If I Had My Own Blue Box:

Aka: My thoughts on my shoes.

This lost focuses on mid-nineteenth century appropriate shoes, including those good for the Civil War years. I have yet to build an early century foot wardrobe I am satisfied with.

About my feet:

I technically have size 7.5 double wide feet. This means in modern shoes I can wear from a 7.5 W to an 8.5W depending on the maker. If it helps with perspective, I prefer Bass Shoes, Naturalizer, and Sketchers for my every day modern shoes. My feet are sensitive to pressure on either area where I broke both toes abck to back one summer, and along the top of the foot to any irritant. The diagonal line from heal to top of my foot is longer than some.

Current Shoes:

Robert Land Wool Upper Balmorals

[Photo coming once I find them.] These were my first pair of reproduction shoes. They are the only pair I was able to buy directly from Land. I sent him measurements and a tracing of my foot. These arrived perfectly, like a glove for the foot. The wool breathes beautifully. I have not worn them in a few years because my feet got wider over the years. I will not pass them on though.

Robert Land Side Lacers

These are a size 8.5. These were actually my dream shoe for years: green side lacers by Land. These fit comfortably and do not rub or pinch my feet. I find at the end of an average day my feet are not sore or tired. They must have more depth between the heal and top of the foot because these slide on easily enough. (see below.)

Sekela Balmorals

These are a size 8.5 I bought these second hand. I have not worn them as much as my other shoes because I have not had them as long. They are cut higher than the other boots I have. Even with larger legs, I do not find these tight in the calf or ankle.

Fugawee Leather Gussets

These are a size 9. I consider these my weather shoes mostly because they are more easily replacable than the others. I wear these for wet, muddy, or snowy events. They fit in rubber overshoes (currently in storage) and coil grips. My feet can slide in and out of these fairly easily. This was important after my surgery as it was difficult to impossible to lace my shoes. This is also helpful for putting shoes on and off throughout they for coming and going from a house. The one problem I have is these shoes are stone catchers. The ankle area is loose enough stones fall inside when they are kicked up while walking.

Unknown Maker Side Lacers

This pair was purchased second hand inline. I do not know the maker or size. I recall the seller saying the maker was out of business and from California. I have worn these for seven or so years. There are componants that are not natural. While they are mostly comfortable, these sag or bunch through the day. The edging around the eyelets has worn through. I plan to replace it.

Slippers

These were handmade by me based on a pair in the Buffalo & Erie Historical Society Museum. I recommend slippers to anyone doing interpretation inside a house with carpet or floor clothes. Your feet will love you.

Shoes I am Lacking for this Era:

Social indoor shoes

Dance shoes

American Duchess and Amazon Drygoods shoes.

Shoes I don’t own anymore:

Robert Land Silk Side Lacers: I found a size 8 pair on Ebay. They were beautiful but I couldn’t even get my feet inside. They ended up going to a friend with smaller 7 feet.

Sekela Low Shoes: These were my birthday shoes. They were absolutely beautiful and well made. My previously broken toes did not like them, and kept bruising. These went to a trusted friend with slightly longer feet who will care for them.

“How Do I Buy a Hat or Bonnet?”

As spring is just around the corner, the 2020 Millinery season is picking up. Here is what you need to know about my millinery this year….

This year, I will make 1 or 2 straw pieces each week. This means about 6 hats and/or bonnets each month. I will offer at least 1 decorated piece each month as well. During the summer, I will be sewing full time as my sole income.

I sell all of my straw millinery through my Etsy shop.

Pieces can sell quickly…. Sometimes that is days…. Sometimes that is hours…. Sometimes that is minutes……

Be The First To Know

The best way to know new millinery is available is to subscribe to this blog.

I post pieces here as I post them on Etsy. To subscribe and receive emails for each new post, look under my photo to the right for the subscribe box that says “enter your email address” and a button that says “Follow My Blog.” If you are on your phone, you will find this at the bottom. Enter your email if you want email notifications. Click “Follow My Blog” if you want WordPress notifications. Yes, you can do both.

Know Your Size

It is a good idea to know what size and style you want ahead of time so you don’t second guess yourself. Take a look at my post on hat sizes and measure your head. Then browse my blog to look at the different styles I offer.

When you see a piece you like, click on the orange Etsy button, also found under my photo, or the link in each description.

About My Millinery

I focus on two types of millinery: straw plait millinery and quilted/wadded winter millinery. All of my straw pieces are hand sewn using historic techniques. I use both original bonnet and hat blocks, as well as hand carved blocks for blocking my pieces. I use two different millinery sizings. While I primarily offer straw forms, I occasionally offer fully decorated pieces. When I do, I use appropriate techniques and as accurate trimmings as possible. Given the likelihood that antique silk ribbons will shatter or fracture, I strongly prefer not to use them in pieces to be worn. I want you to be able to wear your millinery for years. I currently offer:

• 1400-1600s – Researching
• Late 1700 – Starting to look at
• Regency era – Developing appropriate shapes.
• 1820s-1830s – Dabbling.
• 1840s – Working off an original block.
• 1850s through 1864 – Making a variety of bonnets and hats
• Bustle era – Making occasionally. I am eyeing a couple original blocks.

Working with original blocks, I find these bonnets and hats feel “average” to “small” for most modern women. Most of my pieces are average to small. I do try to regularly make average to large pieces as well. Each Etsy listing will have measurements.

• Small is 19.5″- 21″ (for a 21″ to 22″ head)
• Average is from 21″-22.5″ (for a 22″ to 23″ head)
• Large is 23″-23.5″, maybe 24″ (for a 23″ to 24″ head)

Pricing

I do my best to keep millinery pieces as affordable as possible. Please, keep in mind each piece is entirely hand crafted, that I hand sew each row of straw, and I hand select each trim used. With the current cost of straw, necessary materials and shipping, undecorated straw forms will start at $110. Variations in straw, style, and (brim) will influence the price.

Custom Orders

I am currently not taking requests or commissions or orders. I find if I take requests, I am quickly working too many months out. I don’t like keeping people waiting.

I will not do sales outside of Etsy because Etsy is also how I keep track of sales.

Winter Millinery

I offer winter millinery, quilted bonnets and wadded hoods, seasonally. This usually is from November through January.

For a little month, February sure has been packed full this year.

New Publications

I released two new publications this month. In Detail: Blue Ribbon Sewing Case is the first of a series of In Detail e-publications. This volume looks closely at an original sewing case made entirely from a blue plaid ribbon. Next, Balloon Style Workbag

Millinery

My hands were busy this month. I sewed 10 straw millinery pieces, decorating most of them. I really enjoyed decorating a bunch back to back. I still have several decorating ideas in my head too.

Have you subscribed to my blog yet? This is the best way to get notified first of new millinery pieces and new articles. Enter your email address to get email notifications and/or click “Follow My Blog”  to get WordPress feed notifications.

Little Projects

There were several little projects I worked on as well.

This first one was a spur-of-the-moment making. As I was neatening up the coffee trunk, I decided I had enough of the over-size spools not having a place on the spool holder. It was past time for a new spool holder. I happened to have an extra mini-plaque from the hat stands. For the sticks, I was too lazy to run to the hardware store, so four chopsticks worked just fine. I “polished” it with the dark wood polish to give it a little color.

Now, I have one spool holder for the small color spools and one spool holder for the straw colors.

I had this fabulous celestial fabric from Chestnut Bay. It was one of those fabrics that I just had to have but had no idea what I would do with it. After finishing up the directions for the balloon style bag, I realized this would be a great fabric to test up-sizing the bag for modern use. It came out as a really fun bag.

Coming up….

I am not sure what to put for coming up for March. It have lots of little life things scheduled, including some stressful ones, but I don’t have any events planned unless I do something for Maple Sugaring.

For the year, I am looking at several GCVM events: Jane/1812 in June, Independence Day, Chocolate weekend, and the Civil War event in July, A Novel Weekend in August, Ag Fair in October…. I will be giving a millinery talk in April at a closed event.

Projects:

It seems, I have made no progress on the Running Project Checklist:

• The Super Secret Project
• Pink Plaid Parasol
• Rose stripe sheer 1860s gown
• Pink plaid gown
• 1830s dress (Still from 2017)
• Red wool petticoat – hanging on the rail w/ the ribbon
• Blue wool skirt with tbd work bodice – wool hanging on the rail
• Embroidery on ticking relaxation project (kit from Colleen)
• Millinery piece for me
• Birdcage Windsor Chair – IN PROGRESS
• Modern quilted silk bag – pieces hanging on the door
• Winter Hood Book – LOTS of PHOTOS NEED TO BE TAKEN

I am excited to announce 2 New Publications in my Etsy shop!

In Detail: Blue Ribbon Sewing Case is an in-depth look at an amazing nineteenth century sewing case. This 12 page e-booklet explores the details of how this beautiful sewing case was made from a stunning blue plaid ribbon. It is packed full of more than three dozen photos.

I have been asked many times to put the directions for the Balloon Style Workbag together into a single PDF. It is Finally here! This type of bag spans the full of the nineteenth century, first as a reticule, then as a workbag. This 11 page e-booklet walks you through how to make this much loved project with directions and photos.

*

*

In celebration….. All my Etsy based publications are on a special SALE!!!

This sale runs through my February Recess.

Now is an excellent time to download a mid-winter read or project!

From Field to Fashion is on SALE

Paisley, Plaid, & Purled is on SALE

To Net, or Not to Net is on SALE

My Winter Bonnet Pattern is on SALE

My Winter Hood Pattern is on SALE

If you need a Snow Day project for the coming Valentine’s Day, or just because, Eliza Leslie and I have you covered.

Both of these projects can be made child friendly.

This fun heart from An American Girl’s Book is made from an elongated triangle. These can look great in silk or cotton. Each heart needs 2 triangles. Cut them out like below. Sew the two short sides completely. Sew the long side, leaving a space open. Turn the triangle right side out. Fill with emery or batting. Stitch the opening closed. Run a strong thread along the closed long side. Pull it up into a gather bringing the points together. A heart will form. Tie a ribbon on if desired.

For this playful pin-holder, I would recommend lighter weight pasteboard if using it as a pin-holder with small hearts. If this is for decoration, cardstock will do nicely. Embroidery ribbon would work well as the strings.

This has been the January that hasn’t felt like January…. At least for me. I am going to attribute this to the unusual weather we’ve had here in NY. Usually, January is “batten down the hatches” and “curl up by the fire.” Not this year. I haven’t checked the data, but I feel like we’ve had more days above freezing than below. The snow comes… piles up…. turns to ice… and melts. It has felt like we are tossing back and forth between two seasons: winter and spring.

My sewing has also tossed between winter and spring, with an assortment of snuggly winter hoods and looking ahead to warmth straw. Here are the pieces I made this January:

I started putting together my birdcage Windsor chair. This was a kit I picked up at the Big Springs Museum’s yardsale last summer. I thought it would be a good winter project. I just have a few finishing bits before it is completely assembled. Then, I get to paint it. That will be an outside project, I think. I am teetering between yellow and green right now. I can’t seem to document bright blue for this style.

I happily added a new plaster millinery block to the collection. Be sure to catch the video about it’s arrival. It is a mysterious shape. This addition has me thinking about a display with the blocks accompanied by examples of the styles they make.

Coming ahead:

I think I will do a glove sale during February recess. I have so many gloves from estate sales, but wear few of them. It is silly to have them sitting around in a box. I will photograph about a dozen or two ranging from wrist length to elbow length and put them up in Etsy at fun prices.

Projects:

I am going to try something new since I simultaneously have difficulty making time for projects for myself and recalling the little spur-of-the-moment things I make. In each month’s reflections, I will keep up a running project checklist to see if it helps me keep track.

Running Project Checklist:

• The Super Secret Project
• Pink Plaid Parasol
• Rose stripe sheer 1860s gown
• Pink plaid gown
• 1830s dress (Still from 2017)
• Red wool petticoat – I am now eyeing the brown moire ribbon – hanging on the rail
• Blue wool skirt with tbd work bodice – wool hanging on the rail
• Embroidery on ticking relaxation project (kit from Colleen)
• Millinery piece for me
• Birdcage Windsor Chair – IN PROGRESS
• Modern quilted silk bag – pieces hanging on the door
• Winter Hood Book – LOTS of PHOTOS NEED TO BE TAKEN
• Jewelry box for me – Considering feet on the glove boxes
• Something with the wool yarn and silk/wool yarn – yet tbd

https://youtu.be/iYGrwJOLz-A

EDIT Saturday morning: I keep staring at this block. One hour, I am two thirds pleased with my assessment. The next hour, I think I am wrong. Its that crown.

A Pumpkin hood is a style of sewn winter hood made in the first half of the nineteenth century and later eighteenth century. This type of hood is also known as a wadded hood or an “ugly.”

The pumpkin hood was commonly made with three pieces: the brim, crown, and bavolet. Rather than being quilted, the brim has parallel channels sewn across the head which were filled with wool wadding or down. Between these channels, narrower channels of cord help draw up the brim and give it light structure. Occasionally, some of these channels are cane or wire, though not as often as in quilted styles. The crown of this style tends to be small, with a row or two of additional wadding. The bavolet ranges from rather a rather short couple inches to as much as four inches.

The Pumpkin hood is one of the, if not the, warmest style hood as it hugs the head snuggly. The draw back is there is no protection for the face.

The exterior fabric is most frequently silk taffeta. The smooth, tight weave helps with moisture control. Dark solid silks out number the plaids and lighter colors, which were also used. The linings tend to be polished cotton or cotton sateen in neutral browns and creams. Most pieces have a facing of the exterior silk.

I find wool wadding to appear more frequently in originals than down. The wadding fairly evenly fills the channels, though not as firmly as some quilted hoods. These hoods are quite soft. The bavolet tends to be very lightly filled, though I suspect some loss has occurred over time for some pieces.

A bow tends to embellish the center back of the crown at the neckline. Some pieces also have a row of smaller bows or mock-bows along the top of the brim.

Additional Examples in Other Collections:

Late 18th, early 19th century example at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts

Mid-19th century plaid example at the McCord Museum

Plaid example at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts

1840s example at the Henry Ford Museum

A lappet style winter hood is distinguished by its elongated cheektabs reflecting the look of a lace lappet. These extended cheektabs align with a deep brim that comes forward of the face. Lappet style hoods are batted thinner than many other hoods. This makes it easy to fold back the brim. Laid flat, this deep brim and long lappets can protect the face. Folded back it allows for ease of vision.

This style hood is distinct among its quilted and wadded counterparts, yet lacked a name. The distinct long, wide cheektabs so similarly reflect a lappet’s shape and position of wear, the name lappet became obviously appropriate.

Lappet style hoods are found with three piece construction and two piece construction.

This hood is a three piece construction: crown, brim, and bavolet. This example has a green wool exterior and pink silk interior for the brim while the crown and bavolet are lined in green polished cotton. The pink silk interior would be visible if the brim was turned back. In most of this style, the neck edge of the crown, where the bavolet is attached, a channel is created so it can be drawn up for fit.

This next hood is a two piece construction: a combined brim/crown piece and a bavolet. Notice the bavolet length is on the longer side compared with other styles of winter hoods. This hood had the same green with pink color combination as the one above, but the exterior and interior are both silk.

This all black example is a three piece construction with an silk exterior and interior. You can see a line where this brim was turned back.

Lappet style hoods in other collections:

This pink lappet style hood is currently on display at the Genesee Country Village and Museum. It is shown with the brim turned back. You can see how the neck edge of the crown can be drawn up inside for comfort and fit.

18th century example at the Boston Museum of Fine Art

1850 example at the MET

Pattern:

To make your own lappet style winter hood

It is amazing how the construction of this tiny doll size hood follows that of similar human size hoods. The five wadded channels are seperated by little cords. A narrow ruffle edges the front brim. The horseshoe back is hand quilted. The inside is brown cotton. Tiny bows top the brim and the bottom mid-crown.

Okay, so I am attempting to type as factual as possible, but I am really squeeling inside. This hood is soooo ridiculously fabulous. It is so small and so perfect. I feel so lucky to now be its caretaker.

The inside

The back and top

Details