Shawls from the Textile Museum of Canada

I should be sleeping. Instead I am looking at shawls.

Take a look at this early 19th century border plaid shawl from the Textile Museum of Cananda. They call several of their shawls buggy shawls. This small plaid shawl is interesting in that it is said to be hand spun. It is late 19th century. I would love a closer look at this shawl. It has an unusual design to the twill weave. It also has a pair of borders on set of sides but a single on the other. I would like to see if the opposite, unbordered side has signs of being cut. It also looks rather heavy. That may just be the photograph though. The soft, natural texture to the color of this late century shawl is lovely. Take a look at the fringing, which is uneven and looks hand fringed. This is another must see in person shawl. Just take a look. You will see it in an instant. They have it noted as hand spun and woven. I wonder if it is possible it was done on a smaller loom at home To me it looks like it may have been a larger shawl with the center removed or something else causing the center merge. Based on mid-19th century shawls, I would think this should be a square, but it is not as are many of the shawls found here. Pondering… The vertical red border plaid’s stripe are stunning here.  They have a half dozen other ‘buggy shawls’.

This is an unusual shawl from the paisley family. It is from the second quarter of the 19th century. The movement of the motifs is rather nice. This double square is more common for the paisley family, these are as well  one two  three and others. This one shows that not all centers are red, white or black. You can find them in yellows, bright blues, greens. This is an example of a double field, one in red, one in white. Here is a second, which I think (but not sure) may be using the technique used for reversible shawls. I just love how this kashmire paisley plays with color.

They left a wide range of dating for this lace shawl. Wouldn’t it be nice if we could get these reproduced?  

Oh, no. My contacts are drying out with 30 pages left to look at…. more when I can.

Published in: on December 6, 2010 at 11:13 pm  Leave a Comment  

Shawl image

I was excited to stumble across this image and collection this evening. While not mid-19th century, these early 20th century women were from weaving areas of Scotland and may have been related to weavers. In the image 5 examples of 4 different kinds of shawls – two solid, one large scale windowpane plaid, one plaid, and one border plaid.

Published in: on December 6, 2010 at 10:47 pm  Leave a Comment  

Checks and Plaids

This week a friend asked advice about purchasing a shawl. The answer was a definite yes, as long as she sent me pictures. In the end, she ended up with two great shawls.

Her asking about the shawl in question brought up a couple points on shawls. Barbara was looking for a double square, wool shawl. Using some of her words, she was looking for a big fluffy WARM shawl and not a foo-foo shawl. When I get questions about a shawl being purchasable, the shawl is usually one from the paisley family or occasionally a printed shawl. It is less often I get questions about a common woven wool shawl. The reality is, it should be the other way around. The majority of the paisley family of shawls were on the higher end of the cost spectrum, being worn for nicer occasions. The printed shawls became a more affordable response, with the aid of advancing industrial processes, to the desire for nicer, fancier shawls. While many women, and men, may have owned a shawl from the paisley family, the average woman would have had more occasion to wear a wool shawl. In living history terms, we are more likely to be interpreting situations where a woven wool shawl is appropriate then a nicer paisley or printed shawl. A nicer shawl is appropriate for some dinners, some evening social events, some church services, some weddings and other ceremonies. An everyday shawl is more appropriate for wearing while sewing at home, going to market, visiting on a regular day, running out to the barn or chicken coop, gardening, volunteering at the aid society, basic everyday life. This everyday shawl, in my opinion, should be a staple in each interpreter’s wardrobe. Cheers to Barbara!! 

Now on to her shawls.

The shawl she initially asked about was this beautiful double square red check. I was thrilled to see a surviving double square in a red check available. (a double square is a shawl that is twice as long as it is wide, usually 60″ by 120″, also called a plaid regardless of design.) What stuck in my mind as this shawl found its new owner, was the tendency of reenactors and interpreters to play it safe, buying what they see or are comfortable with, whether accurate or not. How does this related to this shawl? The check. When it comes to buying or making an everyday wool shawl, it seems we most often go with a symmetrical plaid or a solid (see the close-up of her other shawl below.) I don’t see a check like this worn often at all. Why? I have a couple thoughts. The first is we wear what we see and what we are comfortable with. Second, extant documentation under represents what I believe was actually available. Going huh?  Basically, there are fewer surviving examples of small check shawls then women actually had. In general, there are fewer everyday, working class shawls remaining then the nicer paisleys, lace and higher end silks. A few things may have happened to cause this. The everyday shawls could have been worn out in their day. These shawls could have been deemed by the owner not worth saving. Or, at some point between the mid-19th century and now, the shawls were deemed not as important and worth conserving as other items. Either way, we have fewer examples of everyday shawls to look at and even fewer small checks. Does this mean they didn’t exist as much? Of course not. When looking at original images, we see small check shawls represented. This post-war image shows a small check with a border design. (Sorry, only one on hand until I find the right disk with more images.)  Small check wools are an acceptable choice for a shawl when purchasing a shawl or fabric for a shawl.

I am very glad Barbara was able to acquire these shawls and allow me to talk about them.

Published in: on December 4, 2010 at 12:12 pm  Leave a Comment  

2011 Workshops and Conferences….

I’ve been invited to speak at several workshops and conferences over the past months. While I would absolutely Love to, I can’t commit to any until we are relocated and have everything settled down. Since I can’t go, the very least I could do is share the 2011 workshops and conferences I am aware of.

January

 Corset making workshop at Genesee Country Village and Museum (Western NY) – January 8th and 9th. The cost is $50. For more information contact Bevin Lynn (link to come)

Mid-Western Civil War Civilian Conference – Friday, January 28, 2011 at 8:00am – Sunday, January 30, 2011 at 12:00pm. For registration and information contact Marta Vincent  or visit www.midwestcwcivilian.com.

Caps – Plain to Fancy with Marta Vincent-  January 8/9 – Hampshire, IL

February

Bonnets – With Marta Vincent  – February 25/26 – Hampshire, IL –

March

 Ladies and Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference (Harrisburg, PA) –  March 3-6

Frontier Women’s Living History Association Conference – (In Texas) Please see thier blog for more information http://frontierwomen.blogspot.com/

Ball Gown Bodice & Berthes – With Marta Vincent – March 26/27

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December


Published in: on November 30, 2010 at 9:02 pm  Leave a Comment  

Folding Chairs

June 2015 – I am receiving an increased number of requests for information on particular chairs and appraisals. While I love to see original chairs, I am not in a position to give advice on the value or restoration of chairs. I simply find patent furniture to be a fascinating research subject. 

Here is some information that will hopefully help if you are considering a folding chair….

This 1855 Patent is one of the earlier 19th century folding chair patents. It has a simple side X construction with a slight curve in the back to leg piece. The seat is solid with a cushion set in.

This chair from the New York State Museum, is circa 1866. This walnut chair was made in NYC by B.J. Harrison And Company. The museum’s descriptions is as follows “32 1/2 x 16 x 17 in.  Curved crest rail above two side rails ending in molded rear seat rail. Beneath this are two dowels fitted to another molded rail. Oriental-type rug seat (not original).” The seat folds up with a side X pivot while the back folds down. A similar chair construction can be seen in this  1863 Patent.

 This circa 1860-70 chair is Marta Vincent’s. It has been repaired and recovered from the naked state in which it was found with the finish was completely worn off and the carpet seat was in tatters. The back splint has been replaced. The seat is now a piece of ingrain wool carpet supported by canvas.

Martha’s above chair is a similar folding shape as the chair in this post war photograph

The shape of this chair’s curved pieces making the side X construction seen in many full-size chairs attributed to those who worked with Vaill. This construction can be seen in this  1870 Patent 1.

Added March 15th, 2010: A reader contacted me about a chair coming from a private collection. She has been kind enough to share this lovely child’s folding chair which looks much like the one in the photograph above. This chair has a great glowing patina. Notice the darker areas where the chair would have been picked up and carried when folded. The carpet seat is in good condition with deep reds and greens in a large, well centered design. The curves of the legs tend to suggest it was made by someone who worked with Vaill. The back piece is curved nicely while appearing quite solid.

 

img_20160819_151413.jpg

Circa 1870-90. These chairs were manufactured by Edward W. Vaill. It is a side X construction with a second pivot point on the back and a hinge on the lower back leg. The top chair has an incorrect material. The bottom chair shows a floral or scenic design done in tapestry, possibly original or a replacement. In both cases, the wood is likely walnut Notice the curves in the leg and cross support piece. Also notice the turned finials on the top. Both chairs have paper labels found on the front cross runner underneath the fabric. The construction of this chair can be seen in this 1875 Patent by Wakefield, assignor Vaill. This is a similar patent from  1876.

 This chair is Marta Vincent’s. I think it could have been made between 1863 and the 1880s. It has the original red carpet, which she has supported with canvas underneath. It appears to have a back similar to the back in the Vaill chair above. The back to front leg cross piece has a slight curve while the other leg begins to show an S curve. It appears to be a walnut. Notice the location of the splits in the seat. These weaknesses are very much at risk of further damage if not supported.

This is my chair, one Dad had for me that was found after he passed. I still have have yet to spend time really looking at this chair. It is an early Eastlake style from the last quarter of the century.  The seat material is likely original.

 This rocker folding chair is Marta Vincent’s. When Marta found it, it was in pieced needing to be put back together. The seat and back are a vintage ingrain wool carpet with the sear supported by canvas and the outside back is covered  in brown cotton sateen similar to the method of the original covering on the red one.

 This chair is as it was found. Though nicely intact, the seat and back may not be original. The turning and finials on this chair are quite different then the other chairs seen here. The closest patent I’ve found for dating is this 1881 Patent with a far more complex construction.

 

This Chair is held by the Brooklyn Museum. It is attributed to P. J. Hardy as the maker while Hunzinger was likely the designer based on the style and the metal tag Hunzinger label. The Museum’s description is “Folding chair. Ebonized wood with gilt incised decoration, metal hardware, and original upholstery. Turned gilt incised members that terminate in small ball pads intersect at mid-point on sides, secured by small metal rods on which they pivot and allow folding action. Identical turned and gilt incised stretchers connect lower front and back legs. Dark red plush upholstery with central vertical machined floral tapestry panel. Multi-colored fringe to front and sides of seat secured with domed metal tacks. Slung narrow woven textile strips with red key pattern on white ground form arms attached to front and rear stiles with metal attachments; the attachment on back stile has pressed head of putti. Movable black metal members hinged to underside of seat at sides and attached to upper front legs below seat to secure chair when open for seating. CONDITION – Original upholstery faded and distressed, but intact.” For more on Hunzinger’s furniture, please visit this Hunzinger blog.

 Late 19th century folding chair with an Eastlake feel.

Post-CW Catalog of Folding Chairs.

A pre-Civil War English patent chair:

This is one chair I would have dated to later in the 19th century if I came across it in person. This illustration and description comes from 1824 though, in the Transactions of the Society, Instituted at London, for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce volume 43.1824 folding chair My previous research indicated folding chairs did not appear notably in the US prior to 1850. This illustration, 26 years earlier, is from London.

Folding Chair

The Silver Vulcan Medal was this session presented to Mr. J.P. Hubbard, Leadenhall-street, for a Folding Chair. A specimen which has been placed in the Society’s repository.

In camp, on board ship, and in other situations in which stowage room is very limited, demads are continually making on the ingenuity of the cabinet-maker, to compress into as small a space as possible all articles of domestic furniture when not actually in use. The common camp-stool, either with or without a back, thus forms the substitute for a chair; but the webbing does not make a very firm or convenient seat, and this circumstance induced Mr. Hubbard (who is not a cabinet-maker) to add to it a folding wooden seat, with a spring catch. The result is, a light chair of a very firm and simple construction, which may be afforded at a small cost, and when not in use may be hung upon a peg, or may be stowed away in any other manner, occupying not more than one third the space required for a chair of common construction.

Plate VII, fig 13, shows the chair when open or ready for use. It consists, like the camp-stool with a back, of two frames crossing each other, and united by the screw-pins u u; v is the wooden seat, having two hinges v v in front, and a hole x at the back to receive the spring catch y in the back rail, as shown fig. 14; beneath the seat are two pieces of webbing w w to limit the expansion of the two frames, and thereby to cause the spring catch to fall into its hole without any trouble: fig. 15 is a side view of the chair when folded.

Frequently Asked About Chairs:

not-correct

Folding Rockers like this one seem to be every where… good reason…. They were reproduced for stores like World Market and Pier One in the 80s. They are Not a reproduction of a mid-century chair. They are a reproduction of an early 20th century chair.

They are Not Collingnon Brothers chairs. Please cautiously read the Collingnon chair site. I find some pieces are unclear. I recommend looking at this set of search results for their patents, including the 1868 patent which if for a folding chair, not a rocker.

 

 

 

 21st century chair manufactured for camping, modern camping. Not a style produced during the Civil War.

Published in: on November 12, 2010 at 6:41 pm  Comments (49)  

Masquerade Dress

Now that the Masquerade has past, I can share photos of the dress I was working on. I don’t have any “in-process” photos though. I’m horrible about that. Here is the dress:

And here is my husband and I:

The fabric is one I’ve had for at least a few years. We’ve been calling it my sunset plaid. It is a taffeta weave with thicker threads and moderately tight weave. It is a bit more red then it seems to appear in the photos.

The bodice is just a basic basque bodice with the  basque cut as part of the bodice rather than as an added piece. I generally like this approach. The challenge is getting the lower part of the darts right. I’ve decided to shorten the darts to get a better front flair. I think the front is too flat. I am also going to change the outside dart because that has some pulling. The neckline is actually a jewel neckline just turned down into the V neckline. I couldn’t make up my mind. So, I did it that way. The back is a two piece back. I tried to line up the plaid horizontally. I think I did fairly well given how the pieces curve. The pepulum is shaped with two box pleats underneath the pleating. The trim was actually an after-thought when I had some left.

 

The sleeves started as a funnel sleeve even though you can’t really tell with the tiers. The base is just muslin. Under the top tier there is some extra tucked out so I can change the sleeve to have the bottom two tiers detachable. For the silk, I took the base pattern & cut it into 3 pieces adding an extra inch to the top of the bottom two for overlap. Each silk piece is cut on the bias. An important thing to know if you want to do this – While three pieces will fit on the straight grain, all three pieces will Not fit in one row on the bias of 60″ fabric. It is most economical to cut each piece open separately where they fit. The undersleeves are a temporary make-do from a semi-sheer fabric I had. They are just tacked inside.

The trim is bias strips pleated with the top edge turned down. There is approx. 10 yards of finished trim for the bodice – two rows around the basque and one row on the sleeves. The 30ish yards of bias came from about 1 yard of fabric.

One last note – Yes, there is a balance thing going on with the skirt. I made the skirt first. Then I didn’t try it on until the night of the event. Oooos. It was a good 4+ inches to big. I did a couple quick tucks in the back to get it to stay up. But, there was still some sagging in the front. So, the horizontal lines dip in the front. I’ll be fixing that.

Published in: on October 18, 2010 at 8:17 pm  Comments (1)  

Fall

I’ve been horrible on keeping up with posts, and, well, so many other things. I did send off an article to Connie for the Gazette. It is a military version of the “Connecting with your Audience” article. So, if you get that magazine, please take a look. I do have this list of articles I want to find time to put together for the Companion and for the blog. One in particular I thought might be of interest for the magazine is about the bag obsession I’ve had of late. Okay, not really about the obsession, about the bags themselves.

It is fall…. ahhhhhh. Normally this time of year I am thinking about quilted and wool petticoats, wristlets and wool stockings, wadded hoods and cozy coats. Not so much this year. Instead I am finishing up the dress for the masquerade ball here in town. It is a 50s basque combination done in the sunset silk I’ve had laying around. After the party you will be able to see photos. I may squeeze in another workshop locally this winter. I now have 25 sewing cases and needlebooks done plus the scissors cases and pincushions. Writing to follow. Other than that most of my sewing is for modern clothes including a coat which will eventually make it up on my updates blog.

Published in: on October 6, 2010 at 2:57 pm  Leave a Comment  

Projects list….

Some how I’ve developed a project list once again…..

  • Ongoing sewing cases
  • Yoked bodice dress – I don’t have one, therefore I have to have one
  • 19th Century coat – Because I miss mine
  • 21st Century coat – May just be the same one as above (I want a 19th c. one in a different color but for cost effectiveness this may be an all purpost black coat.
  • Dan’s British Rifleman’s Uniform
  • Dan’s muslin shirt
  • Dan’s white shirt
  • Dan’s civilian pants (may purchase those.)
  • Dan’s tbd civilian coat
  • Dan’s tbd civilian vest
  • Medium size leather bag
  • Tiny white silk Regency era bag
  • Regency corset, bodiced petticoat and dress
  • Sunbonnet tbd (since all headwear is in NY)
  • Some ribbony stuff possibly to sell (hairnets and neckbows.)
  • Because I saw the coolest padded bustle made out of a paisley fabric yesterday, I may have to breakdown and make an 1870s or 80s outfit.
  • Then there is at least one surprise project I can’t list online
Published in: on August 22, 2010 at 12:16 pm  Leave a Comment  

A post on another blog about the straw cottage industry

http://nemasket.blogspot.com/2010/05/industrious-middleborough-1860.html

Published in: on August 18, 2010 at 8:23 am  Leave a Comment  

Bag Pattern

Here is the pattern/illustration for the bag below inspired two at the MET.

Silk Leather (p1MET bag (p2)

Published in: on August 16, 2010 at 3:06 pm  Comments (2)