Show Your Millinery Give Away!!!

I’ve been a bit grumpy and stressed lately. Time to cheer things up!

It is time for a Give Away!!!

1878 natural form editThe Prize: Making its debut this weekend… GCV is releasing its Centuries of Fashions Cards–!!! Each set includes 12 high quality photos of fashion from 1790 to 1912 worn by the museum’s models. The winner will receive one of these very first sets. Future sets will include pieces from the Greene Collection! (Image created by Tantalo Studio, Rochester, NY)

The Deadline: Friday, the 22nd of May

The Ways to Enter:

Spring straw bonnet banner 2015First, Show Me Your Millinery! Take a photo of you wearing a piece of millinery I made and Share it on Facebook, Twitter or in the Comments below. Be sure link it back to this give-away and to tag me so I see it. (Don’t own a piece of my millinery yet? If you have a friend who will let you enter with her bonnet or hat, you can enter that way too.)

wpid-2015-02-21-13.21.54.jpg.jpegSecond, Inspire Me! I love the inspiration the world around me offers. The color, the texture, the beauty of the natural world provides a palette of inspiration for when I sit down to work. Take a photo of something you think will inspire a beautiful bonnet or hat. Share it on Facebook, Twitter or in the Comments below. Be sure link it back to this give-away and to tag me so I see it. 
I will compile all the photos to share in a blog post that will announce the winner.

Third, Buy Millinery! Stop by my Etsy shop. For each purchase, you will be entered. 

The winner will be randomly selected on Friday, May 22nd!    

Published in: on May 6, 2015 at 4:00 pm  Comments (2)  

The Plain Straw Hat (or Bonnet)

The Plain Straw Hat

Published in: on April 30, 2015 at 4:51 pm  Leave a Comment  
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How Do I Store My Bonnet(s)?

wpid-2013-10-26-10.34.27.jpgOne of the “Ask the Milliner” questions was about storing bonnets. I did answer it. But, now I feel like I want to say more about it.

There are a few layers or directions with this:

  • Short term vs Long term storage
  • Home storage vs Event/Site storage
  • Stationary storage vs Mobile storage

There are a few things to consider with each.

For long term storage, meaning the storage from year to year at home, you will want to consider the containers you use and the environment they will be stored in. If you have anything original, antique or vintage on your bonnet, you may want to consider using archival boxes and paper. If you have a moisture or mouse issue, you will want a more air-tight and nibble proof container. Since I house my bonnets inside my home and don’t generally use original materials, I use a Sterilite tote (right)

that fits 2 bonnets comfortably and 3 if need be without squeezing. The totes sit on their shelves that are adjusted to the height of the totes.

Ideally, I would have a head form or stand inside each tote for each bonnet to keep the weight of the bonnet from crushing the bavolet or misshaping the cheektabs. If this is not possible, the least crushable position in my opinion is to have the bonnet sit on the tip facing upward. This is assuming there are no decorations on the back of the tip.

Ribbons can wrinkle or sag while stored. A trick for the long, loose ribbons is to take acid free tissue and roll it into in a tube shape. Start at the end of the ribbon and roll it up neatly. Repeat on the opposite side. If the bonnet is on a stand, tuck the ribbon between the cheektabs and the stand. If it is on the tip, set the ribbon rolls inside. For the loops of bows or decoration, take the same tissue rolled into light balls. Tuck the tissue balls inside the loops. You may want to do this to support any particularly large, heavy flowers. I find light, delicate decorations are best left without anything touching them.

For mobile storage, such as moving or long distance transportation to & from events, you will want to consider how the bonnet(s) will move inside the box. I have found that a tote of boxes when turned on end causes the bonnets inside to all fall on their bavolets. When this is not caught, it takes hours to try to steam out the wrinkles and get the right shape back. Keeping the bonnets from moving can save a lot of trouble later. This can be done with tissue as it is light yet helps hold in space. I would avoid using anything heavy or bulky inside with a bonnet as it may cause crushing rather than helping.  My dream fix is a stand attached to the bottom of the box and a gentle way of attaching the bonnet to the top of the stand.

carrying 2For event or site storing/carrying/displaying, you will want a period correct option. This pretty much comes down to bandboxes, bonnet baskets and a couple other unique options. While currently we are offered circular hat boxes with nifty cords looping about them, mid-nineteenth century boxes were a bit different. First, most were a different shape. They were an oval, squared off oval or a rounded off rectangle. Second, they did not have the nifty cords. Third, they were generally much stronger than many of the thin boxes sold today. In my opinion, when looking for a band box, you want one that is strong, thick walled, large enough for a bonnet to lay on its tip, and with a period paper or able to be recovered.wpid-2015-04-15-16.14.24.jpg.jpeg As the oval shapes are not easily found currently, I have found deep round boxes are nice for short term bonnet transportation (ie in the car to an event) and wider round boxes do okay as long as they are strong.

I almost forgot. I wanted to say something about size. Looking at the oval and ovalesque boxes used for millinery, most offered at auction or on museum sites: The lengths seem to range from 15″ to 22″ with 18″ being the most frequent. The widths seem to range from 12″ to 18″ with the width proportionately increasing with the length. The depths or heights seem to range from 8″ to 15″ with more landing between 10″ and 14″. Of course there are larger and smaller bandboxes. There seem to be a good number of extant boxes just smaller than those I grouped. Just looking at images with notes, I can not say what their particular use was.

imageNow, if you’ve ever tried to carry a stack of bandboxes, especially in a breeze, you know it isn’t easy to the point of comical. This is where bags come in – shaped to fit the bottom of a bandbox, tall enough to carry at least 2. I find these are essential as I can carry 2, 3, 4 band boxes of bonnets up and down the stairs or across the village at the same time.

Further Reading:

“Strike Up the Band(box)!”

For those doing period traveling (there are many other articles here of travel):

Bandboxes are seldom used now, except for the convenience of conveying a cap, bonnet,
or dress to the house of a friend or milliner. They are rarely found among the baggage of a
genteel female traveler, square wooden boxes, with locks, keys, and handles, being substituted
for them. These wooden boxes are generally tall enough to contain a folded dress under the
bonnet or other millinery, and should be painted on the outside. They will last for many years,
will bear exposure, and can go outside with the rest of the baggage. Tall square leather trunks
are sometimes used for carrying bonnets, &c. A paste-board bandbox ought to have a strong
loop of twine, red tape [red cotton twill tape used to tie documents together], or galloon [a
trimming of wool, silk, cotton, worsted or a combination of fiber], passed through one side, large
enough to slip over the hand in carrying it. To secure the lid, bore two holes in it near the edges,
one on each side, and pass through them strong pieces of string, each about a quarter of a yard in
length, fastened by a knot on the inside. Make two corresponding holes near the upper edge of
the bandbox itself, and pass a similar string through each of them. Then put on the lid, and tie
each pair of strings in a tight bow knot. These is no better way of keeping a bandbox fast. (Miss Leslie’s House-Book)
Published in: on April 15, 2015 at 7:38 pm  Comments (3)  

“The Old Bonnet” by Henrietta N. Babb.

“I do so wish Sallie Curtis would not wear that old bonnet!” exclaimed a lady, as she entered the parlor of a fashionable boarding-house, which some half dozen families miscalled “home” – that sweet word, which the heart can only apply to the place that shelters our own household band!

“Why does Miss Curtis’ bonnet trouble you? Asked her husband, laughingly.

“Trouble me? indeed it does – indeed it does – it takes away all my comfort in church! It looked badly enough in the early part of the season, but now that all the ladies in the pews around them have such elegant new hats, Sallie and her mother do look most forlorn in their old straws!?

“Is her mother’s as bad as hers?”

“Yes; and a hundred times worse. IT is shameful for ladies in their position to dress so meanly! I beg your pardon, Mrs. T—-, I did not see you,” said the last speaker, with a blush.

“Oh, you need not apologize to ma, she sees Cousin Sallie’s hat in the same light in which you do, and aunt’s too!” spoke up a young lady, at the side of the person addressed.

“Yes, indeed; and I am not surprised at their being the subject of remark. I told them it would be so, when I saw them fixing up their bonnets, (for they trimmed them themselves with ribbon they had in the house;) but I hoped then they would be worn for a few weeks, until cold weather set in; but they are bent on making them do service during the entire winter! Such a foolish notion as my sister-in-law has in her head; because this is a hard winter, and business men are cramped for money, she is determined to save a dime wherever she can, without causing actual suffering to herself and family! I am lecturing her continually on the absurdity of her course, but I cannot mover her. I told her that Sallie could not possibly do without a new bonnet this winter, even if she did. A married lady, you know, may occasionally enjoy the privilege of being careless about her own dress; people take it for granted that in her anxiety about her family, she has forgotten herself; but it is absolutely necessary for a young lady to be always well dressed, and I am sure I am ashamed of Sallie, this winter! My Julia wouldn’t wear her best hat, even for ‘a hack bonnet’”

“No, that I would not!” said the young lady. “I should be afraid of losing caste, if I did so!”

“But I thought Mr. Curtis was a man of wealth!” said an intimate friend to Mrs. T— , in a lower tone.

“He is considered so; but now even the wealthiest men are embarrassed, you know. My husband says that one dollar, this winter, is worth more than two were last year!” she said laughing.

“But you are not obliged to economize?” and the speaker glance at the rich velvet, costly furs, and the “lovely hat,” in which Mrs. T— was arrayed.

“Me! oh, I can’t do it; and if I could, where would be the use of worrying and slaving myself to asve a little here, and a little there? What would it all amount to, in the end? A few hundred dollars, which, if my husband is going to fail, could not prevent him, and which I may as well enjoy while I can! My sister-in-law says that if her husband becomes involved, it shall not be through any extravagance of hers; and that she is resolved

to make no unnecessary purchases this winter. I represented to her that with all her efforts, she could not save more than a trifle, and that she had better give up the struggle and take things as they come; but her earnest answer was – ‘No, Elizabeth, although the sum may be ever so trifling, I am resolved to exercise self denial, in order that I may have the satisfaction of feeling that I have done what I could!” It has really become quite a mania with her, and Sallie just like her mother. Whenever I tell her of anything she needs, her reply invariably is – ‘I can do without it at present, for we wish to economize,’ or, ‘we are trying to retrench.’
“What a pity! She is such a fine-looking girl, when well-dressed!”

“I know it; and I am so glad you alluded to her dress, for I meant to tell her it has been remarked upon, and I shall do my best to prevent her face being again seen under that old bonnet!”

The ladies who carried on the above conversation, and a listener, of whom they little dreamed. Mr. R—, a wealthy and elegant gentleman, who had spent several years in Europe, and had lately returned home, with nothing to do but to seek enjoyment and a wife, lay on a sofa in the adjoining parlor trying to reed, but unconsciously taking in all that the ladies said.

“So Miss T— would be afraid of losing caste, if she wore a bonnet as her cousin’s, would she?” he repeated to himself sneeringly. “How finely her position in society must be established, if so a slight a thing as a straw hat could hurl her from her place! When will our women have that noble independence which should be their birthright?” and as the voices died away, he lay musing for some time upon the old straw bonnet, and its wearer.

Despite the eloquent way in which Mrs. T—- reported to her niece the remarks that had been made upon her old bonnet, Sallie’s pretty face was still seen under it at church, and on the street.

“You foolish child!” the aunt persisted, “what are ten or fifteen dollars to your father, in his business, when he has thousands of dollars to pay out almost every day?”

“Very little, I know; but then the consciousness that I am trying to lighten his cares, is a great deal to me; and mother says that the feeling of independence, which we call forth by our self-denial, will be lasting benefit to me.”

“Pshaw! you don’t know the disadvantage it may prove to you! Just in an age when the appearance you make will have a great influence on your future destiny; it is all –important that you should look as well as possible; and what girl can appear in an old bonnet?”

“Mother, just think of it,” exclaimed Julia T—, a few days after. “Sallie fancies she can go to that party in the with dress that she has worn, I don’t know how many times!”

“You don’t mean to say that she had not made a new dress for this occasion?”

“So she says.”

“Well, then she had better stay at home, that’s all!”

“So I told her myself. I wouldn’t go into society in an old dress, if I never went at all, for I should not expect to receive the least attention! But let me tell you the funniest thing you ever heard, Ma!” continued the young lady, laughing immoderately, as if she just recalled something excessively ludicrous. “She thinks she can’t even afford a new pair of gloves for the party, and so what do you suppose she has done? Taken soap and milk and cleaned the pair she wore to Mrs. C—-‘s; I laughed ready to kill myself, when she showed them to me with the assurance that they were ‘just as good as new!”

“How did they look?”

“I couldn’t see for laughing’ and just think mother, they have dismissed the seamstress, and Sallie is going to do the family-sewing, until times are easier, she says!”

“Why, is there anything especially wrong in her father’s affairs?”

“Oh, no; only the old story of, ‘he is embarrassed, and I wish to do what I can!”

It is said “stone walls have ears;” I do not know how true it is, but somehow or other, Mr. R—- overheard this conversation, as distinctly as he had the one about the old bonnet.

One word respecting that gentleman. Young ladies said he was about thirty; certainly spinsters and affirmed that he was “all of thirty-five,” while he laughingly owned to thirty-three; but he was so lively and interesting in conversation, that even very young girls forgot his age.

After the above revelations respecting the economy of Miss Curtis’ toilet, he certainly expected her to present a shabby appearance at the party; and he began to dread seeing her pass through the trying ordeal of feeling herself the most illy-dressed person in the room; and enduring the slights consequent upon that circumstance, she did not appear until quite late, and as he looked around upon the rich satins and gorgeous silks, in which many of the guests were arrayed, he found himself hoping that she might not come at all.

“There is one young lady here, dressed in such pure artistic taste, can you tell me who she is?” inquired a friend at his elbow. “There talking to that tall man with the light hair!”

Mr. R—- looked, and recognized Sallie. But he sought in vain for evidence of her dress being old, or unfit to grace a scene like that. Its snowy folds were a positive relief to the eye, dazzled by so much splendor, while her dark hair – which formed so fine a contrast to her alabaster skin and white dress – was most tastefully arranged, and ornamented with a few white rose-buds. The effect of that simple toilet was perfect, but he remembered what had been said of the gloves, and looked eagerly at her hands.

“If they are the same, she was right in pronouncing them as good as new,” he said to himself; and so absorbed was he by these profound reflections, that he almost forgot to reply to his friend.

The crisis that business men had apprehended came, and those whose credit had stood highest, were the first to fail. Among them was Mr. Curtis.

“So it seems that with all your worrying and economy, you were not able to keep your father from failing!” said Mrs. T— to her niece.

“No, aunt, we did not expect to be able to do that.”

“Then your wisest course would have been to enjoy life while you could. Here you have been denying yourselves all winter to no purpose!”

“But, as mother says, we have the satisfaction of feeling that since father has been pressed for money, we have not cause him one needless expenditure!” and she looked radiantly happy.

“Will you permit me, Miss T—, to ask you a direct question?” Inquired Mr. R—, , of that young lady, as they found themselves left alone in one of the parlors.

“Certainly,” was the gracious reply, “ask me any question you like, since I can use the privilege of replying to it or not, just as I happen to be in the vein!”

“But I hope you will deign to answer this one in which I am greatly interested – is Miss Curtis much depressed at her father’s failure?”

The question was different from what Julia had anticipated, but she replied with a laugh –

“Depressed! you should see her! Were I in her place, I confess that I should be plunged into the depths of woe, at the thought of the retrenchments, and the changes that must be made in their style of living; but Sallie is as light-hearted as a bird!”

“Perhaps she does not realize it yet!”

“Oh yes she does; and she has her plans all laid out as clearly as we had to note down the various revolutions on our historical charts at school, and she talks about their moving into a small house, and keeping only one servant, as gayly as if she were planning a pleasure trip! And that is not all, she says she has been reviewing her studies with a view of teaching, so that they can thus continue her little sisters at the expensive schools they are attending. Just think of her stooping to become a teacher, isn’t it absurd?”

“I confess, I should prefer seeing her occupy a different position,” said Mr. R—-, with emphasis.

As long as her father lives he ought to be able to support her, and I told her that if I were in her place, I would reserve that degradation for some greater emergency; but she said she would rather prepare herself, by her own exertions, for any emergency.”

“I suppose they see no company now?”

“Oh yes, just the same as usual.”

Mr. R—- called on Sallie that evening, and to his delight found her alone. He was really relieved at seeing no cloud on her young face but instead, such a joyous expression as only springs from a happy heart.

In a manner not to be misunderstood he told her how glad he felt at seeing her thus, and she answered frankly –

“Why should I not be happy? My father is reduced, but he can never be dishonored! Perfect integrity and uprightness have characterized all his dealings, and if he has been unfortunate, the way in which he bears up under it makes me more proud of him than ever!” and tears filled her eyes as she spoke. “I don’t know much about business,” she added with a smile, “but I am told that all my father’s liabilities are to be met, so that no one else is to suffer through his failure.”

“But do you not shrink from the changes that must take place?”

Sallie wondered to herself why it was that she felt so perfectly free with Mr. R—, it seemed as if they had known each other all their lives as she answered -,

“Oh no, there is nothing very hard in that! Cousin Julia has been trying to convince me that I ought to be very wretched, but she did not succeed in her mission.”

There was a pause, and then the conversation renewed by Mr. R—-, but we are not going to tell the reader what he first said, though all the light that he can get upon the subject from the remarks that follow, he is welcome to. Mr. R—- spoke for about ten minutes in an earnest tone. Sallie, at first, looked down, and then raised her eyes to his face with an inquiring glance. At length she said —

“Had you spoken so, to me, half an hour ago, I should have supposed you ignorant of the change in our circumstances; but you know all.”

“I do!” was the answer, and he went on to tell Sallie of the effect that knowledge had produced upon him, and again the conversation was too earnest and tool low for our ears. At last he seemed to be urging her to reply, and if we give her answer, just as it fell from her cherry lips, we shall have to record the very trite words, “ask father!”

“Are you aware , sir, of my failure!” inquired Mr. Curtis, in answer to something Mr. R—- said to him next morning in his counting-room. “My daughter is now penniless!”

“I know all that,” was the reply; “but she is a fortune in herself!”

“That is most true; and, since you can appreciate her, take her, and may God bless you in proportion as you make her happy!”

“Thank you for the precious gift!” said Mr. R—–, much affected; “and now, sir, may I talk a little about business?”

The merchant bowed.

“I have lately received, from a relative, an overlooked-for gift of thirty thousand dollars, upon condition that I will go into some kind of business. I have been puzzled to know how to invest it, for, of business matters, I am sorry to say, I am most profoundly ignorant. You have experience and patience to bear with my want of knowledge; now, are you willing to consider my ready cash equal to your practical information, and so take me as a partner?”

The business arrangement being satisfactorily concluded, Mr. R— was urgent to have the wedding take place as soon as possible.

“Why didn’t you offer him the use of your money before, it might have saved his failure?” ask a friend of Mr. R—.

“I did long to do so, but was afraid to have the girl I loved feel that she was under obligations to me! I never could have hoped to win her affections then!”

“Pshaw! that would have been the very way to get her!”

When Mrs. T— and other friends were offering their congratulations to the blushing Sallie, her husband said —

“By the way, aunt, did I ever tell you what caused me to fall in love with your niece?”

“Her own loveliness, of course, drew our your love!”

“No such thing! it was her old straw bonnet!”

“Why, aunt, you told me, I don’t know how many times, that my old bonnet would prevent my ever marrying!”

“How had that fright of a hat anything to do with your admiration?”

“Why, you see, I wanted a companion in a wife; not a mere doll to please my fancy by her pretty face and costly dress; so I said to myself, ‘a girl who can reason thus correctly about economy, and who has independence enough to carry out that reasoning by wearing an old bonnet, has a mind above the ordinary herd, and powers of which any man might be proud?’”

Published in: on March 1, 2015 at 1:01 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Seaside, Gardening, Resort and Other Shape Straw Hats

Now that I’ve talked about Fashion Straw Hats, there will of course be people saying “but what about this one”. One word:

Context.

Yes, there were other shape hats…. They all have their place. It is very important to understand the context of these other shapes before you wear one.

Harpers Monthly June 1850Hat shapes are time sensitive, such as the promenade hats to the left from June of 1850, age sensitive, such as hats for youth, year sensitive, such as hats from late in the war, and situation sensitive.

Garden Hats:

longislandmuseum.pastperfect-online.com

William Sidney Mount’s Returning from the Orchard shows a good example of a garden hat. She wears a hat with a shallow crown and a round, full brim.

Straw Garden hat clip 2

Lily Martin Spencer gives us a very nice look at a garden hat in her painting The Artist and Her Family at a Fourth of July Picnic, ca1864. On the right, you can see the hat held just behind the woman in pink. It is an almost circular hat, though still an oval crown, with a wide brim.

To give us even more perspective on the garden hat, take a look at this story snip-it:

Straw Garden hat clip 1

Seaside and Resorts:

One of the first things you will notice when looking at seaside/resort images is that the range of millinery is in addition to rather than instead of. We see round, wide brim hats in addition to fashionable hats, in addition to bonnets. This 1859, Harper’s Weekly image demonstrates this.

Seaside hats from Charles Wynne NichollsNotice – Charles Wynne Nicolls paints several of his seaside women with hats that don’t fit the norm we see seaside. This is important to note because these pieces were painted on the other side of the pond in England. These were also painted late or just after our Civil War eras. A further detail of how important context is.

Reform Dress Hats: 

The American ladies’ new costume. (1851)

Many 1840s – 1860s illustrations of reform dress show a wide brim, shallow crown hat as part of the attire. This shape of hat was seen a practical, shading the face and eyes from the sun.

More coming. I just wanted to get this much up….

Published in: on February 22, 2015 at 2:52 pm  Comments (1)  

About Mourning Bonnets

The question of mourning bonnets came up twice this week. ???????????????????????????????

In the past couple years, I have been asked to make mourning bonnets for times of real mourning, for a family member who has just passed or who is expected to pass soon. The requests were each uniquely genuine and heartfelt in their own ways. I was honored to be asked to make such a meaningful piece for such a sorrowful occasion.

Making these pieces was very important to me. I did not know the deceased at all. Nor, did I know the wearers well at all. But, I have lost many beloved family members. I have mourned in both centuries. I know what it is like to put on the external symbols of mourning so prominent in the nineteenth century and so lacking in the twenty-first.

To me, these pieces are incredibly meaningful, personal and heavy.

I have decided not to make mourning millinery for faux mourning or mourning impressions. I feel, for me, this will lessen the importance of when I make real mourning pieces. I feel I need to be able to put the full importance each of those pieces.

I will consider making “light mourning” or “half mourning” pieces as those are notably under-interpreted and I think I can approach them from the artistic and historic directions.

Thank you for understanding,

Anna

 

 

For a view on interpreted mourning, please take a moment to read Beth Connolly’s blog post. She has very good insight on the weight of such an impression.

For additional information on mourning attire, please see Garments of Mourning.

(*Note about the image. I have discovered that a post is more likely to be read if there is an image attached.)

 

Published in: on February 20, 2015 at 4:51 pm  Comments (1)  

Regency Shape

imageimage

I have long loved the shape of these bonnets. I have no idea why.

 

You’ll notice these two have similar shapes with two very different constructions. The one with the scallops has the brim shape develop from arcs coming off the crown. The one with the black ribbon gets its brim shape with arcs that circle the brim.

I tried the first method.

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image

I am not entirely happy with how it turned out.

I tried and tried to get that transition from the crown to the brim right with that little flare up.

The straw was determined to go straight, flat, flareless. It is a bit more like this illustration. A bit.

As a result, the crown looks like it is sitting at an odd angle. It is very tempting to try to take that crown off and re-position it. On problem. Every single one of those rows is layered into the crown. Not going to happen.

So, half a hank of Italian plait later… here it is.

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Published in: on February 17, 2015 at 10:30 am  Leave a Comment  

Veil Finding –

I think this is a white veil.

It is also over on Etsy from the same seller. 19″x41″

Published in: on February 15, 2015 at 8:25 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Veil Finding – Not a Doll Shawl

This might be my favorite “not a…” yet.

It is currently over on Etsy.

Published in: on February 15, 2015 at 8:19 pm  Comments (1)  
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Fanchons for 1865

There are only two Fanchon bonnets left in my Etsy store.

Here are a few finishing ideas.

image