Readings for Rural Life – How to Buy

From Moore’s Rural New-Yorker in Rochester, NY

March 12th, 1864

How to Buy

There is a right time to purchase. That time is when goods are low. Goods are low, as a general rule, when there is the least demand for them. Winter goods are low in the spring and summer. Summer goods are low in the fall and winter. The merchant will sell his winter stock in the spring at first cost. His summer stock in the fall at cost. He commonly sells his goods at least twenty-five per cent above the first cost. If, then, you buy his winter goods in the spring, and his summer goods in the fall, you save the per centage, and get your goods at wholesale, or just as low as the merchant bought them by the quantity. If your family requires one hundred dollars yearly in these goods, the savings will be twenty-five dollars, by buying at the proper time. When winter renders navigation and transportation difficult, groceries and heavy goods are generally higher. Sugar is generally high in fruit and “preserving time.” Watch the markets. When the goods you need are below an average price lay in a supply for some time ahead. Buy your goods by the quantity. Let the market be what it will, you can generally buy a quantity at less figures, proportionately, than small amounts. Sugar will cost you a cent on a pound less; tea, ten cents or a shilling; heavy cloths one t two shillings per yard, and so on to the end of the catalogue. Another consideration is not to be forgotten. A good article is much cheaper in the long run, than a poor one at a much less price. Better pay more for a thoroughly made serviceable article, than buy an inferior one, poorly made, at any price. Ready cash is always better than any man’s credit. A dealer, who understands his business, can and will sell for cheaper for ready money than he will for the best man’s credit. A handsome yearly savings may be made, in any family, depending in amount on the number in the family and the quantity of goods used, by buying at the right   time – buying by the large quantity – buying “good goods,” and paying ready cash. If you have not got the cash, live a little closer, cut off all unnecessary expenses, until you get a little ready money ahead, and are thus ready to take advantage of the markets. The saving that can thus be made in providing for the household, if carefully husbanded, will provide for a “rainy day,” or a competence to make old age comfortable. L.L. Fairchild. Rolling Prarie, Wis., January, 1864.

 

 

Published in: on March 12, 2014 at 6:01 am  Comments (1)  
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FanU Mini-Print Fabric Swap!

Today is the day to sign-up for the FanU Mini-Print Swap! New ideas Mini

For the Mini-Print Swap, Swappers will exchange early to mid nineteenth century appropriate cotton fabrics in small/tiny scale prints. This can include florals, geometrics, strips, plaids, etc. We will mail our fabrics on March 31st.

Please read all the details below. 

To Sign-up, simply comment below with your email and mailing address. (I’ll erase those before approving your comment, so the whole world doesn’t have that info.)

What is a Swap?

This is a chance for to exchange fabric with a small group of people. Each group will have 8 people exchanging pieces of fabric. All you need is a half yard of fabric and envelopes along with your copy of Fanciful Utility.

To Participate:

1: Sign Up Day!
On sign-up day, groups will be assigned on a first-in basis; the first eight will be the first swap group, second eight in the second group, etc. **Please be certain you will be able to fully participate by mailing your fabrics on the Mail-Out Date.**

Romantic Swap Sign-Up Day: January 13th
Paisley Swap Sign-Up Day: February10th
Mini-Print Sign-Up Day: March 10th

Bonus Patriotic Swap Sign-Up Day: April 14th

2: Mail-Out Day:
Place a 9×9″ piece of fabric suited to the mid-19th century in envelopes for each of the 7 other people in your swap group, stamp them (be sure to double check at the post office, but the small 9×9″ pieces should mail in a regular envelope with a normal stamp), and send them off no later than the Mail-Out Day.

Romantic Swap Sign-Up Day: January 31st
Paisley Swap Sign-Up Day: February28th
Mini-Print Sign-Up Day: March 31st

Bonus Patriotic Swap Sign-Up Day: April 30th

3: Get Fanciful!
Use your Fanciful Utility templates and techniques to make a project from the book, or copy your own from 19th century sources. We’ll all look forward to seeing your projects! You don’t have to sew right away, but don’t keep us waiting forever to see all the fun things!

(If you need a copy of Fanciful Utility, you can purchase them from the publisher at www.thesewingacademy.com

Fabric Guidelines:

  1. For the cotton and silk categories, your fabric should be early to mid-nineteenth century appropriate. (If there is a want for an earlier or later group, we can do that.) Prints and motifs should reflect those available in the 1840s, 50s and 60s. Cotton should be 100% cotton. Silk should be 100% silk.
  2. To keep the swap and sewing possibilities interesting, please avoid solids as best we can.
  3. Fabrics that do not work well for sewing cases should not be swapped. These include sheers, gauzes, heavy, thick, easy-to-fray, slippery and stretch fabrics.
  4. For the “crazy swap” category, think crazy quilt in a sewing case. This could include satins, velvets, textured fabrics. Quality synthetic fabrics are invited.  

Swapper Guidelines:

  1. Please be certian you can fully participate in the swap before you sign-up.
  2. If something arises after you sign-up that will effect the date you are mailing your fabrics, please email your group so everyone is aware.
  3. If you fail to fully participate in a swap, you will not be able to sign-up for future swaps. (We do understand medical and family emergencies. I need to be able to ensure swappers will receive fabrics when they send fabrics out.)

Q&A

Yes, you can participate in 1, 2 or 3 of the swaps.

Yes, if we end up with multiple groups, you can participate in more than one group to swap more fabric. If you participate in 2 groups, you should swap 2 fabrics.

Yes, you can swap large and small scale prints.

Yes, you can swap now and sew later.

Yes, we would love to see what you’ve made with the swapped fabric.

Yes, you can use your own fabric in your swapped project.

Published in: on March 10, 2014 at 6:00 am  Comments (8)  
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A Year in Millinery Fashion – 1864

2(Peterson’s, March 1864)

Published in: on March 10, 2014 at 1:03 am  Leave a Comment  
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FanU Paisley Swap

We all know I am quite fond of paisley designs. So, I’ve been looking forward to doing a Paisley swap since last fall.
I was not disappointed.
The swapped fabrics are so much fun. Take a look:
image

Now, this post is a bit delayed because it seems I was the very last one to get all my fabrics. This was by far not the fault of any swappers. In fact, the two fabrics that arrived today were mailed over a week ago. Let’s just say the local postal service stuck again. This time mom talked with the delivery man since her’s were also delayed.
A bit of extra fun – In the midst of this swap, I received my copy of Wearable Prints, by Susan Greene. When I opened this one particular fabric, I was certain I had just seen the colors. Sure enough.
image

The next FanU swap is the “Mini Swap” of miniature prints. It actually starts Monday. This swap will be extra fun for swappers who want to make doll size sewing cases. (I hope you saw the doll size templates in Fanciful Utility.)

Published in: on March 8, 2014 at 9:01 pm  Comments (1)  

Exploring Soft Crown Bonnets – pt 4

Soft Crown Bonnets – 1864-65

(Peterson’s, February, 1864)

A Black Velvet Bonnet, with plain front and cap crown, from Mrs. Cripps, 912 Canal street, New York. On the left side is a heavy rosette of black velvet, under which is fastened a magnificent cherry willow feather, which sweeps over the front and down the right side to the bottom of the cape. On the inside are mixed black and white ruches on both sides; on the top is a full white ruche, a rich bow of cherry velvet, with an end on the lower side; on the right is a bunch of black feather flowers. Broad black strings. (Peterson’s, February, 1864)

1

White corded silk front, with puffed silk crown edged with black velvet ribbon, which is fastened inside the front of the bonnet, is carried to the centre of the crown, where it finishes in a point from which to hang clusters of grapes with foliage. Inside trimming is of tulle, scarlet velvet, and purple grapes.

3

The front of the bonnet is of quilted gray silk. The crown is soft, and of plain silk crossed with black velvet. Deep blue flowers are arranged on the lower part of the crown, and instead of the curtain are loops of ribbon and lace. The inside trimming is of tulle, black lace, and blue flowers

1

Bonnet for light mourning. The front is of black silk, with a fall of chenille fringe drooping over the front. The crown and cape are of white silk, trimmed with a chenille fanchon. The inside trimming is white roses, black grass, and white tulle. (Godey’s, October, 1864)

 

2

Bonnet of white silk, with puffed front and cap crown. The cape is very short, and raised on the right side it display a rose and bud. A bunch of roses with leaves is placed over the crown. Roses and black velvet with blonde are arranged as an inside trimming. (Godey’s, October, 1864)

 

SC Godeys Nov 1864

 

 

Published in: on March 7, 2014 at 6:00 pm  Leave a Comment  

Exploring Soft Crown Bonnets – pt3

Soft Crown Bonnets – 1863

La Follet, September, 1863

La Follet, September, 1863

From La Follet, November 1863: “A bonnet, having the front and curtain of black velvet, with soft crown of plaid velvet, blue and green; the curtain lined with white satin. At the front-edge, a catalane of peacocks’ feathers, surrounded with black lace, which is carried en herbes on each side, and tied under the chine over the plaid velvet strings. Torade of green velvet, with peacock’s feathers inside.”

La Follet, November 1863

La Follet, November 1863

La Follet, December 1863

La Follet, December 1863

From The Lady’s What-not,  1863 (a London publication) “A bonnet with a soft crown of violet-colour velvet, and a front of white pique satin, edged with a quilling of violet-colored satin ribbon with a few small feathers at the side mingled white and violet, is extremely pretty; as also are bonnets made of the satin pique of various colours, such as azurine-blue, Russian leather-coloured, and violet. Plush bonnets of the same colours are also making their appearance, and are expected to be held in high esteem when the next winter arrives. Another pretty bonnet is made with a soft corwn in black silk, laid in broad box plaits, a curtain of the same, a front of fine white straw, and a bunch of cornflowers in brilliant blue.”

Published in: on March 6, 2014 at 6:00 pm  Leave a Comment  

Resources for Life

With regard to the mode of destroying the traffic in liquor in the several villages and cities, it has been substantially the same everywhere.

1. Preparatory prayer in the closet and church, in some instances lasting for two of three weeks, before any effort was made openly by the women to persuade men to quit the business.

2. Circulating the personal pledge of total abstinence; also, for druggists, grocers, real estate owners, lawyers, and physicians.

3. Going out in small companies of two or three, and quietly conversing with dealers, with or without prayer.

4. Increasing the party to five or ten, and praying either vocally or silently in each place visited.

5. Visiting in large bodies daily the several saloons in the town and singing and praying in them, or, if refused access, in front on the pavement or in the street.

In many place in Ohio guards have been assigned to watch the saloons when not invested by the praying-band. These ladies usually took down names of visitors, and sometimes exhorted and plead with them to sign the pledge. This last course was a very unpopular one the saloon keepers.

…

Pledges

The following pledges, with slight verbal variations, have been used in the campaign:

Citizens’ Pledge

We, the undersigned, severally pledge ourselves, upon our integrity and honor, to abstain from the use as a beverage of all spirituous liquors, wine, beer, and ale; and that we will not give away or offer in any way the same to others to be so used, or use the same in cooking of for table purposes.

Property-Holders’ Pledge

We, the undersigned property-holders, pledge ourselves not to let or lease our premises (or  premises for which we are agents) in this city or permit them to be used or occupied, for the sale or dispensing in any way of spirituous liquors, wine, beer, or ale.

Dealers’ Pledge

We hereby severally pledge ourselves not to sell, furnish, or give away or allow to be sold or given away by any agent or employee of ours, either by retail or wholesale, any spirituous liquors, wine, beer, or ale.

Physicians’ Pledge

We, the undersigned, upon our honor as professional me, promise here-by not to prescribe the use of spirituous liquors, wine, beer, or ale, only in case of absolute necessity.

Druggist’s Pledge

We, the undersigned druggists, hereby pledge ourselves, upon our honor as business men, that from this date we will under no circumstances sell or give away, or allow to be sold or given away by any of our agents or employees, any alcoholic or intoxicating liquors, wine, beer, or ale, except upon the prescription of a reputable practicing physician, said prescription to be filled but once.

Grocers’ Pledge

We, the undersigned grocers, do hereby promise and agree that we will not hereafter sell, or allow to be sold in our stores, intoxicating liquor to any person; and that we will heartily, and in good faith, perform this obligation.

 

The Woman’s Temperance Movement, by Rev. W.C. Steel (New York, 1874)

Published in: on March 6, 2014 at 1:35 am  Leave a Comment  
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Exploring Soft Crown Bonnets – pt2

Soft Crown Bonnets – 1861-62

Godey's, July 1861

Godey’s, July 1861

Godey's, October 1861

Godey’s, October 1861

Godey's, November 1861

Godey’s, November 1861

Godey's, December 1861

Godey’s, December 1861

SC Sept 1862 Godey

Godey’s, September 1862

SC October 1862 Godeys

Godey’s, October 1862

 

Published in: on March 5, 2014 at 6:00 pm  Leave a Comment  

Readings for Rural Life – To Color Black

From Moore’s Rural New-Yorker in Rochester, NY

March 5th, 1864

To Color Black

Eds. Rural: – Seeing an inquiry for a recipe for coloring black, I send you mine. Take four ounces extract of logwood, put in an iron kettle over which pour ten quarts of soft water; let it boil. Stir often, take off the scum, wash the goods in soap suds, put them in the dye, let them boil about half an hour, take out, air well. Add one teaspoonful copperas, one-third do. vitriol, put in the goods, scald about 15 minutes, take out, dry, then dip in sweet milk to set the color, wash in good soap suds, iron while damp and you have as handsome black as you could desire. – From a Subscriber’s Wife.

Another – One pound of logwood; three pounds of yarn; one-fourth a pound of copperas put in three gallons of water; when it boils skim off all the scum, put in the yarn, boil one hour, let it cool sufficient to ring, cover the yarn to prevent it from drying, then boil the logwood in the same water; dip and air three times; dry before washing. – Emily Skeer.

Eds. Rural: – Having noticed in the Feb. 6th No. of the Rural an inquiry for coloring black that will not fade, mother proposes to send you hers, which she has used for a number of years, and knows to be an excellent recipe: – Take one pound of logwood chips, and half an ounce of copperas. This will color two pounds of cloth or yarn, silk or woolen. Put your logwood into sufficient quantity of soft water to cover your cloth, and place it on the stove to soak; then put your copperas into a similar quantity of water; stir till dissolved; then put in your cloth and let it simmer for an hour; take out and hang out to dry. When dry, rinse through two or three waters, and put into the dye. Let it boil very slowly for an hour, then dry and rinse, and you have a black that will neither crock nor fade. It must be stirred frequently while in both copperas water and the dye, to prevent its spotting. – A Rural Reader, Milan, Ohio, 1864.

 

Published in: on March 5, 2014 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment  
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Exploring Soft Crown Bonnets – pt 1

Soft Crown Bonnets – 1858-60

From Grahams, July 1858: “Tuscan bonnets are in great favor, and are generally trimmed with wild flowers and oats, or with a large rose, foliage and buds; sometimes with a tulle trimming, embroidered with jet, and finished with a brown fringe; a brown silk curtain and brown strings. Young ladies wear white crape bonnets, ornamented with ruches and loops of white ribbon, inside; acrss the head there is a bandeau formed of a red rose surrounded with wheat ears and grass. Many bonnets are made of a soft crown of spotted tulle; the edge of pink crape, with blonde falling over the front, and a bouquet of white and pink roses on the left side. A bandeau of the same roses crosses above the forehead, inside of the bonnet.”

SC December 58 Godeys

From Arthur’s Home Magazine, February 1860: “The latest style of bonnet is the soft crown. It is not generally adopted here, but is coming in. It is our province to keep the readers of the Home Magazine apprised of what is the reigning mode, and as nearly as we can – to indicate to them the tendency of the fickle goddess, Fashion.”
From Arthur’s Home Magazine , March 1860: “The plain style of bonnet with soft crown and distinguished in form, is aldo in vogue. It is large and plain in the border all round; but it has a cache of elegance, owing to the flat appearance of the plaited crown.”
Arthur’s Home Magazine , May1860: “The soft crown was of plaits of straw and green silk, alternating. Each ear-ring was of massive gold, in the form of a ring two inches in diameter, like an infinitesimal cart-tire with the outer edge chased.”

From Draper and Clothier, May 1860: “And in the same house, we saw a rice-straw bonnet, with soft crown of plaited tulle. A ruche of mauve ribbon across the front. A bow with rather long ends behind. In the cap, small bunches of lilac all round the face. Wide mauve ribbon strings.”

From Draper and Clothier, June 1860: “A very pretty bonnet has a soft crown of white crape, covered with black spotted tulle, and the front consisting of plain white straw. The trimming, on the outside, is a tuft of red rosebuds, in the inside of the trimming consists of a demi-bandeaux formed of loops of black ribbon, finished at the each end by tufts of rosebuds like those on the outside of each bonnet.”

Published in: on March 4, 2014 at 6:00 pm  Comments (1)  
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