Updated Civilian Article Index is Available

I finally got around to updating the Civilian Article Index entries for the Citizen’s Companion through the March/April edition.

It can be found on my Yahoo Group’s files as I am not yet able to upload an Excel file here (just about everything but Excel). The published articles’ worksheet is now 48 pages long. A version with just the published articles is available in Word. Keep in mind this is not sortable. Civilian article index just published articles

There are still gaps in the published and web-based articles. I know I’m missing some recent needlework and knitting articles in other publications which should be include. If you know of an article please let me know so I can add it.

Visuals for Dressing Your Table

 It appears my article on Dressing Your Table in the most recent Citizen’s Companion has sparked a few questions about how to dress specific tables. This is great because it means people are thinking about their tables. I am starting a follow up article that will look at dressing tables for various situations. In the meantime, I hope these images are helpful. Don’t just take them as a rule book – look, think and evaluate.

Recreated Examples:

Livingston-Backus House  at the Genesee Country Village and Museum. (c 1850s) (have to point out this person also took a picture of Grandma) Same house done for Yuletide. I really think this needs a cloth.

I think this is Jones Farm done for the Yuletide program at GCVM. It is a working class farming family’s home normally interpreted 1850s.

McKay Kitchen dressed for Yuletide. Another working class family that is a little better off. Usually interpreted 1840s.

Dining room in the Hyde House also known as the Octagon House at the Genesee Country Village and Museum. (c 1870s) Another

Kitchen of the Hyde House (I don’t think this choice would be acceptable for the 1850s)

Dining room in Hamilton House (c 1880s, GCVM) another and another

Family Dining room at Hosmer’s Inn (c1818 interpreted 1830s) Public Dining Room

Examples from Paintings:

White Clothes

Family Life on the Frontier by George Caleb Bingham (c1845) where it drapes a large table.

Another drapes a table in home with more means in The Contest for the Bouquet by Seymour Joseph Guy (c1866).

Most still lifes I have saved also show a white cloth (or now cloth). Each of these show tables set with food. A few examples: several by John F. Francis, Fruit Still Life with Champagne Bottle by Severin Roesen (c1848)

Colored Coverings

 Francis William Edmonds’ Barking Up the Wrong Tree (c. 1850-55) a red cloth covers a small table. This cloth has either a yellow or golden double stripe border. This is a modest working class or  lower middle class home.

Parlor table

Lady in an Elegant Interior by David  de Noter (c. 1852). This round table in what appears to be a parlor is draped in a red patterned cloth which has colors that remind me of paisley shawls (though I doubt this is a shawl.) The cloth is rather tossed or roughly draped.

A small table in Christmas Time by Eastman Johnson (c1864) has another red patterned tablecloth. This one is neatly draping the table.

A dark green cloth with a decorative border drapes a parlor table in Lilly Martin Spencer’s Patty Cake. Another lovely green cloth is draped over a round parlor table in Reverend Atwood and His Family (page 5). This cloth has what appears to be a woven in border type design. This is a similar cloth as well.

One table I am not sure about is in the painting The Song of the Shirt by John Thomas Peele (c1847). The woman is working on her sewing. I don’t know if the yellow fabric with holes draped across the table is a table cloth or simply a piece of cloth.

Kitchen Tables

Kitchen tables, used for work, are shown without clothes. Examples would be The Speculator by Francis William Edmonds (c 1852), The Young Wife: First Stew by Lilly Martin Spencer (c1854), Kitchen Interior by Thomas Hicks (c1865)

This is an example of a painting and a recreation at an exhibit at the Wehle Gallery at GCVM. Notice how the cloth has been removed from the table while she works. I think the cloth in the painting would have just reached over the edges of the kitchen table like those described in advice books. This would have been a utilitarian cloth not a damask.

Cloth Free

Long cloth-less table in the 1821 painting The Dinner Party by Henry Sargent. That cloth free table goes against everything I’ve read about setting a table for dining. There are a few tables from Shaker communities here in Stereovies without clothes.

Illustrations:

1859 Fifth Ave. Hotel NY

1864 Soldier’s Depot Dining

Photos:

This is Tea not a dinner  a colored table cloth.

1870 hotel dining room, 1885 hotel dining room

Orphans home labled 1870, possibly earlier looking at her dress

Other images:

This link shows the same dining room in different centuries. This is England but still interesting to see.

It is to bad these images don’t go back further in time…. White House Family Dining Room and State Dining Room

This is a virtual tour of a later dining room from much further up the socio-economic scale. (I have trouble with the lace cloth for the dining room in the mid-century. I don’t know about later in the century. Directions for making lace cloths seem to me to be meant for parlor or sitting-room use not for eating on.)  

Thoughts….

I do have to say, while putting together images for this I’ve developed the distinct opinion that not enough table cloths are used when a table is set. Cloths protected tables from more than just people’s spills. Advice books often start thier directions for setting a table with heating a room and removing the table cover.

Published in: on March 26, 2010 at 1:36 pm  Leave a Comment  

Examples of Tableclothes and Covers

 

pre 1800

Late 18th century

Table cover late 18th century

Mat, 18th 0r 19th century

1800-1839

Woven, coverlet tablecloth, PA c1800

Cover or cloth, long but not wide enough to fall over sides of a table, c1800

Quilted cotton table cover

Table cover

Table cover, linen plain weave with cotton

1840-1869

Block print floral table cover 1859

Wool, bordered, size for a parlor or sitting room table

Embroidered linen with wool for parlor

Part of a linen damask note the patching

Table cover from 1851 Grand Exhibition Not for dining on.

 1870-1899

Illustration 1889 table or piano cover

c1895 English

C-1900

German c. 1900

English c1900, English c1900, Another

Published in: on March 26, 2010 at 1:36 pm  Leave a Comment  

Book Reprint

For those waiting for  From Field to Fashion to be reprinted….. I am finally reprinting it!

I am doing my best not to increase the price which was previously $10.00. If interested, please email me or add a comment (which gets to me via email). If all goes right, they should be ready in April.

bookletscan

From Field to Fashion is a 46 page booklet with the following sections:
– Straw Bonnets and the Straw Bonnet Industry
– Straw, Harvest and Preparation
– Straw Plait
– Straw Cloth
– The Straw Bonnet Base
– Industry and Labor
– Finishing the Straw Bonnet
– Who Wore a Straw Bonnet When?
and an Appendix:
1 – Original Bonnets Online
2 – Bonnet Production in Massachusetts, 1855
3 – Millinery Establishments by State, 1860
4 – Straw Bonnet Shapes
5 – Fashion Quotes from Harper’s Monthly & Weekly
6 – Fashion Quotes from Godey’s Ladies Book
7 – Straw bonnet quotes from fiction
8 – Wheat and Rye produced, 1850 & 1860
9 – Straw Industry Statistics
10 – Straw and Bonnet Related US Patents

Ribbon info requested at the Conference

 

Someone requested the color, width and design charts. Here they are.

Feel free to ask questions or comment.

Published in: on March 8, 2010 at 6:33 pm  Leave a Comment  

Conference Dress

Now that the Conference has passed, I can put up some notes on my dress. Here is the fabric:

I was hoping for stripes or a plaid. When seeing the fabric, I just had to give the bias strips a try. This was my inspiration dress. 

Dan helped me with a new duct tape dummy. Then came the fun of draping.  

The bias strips were cut 3″ wide. (I did goof originally and cut them all the same direction.) At first the strips were laid straight. Then I tried to ease the strips in towards the center a bit. These then got tacked to the lining from the outside in. The center piece closes across to hook on the left side diagonally.

When thinking out the sleeve, I was tempted to pleat a solid piece. Then I realized I could use the bodice technique on the sleeve. The flat pieces were tacked to the lining first then the bias pieces, again from the outside in.

Here is some of the draping as I worked on that idea.

Although the sleeve idea came together after the bodice idea, the sleeves got done first. Here is one sleeve attached while I was working on the bodice bias strips. (sorry for it being blurry.)

Here the strips were getting attached to the lining with top stitching. The sleeve is pinned in place just at the top.

Here is the sleeve tacked in. This is before the shoulder seam was finished with the bias strips.

These are the last two pictures I took (sorry). The center front piecs is pinned on waiting to be stitched

I’ll try to remember to take some pictures of the finished dress and point out some of the details.

Published in: on March 8, 2010 at 6:27 pm  Comments (3)  

Another Fichu

I finished a fichu like the first one. This one is in cotton voile.

I am making a list of fabrics to order in a few weeks. Right now I plan to order more cotton voile, silk organza, some net, and maybe a striped voile. If you have any thing you would like to see done up, let me know and I’ll see if I can order some fabric.



Published in: on February 7, 2010 at 2:23 pm  Leave a Comment  

For sale soon

I am going to start making sheer outerwear such as the fichu and pelerine below soon.

Fichu based on a Godey’s 1859 pattern, in white cotton lawn

Pelerine in white cotton voile with scalloped ruching and ruffle.

Published in: on February 3, 2010 at 5:53 pm  Comments (4)  

Table Linens – Part 3

A passage in the 1845 The Ladies’ Work-Table Book’s,  1845 section on plain needlework is nearly identical to a section in Sarah Josepha Hale’s The New Household Receipt-book.

“Table Linen – This department of plain needlework comprises table cloths, dinner napkins, and large and small tray napkins.

“Table Cloths. – These may be purchased either single or cut from the piece. In the latter case, the ends should be hemmed as neatly as possible.

“Dinner Napkins. – These are the various materials; if cut from the piece, they must be hemmed at the ends the same as table cloths. Large and small tray napkins, and knife-box cloths, are made in the same manner. The hemming of all these should be extremely neat. It is a pretty and light employment for all young ladies; and in this way habits of neatness and usefulness may be formed, which will be found very beneficial in after life.

“Pantry linen. – In this department you will have to prepare pantry cloths, dresser cloths, plate basket cloths, china, glass and lamp  cloths, and aprons. Pantry knife-cloths should be of a durable material. The dresser cloths, or covers, look neat and useful. They are generally made of huckaback of moderate fineness; but some ladies prefer making them of a coarser kind of damask. The plate basket cloth is a kind of bag, which is put into the plate basket to prevent the side from becoming greased or discolored. They are made of linen, which is well fitted to the sides, and a piece the size and shape of the bottom of the basket, is neatly seamed in. The sides are made to hang over the basket, and are drawn round the rim by a tape, run into a slit for that purpose. China cloths, and also glass cloths, are to be made of fine soft linen, or diaper; and the cloths used in cleaning lamps, &c., must be of flannel, linen, or silk. All these articles are to be made on the same manner, that is, hemmed neatly at the ends; or if there be no selvages, or but indifferent ones, all round. Nothing looks more slovenly than ragged or unhemmed cloths, which are for domestic use. Little girls of the humbler classes might be employed by the more affluent, in making up those articles and a suitable remuneration given them. ….

There was an interesting passage of the August 17th entry of the 1864 Book of Days:

“‘Table-cloths’ have been in use in Englad certianly since the Saxon period, and in that and every succeeding era.  The word ‘napkin’ was fomerly applied to handkerchiefs and table-linens, as well as to cloths for head-dresses, &c. ‘Napery’ was the general term for linen, especially that for the table. ‘Towel’ requires no explaination.”

Additional Reading:

The Linen Trade, Ancient and Modern by Alexander Johnston Warden 

 

Published in: on October 31, 2009 at 12:43 pm  Leave a Comment  

Mid-19th Century Table Linens – Part 2

I’ll continue with one of my favorite household guidance authors, Eliza Leslie….

In her Miss Leslie’s Lady’s House-book, 1850, she says this about table linens:

Table-Linen. – If the circumstances of the family will allow the expenditure, it is advisable always to get the table-linen of the best quality; as that which is fine and thick will last much longer and look better than if comparatively coarse and thin. There is nothing of the sort superior to the best double French damask; it being not only fine and thick, but soft and glossy, like satin’ and it looks as well after washing as before. The appearance of all table-linen is improved by being mangled in a machine, instead of ironing. A tablecloth ought to be considerably larger than the table, so as to hang down all round.”

Napkins. – There are few genteel families who are not in the practice of using napkins at the table, to spread on the lap while eating, and for wiping the mouth and the fingers. The best size is about three-quarters square. [she doesn’t say three quarters of what] It is now more customary to hem the napkins than to ravel them with a fringe. If fringed, they must be afterwards whipped with a needle and thread, to secure them from ravelling still farther. Napkins with coloured borders look less genteel than those that are all white. The fines French double damask are the best and handsomest, and will last twice as long as any others. For a dinner party it is customary to place the napkins on the table, nicely folded in squares or diamonds, of which there are a variety of ingenious forms. But when the family dine without company, or with only two or three guests, the napkins are usually folded square, and then rolled up tightly and slipped into a ring of silver, ivory, ebony, or box-wood. These rings are generally numbered or lettered, and care should be taken to place the napkin of each person in his own ring. All table-linen should be marked in full with the whole name of the family.”

“Doilies. These are small napkins intended for wiping the fingers after eating fruit, and are placed round the table for that purpose. They are generally of coloured cotton, with a border; the colours are dark, that the stains may not be conspicuous on them. Unless they are washed very frequently, they acquire a rather unpleasant smell, and are not agreeable to use. We think it best to have white ones, as they are much nicer, and the stains can easily be removed from them. Doilies are always fringed.”

“Setting the dinner table. – Before you begin to set the table, see that every thing is ready and in good order; so that, after you once commence, you may not have to quit for the purpose of making something clean, or of remedying some inconvenience. If in winter, first see that the fire is good, and the hearth clean, and the plates set before it in the plate-warmer. In summer, if there is to be wine, attend in proper time to putting the bottles into the cooler, heaping round them pieces of ice. Also have ready, in one or more small glass dishes or saucers, a sufficiency of bright clean ice, broken into small bits, (with a dessert spoon in each dish, ) for the purpose of using while at table to cool the glasses of wine or water. Cut the dinner bread into thick oblong pieces or blocks; as it is not customary to slice bread, except for breakfast or tea; and take care to have enough in the bread-basket to supply all the persons at the table with a second piece, if required. It is extremely awkward to be obliged to replenish the bread-basket in the midst of dinner, some of the company, perhaps, waiting for it in the mean time. Every thing may be so arranged before-hand that the waiter will not have occasion to leave the room during the progress of the dinner.

First lay down the crumb-cloth; and then, if there is a woollen cover on the dining-table, remove it before you put on the linen cloth, which must be laid smoothly and evenly, so as not to hang down more on one side than the other. Bring in the things (as many at one time as you can) on your tray. Set your plates round the table, one for every person, but place them at the sides only, except those that are intended for the master and mistress of the house, who of course occupy the two ends and will not be able to carve so conveniently of any one is seated beside them.

It is always better to have too much space than too little; and it is therefore advisable to set a table rather to large for the company, than one that is in the least too small. We have seen a whole dinner party made uncomfortable all the time, from being crowded at a table of insufficient size; and in warm weather, particularly, this is no trifling inconvenience.” (She continues in detail how to properly set the table on p 257)

 I currently plan to put up other notes I have from household guide books as well as some odds and ends. In the last post I said I think I will also put up some notes on the kitchen linens. This would include those used for cleaning, food prep and storage in the pantry. While entering the notes above I was thinking about visuals, primarily of dining rooms. Then while typing the part about napkins on the lap, I wondered about non-genteel usages of the napkin such as in the drinking area of a tavern. So, I think I will try to find some images other than nicer dining rooms as well.

Published in: on October 26, 2009 at 1:00 am  Leave a Comment