A Year in Millinery Fashion – 1864

A Black Velvet Bonnet, with
plain front and cap crown, from Mrs. Cripps, 912 Canal street, New York. On the
left side is a heavy rosette of black velvet, under which is fastened a
magnificent cherry willow feather, which sweeps over the front and down the right
side to the bottom of the cape. On the inside are mixed black and white ruches
on both sides; on the top is a full white ruche, a rich bow of cherry velvet,
with an end on the lower side; on the right is a bunch of black feather
flowers. Broad black strings. (Peterson’s, February, 1864)
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Published in: on February 10, 2014 at 1:01 am  Leave a Comment  
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Video Lectures on the Homefront

Someone, sorry I don’t remember who, shared this website on FB: http://cwmemory.com/2014/02/02/in-the-classroom-with-gary-gallagher/ After listening to the first video “The Confederate Homefront, pt 1”, which covered mostly the political state for the Confederate homefront. I ventured on to the Youtube page. Here I found the more useful “The Confederate Homefront, pt 2” In this video, Gallagher discusses the state of refugees. I would highly suggest this video to newer reenactors or those who need an introduction to refugees.

He also has a two part piece on women during the war, “Women at War” These videos are also very worth watching, being good introductory overviews of women. At approx 6 minutes, he begins to discuss the “ideal”. Of particular interest is American women’s desire to gain weight.

Published in: on February 3, 2014 at 4:00 pm  Leave a Comment  

Book Notice: Wearable Prints, 1760-1860

It is here! Well, it isn’t here with me…. yet. So, here are KittyCalash’s thoughts on the arrival of Susan Greene’s book we’ve been waiting for Wearable Prints, 1760-1860.
Remember, the Greene collection is now housed at the Genesee Country Village in Mumford, NY.

Hmmm….. Now, I’m picturing a “Greene” Swap for the Fall. Wouldn’t it be fun to find fabrics similar to those Susan talks about?

Kitty Calash

This just in, literally, from the mail carrier: Susan W. Greene’s long-awaited book,Wearable Prints, 1760-1860. It’s discounted (and out of stock) at Amazon, but should be shipping soon, since I have one right here on my desk.

It’s fair to call this book lavishly illustrated (1600 full-color images in almost 600 pages), and while I have access to a copy at work, I am seriously thinking of buying my own copy, based solely on about 10 minutes skimming the book. There are images not just of fabric samples but also of garments, paper dolls and illustrations that help put the fabrics into context. Images of garments from collections I can’t get into? Delicious! Information to help me understand how to use a printed cotton? Even better.

The book is organized in three main sections: Overview, Colors, and Mechanics. Appendices include timelines, prohibitions, price comparisons, print characteristics, and more…

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Merry Christmas

Merry Christmas 2013

Published in: on December 25, 2013 at 1:01 am  Comments (1)  

Fringe Friday! 1847 plaid taffeta dress with fringe and tassels! #cw150 #costume

Oh, how I love 40s clothing. How I wish I could wear this color.

civilianwartime

Second-day dress, blue and amber plaid taffeta trimmed with fringe and silk covered buttons with tassels.  Worn by Laura Battle Phillips in Chapel Hill, Orange County, North Carolina after her marriage to Charles Phillips in Chapel Hill, December 8, 1847.  Made in Philadelphia.

Source: Collections of the NC Museum of History, accession number 1923.5.5.  Search our collections here.

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Published in: on December 20, 2013 at 2:51 pm  Leave a Comment  

Made Pinck a housewife, a small one & fixed some needles, thread & buttons in it for him. #cw150

One of today’s posts includes mention of a sewing case. Love that. If you don’t already follow this blog, it is a great one to read.

civilianwartime

 Monday 14th [December 1863]

I done but little today. Made Pinck a housewife, a small one & fixed some needles, thread & buttons in it for him. He is delighted with it. They will start sometime this week. No news from Mr. Henry. All quiet along the lines. My little ones all well & I am thankful of it. Five soldiers stay here tonight. They are from Texas. Aunt Patsey warped the cloth for the boy’s pants.

Tuesday 15th [December 1863]

Harrie went to Asheville this morning & brought me a letter from Mr. Henry. He is at Paint Rock & well. Betsy & Aunt Patsey put in the cloth & began it. Aunt Patsey went home this evening. Jinnie scoured my room & the dining room today. I have been fixing up Pinck’s things & done nothing of importance.

Source: Diary of Cornelia Henry in Fear in…

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Published in: on December 15, 2013 at 6:32 pm  Leave a Comment  

The Winner Is!

A special thank you to K and E for assisting me in drawing the winner of the Fanciful Utility Thank You Give-Away.
The winner is…..
Duchess!!!
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Thank you all for entering my very first give-away. I will get Duchess’s Stash Enhancer packaged up for the post.

I hope everyone has enjoyed a safe Thanksgiving!

Published in: on November 28, 2013 at 9:59 pm  Comments (2)  

Doll Hair Isn’t Squishy

On Friday I came home to a box on our porch. Inside was something that made me squeal…… 4mm Swiss straw plait.
I had told myself I would not do any millinery until after Christmas. Well, there sat that plait, screaming “play with me, play with me!”
Oh, how it teased!
I just couldn’t take it anymore. I cut off a length of it. Soaked it. And, began to coil the tip of a small doll bonnet.
Ah, finally, a plait in the right proportion to look right to me.
The plait was quite nice to work with. I learned quickly not to work it with my nails as it would split. This plait is actually the width of some single whole straw strips. I sewed in to the evening Friday. I sewed while watching cheese holiday romance movies on Saturday. I wrapped up the last of it as soon as we got back from shopping today.
As I finished, I became more and more excited about just how cute it looked. I kept showing it to DB. It was so cute. Check it out:

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Mae was finally going to have her own bonnet.
I got Mae and her box down. Sat on the floor all excited. Unpacked her. Put the bonnet on her head….. and frowned. Porcelain doll hair does not squish. Her hair is so wide, her head is a full 2 inches wider than Jo’s.
Small pout. Okay, Jo can have this one. Get Jo out…..
Again, porcelain doll hair does not squish.
Jo’s hair is big and goes higher on her head by about a quarter-inch.
Pout.
See, here is the problem:

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The hair pushed the back of the bonnet up, forcing the cheektabs back.

So, I’ve started another bonnet with the needed changes

Published in: on November 17, 2013 at 7:30 pm  Leave a Comment  

Today’s random finds

I rushed back to town after work to make it to an estate sale. Once there, I found they only take cash. Sadness.
With the little bit of cash (and every last bit of change) I was able to pick up two things.
This pin

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And a the first piece of my 20th century obsession, Rosepoint by Steubenville, pre-silly decal-esque images.

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Please look forward to a fun post coming soon.

Published in: on November 15, 2013 at 11:19 pm  Leave a Comment  

The Intrepid: Discovering Lincoln’s Balloon Corps – Video Now Available

This past month, The Intrepid: Discovering Lincoln’s Balloon Corps premiered on PBS. The video has now been released on DVD and Blu-Ray.

You can order your copy from the Genesee Country Village & Museum.

Intrepid Video

Published in: on November 12, 2013 at 5:57 am  Leave a Comment