Today’s Millinery – A Stroll in the Vineyard 

This bonnet it all about lush from the beautiful velvet grapes to the vintage purple velvet ribbon to the green double faced satin ribbon. 

Available in my Etsy shop. 

Published in: on July 21, 2016 at 12:13 pm  Leave a Comment  

Yesterday’s Millinery 

I can’t believe I forgot to blog about this bonnet yesterday. 

This is the first 1840s bonnet off my original 1840s block!!!


This one does already have a home. 

Published in: on July 20, 2016 at 3:51 pm  Leave a Comment  

Today’s Millinery 

It aught not surprise you that after Galaxy arrived, I kept looking at other blocks. A little wooden crown caught my eye. It fit the period lines oh so well. 

 Btw, this block came out of the box saying “I am Groot”

This is the first half off that block. It is 21 1/2″ around the brim, more round than my hand carved blocks. The flat top crown and smooth dipping brim are elegant with a bit of sass. 

It isn’t in my Etsy shop yet because I want to decorate this one. 

Published in: on July 20, 2016 at 3:49 pm  Comments (2)  

Thinking Out Loud

The question of the day seems to be “will I make veils?”

I don’t know. I had not intended to. I wanted to make another one for me and for display. I planned to give details on how I made mine. I thought, maybe, I would make another or so for friends if the right materials appeared. 

Here is what I am thinking.

Materials:

  •  Silk net – $15 a piece or $10 if I can get a remnant again. Plus shipping. 
  • 1 1/2 yards of appropriate silk lace – approx $15-$50
  • There seems to be a cotton option. From memory the net is less, shipping more, lace may be less. 

Personal thoughts:

– By far, the most time will be spent finding the right lace. I am not well versed in lace. So, I am very cautious, maybe overly so and picky.  I need to buy a couple really good lace reference books. (The library is not an immediate option as the closing on Friday for a month and a half.) 

– I registered put nylon or polyester on a person’s face. It goes against every safety bone in my body. 

– At the same time, I do not want to use antique lace. First, it is antique. Second, it is likely fragile and not likely to hold up to wear. 

– I am not  completely happy with my stitches on the net. I do have an idea abohoe to do it better. But, I also know someone who would be far better at the fine needlework. 

I estimate, with the cost of materials, time looking for the right lace, and fine sewing time, a simple veil will need to start well over the $100 point. 

So, right now, I am going to say “No, I am not going to make veils. If I come across the right lace, maybe I will make one to offer.” 

The same will be true for hat lace. I can add a lace as I find the right piece. I can’t spend hours hunting. 

Published in: on July 20, 2016 at 2:43 pm  Leave a Comment  

Veil Light Study

What does one do on a sunny, cool morning when a hat isn’t dry? A veil light study of course. 

My uber scientific method includes a straw bonnet with a deep brim, a stand, camera and assorted original and reproduction veils. Put bonnet on stand. Drape bonnet with veil. Slide camera up underneath. Take photos. While this doesn’t give an exact reflection of what light control the wearer feels,it is a start.

The backyard without a veil. 

Original hat veil. Fiber undetermined.

Black silk gauze, made by me

White silk gauze, made by Bevin.

Original silk net with light dots. 

Silk net trimmed in lace made by me.

When I unwrapped the one antique veil, I realized I have another somewhere in the house.I don’t know where. Hopefully, I was good and put it in one of the archival boxes with the winter bonnets. When I find it, I will try to replicate the photos, but the sun will be different. 

Another in would have liked to photograph through is Bevin’s green silk gauze veil. 

Personal Observations 

So far, I think I prefer the black silk gauze. I will have to wear both the gauze and the net a few more times to be sure. The gauze seems to soften the light more. The net seems to be a shade for the light. The white gauze softens some in low sun light. But, in bright sunlight it creates glare. The silk net has notably more body than the original, which is nearly as soft as the gauze. I was much more aware of it feel wise when I first put it on, compared to the gauze. The net was less disturbed, moved by the wind when I walked. 

The photos suggest more obscuring of vision than I find to be the case when wearing them. 

Published in: on July 20, 2016 at 9:26 am  Comments (4)  

Today’s Millinery 

This was a popular, fashionable hat on display this weekend. It has a flatter crown with a curved brim. 

Find it in my Etsy shop.

Published in: on July 18, 2016 at 1:23 pm  Comments (1)  

Millinery for the Millinery at GCV this weekend 

I have an assortment of millinery I am bring with me to display a the the Genesee Country Village this week for their Civil War event, where I will be setting up a millinery in the insurance office. 

  • A wide brim hat appropriate for recreational or dress reform impressions.(shown with a lace veil)
  • A larger crown fashion hat.
  • A smaller fashion hat that may also fit a child.
  • A decorated soft crown, fancy plait bonnet.
  • A fashionable bonnet with decorative plait.
  • A plain spoon bonnet.
  • A cottage bonnet.

Each of these millinery pieces will be available following the event. I have yet to decide which I will be decorating during the event. 

I will be dressing the shop in all sorts of millinery goods, band boxes, ribbons, veils, veil pins, etc. I’ll be available for millinery consultations. 

I will also give a talk in the Gallery on millinery selections from the Susan Greene collection. Time to be determined. 

Published in: on July 11, 2016 at 8:12 pm  Comments (1)  

Today’s Millinery -A Cottage Bonnet 

You knew I could not hold out with the bonnet block tempting me. 

Last night, I went out to the kitchen to block this cottage style bonnet by hand with my own blocks. There it was, on the washer just crying out for attention. I wasn’t sure it it would work, being so many years apart. But, I gave it a try. I am glad I did. This gave a nice roomy tip and pretty round brim.

 Find it in my Etsy shop.

*Keep in mind next week I’ll need to pull several pieces for the demonstration at the museum.

Published in: on July 6, 2016 at 5:57 pm  Leave a Comment  

Today’s Millinery – Chapeaux de Paille

This particular hat was a bit of a challenge. I met a woman at the GCV Jane Austen/1812 event who wanted to see me make a shape she called a “capote”. I have to admit, from My mid-nineteenth century perspective I had quite a bit of trouble wrapping my head around this shape that encompassed the back of the head with no brim. 

Of course, I had to look a little further. Looking at fashion plates and originals, I saw a few things. First, the word capote being used for soft bonnets in several shapes, often cap like, but not in straw. 😦 Next, originals in the shape she described made out of fancy straw plaits, an inch to two inches wide. Not the plait that is easily acquired, nor tried on a new shape. I also saw a few plates with similar shapes in straw. These were each called Chapeaux de Paille. 

From The Museum of London.

Working from the fashion plates, this is the bonnet/hat I created. As I started working with the straw, the illustration with the flared brim and green spray is where I leaned for the brim and front of the crown, while looking more towards the two with blue ribbons for the crown and tip. I used my new block to get the shape of the crown as I learned from the test block that it fit the head very nicely. 


I see this lined through the brim with a flattering color silk taffeta and a spray of greenery or blossoms around the flare. (I’m eyeing a champagne silk for the inside.) 

I will get this listed soon. 

Here is the shop listing. (Sold)

Published in: on July 5, 2016 at 5:50 pm  Comments (9)  

I Shall Call Her Galaxy

img_20160623_132652.jpg

Yes, Galaxy.
Why?

Because, when my new, original bonnet block arrived Clara was instantly fascinated. She kept trying to lick it. So, I covered it with a blanket. Next thing I knew, she was curled up with it; guarding it.

…..Guardian….. Guardians of the Galaxy…..

Thus, Galaxy.

Now, what you really want to know is about the block.

At first, the seller’s photos didn’t tell much. We could tell it was a bonnet block.(I asked a trusted millinery friend.) We thought is might be an 1820s block.

Once I had it out of the box, it was saying 1840s. This 1840s plate of bonnets came to mind. The shape of the crown and brim seemed like a near match. The tip was what was different, round verses flat.

I have to admit, I was a bit bonkers, kid in a candy candy shop the first few days it was here. I really wanted to test it out. Since I don’t work with woven straw, I didn’t have a straw hood laying around to block. Luckily, when I went to order more color straw, she had a closeout Toyo hood for me to test on.

 


If you think watching paint dry takes a while, watching Toyo takes longer. Here are the untrimmed results.

 


After cutting, Clara inspected.

 


At first, I thought it was small. I laughed thinking my luck was to get a child’s bonnet block. Then I out it on. Small was not the case.

 


The plait version will get rows of plait around the bottom edge. It is taking tremendous self control not to jump into making a bunch of bonnets with the block right Now. But, I really have to focus on the pieces for the CW event that weekend after next.

Btw – I am discovering I can block a few other shapes on this block.

Published in: on July 5, 2016 at 8:00 am  Comments (3)  
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