A Year in Millinery Fashion – 1864

Bonnet of white chip, trimmed with a long white plume. The inside trimming is of Ophelia velvet. (Godey’s, September, 1864)

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Bonnets – The capes of the bonnets have almost entirely disappeared. In fact, in Paris, not only the capes, but the crowns also, have disappeared. The bonnets there, during the past summer, have consisted of a straw or tulle front, profusely ornamented with flowers and lace, and only a half-handkerchief of lace falling over the hair at the back, this being trimmed with sprays of flowers – no crown, no cape. It will be seen that we are fast approaching thse models by one of our wood-cuts. Still, the apprehension of neuralgia will prevent us from adopting this style in full for the winter. A Paris authority says:

“The bonnet shape, as it now stands, is small in every respect, and is not intended to hide either hair or face; on the contrary, it seems rather to connive at showing both. The mass of hair at the back, the bandeaux in front, the ears and ear-rings are all left unconcealed. A vast quantity of both white and colored tulle is worn about the bonnets of the present day, which proves soft and vastly becoming, when brought in such close contact with the skin, and will be found advantageous to both old and young faces. Long tulle strings are very general; and tulle is frequently arranged in such away as to do away with the necassity of a cap at the sides. Instead of being placed as a scarf upon the outside of the front, it is placed upon the edge, thus falling half inside and half outside the bonnet; a quilling is then unnedassary, the plain tulle scarf providing equally as becoming, and not crushing so easily as the quilled blonde.” (Peterson’s, September, 1864)

Published in: on September 1, 2014 at 1:01 am  Leave a Comment  
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Fetch My Veil

“I will be in my chamber. Will you be kind enough to fetch my veil” (Madame Vastra, Doctor Who, Series 8, Episode 1.)

I rather liked the veil aspect of this Doctor Who episide. It made me giggle and reflect. Personally, I enjoy wearin veils with my bonnets. I did not think I would. I thought I would feel claustrophobic, as I do with other things, or have difficulty breathing. This is not the case with either of my silk gauze veils. Instead, I find them a comfortable relief from the brightness of the sun and irritation of dust. I also find people’s reactions to me or to the veil, I can not say for certain which it actually is, interesting. I find some people stear away from me, won’t talk to me or even won’t look at me as I walk by. This has its advantages and disadvantages in an interpretive setting. I get to the outhouse or office without delay. I also make people less comfortable, decreasing conversation. I need to initiate conversation.
Then came this excellent train of thought in the story-line. Happy me.
In the days following, I lost two online auctions for reseasrch items I Really wanted. Really, Really wanted in the very last seconds despite being the only watcher. Very unhappy me.
Sulking about, I stumbled across this piece being sold as antique lace yardage.
Now, I don’t know much about lace, but I know a veil when I see one. Mine. Happy me.
It arrived today. I am quiet pleased with my cheer-me-up purchase.

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This is the lower edge motif:

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The side photo didn’t come out as well:

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The center (I would call this a field on a shawl) has dots and flowers:

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The top is a tiny rolled hem:

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I had figured the veil was drawn up (gathered) through the loops. Nope. I was estatic to see the tiny cord runing through the rolled hem:

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As far as damage, these are the spots I found:

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Not so bad for a cheer-me-up.

“When did you stop wearing your veil?”
“When you stopped seeing it.”

Published in: on August 30, 2014 at 7:16 pm  Comments (1)  

Readings for Rural Life

I am reblogging a few posts from earlier this year because there has been some recent discussion of working and domestic working attire.

If I Had My Own Blue Box:

From Moore’s Rural New-Yorker in Rochester, NY

August 6th, 1864

Dried Fruit for Soldiers

Mrs. E. J. Roberts, Secretary of the Soldiers Aid Society, New Haven, Mass., has issued the following circular:

Dried Fruit vs. Jellies. – As the time of fruits has again come round, we would remind our friends in town and country that the Sanitary Commission has expressed a decided preference for dried fruits, instead of jellies, for the army, on account of the waste and breakage from fermentation during the heat of the summer, and the difficulties of packaging. The high price of sugar is an additional recommendation to dried fruit. The following recipes are considered good:

Fruit dried with sugar, &c., – to a pound of currants put a quarter pound of sugar. Boil together for a minute – that is, let them just come to the boiling – spread them on plates…

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Published in: on August 29, 2014 at 7:47 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Readings for Rural Life

I am reblogging a few posts from earlier this year because there has been some recent discussion of working and domestic working attire.
(I just saw a mis-spelling. Oops)

If I Had My Own Blue Box:

From Moore’s Rural New-Yorker in Rochester, NY

April 30th, 1864

Wherewithal Shall We be Clothed

I was much pleased with an article in the Rural (March 26th,) on hook skirts, but I should have been more so if so sensible a person, as a writer evidently is, had told us what (in her opinion) woman should wear. I can not think the former custom of wearing a half dozen skirts to make a figure to come up to the fashionable standard, less objectionable as regards health. Then what are we to wear? There is certainly a great need of a revolution in ladies’ clothing, especially farmer’s wives and daughters; and I think it would have been effected long since, but that ladies of wealth and fashion have not felt it so much an encombrance as they would if they were mechanically employed, and, as Faith Wayne…

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Published in: on August 29, 2014 at 7:45 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Readings for Rural Life

I am reblogging a few posts from earlier this year because there has been some recent discussion of working and domestic working attire. Notice at the bottom of this post there are links to several additional articles.

If I Had My Own Blue Box:

From Moore’s Rural New-Yorker in Rochester, NY

April 23rd, 1864

Working Dresses.

It is not my province to dictate any particular form of dress; but when, as is often the case, I see wives and daughters doing their necessary housework with crinoline and long skirts, or in other words, in full dress, I am led to inquire why will they not use their good judgment in this as in other particulars, and accommodate their dress to their duties.

Now, just take some of those long dresses that have become faded at the bottom and in front, take out the front breadths, leaving about five, tear off the bottom leaving the skirt long enough to come half way from the knees to ankle joints, use the parts taken out for pants, prepare skirts to suit the length of the dress, running “shurs” in one for three or four hoops…

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Published in: on August 29, 2014 at 7:41 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Black & White on Straw

???????????????????????????????I’ve been delayed in sharing this bonnet. I actually thought I had.

This straw for a local client who was inspired by the black and white drawn bonnet.

 

 

 

 

 

The straw form is made of the French plait I’ve come to like so much. It has a flattering brim height and shape. The bonnet’s shape and size fit her perfectly.

Inside the brim is an organza frill and colorful assortment of flowers.
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This bonnet took a whole lot’a ribbon. The bavolet is pieced bias cut sections of the ribbon. The fashion ties are a full yard long each. Then a full, four loop bow decorates the exterior. ??????????????????????????????? ??????????????????????????????? ???????????????????????????????

 

Published in: on August 28, 2014 at 2:15 pm  Comments (2)  
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Readings for Rural Life

From Moore’s Rural New-Yorker in Rochester, NY

Aug 27th 1864

Dried Fruits for Soldiers

The following letter from a lady to the New York Tribune, who has been an army nurse needs no endorsement – it needs only to be read.

“I noticed with pleasure to-day your remarks calling attention to those living in the country to a simple way of drying currants, &c., for the use of the soldiers, both sick and well. This matter should receive wide attention – acid fruit being a necessity for those who live on the unvarying “ration” in a warm climate, also counteract the brackish water they are often obliged to drink. Currants, raspberries, blackberries, gooseberries, whortleberries, grapes, plums and pie-plant, cut into pieces and stewed in its own juice, are all equally good saved in this way, and more desired than jellies and preserves, besides being easier made and cheaper now, considering the price of sugar, so that there is every reason why all our good women should take hold of this work.

“When dried, the fruit is saved in strong paper bags, or those made of old muslin. A little of the dried fruit put in his tin cup and hot water poured on, with a trifle more sugar, makes a home-like relish for the hard tack to the weary and worn soldier after hard service in the field of on picket. Would that all “the boys” laying in the trenches before Petersburg could have a supply of what they so much need for health, and which every woman would gladly prepare where the idea suggested to her. In neighborhoods where a profusion of the small fruits can be had for the picking, not a quart of them should be allowed to go to waste while this war lasts. Thousands of valuable lives would be saved could the men have what they so greatly crave, “something sour.”

The good ladies in Orange county also prepare a refreshing drink from currant juice, which is a next to lemons in value. To one quart of currant juice add one pound of sugar, and boil and skim; this keeps all the year in bottles or kegs. Other acid juice, also, could be prepared with little trouble, and raspberry vinegar is eagerly asked for by female nurses for their wounded patients in Southern hospitals.

 

Published in: on August 27, 2014 at 6:01 am  Leave a Comment  
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A Summer I’m Rather Fond Of

I hope you all don’t mind a more personal post.
With school starting back up next week, my summer season is wrapping up. I can’t help but reflect fondly.
This summer, I……
– got my groove back. I felt wholy me, myself more than I have in a long, long time.
– enjoyed every moment I could with my husband. This was truly a delightful, fun and playful summer for us. (I think this is why I most do not want the summer to end.
– sewed until 1 am, woke in the mornings and napped in the afternoons.
– made 18 bonnets (the goal was 1 a week) that went near and far.
– let a little research project explode into a big huge research project with a life of its own.
– enjoyed sunshine, corn I could eat, neighborhood cats and squirrel friends, train rides, and parks.
– had a blast in a little shop surrounded by color and texture and people.
We didn’t get to do everything we wanted; not everything turned out as we thought. But, it has been such a good summer; such a summer to be fond of.

Published in: on August 25, 2014 at 4:51 pm  Comments (1)  

A Year in Millinery Fashion – 1864

In bonnets, bombazine, crape Maretz silk covered with crape, and all crape with crape ruche inside, are the only styles admissible for deep mourning.

There is no dress that requires more discretion in the choice and arrangement than that called second mourning, but it is one of the most elegant, when well selected.

For half mourning at this season of the year, Mme. Demorest is making black grenadine richly trimmed with flutings and silk, or ribbon quilled and laid on in various designs, while an endless variety of chine grenadines, lustiness, crapes, and Mozambiques, in black, gray, and lavender, give ample scope for a display of taste in all the gradations of mourning dress.

Some very beautiful designs in shawls have been exhibited this summer, in black grenadine with a border composed of white and violet stripes edged with a heavy silk fringe.

Basquines and circulars made in lusterless silk, and without trimming, are in light mourning.

For a half mourning bonnet black tulle puffed and trimmed with violet; or, for full dress, white crape covered with black lace and trimmed with violet flowers and violet strings; the latter is very much admired as a reception bonnet.

One of the most elegant bonnets we have seen this season was composed of a new material having the appearance of fine Tarleton and velvet woven together to form small diamonds; the bonnet was covered plain with the material, while a simple, trailing vine of black ivy leaves, veined with white, fell over the crown and cape inside; white and black flowers and white strings. (Godey’s, August, 1864)

 

 

The Fit

For many of us who do historical impressions, gloves, particularly leather ones, are one of those items we keep an eye out for at yard sales.
For those who are new to the hunt, I am certain the thought “they are so small!” has crossed through your mind, possibly many times.
Yes. They look small. But! Here is visual proof that leather gloves do stretch.
To start – I have wide hands and short, thick fingers. My hands are size 8. (A swollen 8 today after a week of heavy sewing. Usually, they are 7.5.) I put a photo showing how to measure hand size below.
Here are the gloves. On the left is the left glove as it was bought today. It is 3 1/4″ wide at theback of the palm. The one on the right is the right one after some stretching. It is 3 3/4″ wide across the back of the palm. It fits nicely on my hand, except for a long thumb.

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Here you can see the unstretched glove on top of the stretched glove:

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See how the stretch is a full finger width in difference?

Of course, I don’t suggest trying to stretch a glove around your hand at a shop or sale. You need to buy it first. So, how do I decide whether to buy?
– First, price. In this area, I don’t see the need to pay more than $5 for wrist length gloves. (Honestly, the $2 I paid for each item surprised me at today’s particular sale when I heard the prices others were paying.)
– Condition of the leather. The leather needs to be soft and pliable. Dry leather will likely be a pain to deal with at best.
– Condition of the gloves. Check that the stitches are sound. If you can’t fix it, skip them. Check that there are no wear holes or worn spots. Check staining. Staining can be corrosive.
– Guesstimate fit. My rule is if I can easily slide my fingers, from the knuckles forward into the gloves, I’ll give them a try.
There are specifics for different eras. Generally, for the 19th century, skip snaps. Frankly, besides being incorrect, they are rust and tear spots. For Regency era, long gloves are needed. Prices will be notably higher for these. Okay, remarkably higher. The arm part of these do stretch nicely. If you have wider hands or those with joint issues, opt for a pair with an open inner wrist that buttons back up. I couldn’t do without those.

Sizing – If you are lucky enough to find gloves with size markings, it is helpful to know your glove size. Simply wrap a tape measure around your palm. Mine here is an 8. (I’ve only seen sizes by the half inch -7, 7.5, 8, 8.5.)

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Hope that is helpful.

Published in: on August 22, 2014 at 4:24 pm  Leave a Comment