If I Had My Own Blue Box:

Got Perch?

Okay, cheesey title. I claim multi-day migraine defense.
A CDV recently appeared that brought up how women wore their bonnets perched on the backs of their heads from 58ish to 63/4ish. (I want said cdv & will be bidding. Fingers crossed.) Here is a close-up:

See how the bonnet sit further back on her head? Her interior flowers land almost at her mid-line.
The question I am hearing is “how did they do that?’
There as a few aspects that help:
– A bonnet stay. This is a ribbon, strip or even wire inside the bonnet, positioned to act like a headband holding the bonnet in place. (These need to be fitted to the wearer.)
– The frill and interior decoration. The placement and fullness of these act like a catch or a band to help hold the bonnet.
– Balance. The front to back balance of the bonnet needs to put more weight in the brim and forward crown area of the bonnet rather than the back.
The placement of the hair can also be a contributing factor.

This is my first straw bonnet, years & years ago. While it has some early issues, it shows what a stay can do. These photos were taken after a parade marching into 40 mph winds that ended in a hail storm. During this walk, the force of the winds actually snapped a bone in my cage. But, the bonnet stayed put.

Here is Lily in the same bonnet. It sits further back on her. But, stays pretty well. (It finally got to retire after this.)

This next bonnet is a different shape, drawn. Instead of a stay, it holds put thanks to the frill and flowers. The frill is gathered like ruching in this one. The back edge sorta stands fluffed, holding against my hair.

This is my bonnet from last year. (How awful is my facial expression?) I think you can see the position of this one. This stays with the work of the frill and my hair.

Here is how I often wear my hair:

Now, Lily’s bonnet from last year does need a stay as she does have some issue with I staying put. Granted, se is also showing kids how o play with games including stilts much of the time. She also has far better posture than I do. Now that I think about it more, she has less hair in the back too.

Here is a photo of both of us from last month with the same two bonnets. (different ribbon on mine) This shows the fullness of the frill pretty well.

Tomorrow, I’ll be wearing my new soft crown. It has the ruched frill but no stay. Of course, the weight will be at the top. I will likely be wearing my veil turned back over the bonnet most of the day. I will report back on how well it stays.

Betsy Connolly sent me some beautiful photos showing excellent perch. (The photos are so pretty, I’m not going to crop them.) She says some have stays, some do not. She agrees that staying put is about balance.

Here is Lisa Springstube Lindsey in a mourning bonnet with the full frill helping hold it and a Marie Stuart:

Here is Beth Chamberlain with two good examples:

If you have a good ‘perch’ photo & would like to share it, please let me know (I think if you link it in the comments, I can grab it. Otherwise, email or message me.)

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on June 6, 2014 at 10:25 pm Leave a Comment

Post-War Transitional in White

I’ve been having so much fun sharing the millinery pieces from this spring with you, I decided to share this little bonnet. This really has been a forgotten about bonnet. It made it as far as some so-so photos for Etsy, then got tucked away to the back of the display table.

In the middle of the 1860s we see a transition from the fashionable spoon and cottage bonnet shapes to the hat and smaller bonnet shapes. There were a speckling of styles that show the transition from one millinery era to the next. My bonnet pulls mostly from this first example. The crown drastically shrinks, flattening out, while the cheektabs try various positions framing the sides of the face rather than coming down to the jaw line.

As you can see, the decorations and ribbon tend to encircle the crown and fall down along the remains of the cheektab.

I used the last of my hemp plait for this bonnet over the winter. The box pleating encircling the crown is a silk ribbon slightly narrower than the silk ribbon used for the ties. Just under the brim is a frill of fine net.

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on June 5, 2014 at 6:00 am Comments (1)
Tags: Anna's Millinery

Readings for Rural Life

From Moore’s Rural New-Yorker in Rochester, NY

June 4^th, 1864

Woolen Under Clothing Best for our Variable Climate.

I was much pleased to see those articles in the Rural on wearing woolen under clothes, copied form Dr. Ball’s excellent periodical, the Journal of Health. Cotton goods had been so cheap among us for many years previous to the two last, that they had gradually displaced much woolen.

If the latter were more universally adopted by both sexes, colds, fevers, rheumatism and consumption, and all diseases superinduced by them, would be greatly lessened throughout our country. I have not a doubt that the average of life thereby would be extended fully five years, and the average of deathe lessened in early life at least one-fifth.

Our climate is an extreamly variable one, and requires to be closely watched and guarded against, a particularly by females and children. Nothing will do this more effectually than wearing woolen under clothers summer as well as winter. Moreover, by so doing, we greatly benefit our flock masters and manufacturers, and adopt a truly patriotic course.

If Cottton be King, let Wool be President. The latter si the more appropriate style of ruler for our Republican Government and variable climate. A.B. Allen. New York, May, 1864

Woman’s Wages

Why is it that women are so poorly recommended for their labor? If a man hires for a week with a farmer, at the very lowest rates, he will receive six dollars and board for that length of time. But if a frial woman hirse to work in his kitchen, she must be content with one dollar or consider herself well paid if she receives one dollar and a quarter! She is not expected to complain if the fatigueing task of milking, churning, baking, washing, ironing, scrubbig, and “cooking for hands” is almost too much for her strength less than the man? Or, has she a greater amount of strength than he, so that less effort is necessary on her part? If not, why this difference? Why is it that she must rise earlier, and work later, than he? As a general thing the man is not required to be at work before six o’clock in the morngin and is allowed to quit at six in the evening, with an interval of an hour for dinner.

Now we repeat, why is this? You may say “she does not do as hard work as a man.” It is just as hard for her. The man does not work as long as she does; he has the hours from six in the evening, ‘till time for him to retire to rest; also a time for repose in the mornign, which she is denied. Her work begins with the day, and lasts until it is high time she should be resting her tired limbs on a comfortable bed.

If the man is so minded, he can spend these hours in mental improvement, with a view to bettering his condition in life; or, he may spend them with aged and infirm parents, comforting them with his presence; and, they in turn encouraging him with kind words of hope-cheer; or, if he has a family he can spend them with it. He can be free from other people’s work, long enough for his mind and body, both, to rest; she is expected to take the care as well as the labor. He can support a parent, a delicat sister, or both if required, and still have enough to supply her with nexassary clothing. “Hardly,” did we say? it is positively not enough; besides, if she is taken sick, what is to become of her? Few, if any, of her employers would nurse her and pay a doctor’s bill for her; but, as is too ofthen the case, she might find a home among some poor, but kind friends; and when health returned she might deny herself some necessary articls of clothing, in order to pay her doctor’s bill. And thus she must toil week after week, with no hope of ever bettering her condition by her own exertions!

How often, too, does she support a feeble parent, brother, or sister, by her labor and kind self-denial, and toil on ‘till the end of the week, hoping to go to them and spend the Sabbath – the poor man’s gift from God – with them; but in this too she is too often disappointed; for, “she can’t be spared – going to have company home from church and go right into work.” And thus the poor girl is cheated our of what God has given to every one alike; for does he not say, “Thou, nor thy man servant, nor thy maid servant,” &c? Who ever heard of a white man having to work on a Sabbath as hard, and sometimes harder, than any other day? and yet white girls do it, often, very often. You may talk of slavery, but what is this? May Godd speed the day when woman shall be rewarded as she deserves for her labor, and no one dare to point thr finger of scorn at her because she dares to work for her living, and to “earn her bread by the sweat of her brow.” May the ablest pens of our land agitate this subject and show forth the world the wrong that is perpetuated on woman. Libbie Linwood. Cadiz Branch, 1864.

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Resources - Primary & Transcriptions

on June 4, 2014 at 5:59 am Leave a Comment
Tags: Readings for Rural Life

My Blue Scallops

I finally finished my scallop brim straw bonnet. I’m rather pleased with how it came out.

The straw is the French straw plait with that beautiful golden straw. This is the first scallop edge I did. There have been several since then with a more refined, smooth connection. The shaped and scalloped straw edges from the 1850s and 60s are quite decorative, often with very fine straw. This is the simplest of scallop. I look forward to creating more.

The soft crown is a white and ivory windowpane check silk organza (This is the left overs from the drawn organza I share a week ago. This gives you an idea of how long I was working on each of these.) The bavolet is lined with cotton English net.

The ribbon is a dark blue German moire.

The flowers are ivory velvet roses and smaller, light blue fabric roses. I rather like the little rosebuds because they dangle nicely.

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Favorite Topics - Millinery/Bonnets/Ribbons

on June 3, 2014 at 6:00 am Leave a Comment
Tags: Anna's Millinery

A Year in Millinery Fashion – 1864

(Wedding reception attire)
Bonnet of white crepe, trimmed with very light feathers and point lace. A fall
of the latter drops over the brim in the Marie Stuart style. The inside
trimming is of tulle and cerise flowers.

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on June 2, 2014 at 1:04 am Leave a Comment
Tags: A Year in Millinery Fashion 1864

1850s French Straw with Clouded Stripe Ribbon

This is the bonnet that made me squeel this morning as the new owner put it on. It fit her so beautifully, I really did squeel.

I enjoyed making this bonnet so much. I love the 1850s to begin with. When I came across this ribbon, it just had to be her’s. While it is grey and white, it is also a bluey-purple. It was wonderful to work with. The bias bavolet plays with the clouded stripes wonderfully.
I am so glad we picked these blue and white flowers because they work beautifully with her complextion. They frame her face just right.

This bonnet is made with the French straw plait I enjoy working with. I opted to line this straw bonnet because I know it will be work frequently. (While most original straws show they were not lined, lining can protect the straw.) The frill is silk organza. She has both silk functional ties and the fabulous ribbons.

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on June 1, 2014 at 5:08 pm Leave a Comment
Tags: Anna's Millinery

Mrs. Bright’s and Mrs. Blank’s Journals – December

I stumbled across something I found to be a fun read in the 1866 American Agriculturalist. The Ladies Column included a full year through the eyes of two women. I’ll share each month for the next two weeks (ish) side-by-side. (The excerpts are a bit challenging to read.)

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Resources - Primary & Transcriptions

on May 31, 2014 at 6:14 am Comments (2)
Tags: Mrs. Bright’s and Mrs. Blank’s Journals

Straw Hats – Looking at shaping

I’ve had some hat related questions this week. Here is a blog post regarding the shape of straw hats from a few years back. I’ve also started a Pin board of hats in photos. http://www.pinterest.com/annawordenb/millinery-hats-cdvs/

If I Had My Own Blue Box:

These images are for a discussion on the Sewing Academy. Since I am horribly disorganized at the moment, I am putting the files directly here. If I have included an image of yours you would like me to remove or give credit to, please let me know, I am very happy to do so.

This angle is nice for showing the difference in the width of the brim comparing the fronts to the sides. The sides also curve down.

2008-09-3019-09-03_0032

Links:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/josefnovak33/2813904046/

hmmm on chair http://www.flickr.com/photos/piedmont_fossil/2218142840/

Hats at the MET: 1840, mid-century, they say 1860s I say late at best, 1859 (one of the coarser hats I’ve seen), 1850-59, different, also different (bias cut ribbons), 1866-68, 1866-68, late 1860s (woven), late 1860s, 1863-65,

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on May 30, 2014 at 8:29 am Leave a Comment

Mrs. Bright’s and Mrs. Blank’s Journals – November

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on May 30, 2014 at 6:14 am Leave a Comment
Tags: Mrs. Bright’s and Mrs. Blank’s Journals

Just the Right Blues

It looks like many of you enjoyed the Green Velvet Straw Hat I shared on Tuesday. Thank you. (Be sure not to miss “Violets in Early Spring” a sheer organza bonnet)

Here is another hat I finished just prior to that one. This one is all about the right blues and right greys. To find just the right blue and grey, I requested a swatch of every blue and grey silk my fabulous ribbon supplier had. I know it is hard to see, but the tails of this hat show the blue and grey we picked.

For the ribbon on the brim, I looked to several original straw hats for inspiration and technique. This one in particular, I like. The Vs in the front and back help allow the green velvet ribbon to lay flat. One of the keys is a narrow ribbon. Since we were only able to get the blue and grey colors in slightly wider ribbons, I needed to fold the ribbon to get the right width. I rather like the softness a folded ribbon give.