If I Had My Own Blue Box:

This is a quick and rough version of measuring for my Civil War Era hats. I have this really cute version of understanding how CW era hats sit and how to measure for mine. But, that is going to take a couple days of computer work. So, for now, here is this version with quick, hair roughly tied up, taken in the bathroom photos of me. 

Step one: Push what you know about modern hat sizes and fit out of your mind. Nineteenth century hats are not worn how modern hats are worn.

Measuring 

Measure your head at the hairline. This is close to where most of your hats for this era will be worn. Measure here, parallel to the ground, or at least fairly parallel to the ground. 

Here is my head with the tape showing where to measure. This is where I wear most CW era hats. This is the circumference of my head. My measurement is 21 1/2″. (Note: this is a full inch smaller than the modern measurement take lower.)  

When selecting a CW era fashionable hat, subtract an inch from your head measurement. A 19 1/2″ to 20″ low brim or Mousquetaire hat fits me.
Another thing to know about your head is whether it is more round or more oval. This is because some of my blocks are more oval or more round. If you know this, I can advise you if this is a factor. Here is the top of my head. I have an average oval head. Very round hats dont work for me without adding to the lining. 

Fit

The majority of Civil War Era fashionable hats are worn high on the head. This is roughly at the hairline for most people. There are some that are worn higher and some that are worn lowered. Here is a sampling of photos from my “ooo, I need to make that folder” in my tablet. Notice how high each sits and that some of them sit tilted back (admittedly this may be for photographing purposes) which may be earlier. 

Here is an assortment of illustrations to compare: 

This is a low brim hat. It sits at my hairline. This one is an inch too large for me. 

This is the Mousquetaire style with the higher crown and narrower brim. This sits at my hairline as well. Illustrations and photos suggest this style sits at or below the hairline in the era. 

This is the brimless toque style. Photos suggest this should sit lower on the head than other fashionable styles. For this style, select a hat the same as the measure of your head or a little larger if you want to bind the crown edge.   (so tempting.) 

I’ve been enjoying working with black straw this spring break. Okay, maybe my eyes have been getting a bit tired. I’ve made a chapeau cloche, a brimless toque, a Mousquetaire finished in purple velvet, and a Mousquetaire that will be finished in green. 

I have narrow black set aside for two doll bonnets (already claimed) Beyond that, I am going to need to order more black straw to make the other black straw pieces I have in my visual project list. (Aka my tablet’s photo files, which shamefully does not have source citations.) 

[#Beginning of Shooting Data Section] Nikon D50 2006/11/02 09:59:51.7 Compressed RAW (12-bit) Image Size: Large (3008 x 2000) Lens: 55-200mm F/4-5.6 G Focal Length: 66mm Exposure Mode: Manual Metering Mode: Center-Weighted 1/100 sec – F/10 Exposure Comp.: 0 EV Sensitivity: ISO 800 Optimize Image: Custom White Balance: Auto AF Mode: AF-A Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached Color Mode: Mode II (Adobe RGB) Tone Comp.: User-Defined Custom Curve Hue Adjustment: 0° Saturation: Enhanced Sharpening: None Image Comment: Brooklyn Museum Costume Project Long Exposure NR: Off [#End of Shooting Data Section]

Show me your favorite black straw hat or bonnet…. 

This fashionable brimless hat has a stylish V dip in the front. 

It is really tempting to decorate this hat with the zigzag ribbon like the photo below. 

The March project is up just under the wire. This is a quick project for our feline friends:

A Primitive Wool Fish Toy

While I have yet to see a flower breaking through the ground, I hear they are out there. This means spring is coming and it is time to answer some of the most frequently asked questions about my straw millinery….

Where can I find your bonnets or hats? My are only available through my Etsy Shop. I announce them here in my blog when I post them in Etsy.

When are straw bonnets or hats available? During the school year, I make about one piece per week. I sew more frequently in the summer while school is out (the very end of June through the end of August here.) 

How do I find out about new pieces? I post new pieces to my shop and blog first. The easiest way to see these pieces first, is to subscribe to this blog. (over on the right) This way you receive email notifications of new posts including the posts with new millinery pieces.

What makes your hats and bonnets different from those at merchants/sutlers? The straw hats and bonnets I make are made with straw plait, sewn in the round entirely by hand. Each piece is based on many years of research, using original pieces for study, and blocked on hand made and antique millinery blocks.  Mass marketed bonnets and hats are machine sewing on lesser plait, heat pressed, die cut, and machine edged in in-accurate shapes.

How do I know what size hat I wear? Most Civil War Era hats sit high on a person’s head. There are a few exception, such as the Mousquitiare hat. 

For Civil War era hats – Please measure around your head at your hairline. Subtract 1″ to 1.5″. This is approximately the circumference of the hat’s crown you will need. For example: I have a 21.5″ head. I wear a 19.5″ to 20″ low crown hat. (I wear a 20.5″ Mousquitiare hat.)

For Regency era hats – These hats sit further down on your head. Measure in the same spot. Choose a hat close to or slightly larger than your measurement. (remember lining can take up an good inch inside.)

For other eras – I will try to annotate these clearly.

Do you take Custom Orders? This year I will not be taking custom orders at least until the summer.

How can I pay for a bonnet or hat? All of my sales go through Etsy. I don’t mind paying Etsy their fees because Etsy keeps track of my sales, my sales tax, and makes doing my taxes easier.

Do I make drawn bonnets, sunbonnets, etc? – No. I do not make drawn bonnets any more.

I focus on straw millinery, sewn winter bonnets/hoods, and the occasional evening headdress.

Do you make doll millinery? Yes, I do make doll millinery. These are occasional pieces that I will make available in my shop. Please keep in mind dolls are harder to fit than humans.

This put a much needed smile on my face this morning.

I love the fabrics Beth picked out for her pin cushion. This little cushion is just so much fun.

Beth’s Bobbin’s Pillow Pin Cushion.

I had a question from a reader about whether the Mousquetaire hat would be appropriate for archery. Then there was a technical glitch. I don’t know if she got the second answer. 

Here is a section from The Lady’s Friend, 1864 on archery. Notice the shape of the hat. It is pretty close to the shape of the Mousquetaire. So, I think it would be okay trimmed simply for the activity. 

Mousquetaire hats have tapered crowns that rise about four to five inches, not quite double the height of other fashion hats of the early 1860s. The brim is shaped, with a curve dipping front and back. This brim is narrow, only a few inches wide. The decorations are primarily at the center front, reaching the height of the crown. A ribbon may or may not circle the crown with a bow or arrangement in the back. This shape is also called a Postilion Hat.

   Fig. 3 is a Mousquetaire hat of Leghorn or white straw. Round the hat is a scarf of blue ribbon, with a large bow and long fringed ends at the back; in front is a rosette of black and white speckled feathers, surrounded by an edging of blue flowers or bluets. The brim is edged with black velvet.  (Godey’s, August, 1864)

Fig. 7 is a Mousquetaire hat drab straw, trimmed by two narrow bands of scarlet velvet, and having in front a plume of black and red feathers, and one large ostrich feather. (Godey’s, July, 1864)

Hats of the Mousquetaire or Postillion shape from Godey’s 1864:

Hats of this shape from The Lady’s Friend, 1864. 

This month’s update may get a bit long….

Of course, I have to mention how I kicked off the month: I released my new book To Net, or Not to Net: Revisited. I am excited to make this deeper look at hair nets available. I filled it with photos and illustrations. Okay, maybe I went a little over-board.

I finally started working on straw for the season with this two tone Civil War era hat. It is nice to start sewing straw again. It is quite relaxing for me with the focus and the rhythm. (It would be nice to solve the straw on the rug problem though. Tis the season of the over-worked vacuum.) I really like the shape of this new hat block. I still need to give it a name.

I have Galaxy out, the 1840s block, so I can make a couple 1840s bonnets in honor of the coming exhibit at the Wehle Gallery: Victoria’s Closet. Look for those soon.

The Coming In April

• April 13th – Opening day of the Victoria’s Closet exhibit at the Wehle Gallery at the Genesee Country Village and Museum, during their Antique Show and Sale.
• April 28th – I’ll be talking about Millinery in Situ during the 140th’s Civilian Seminar.
• I am still working out some details on special projects this year. Hopefully, I’ll be able to share those soon.

Dress Projects

I have two dress projects I am pondering for myself. The first being an 1850s or 1860s dress from my birthday fabric. I pictured a larger scale when I saw the image online. I tend to get scale off when looking at a screen. I wanted a fabric that would be a fun challenge to work with. The bold red stripe over the subtler, smaller stripes fit the bill.

Leave it to me to buy an 1850s-60s fabric for my birthday and moments later decide it would be good to make an 1840s dress to go with the Victoria’s Closet exhibit. Yup. Go me.
1840s….. dropped waist that is allusively small, bias galor, gathers from the shoulders across the bust, sleeves more full on the bottom… pretty fabrics…

For me, I have a couple hurdles – I don’t exactly have a small firm waist and will have some trouble with the appropriate corset for that. Second, my short arms are upside down for the ideal, rather fluffy on top and smaller on bottom. Both hurdles will need to be worked with and around.

Here is one possibility. I am picturing this is a bold semi-sheer that I think I have at home. I think. I like the asymmetric opening and gathering, as well as the control over the pleats. I think a semi-sheer will gather or pleat in with much less bulk. Those sleeves just aren’t going to cut it though. Sure, fitted bias at the top. But from just above the elbow down, it needs some fullness. Oh, and maybe not that white extension from the collar.

Did you know you can have OfficeMax or Staples print your paper copy of To Net, or Not to Net or Paisley, Plaid, and Purled or From Field to Fashion? Not only printed, but printed and bound.

You simply upload the file that you downloaded from Etsy,  select the printing, paper and binding. Then pick your printed copy up from the store. Piece of cake.

For To Net, or Not to Net and Paisley, Plaid, and Purled, I would suggest color printing and one of the spiral, coil or comb bindings. For From Field to Fashion, the booklet format in black and white may suit better.

A couple tips:  – Be sure to check if either store has a discount available.  – Check to see if you have a local print or computer shop that offers this service as well.