Readings for Rural Life

From Moore’s Rural New-Yorker in Rochester, NY

November 19th, 1864

Girls and Their Treatment

From intelligent physicians, having extensive practice in this city, we learn that, of the women of New York embraced in that class whose circumstances raise them above the necessity of labor, nineteen-twentieths who have reached the age of thirty are seriously diseased, and of their daughters nine-tenths have impaired health at the age of eighteen. In this class of society, for the last ten years the deaths have exceeded the births, so that, if it were not recruited by accessions from the country  or from the lower class, it would disappear in a single generation. This may be an exaggerated statement, and we care not to insist upon the figures, but there is ground for alarm. The diseases are chiefly dyspepsia, nervous affections, spinal curvature, etc. The causes are easily found. Our artificial life, want of proper exercise, stimulating diet, emotional excitement. Our young ladies feast at the same table as their parents, using the same luxuries and stimulants. They enter into society before they enter their teens; they take but little exercise, and that spasmodically and the most injudicious kind – the exercise of the lower limbs. What is the remedy? Exercise in the open air, the use of the broom, spinning-wheel, the washtub, which would develop the muscles of the arms and chest, expand the lungs, and pump the blood vigorously through the veins. But, next to a properly regulated exercise, girls need a properly selected food, both physical and intellectual. It would be well also to let them know that there is a distinction between girls and women, and that the social enjoyments, the late hours and the emotional excitement which can be endured by the one cannot be so well endured by the other. All this may be little heeded no, but the time may come when young men in search of wives will deem a broom in the hand of a lady more ornamental than a curve on her back; a knowledge of mathematics better than an acquaintance with romances; and a group of healthy children more acceptable in a nursery than a council of eminent and distressed doctors.

 

Published in: on November 19, 2014 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment  
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Read this

You know how I occasionally blabber on about setting the scene and placement of prompts, articles of inquiry? This is how Kitty Calash sees it: http://kittycalash.com/2014/11/18/pushing-interpretation-forward/

Published in: on November 18, 2014 at 8:49 am  Comments (1)  

A Year in Millinery Fashion – 1864

Bonnet for light mourning. The front is black velvet. The crown is soft and formed of white tulle, which is covered with a fanchon of black and white plaid silk, edged with bugle fringe. On the left side of the crown is a spray of white flowers. The cape is of black velvet, trimmed with a bias band of plaid silk. The inside trimming is of pearl color, and white flowers, and white. (Godey’s, November, 1864)

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  Black velvet bonnet, timed with white silk edged with black lace. On the front is a large white flower, surrounded with scarlet velvet leaves. The inside trimming is of scarlet velvet and black lace. (Godey’s, November, 1864)

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 Bonnet for light mourning. The front is of black silk. The crown and cape of white silk covered with black lace. The flowers, both outside and in, are of violet velvet. (Godey’s, November, 1864)

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Published in: on November 17, 2014 at 1:01 am  Leave a Comment  
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A Year in Millinery Fashion – 1864

White silk curtainless bonnet, timed with black velvet, black lace, large black beads, and sprays of orange-colored velvet flowers.

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Evening bonnet of white crepe, trimmed with mauve feathers. A fall of blonde lace loops of mauve velvet take the place of a cape. A tulle veil ties under the chin, and is a substitute for the side caps. Over the forehead is a pink rose, with buds and leaves. (Godey’s, December, 1864)

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Published in: on November 15, 2014 at 1:01 am  Leave a Comment  
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Quilted Hood Pattern – TBD

Quilted Hood Pattern -  By Anna Worden BauersmithAs the weather turns cold, very cold for some of us, I have had more and more people asking for my Quilted Hood Pattern. I have mixed news.

Currently, the pattern is out of print.

I do plan to reprint it.

I’ve been trying to get a new printing for a month. My printer merged with another printer who has failed to return my calls or emails. So, I am on a quest for a new local printer.

Sadly, since we are so close to Thanksgiving, I am not sure I will have the pattern early enough for Christmas or Hanukkah gifts (either made from the pattern or the pattern itself.

Published in: on November 13, 2014 at 5:38 pm  Comments (2)  

Where do I find Fanciful Utility?

FanU-Cover-SnapThis is a question I love to hear and I love to answer.

You can find and purchase my book, Fanciful Utility: Victorian Sewing Cases and Needle-books, at The Sewing Academy.

Fanciful Utility makes an excellent gift for reenactors, museum friends, seamstresses, quilters, and anyone crafty with a needle and thread.

Fanciful Utility is packed full of projects, complete with directions and templates, for rolled sewing cases, sewing boxes and needle-books.

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Published in: on November 13, 2014 at 4:02 pm  Leave a Comment  
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That Which Makes Me Squeek

Every now and then we come across an image or a passage that makes a so very, very excited. This is one of those images. When doing my initial research on straw bonnets, I found the passages in fiction of incarcerated, institutionalized or recently either women and their straw bonnets rather fascinating. Now, this… an illustration of their pre-incarceration hear wear and an original caption. Untitled

The image will take you to the original page. Be sure to enlarge the image for the details.

Published in: on November 12, 2014 at 4:22 pm  Leave a Comment  

Fichu Pattern – Not being reprinted

 My Fichu Pattern is officially out of print and sold out (the last copy left the Genesee Country Village earlier this month).

I plan Not to reprint this pattern due to the cost of doing so. 

Published in: on November 12, 2014 at 4:04 pm  Leave a Comment  

Readings for Rural Life

From Moore’s Rural New-Yorker in Rochester, NY

November 12th, 1864

The Profession of Women

A magazine article says the profession of women is housekeeping, declares it thoroughly dishonored and offers the following proofs:

The delicate constitution and failing health of young girls, the sickness and sufferings of mothers and housekeepers, the miserable quality of domestic service, the stinted wages of seamstresses, the despair of thousands who vainly strive for an honest living, and the awful increase of those who live by vice, are more and more pressing on public attention.

What is the cause of all this? The chief cause is, that woman is not trained for her profession, while that profession is socially disgraced.

Women are not trained to be housekeepers nor to be wives, nor to be mothers, nor to be nurses of young children, nor to be nurses of the sick, nor to be seamstresses, nor to be domestics.

And yet what trade or profession of men involves more difficult and complicated duties than that of a housekeeper?

When parents are poor, the daughters are forced into considerable practical training for future duties, though many a mother toils to the loss of health that her daughters may have all their time for study and school.

In the more wealthy classes the young girl is subjected to a constant stimulus of the brain, involving certain debility of nerves and muscles, books in the nursery – books in the parlor – books in the school-room surround her. Her body is deformed by pernicious dress, her stomach weakened by confectionary and bad food. She sleeps late in the morning, lives more by lamps and gas than sunlight, breathing bad air in close rooms or a crowded school. A round scientific study and fashionable accomplishments alternate, while her ambition is stimulated to excel in anything rather than her proper business.

School is succeeded by a round of pleasurable excitement till marriage is secured, and then – perhaps is one short year – the untrained novice is plunged into all the complicated duties of wife, mother, and housekeeper, aided only by domestics as ignorant and untrained as herself.

What would a watch-maker be called who should set up his son in the trade when he had never put together a watch, furnishing only journeymen and apprentices as ignorant as his son” if in addition to this the boy’s right hand were paralyzed, he would be no more unfit for his business than are most young girls of the wealthy classes when starting in their profession at marriage.

Then, on the other hand, women who do not marry, especially in the more wealthy class, have no profession or business, and are as ill-provided as men would be, were all their trades and professions ended, and nothing left but the desultory pursuits of most single women who do not earn their living. A few such can create some new sphere as authors, artists, or philanthropists. But the great majority live such aimless lives as men would do where all their professions ended.

Almost every method that can be devised to make woman’s work vulgar, and disagreeable and disgraceful has been employed, till now the “lady,” signifies a woman that never has done any of the proper work of a woman.

Dark and dirty kitchens, mean and filthy dress, ignorant and vulgar associates, inconvenient arrangements, poor utensils, hard and dirty work, and ignorant and unreasonable housekeepers – these are the attractions offered to young girls to tempt them to one of the most important departments of their future profession.

The care of infants and young children is made scarcely less repulsive and oppressive, and usually is given to the young of the ignorant. Thus the training of young children at the most impressive age, the providing of healthful food, and suitable clothing, and of most of home comforts are turned off to the vulgar and ignorant. A woman of position and education who should attempt to earn her living in any of these departments of woman’s proper business would be regarded with pity or disgust, and be rewarded only with penurious wages and social disgrace.

Meantime, while woman’s proper business is thus disgraced and avoided, all the excitements of praise, honor, competition, and emolument are given to book-learning and accomplishments. The little girl who used to be rewarded at school for sewing neatly, and praised when she had made a whole skirt for her father, now is rewarded and praised only for geography, grammar and arithmetic. The young woman in the next higher school goes on to geometry , algebra and Latin, and winds up, if able to afford it, with French, music and drawing. Twenty other branches are added to these, not one of them including any practical training for any one of woman’s distinctive duties.

The result it, that in the wealthy classes a woman no more thinks of earning her living in her true and proper profession than her brothers do of securing theirs by burglary of piracy.

This feeling in the more wealthy classes descends to those less favored by fortune. Though forced by lack of means to some degree of training for woman’s business, the daughters of respectable farmers and mechanics never look forward toward earning a living in their proper business, except as the last and most disgraceful resort of poverty. They will go into hot and unhealthy shops and mills, and even into fields with men and boys, rather than to doing woman’s work in a private family. Not that, take the year round, they can make much more money, but to avoid the tyranny and social disgrace of living as a servant in the kitchen, with all the discomforts connected with that position. Few except the negro and poorer German and Irish will occupy the place which brings to respectable and educated women social disgrace and the petty tyranny of inexperienced and untrained housekeepers, who know neither how to perform their own duties nor how to teach incompetent helpers to perform theirs.

 

Published in: on November 12, 2014 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment  
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It’s Getting Cold Out There – pt 2

The second hood of the season.

This hood is a black silk with cotton lining and wool batting. It is super soft with this batting. The hand quilting is simple stripes.

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The inside:

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I did have the idea that I was going to trim this one with a vintage fur. When I got the fur out, I found it was 4″ too short. As you can see from the photo, it is a bit fluffy. Maybe too fluffy. I do have more silk coming. I have to think about the fur.

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Published in: on November 11, 2014 at 8:58 pm  Comments (2)