If I Had My Own Blue Box:

I am concerned about something I am seeing lately: Inaccurately constructed bonnets posted & promoted on social media.

I theorize this increase in inaccurately made items is due to an upsurge of new people reenacting following the lull the past few years. While new reenactors can be wonderful, they can also be vulnerable and taken advantage of as they try to develop their waredrobes in an accurate yet cost-effective manner.

I fear these inaccurate millinery pieces appeal because they are comparatively less expensive and are often pretty with an ubundance of trim, which are in themselves inaccurate. While these pieces may cost less initially, in the long run, they are more costly as they will need to be replaced.

How do you know a bonnet is inaccurately made?

There are two key parts of a bonnet that are quick to spot and eliminate a piece:

The Tip and the Cheektabs

First, the tip:

The tip is the back part of the crown that sits on the back of your head. For the 1840s through the first half of the 1860s, the tip is round, either a circle or an oval. The circular or oval tip is consistent in extant bonnets and millinery blocks:

If a bonnet has a horseshoe shape tip or a semi-circle tip, eliminate it.

Next, the Cheektabs:

The cheektabs are the part of the bonnet on each side that extend down from the brim. As the 1840s progressed, these became elongated. They continued to thin or narrow in the early 1850s. By the mid 1850s, cheektabs were several inches long and narrow. This continued through the first half of the 1860s. Cheektabs took two primary shapes: either narrow and curvey with a twist or triangular.

If a bonnet does not have cheektabs or has short, nubby tabs, eliminate it.

These two factors will hopefully help you quickly eliminate inaccurately made bonnets whether you see them online or in person.

I have one additional aspect to look out for as you shop. If you are looking at straw bonnets, please be aware of how some mass-produced bonnets are made.

More information on the Anatomy of a Bonnet:

I am reposting favorite helpful posts each Monday throughout March, April, and May.

My recommendations for a basic hair kit:
● Straight hair pins
● Faux tortoise hair pins
● Plain black elastics
● Hair Pomade
● A Plain net or two
● Faux horn hair comb or two

I am lucky enough to be able to purchase these items in person, includong the straight hairpins during a day trip through the Finger Lakes. Not everyone has similar local resources. With this in mind, I am including two shopping lists: one that can be done online from home and one that can be done mostly in person. The online list supports small businesses, with the exception of one item through Amazon.

Shopping from home for approx $38.00:
Order from Timely Tresses:
~~1 set of faux tortoise hair pins $4.00 or 4 chignon faux tortoise hair pins $5.00
~~1 plain hair net $4.00
~~1 back comb $4.00 or 2 side combs $4.00
Amazon:
~~2 sets of 12 straight hair pins in 2” or 3″ and 2.5” $12.00
Talbott and Co on Etsy:
~~1 tin of pomade $14.00

Shopping mostly in person for approx $25:
Local pharmacy:
~~Plain hairnet $2 for a set of 3
~~Faux tortoise hair pins $3
~~Hair elastics $2
Amish dry goods shop:
~~Straight hair pins 2 sets for $4
Talbott and Co on Etsy:
~~1 tin of pomade $14.00

Sources:

• Timely Tresses http://www.timelytresses.com/store/c20/Hair_Dressings.html
• Talbott and Co. https://etsy.me/3pH7zNH
• Beth Miller Hall https://etsy.me/3pJ1UXb
• LBCC https://etsy.me/3cGXdYB
• Amazon items: 2.5″ Straight hair pins

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This video was on my holiday recess to-do list. I knew I wasn’t going to be able to sleep or enjoy my last day off without doing the video tonight.

My hope is this video helps give a better understanding of cheektabs – what they look like on original bonnets, how they should look on reproduction bonnets, and how they should frame the face.

I also just had a great question about how a straw bonnet stays on the head. I talk a little bit about how the cheektabs, ribbon, and inner brim decorations work together in tonight’s video. I plan to do a video that looks further at this. In the meantime, here is information on how a bonnet stay works and helps a bonnet stay on:

It isn’t very often I have three different examples of something from the same fabric at the same time.

This week is a casual Hat Q&A talking about the questions I am asked most often. The focus is on American Civil War hats. I will talk about bonnets in a future video.
How do I wear my hat?
Which is the front?
How do I measure my head?
Where do I put the flowers and ribbon?
How do I keep my hat on my head?

If you have more questions about straw hats or bonnets in the nineteenth century, put them in the comments below. I will do more millinery Q&As in the future.

More details on measuring and fit.

This is where to find me:
Consider Patreon for special content: http://www.patreon.com/AMillinersWhimsy
A Milliner’s Whimsy – If I Had My Own Blue Box (History Blog):www.amillinerswhimsy.com
Don’t Paint the Cat (Crafty Blog): https://dontpaintthecat.wordpress.com
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It has been a busy morning. Well, I guess it isn’t morning any longer. I have an unboxing video for you…. and a new workbags!

First, the unboxing…

I am very pleased with the ribbons from Bias Bespoke. I am glad I decided to order a sampling of some. Note: I am using the word sampling to mean I ordered a short length of several styles. They do not have “sample” listings. I already have a new wish list of their ribbons.

The shawls…. You likely noticed I was talking in circles in the video. This is because I was so surprised by what I opened and had to mentally derail to find a new course. As I said in the video, I just can’t see turning these into pendants.

The shawl with the borders will join my collection. It is an example of borders being used and a turn-over shawl with the opposite corners. It definitely has a lot of damage. But, as an example of borders being used and this technique, I feel I need to keep it.

The two cut pieces need further thought.

Workbags….

I have several workbags now available in my shop. I had a row of them waiting for drawstrings after I ran out of my preferred cotton sateen. I was being picky looking for the just-right option. What I really envisioned was a silk and cotton blend heavier ribbon that would glide smoothly. I finally settled on a utilitarian cord that came in the first package from the video.

In the batch is a smaller size in a very pretty blue. This one will make a nice reticle to carry for Regency impressions. There is a stripe silk that is larger in that the silk portion is taller and fuller. There is a softer twill with a brown jacquard design.

Clara is now demanding my attention…..

These photos are from 2012 of one of two dresses we found at a theatrical sale. I am bringing them forward because a dress of a possibly similar fabric was recently posted elsewhere. These are not the best photos as they were taken on an air mattress in low light. On my far too long to-do list is to get out the few dresses I own, photograph them, and box them better.

I started a new series on Patreon this summer – Pocket of the Month.

Each month, I am sharing a pocket design with Patreon Patrons. Initially, I planned to do this through the end of the year allowing me to decide whether to continue come January. Since then, I have already started designing pockets for spring.

These designs are as I would create them for myself, maybe a little neater. This means some are hand drawn and some are digitally created. Most will use original source material such as published fancy work manuals, lady’s periodicals, original drawings, and original fancy work. Each will be saved as a printable PDF.

Current Pockets include:

• June – Knotwork Design – braidwork or embroidery
• July – Wheat Design – embroidery
• August – Floral Design – embroidery
• September – Grape Design – embroidery
• October – Fall Leaves – tbd
• November – tbd possibly applique or quilted
• December – tbd possibly applique or quilted
• January – Already designed
• February – tbd
• March – tbd
• April – tbd
• May – Already designed
• June – tbd

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Join Here

Actually, the question is usually “Only single women could be milliners. Right?” or “Could milliners be married?”

Many of us were taught married women didn’t work outside of the home or couldn’t work outside of the home for much of the nineteenth century. This is a misconception.

Looking at advertisements, Miss. and Mrs. are used with women’s names. Of course, this could be for public relations purposes.

Looking at census records, milliners have statuses of married and widowed. In 1855 Livingston, New York 47 women’s occupations were recorded as milliner. Of the 47, 7 were married, 5 were widowed, 6 were head of household. 12 were living at home with a parent (listed as daughter to the head of household.) 13 women were living in homes other than their biological family, listed as milliner, assistant, boarder, servant, laborer, and maid.

In New York, prior to March of 1860 a married woman’s wages were legally her husband’s money. In March of that year, a bill went through the legislature and was signed into law giving married women the right to the wages they earned.

A married woman may bargain, sell, assign, and transfer her separate personal property, and carry on any trade or business, and perform any labor or services on her sole and separate
account, and the earnings of any married woman from her trade, business, labor, or services shall be her sole and separate property, and may be used of invested by her in her own name.

The 1860 Act also required a married women to get her husband’s written consent to sell real property but gave ways to do so when a husband was unable to do so. (In New York, married women also retained ownership of businesses owned prior to marriage after the Married Woman’s Property Act or 1848.)

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