If I Had My Own Blue Box:

I am reposting favorite helpful posts each Monday throughout March, April, and May. This is the newest of the reposts.

If you have been following even for a short while, you know I love pockets. I love making pockets. I love having pockets.

For years, I carried a basket or a purse. It would get filled with a myriad of this and that, period and modern.

All this stuf I thought I needed to have on me.

Extra water, a camera, a little money…. You know what? It all just added up and added up. Frankly, it was heavy and a PITA.

It also wasn’t accurate.

Then, one glorious day, I learned about pockets. Dresses had pockets! We aren’t talking the wimpy pockets in women’s jeans that barely hold a few dollars and a small set of keys. We are talking huge, mother of all pockets!

Skeptical?

Don’t think they could be that big?

Take a look at my dress from a few years ago. Okay, 15 years ago. (Ignore the hair falling down and the gloves for rusty nails. This was a heavy work day, building fences and moving corn.) The pocket in that dress is holding my lunch including a couple bottles of water and bananas. Can you tell?

I wear two pockets when dressed in Victorian era clothing. Each of my 1830s through 1860s dresses has a pocket on one side, preferably the right side. In this pocket goes the things I need throughout the day of the event, the period items. On the other side is a separate pocket that sits either below my skirt or below my skirt and upper petticoat. This pocket holds the modern items I hope not to need during an event but should have on me in case of emergency or when I leave.

The dress pocket with period items holds:

• Building key
• A small wallet/pocket with ID and cash. This is roughly 3.5”x2.5”.
• Handkerchief
• Possibly a workpocket
• Possibly a purse (a small item that carries money)
• Possibly a fan
• Possibly a glass

My seperate tie-in pocket holds:

• Epipen
• Medications I need immediate access to
• Car key (mine pop apart)
• Phone if I need it

This video shows a sampling of what I carry in my pockets:

Want your own pocket? I have a few available in my Etsy shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AnnaWordenBauersmith?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=1086425702&section_id=10182162

Pocket Basics

Pockets as tie-on, seperate pockets appear long before the nineteenth century, centuries before. In the eighteen century, they were often worn in pairs, one one each side of the body. They were accessed through the two slits formed when putting on petticoats. When skirt supports were worn, pockets hung beneath the supports. (That was an incredibly short generalization about centuries of this accessories history. I highly recommend reading into these eras further.)

Wearing tie-on pockets continued into the nineteenth century with a short interlude during the Regency era with the wearing of higher waisted, often diaphanous dresses.

By the mid-nineteenth century, pockets became part of the skirt construction. They were most often set into the seam of a skirt. Originals show pockets were long, wide enough for the hand to fit comfortably, and both rounded or squared on the bottom. They are often a plain or cotton print with the seam to the outside of the pocket. Sometimes a support stay attaches to the pocket part way down and to the waistband. A straight edge of the pocket lines up with the skirt seam, and the skirt edge folds over the edge of the pocket. I prefer to do two rows of stitches around the edge of my pocket for a strong pocket.

While seperate pockets grew less common by the 1840s and 50s as dress pockets became more common, they were still in use and recommended for situations like travel.

When I first wrote this post, there were a pair of pockets embroidered by sisters Mary Ann and Hannah Rose Brigham of New Hampshire in an Etsy shop One is dated 1850. Both show wear indicating their use.

What did they carry in their pockets?

I plan to make a post/video showing how a pocket looks under the skirt and how it is accessed.

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Additional Resources

List of pockets from the 19th century: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KISeV0ZVhD2SOsF_lJ71DI9RrVLu2C5lLPsk8T5Fonw/edit?usp=drivesdk

Section on pockets from the Workwoman’s Guide, 1837:

The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women’s Lives by Barbara Buurman. Available on Amazon and your local bookstore.

Articles about Pockets:

• Pockets of History (VADS)
• Women’s Tie-on Pockets (V&A)
• Picking the DAR Museum’s Pockets
• What’s in a Pocket? (RICHS)

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Are you one of the many readers enjoying my millinery blog posts?
Consider becoming a Patreon patron. Doing so helps support my work and helps me write more useful articles.
https://www.patreon.com/AMillinersWhimsy

I am reposting favorite helpful posts each Monday throughout March, April, and May.

A couple years ago, I wrote an article/post called “Pizza and the Piggy Bank” that looked at which items to save up for and which items could be had for less than the cost of a pizza. It was a fun article to write and helped put some perspective on the cost of things. Since writing that article, I’ve often compared items to the cost of a pizza. (I also price life expenses in comparison to the number of bonnets it will take to cover.) I thought I would revisit the “Less than a Pizza” list with some revisions.
When I wrote the initial list, I could get a medium vegetable covered pizza for about $25. That price has gone up a little to about $30. So, this list will include items that can be had for $30 or less.

For the Price of a Pizza (or less)

1. Drawers and chemise in linen. I have recently been converted to a linen chemise lover. A linen chemise is comfortable, soft, and cooler. Subscribe to http://www.fabrics-store.com to receive their regular sales offers. In doing so, you will see their light, handkerchief linen come up for $6-$7/ yard. This fabric is 58” wide, so you only need 2 yards for a chemise and 2 yards for drawers. Prewash the linen for shrinkage and to soften it.
2. Petticoat – I am of the opinion that once can never have too many petticoats to choose from. Most of us within a few inches of average height can make a simple petticoat from four to five yards of cotton. Quality premium muslin can be had for $3.99 at certain craft stores. Using a coupon/code to save 50%, this brings a petticoat to $20. Poplin at Dharma Fabrics is $6.50 for a 55” width. A three panel petticoat would be about $26 (4yards), while a 4 panel does tip us over the pizza price at $32.50 (5 yards). I am assuming you have mother of pearl buttons laying around. If not, add $.25-$.50. But, pick these up when you see them.
3. Wool Petticoat. While we are talking about petticoats, I will add a wool petticoat to the list. Two yards of tropical to light weight wool is plenty for a warm wool petticoat. You may also want a yard of scrap cotton from your stash for a yoke and waistband, minimizing the bulk at the top.
4. Personal Linens. New personal linens can spruce up a wardrobe for little money, be it cuffs, collars, or pelerines. Purchasing a few yards of cotton lawn from Dharma ($6/yard) can result in several sets of cuffs and a few collars, or a few pelerines. These will give you a chance to practice your rolled hems too.
5. A Pocket. I am a big advocate of pockets, both set into the skirt and under the skirt. A pocket will get things out of your hands. It will also eliminate the need to have something to carry your things in. A simple pocket can be made from a half yard of linen or cotton.
6. Wool Shawl with fringed edges. This will take 2 yards of light to medium weight wool in an
   appropriate plaid, check, or solid. This can be found at discount fabric shops like
   http://www.fabricmartfabrics . I suggest waiting for wool to be under $10/ yard to keep this under the pizza limit with shipping. Or, watch for someone destashing wool. Plan on two movies during a rainy or snowy weekend to fringe the whole shawl, or do one side per evening. Check out my earlier post of fringing.
7. Work Pocket. I am a little bias here. But, I think everyone should have a work pocket, or sewing case, or housewife. This little roll can tuck away needed sewing tools as well as be a great interpretive device. It can act as a story all rolled up in fabric.
8. Sunbonnet. A sunbonnet is essential for protecting your head and face from the sun and elements. As much as we love the pretty, fancy bonnets and hats, some times, many times, a sunbonnet is needed. I recommend checking out the remnants or end cuts of your local quilt shop for small period prints that will work for a sunbonnet. You will want a yard and a half of 45” fabric. I also love white semi-sheer weaves for corded sunbonnets. Since this often comes 54”-60” widths, a single yard is enough. Hop over to http://www.thesewingacademy.com for directions on how to make your own corded sunbonnet.
9. Cap. If you interpret an era that wore caps, a new cap can be made from a yard of voile, which is currently $6.87 a yard at Dharma.
10. Hair Dressing Kit. I will make a point to do a video on my favorite hair dressing items in the future. The whole kit can be made for less than a pizza.

Helpful Hints

• Create a sewing plan. Note where common fabrics will need to be purchased from (ie: Dharma or Fabrics-Store) so you can save up and purchase in sets.
• Optimize shipping costs by pairing up with friends nearby. Plan similar projects together (all do
  personal linens or caps) or let each other know when you are ordering from a particular place.
• Subscribe to online stores with essentials. Practice self control with their sales.
• Know your local shops. Get on their mailing lists if they have sales.
• Join a couple destash groups if you are on social media.

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Are you one of the many readers enjoying my millinery blog posts?
Consider becoming a Patreon patron. Doing so helps support my work and helps me write more useful articles.
https://www.patreon.com/AMillinersWhimsy

Some time around 10 this morning I thought to myself:

“I used to do this a lot faster.”

I got home from a “quick” errand yesterday, I guess that would be Friday, and pulled out my red plaid wool challis. It was time to stop imagining the math and figure out just where the plaids will land. My hope was to get the red stripe section to sit at the hem of the skirt. Why? Dirt. Being an loose weave wool, this dress will not be washed often if ever. It will be brushed off and spot cleaned. If I absolutely have to, I will soak it. Putting the bolder band of red at the bottom will also, hopefully, help with period esthetic, drawing the eye out as it goes down, creating width to the hem.

The tape measure told me the plaids repeat every 8 or 8.5 inches. Good and bad. Good in that this gives a repeat times 5 that is just a little over my normal panel length of 42inches. This let the panels sit with the red section just above the bottom. Bad in that the repeats are not exact, meaning there is some variation in the weave tightness. Given the price, I should not be surprised. This does tell me wonkiness could happen as I proceed. Good to know.

I measured and marked my panel lengths… separated the skirt section from the bodice/sleeves section… pulled threads… and cut the panels. Lining up the plaids, I stitched each of the panels together and felled the seams.

I had planned on gauging this skirt. But, luckily I decided to do two sample areas. I changed my mind and went with stacked knife pleats. The math worked out nicely. Yes, I pleat with math. I like math. An interesting thing developed because I used directional pleats. On one side, I got a nice red, red, white, grey sequence in balance. On the opposite side, folding the other way, the white and grey dominated.

About two thirds of the way around, the sun had passed over and settled my livingroom into shadows. I continued on with a section of gauging for the center back.

There was just enough light to tear sections for the hem. I pieced them together and clipped them in place. Then, I looked at the clock. Wasn’t it just one o’clock? How was it after eight and getting dark?

This morning, I grabbed the skirt right after feeding the feline keeper of time. Opened the blinds and sat down to the hem. Around and around the 180 inches. Attach the facing. Hem the facing. Attach the tape. Fold the tape.

Somewhere in there, around ten I think, I thought to myself

“I used to do this a lot faster.”

In the, what 8? 10? hours I’ve spent hand sewing this skirt, I would have sewn the whole dress – skirt, bodice, and sleeves.

But, I wouldn’t be happy with how the plaids lined up. I wouldn’t be happy with the weight of the seams with the stiff thread.

This slow sewing is just fine for me. I can curl up with my fabric. I can pay attention to the details.

Now, I’ve been typing away and completely lost track of where I was going with all this. The skirt is ready to be set on the waist. The rest of the wool is neatly folded and waiting. I need to get out the binder of patterns to pick out the pieces.

But first I have strawberries to bead.

“Saw a squirrel”

“Lost down a rabbit hole”

I this case, the squirrel really was a squirrel. Well a pocket full of them.

Glancing at my tablet, while working through sewing tasks on a day packed full of sewing tasks, I saw this post from The Lady’s Magazine (1770-1819): Patterns of Perfection. An 1772 pocket full of squirrels. The little squirrels had the cutest faces and fluffiest tails.

My mind got rolling the images around. I saw one squirrel center stage. The two as a pair, showing off those tails. Tails in? Faces in? Hmmm….

Playing around with Paint and Publisher (yes, I am old school. No fancy new programs in my budget. I am still just on my second own laptop.) I enlarged the squirrel. Gave her a friend. Changed the shape of the pocket border a bit. The rest was done by hand. Changed the size of the sprig and flipped it around. Cut it in half to make it printable…. To make my version of the squirrel pocket:

I had been cutting out doll pockets earlier when I was supposed to be cutting out full size pockets. So, I knew I had materials for a linen pocket already cut out. It was like it was waiting for these squirrels.

I inked out the design on the linen. The border had to be swung into place around the rounder shaped pocket. The original has more of a rounded off trapezoid shape.

My precut pocket had more of a rounded shape and more height. This made room for an additional leave for each side of the border. It also has space for another sprig. It will be either the center bottom sprig from the original design or one of the smaller sprigs. I will decide when I get most or all of the embroidery in. The leaves of the border will each have veins and little dots as the original. I am not yet sure what those dots are though.

Looking in my sparcely filled floss box…. the squirrels will be a couple shades of brown, the leaves green, and the flowers likely a blue. The nuts the squirrels are eating may be cream.

If someone knows whether variegated floss was used in the 18th or early 19th centuries, please let me know. I found I like the variegated greens for vines and leaves.

Patreon Patrons will be receiving the pdf of the single page and double page versions.

I am reposting favorite helpful posts each Monday throughout March, April, and May.

My recommendations for a basic hair kit:
● Straight hair pins
● Faux tortoise hair pins
● Plain black elastics
● Hair Pomade
● A Plain net or two
● Faux horn hair comb or two

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I am lucky enough to be able to purchase these items in person, includong the straight hairpins during a day trip through the Finger Lakes. Not everyone has similar local resources. With this in mind, I am including two shopping lists: one that can be done online from home and one that can be done mostly in person. The online list supports small businesses, with the exception of one item through Amazon.

Shopping from home for approx $38.00:
Order from Timely Tresses:
~~1 set of faux tortoise hair pins $4.00 or 4 chignon faux tortoise hair pins $5.00
~~1 plain hair net $4.00
~~1 back comb $4.00 or 2 side combs $4.00
Amazon:
~~2 sets of 12 straight hair pins in 2” or 3″ and 2.5” $12.00
Talbott and Co on Etsy:
~~1 tin of pomade $14.00

Shopping mostly in person for approx $25:
Local pharmacy:
~~Plain hairnet $2 for a set of 3
~~Faux tortoise hair pins $3
~~Hair elastics $2
Amish dry goods shop:
~~Straight hair pins 2 sets for $4
Talbott and Co on Etsy:
~~1 tin of pomade $14.00

Sources:

• Timely Tresses http://www.timelytresses.com/store/c20/Hair_Dressings.html
• Talbott and Co. https://etsy.me/3pH7zNH
• Beth Miller Hall https://etsy.me/3pJ1UXb
• LBCC https://etsy.me/3cGXdYB
• Amazon items: 2.5″ Straight hair pins

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Are you one of the many readers enjoying my millinery blog posts?
Consider becoming a Patreon patron. Doing so helps support my work and helps me write more useful articles.
https://www.patreon.com/AMillinersWhimsy

It has been many weeks since I did a video. This was meant to be an unboxing video but turned into a lot of banter about spring recess.

It is entirely possible I have a lot to say tucked up inside my head.

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In an ideal world, we would all research thoroughly before making a purchase. But, this is the real world. We get excited. We see something. It comes home with us. Or, we are gifted something. Or, there is a special sale.

Let’s talk about goals first. I often I have to remind myself my goals are not someone else’s goals. This means my expectations for a reproduction item depicting material culture may not be the same as yours. I recommend identifying your personal goals and writing them down to reference when developing your wardrobe for historical interpretation or enjoyment.

Is it a health risk?

I know it seems extreme for me to start with this. But, this is one I am passionate about. Regardless of your goals. Regardless of the events you choose to attend. I want you to be as healthy as possible.

What does this have to do with bonnets?

Heat stroke

Most living history events are heald on days meant to be beautiful sunny, warm days. Many of these get down right Hot. As the temperatures rise into the 90s and even over 100 degrees, it is extremely important that heat escapes the top of your head. Please, do Not wear synthetic felt bonnets or hats. This can contribute to overheating, heat-exhaustion, and heat stroke.

Similarly, if you are attending a cold weather event, including fall events as the temperatures shift and winds pick up, please do not wear summer fashion bonnets with no protection. Protect your head, face, and ears. I can tell you from experience frost-bite takes years to heal.

Get to know your bonnet

I recommend getting to know your bonnet, and your bonnet’s family. This will allow you to more confidently wear your bonnet and answer questions about it correctly.

Review basic bonnet anatomy for the period with this post and video. While doing so, identify the parts and materials on your bonnets. It is important to know what they are and why they were used. In some cases, modern substitutions may have been made due to availability, sustainability, ethics, or cost.

Next, spend some time getting to know your bonnet’s family by looking at originals and photographs. Try to see the similarities as well as the changes that take place from year to year. If you tend to question yourself, assemble a collage of images supporting your bonnet. Save this image.

In doing this, you may find you want to make improvements either to this bonnet or for your next bonnet. Make notes of this with visual support and save it in a convenient location.

When to part ways

Sometimes a bonnet no longer meets our personal standards. This may be because of an inaccuracy, be it structural or material, or because is has had a mishap, or time has gotten the better of it. In such a case, it is best to find the bonnet a better home or pack it away so it is no longer a temptation to be worn.

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Are you one of the many readers enjoying my millinery blog posts?
Consider becoming a Patreon patron. Doing so helps support my work and helps me write more useful articles.
https://www.patreon.com/AMillinersWhimsy

Congratulations! You have a reproduction hat. It may be one of mine. It may be one made by another talented milliner. In either case, you are ready for the next step.

This post is for you. This post will cover the most common topics and questions about reproduction straw hats for the 1850s and 1860s. Some of these answers will apply to other eras as well.

My hat is too big.

Good news – this is a fairly easy adjustment. If a hat is just a bit too big, meaning it wiggles but doesn’t flop, a lining ribbon or a lining can help it fit better. A cotton sateen or petersham ribbon around the inside is generally recommended for comfort anyway. Adding a thin layer of cotton or wool batting behind the ribbon can thicken the reduction while adding soft comfort. Adding a lining to the crown or crown and brim can also improve the fit. Choose a silk taffeta, silk organza, or cotton organdy. Light gathers will bring the size in a little, while denser gathers will bring it in even more.

My hat is too small.

First, double check how you are wearing your hat by comparing to original images. In the modern era we tend to wear hats lower on our head, coming down onto the forehead. In the mid-19th century, hats were worn much higher on the head. This can make a hat feel too small while it is actually the right size for you.

If you find a hat is truly too small, consider passing it along. A straw hat can be stretched a small amount with the aid of a hat stretcher and mist bottle. This will likely effect the shape of the crown, possibly distorting it from its blocked period shape.

I want to decorate my hat.

This is the fun part. Be sure to spend some time looking at original images before starting. You will find period fashion illustrations show densely decorated hats while period photographs show a little more restraint. Elements most often include ribbon, flowers, and feathers either center front or to one side with the ends of ribbon to the back.

Use a strong, sharp needle and thread to tack trims in place. Use large stitches that are secure yet removable. This way you can change the trims as desired. Please do not use glues on straw. Floral arrangements can be made in whole or pieces prior to attaching to the hat. They can be tacked in place with thread or with pins.

Line the interior of the crom for added comfort. This can be done with a cotton sateen or petersham ribbon around the crown edge or a silk taffeta, silk organza, or cotton organdy lining the crown or crown and brim. The lining can be added before or after the trim. Each milliner does it differently.

My hat won’t stay on my head.

As hats of the era were worn higher on the head, they often do not feel secure. Original hats show an elastic cord or ribbon ties was placed where the brim and crown meet, approximately just above the ear area. This cord or ties would go behind the head, securing under the hair arrangement. I find quarter to half inch wide cotton sateen or cotton petersham work well for this as they tie and untie easily without getti g stuck on the hair.

Period photographs show some hats also had wide, decorative ribbons sitting over the ear area, just in front of where these ties would be. These ribbons can be fairly wide, often plaid or striped. Rosettes or bows can be seen in front of the ears.

Can I wear a hairnet with a hat?

A plain hairnet is a hair accessory, an item used in arranging or dressing the hair. As such it was worn with a variety of millinery items, including hats. Remember, these nets were light weight and fine, made of silk threads or hair. Decorative nets, such as those made of woven ribbons, are also see in illustrations worn with hats. Ribbon headdresses, such as those on a foundation with pleated or ruched ribbon may not combine well with a hat as the hat will crush the ruche or the ruche will cause the hat not to sit properly

Hat FAQ Video

This video contains several helpful pieces of information on hats:

My hat might not be right.

Sadly, sometimes merchants or other reenactors sell hats that are not considered accurate. The reality is a great deal of progress has been made in understanding the fashionable hat of the 1859s and 1860s over the past two decades. Thanks to the surge in easily accessible resources, such as period fashion illustrations, photographs, and originals, we now know more about who wore hats, when they wore them, and what those hats look like. This also means that hats produced years ago are no longer considered as correct as they once were.

If you find yourself with a hat that may not be accurate, take some time to look at period images and original hats. Look at their shape and their proportions. Then go back to your hat. Honestly decide whether the hat can be improved and if you have the time, skill, and resources to do so. For some, this can be a challenge project. For some, this can be an added frustration.

Improvements can come in the form of wiring a hat’s brim edge, removing rows of plait from the edge, or shortening the crown at the base. Each of these can feel simple or overwhelming to a person. Please keep in mind sewing straw is different from sewing fabric. It may or may not be something you are comfortable with. If the answer is “no”, pass the hat along to a local theater or use it for something else.

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Are you one of the many readers enjoying my millinery blog posts?
Consider becoming a Patreon patron. Doing so helps support my work and helps me write more useful articles.
https://www.patreon.com/AMillinersWhimsy