Today’s Doll Millinery

Today, I have two doll millinery pieces to offer in my Etsy shop. The first is a fashionable hat in pale straw. Second, a dome shaped hat similar to the one I just offered yesterday in a human size.

Here, Cali models the first hat. This is a fashionable style suited for the 1850s or early 1860s. Cali says this will be best for a doll with an 8″ to 9″ circumference head. Her head is just a bit over 9″

The second hat is era versatile. The round, dome shape appears in multiple eras including the 1840s and early 1860s. Cali suggests this hat is best for a doll smaller than she is, with a head that measures between 7″ and 7.5″. The hat stand displayed measure 7.5″

Published in: on March 6, 2016 at 11:26 am  Leave a Comment  

Today’s Millinery

Currently available in my Etsy shop.

Add a lace or net veil around this brim, and this hat will give excellent sun dimming for the eyes.

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It isn’t very often I include photos of myself with the hats I offer. But, I think this helps give a good idea of the look. I measure 21.5″ at my hairline, where this hat sits. The brim reaches over my eyes. From the front, you can see I can still see easily without the brim covering my face. (If I tilted the hat further forward, I would have even more coverage.)

Here is an assortment of images showing this shape with varied depths of the brim.

Illustrations – Godey’s Magazine 1862. Photographs – circa 1840s.

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A Walk on the Beach, Augustus Leopold Egg, 1855-60.

Published in: on March 5, 2016 at 8:21 am  Leave a Comment  

Common Pin Cushions

Standing in my sewing room tonight I was kinda dazed by current events. I pulled out one of the carry totes that had packed up since last fall. Opening it, I found I had an abundance of pincushion pieces.

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American Girl’s Book, Eliza Leslie, 1854.

One set in particular stood out. They were the pieces for a common pincushion of the mid-nineteenth century. They are flannel filled centers wrapped in ribbon, some with pasteboard. Directions can be found in two of the popular girls’ books, The Girl’s Own Book and American Girl’s Book.

At the right, are the directions from Eliza Leslie. The simple cushion calls for the flannel interior to be rolled tightly.

Below, are the directions from Mrs. Child. Her version calls for covering pasteboard circles first. Then cutting the flannel interior layers in the shape of the pasteboard. This is the version I have many pieces cut out for. In my case, I did opt for layers of cotton and wool batting instead of using the harder to find wool flannel. If I had all the time in the world, I would paint the silk sides as she suggests.

The forms into which pincushions have been manufactured of late, are without number. The most common consists of two circles of pasteboard, covered with silk, with narrow ribbon sewed between , and stuffed with bits of flannel cut to the size of the pasteboard. Cotton is very bad for stuffing, because the pins enter it with difficulty; and, when the cushions are of such shape that they can be stuffed with flannel, it is much preferable to wool. When sewed with silk of a very decided colour, and the stitches taken with great regularity, an edge, resembling delicate cord, may be produced.

Some cut the pasteboard into oblong pieces, and then paint rabbits or squirrels, of a size suitable to cover each side, and, after the cushion is made, they paste them on; the place for the pins then comes between the two rabbits. Others paint a cat seated, for each side, and make a cushion of such a shape as will fit in well. Some cut the figures of the cats in black velvet, and put little spangles for eyes. I have seen butterflies painted and pasted on each side, in the same way. Some do the paintings on rice-paper and put them on cardboard, cute out precisely in the shape of the figure. They look rather rich , but are more easily injured. A very pretty pincushion may be made in the shape of a small easy chair. (The Girl’s Own Book, by Mrs. Child. Child, Lydia Maria. 1858.)

Very worth mentioning is what Child calls “bachelor’s pincushions.” I see what are often called pinwheels in antique shops. They range from simple circles to pretty shapes. I’ve always found these to be a nice option for carrying pins in a traveling sewing case. Knowing that at one point, they were considered appropriate for men to carry in their pockets is quiet interesting.

What are called “bachelor’s pincushions,” are made very thin, so that gentlemen can carry them in their pockets with convenience. No margin of ribbon, or taste, is put between the bits of pasteboard, in making these cushions. Two round pieces of pasteboard are covered with silk, and neatly sewed together with one or two thin pieces of flannel between them. Of course, merely one circle of pins can be put in. (The Girl’s Own Book, by Mrs. Child. Child, Lydia Maria. 1858.)

 

 

Published in: on March 3, 2016 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment  

Today’s Millinery – Black Hat

Available in my Etsy Shop.

This black straw hat is a fashionable 1860’s style appropriate for the Civil War era. The brim dips front and back in an elegant shape. The crown is squared with a slightly rounded edge.

This hat will fit an average to large size head. It is made to sit high on your head. I suggest lining this hat as the straw is rough inside and the dye may rub in humid conditions.

 

Published in: on February 28, 2016 at 10:14 am  Leave a Comment  

Finishing/Decorating A Straw Bonnet

You have your straw form from myself, Danielle, Pam, Kim or Vivian… Now you want to finish and decorate it.

Recommended Shopping List:

  • Danielle’s book from Timely Tresses: Finishing a Straw Bonnet Form
  • Cotton net to line your bavolet
  • Fine cotton or silk net (bobbinette), or silk organza or lace for your frill/cap
  • Fine cotton voile or silk taffeta to line your brim
  • 3 yards minimum of wide (silk or quality rayon) ribbon (2 yards for ties, 1 yard for bavolet, additional for decoration/bows) (silk taffeta is also an option for the bavolet.)
  • 1 yard of 3/4″-1″ wide silk or cotton sateen ribbon for ties.
  • Ribbon and laces of choice for decoration
  • Flowers and feathers of choice for decoration
  • 1/2″-3/4″ wide velvet for optional stay

Recommended Reading List:

And just in case =  Millinery Care and First Aid

(I already had an original article on Finishing a bonnet scheduled. It will be up in a couple weeks.)

Published in: on February 25, 2016 at 6:00 am  Comments (1)  

Bleaching and Coloring Bonnet

Moore’s Rural New-Yorker from Rochester, N.Y., May 17, 1862

Publication2http://www.libraryweb.org/rochimag/roads/moores.htm

Published in: on February 24, 2016 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment  

Sew Along – Work Bag – Finishing the Silk Bag

 

I hang my head. I am much, much delayed in posting the finishing directions for the silk bag. 

Remember this channel that was made when we attached the lining and silk? We are simply going to run a silk ribbon or cord through it.

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For each side, cut between 12″ and 18″ depending on how long you want your handles to be. (or cut one 24″ to 36″ long piece.)

Run the ribbon or cord from the inside where the bag meets the pasteboard, to the top of the bag’s channel and back to the base on the other side.

I prefer to work a small hole in the base of the lining to access the channel.

Also use a bodkin or stiletto to work a hole in the top of the silk. You may want to do a fine button hole stitch around this hole.

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I also use my bodkin to bring the ribbon/cord through the channel.

I anchor the ribbon/cord at the base of the channel. This could be done with a knot at each end or folding the end over and stitching down. Since I used a single ribbon, I tied one side and have a flat ribbon on the other side.

My finished version:

 

 

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Where that channel is:

Line the fold of the lining up so it is just below the edge of the outer fabric and pasteboard. (1-2mm) Pin as needed to keep everything lined up.

With a blind stitch or whip stitch, attach the lining to the outer fabric and pasteboard.

***As you attach the lining, you are also creating a channel you will use later for the ribbon/cord to go through.

Finished with the lining.

Published in: on February 23, 2016 at 7:26 pm  Comments (3)  

Re-Reading

There are times I scroll back through my blog remembering all the things I forgot I posted about. It seems sort of silly, but, I do forget what I have written and shared over the years.

Today, I am noticing a few thematic postings I forgot about. Each of these are sets of posts I actually remembered to tag as groups. (I am awfully bad about that.):

In hopes of not completely burying so many of these past posts, I added a “Tag Cloud” at the bottom of the right-hand side.

Published in: on February 23, 2016 at 6:00 am  Comments (2)  

Tonight’s Millinery

Now available on Etsy.

This hat is suitable for an average to large head. It has a shallow shaped crown and a fashionably curved brim.

Published in: on February 22, 2016 at 7:27 pm  Leave a Comment  

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Published in: on February 17, 2016 at 1:07 pm  Enter your password to view comments.