This drawn bonnet was found at an estate sale in Perry, NY, by a friend of my mom’s. Holding it in hand, it is surprisingly solid with a bit of weight compared to the straw bonnets I usually handle.
The top of the crown has a low rise to the brim with a bit of curve that may be original or from age. The front edge of the brim has a hint of the curve found in “spoon bonnets.” From the front, the brim edge is more of a vertical oval currently. Though, the front wires feel as though it spend some time stored on one side.
The construction is a basic wire & buckram foundation with shot brown silk drawn over cane. Feeling along the brim, I suspect wire supports running front to back bent or collapsed inside. (I suddenly wish I could xray a bonnet like this some time.) This may be responsible for the dip in the area of the front most cane and flounce.
One tie remains. The matching satin ribbon is 2 1/2″ wide.
The crown tip is an oval. It is slightly concaved in the photo. I was able to reshape it after taking the photo. The crown tip foundation was originally shaped. At the base of the crown tip is a self fabric bow with a gathered dot-like center.
Detail of cane channels and flounces.Detail of ribbon attached to cheektab Detail of ribbon attached to cheektab Detail of bavolet interior Detail of bavolet interior
With a mix of feelings from Finally to Frustration, can now share with you the series of patchwork pin cushions I’ve been working on.
I started these before falling, smashing my knees and hands. The pile of mini-pillows sat here taunting me for weeks. Slowly, I tried to embroider them. Each time, my hand would yell at me. I ended up doing one or two every couple evenings. Yesterday, I finished up the last of the batch. (The finally part.) Then, last night, my thumb yelled at me. (The frustration part.)
Initially, I planned an assortment of goodies for the holiday season, including patchwork pin cushion of various shapes, patchwork ornaments, and some millinery. The millinery can not happen at this point as my hands definitely can not sew the straw yet, nor the quilting for winter hoods. I still hope to be able to make a few more things, but I’m not sure. (As I write this, I am realizing I need to make a few animal pin cushions or pen wipers for December and a Regency ballgown for New Year’s somehow🤔)
Saturday morning, I had the pleasure of being the opening speaker at GCVM’s Fall Fashion and Textile Symposium, presenting Unveiling Rural Milliners, a look at small town milliners and their millinery shops.
Accompanying my talk, I shared a sampling of extant bonnets and bonnet blocks from my collection, including a unique 1880s squash bonnet.
The second presentation by Tricia Noel of the Yates County Historical Society, looked at the Public Universal Friend and their clothing in the late 18th century.
Following lunch, Wilma Townsend, of the Ontario County Historical Society, shared collection pieces illustrating the textiles produced and purchased in Ontario County.
The final speaker was Nicole Rudolph, looking at the construction of 19th-century shoes. Nicole’s very informative presentation was accompanied by the opportunity to examine in hand several original shoes and boots, including a waterproofing insole that I was captivated with because I think it be warm and comfortable. (I also think it is molded pasteboard inside peeking the FanU side of my brain.)
I was excited when someone asked if I was going to share more about the milliners’ stories I included in my presentation. I already scheduled a few of the stories I gathered on Patreon I. The coming weeks. I was also toying with the idea of turning the stories into mini-podcasts. Being asked about the stories, I am going to move forward with that. (I have yet to decide which platform to put those on.)
I talked with a few local(ish) people who were interested in me speaking at their organizations/sites. This is absolutely something I would like to explore further and welcome inquiries. ( I will admit, I am more comfortable with spring through fall as winter driving makes me very anxious.)
I also walked away with some homework of my own. I had a few questions I need to look further into, including the profit margin milliners saw and the names of straw varieties used for millinery. I plan to develop a video presentation focusing on exploring millinery billheads and one or a series looking at specific images/photos.
Listening to Wilma’s presentation, I found my mind churning up an idea around “How was it made”, hopefully a safe spin on the popular cable show from some years back. I could see a whole day program looking at how different textile & fashion materials were made. Imaging a half hour on a myriad of focused topics: MOP buttons, gutta percha, ribbon, tape, straw foundations, buckram and other stiff foundations, beads (glass blowing), etc..
Brandon Brooks announcement the Spring Symposium will be a 2 day event in April, mentioning new research from graduate students.
A very quick note for attendees at GCVM’s Fall Fashion and Textile Symposium.
Thank you to everyone who attended both in-person and virtually. I invite you to take a closer look at many of the images in my presentation, Unveiling Rural Milliners, in my Virtual Gallery of millinery images.
I will try to address questions in the coming days. Please send additional questions and feedback with this simple Google form:
Create your own Victorian-inspired holiday ornaments with these three unique sets of patchwork directions, blending Fanciful Utility techniques and classic quilting methods. Each project draws from original Victorian fancy work, inviting you into a calming, mindful process as you work with fabric remnants to craft intricate designs. These small, therapeutic projects are perfect for holiday crafting or any time you want a peaceful creative break.
I was planning to release these this weekend after the Symposium I am speaking at. But, when I woke up this morning, I realized some people could use a little project to calm the mind now.
This series has 3 different sets;
Fanciful Utility Holiday Ornaments – This set uses Fanciful Utility techniques to create ornaments working fabric over a paper or pasteboard foundation. There are 5 different ornaments in this mini-publication.
Fanciful Utility Holiday Patchwork Ornaments – This set combines Fanciful Utility techniques with traditional quilt piecing. There are 6 different patchwork ornaments in this mini-publication.
Fanciful Utility Holiday Pieced Stars Ornaments – This set adapts traditional English paper piecing techniques with a FanU flair. There are 5 different patchwork ornaments in this mini-publication.
Note: I developed these in the past couple weeks while I have not been able to sew. I greatly appreciate my sample stitchers, Eileen and Geri, as well as sanity checker Marna.
If you want to adventure into fancy patchwork, aka crazy quilt, embroidery, consider Patchwork Whimsy: A Victorian Stitch Guide. This collection of decorative stitches could pair nicely with either of the patchwork ornaments above.
If you know me in person or have been following me for a while, you likely know I am stubborn, I can’t stand not doing something, and I will push myself when I really should be resting. To make a long story short, I fell on my way into work on Wednesday, turning my ankle, smashing my knees, and jamming my hands/wrists. I’ve attempted to ice, elevate, rest, all those things. I find I can not sew, at least not the way I hyper-focus sew. As such, I have a pile of patchwork pincushions waiting for their embroidery, sitting here mocking me.
I decided if I can’t sew them, I can write about sewing them. Thus, a new mini-publication, primarily written and layed out with my left hand and small fingers.
Patchwork Whimsy: A Victorian Stitch Guide pulls from three late nineteenth century fancy work manuals with the intent to inspire your fancy patchwork, what we more commonly call “crazy quilts” now. It is 22 pages, with many illustrations of stitches and sample projects (not directions for doing the projects.) I did include my patchwork cat template because I put it on the cover.
Patchwork Whimsy is in the Digital Whimsy section of my Etsy shop for only $1.58.
I admit, I am hoping to sell a bunch of these because I’ve lost several days of sewing in a season where shop sales are already frighteningly low.
I decided to revive my Fichu pattern in the Digital Whimsy section of my Etsy shop. Please keep in mind this is a pattern I drafted 15ish years ago by hand. Many people absolutely Loved it. A few found it to be not professional enough being drawn by hand.
Whether for a ball or a summer day, a fichu is a lovely accessory. From light and airy to soft with hints of color, fashionable fichus were worn with day wear as well as evening and dinner wear. This pattern will guide you in making a fashionable fichu extending the versatility of your Civil War era or antebellum, 1850s wardrobe. With the four popular shapes of the era included in this pattern along with the many variations of embellishment described in the pattern directions booklet, you can make an almost endless variety of era accurate fichus.
My year has been focused on other things. I think the last time I entered only 2 was in Kindergarten. Maybe next year I will make up for it.
The Bergère hat was inspired by an original in the MET collection (pictured.) This was my personal challenge project for the year. The original uses many different types of straw braid in different colors and shades. One braid has blue silk worked through it. I will eventually figure that out. I am going to try weaving silk ribbon through wider plait first. My hat is made from straw plait in my scrap bag. The bag is several years worth of end cuts. This hat uses natural straw from 6 different hanks if I recall correctly, an artisan plait, copper, walnut, green, and a very small length of ivory plait. This will be going on my wall. I have scraps set aside for another hat in grey and pink tones.
The embroidered globes were my Eclipse Festival project in April. I did not expect a ribbon for these. They use only an outline stitch and knots. They were much harder than I thought they would be. Stitching on a sphere is far different from on a single fabric on a hoop or even on a mostly soft surface, like when I embroider the binding of a sewing case. This was silk over linen over wool. Going over the seam areas meant having to skim the silk or catching and getting stuck in 8 layers. I did bleed on the celestial one when I was nearly done. Luckily, I was able to get it out.
As part of restructuring my shop for the current economy, I added all of the individual In Detail publications to the Digital Whimsy section. This is an excellent way to learn about original pieces of fancy work. Each volume (except the blue ribbon case) contains directions for making your own.
The compilation edition: Fanciful Utility In Detail is still available as well.
If you’ve wondered what In Detail publications look like inside, here is a peek.
Each one is a little different based on the original piece of fancy work featured. I share numerous up close photos while describing the materials and construction in detail. Thus the name. Most have directions for making your own piece with easy to follow directions using accurate techniques. Page lengths vary, some being multiple pdfs to download.
If I Had My Own Blue Box: 