00 or 2 side combs $4.00
Amazon:
~~2 sets of 12 straight hair pins in 2” or 3″ and 2.5” $12.00
Talbott and Co on Etsy:
~~1 tin of pomade $14.00

Shopping mostly in person for approx $25:
Local pharmacy:
~~Plain hairnet $2 for a set of 3
~~Faux tortoise hair pins $3
~~Hair elastics $2
Amish dry goods shop:
~~Straight hair pins 2 sets for $4
Talbott and Co on Etsy:
~~1 tin of pomade $14.00

Sources:

• Timely Tresses http://www.timelytresses.com/store/c20/Hair_Dressings.html
• Talbott and Co. https://etsy.me/3pH7zNH
• Beth Miller Hall https://etsy.me/3pJ1UXb
• LBCC https://etsy.me/3cGXdYB
• Amazon items: 2.5″ Straight hair pins

If you have been following even for a short while, you know I love pockets. I love making pockets. I love having pockets.
For years, I carried a basket or a purse. It would get filled with a myriad of this and that, period and modern.
All this stuf I thought I needed to have on me. Extra water, a camera, a little money…. You know what? It all just added up and added up. Frankly, it was heavy and a PITA.
It also wasn’t accurate.
Then, one glorious day, I learned about pockets. Dresses had pockets! We aren’t talking the wimpy pockets in women’s jeans that barely hold a few dollars and a small set of keys. We are talking huge, mother of all pockets!
Skeptical?
Don’t think they could be that big?
Take a look at my dress from a few years ago. Okay, 15 years ago. (Ignore the hair falling down and the gloves for rusty nails. This was a heavy work day, building fences and moving corn.) The pocket in that dress is holding my lunch including a couple bottles of water and bananas. Can you tell?

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I wear two pockets when dressed in Victorian era clothing. Each of my 1830s through 1860s dresses has a pocket on one side, preferably the right side. In this pocket goes the things I need throughout the day of the event, the period items. On the other side is a separate pocket that sits either below my skirt or below my skirt and upper petticoat. This pocket holds the modern items I hope not to need during an event but should have on me in case of emergency or when I leave.

The dress pocket with period items holds:

• Building key
• A small wallet/pocket with ID and cash. This is roughly 3.5”x2.5”.
• Handkerchief
• Possibly a workpocket
• Possibly a purse (a small item that carries money)
• Possibly a fan
• Possibly a glass

My seperate tie-in pocket holds:

• Epipen
• Medications I need immediate access to
• Car key (mine pop apart)
• Phone if I need it

Pockets were most often set into the seam of a skirt. Originals show pockets were long, wide enough for the hand to fit comfortably, and both rounded or squared on the bottom. They are often a plain or cotton print with the seam to the outside of the pocket. Sometimes a support stay attaches to the pocket part way down and to the waistband. A straight edge of the pocket lines up with the skirt seam, and the skirt edge folds over the edge of the pocket. I prefer to do two rows of stitches around the edge of my pocket for a strong pocket.

Seperate tie-in pockets proceed the Victorian era by many decades. While seperate pockets grew less common by the 1840s and 50s as dress pockets became more common, they were still in use and recommended for situations like travel.

Currently, there is a pair of pockets embroidered by sisters Mary Ann and Hannah Rose Brigham of New Hampshire in an Etsy shop One is dated 1850. Both show wear indicating their use.

What did they carry in their pockets?