New Publications – Pocket Collections

I wrapped up my Pocket of the Month series at the end of 2024. For the past couple months, I’ve been toying with the idea of combining them into a collection in a single PDF. Then, I stumbled across a Victorian era catalog packed full of embroidery patterns. I just couldn’t resist playing with these patterns. I quickly found myself transforming them into whimsical pocket designs. This was just the right nudge to put the Pocket of the Month collection together.

I have two collections of pocket designs now available for you. I settled on $5 for each publication. Changed my mind. Each collection is in the Digital Whimsy section for $2.58. (Patreon patrons – You have access to the original Pocket of the Month files and both collections in Patreon.)

All pocket designs are laid out in 11″x17″ format. You can print them on a single 11″x17″ paper or tile print them on 8.5″x11″ paper or water soluble stabilizer. 

I invite you to use your favorite embroidery techniques from any century to bring these designs to life. Adjust, adapt, or embellish as you need. I would love to see you share your finished pocket!

Pocket of the Month Collection

This collection includes 21 of the original Pocket of the Month designs, including hand embroidery and quilting designs. Most of the designs are drawn directly from period sources such as Godey’s Lady’s Book, Peterson’s Magazine, and needlework guides. I carefully adapted these motifs to suit pocket designs, ensuring they retained their historical essence. Other designs are entirely my own, including a couple purely modern, whimsical designs. 

Embroidered Pockets Collection

This collection includes 16 hand embroidery designs drawing from Briggs & Co.’s Patent Transferring Papers, ca 1880. This series of designs combines the style of the Victorian era and the practicality of the Georgian era pocket. It is very much a mixing of historical eras for whimsical fun. It is not meant to be purely true to either particular era.

Published in: on February 24, 2025 at 8:05 am  Leave a Comment  

New Publications Coming

Patreon Patrons – Please check Patreon.  I need your help naming one of the publications!

Before anyone gets too excited, this is not a new book, nor a new workbook. This is a fun little something. No new book quite yet.

Published in: on February 22, 2025 at 6:02 pm  Leave a Comment  

Birthday Bear

I am sharing a sentimental mini-pattern over on Don’t Paint the Cat.

Published in: on February 20, 2025 at 6:39 pm  Leave a Comment  

Birthday Week Sale

This whole week

Save 25% on

All E-books & Patterns

Including: To Net, or Not to NetPaisley,  Plaid, & Purled – From Field to FashionVictorian Fancy Work In Detail – Winter Hood Workbooks – Straw Bonnet Workbook – Winter Hood Patterns

Published in: on February 15, 2025 at 11:37 am  Leave a Comment  

New Workbags or Reticles

This past weekend & week, I made straw basket workbags, or reticles. I love how these bags combine straw sewing and Fanciful Utility. I also love how silk can look against straw.

The first bag is a gold, green, and copper stripe silk. This straw base is just over 3″ wide with a subtle taper and a bit of wobble. The bag open to a moderate width, with a brown cotton lining and a last minute pocket added.

The second bag is an icy blue silk embroidered with large white flowers. I had just enough of this silk to make this bag. The base is nearly 4″ in diameter with a slight taper. The bag is lined in white cotton. It opens quite wide.

I also made 2 straw bottoms for those who want to Build Your Own Bag. These are both just over 3″ in diameter.  You can make a silk bag in your desired method. Then, tack it into the straw base.

Published in: on February 15, 2025 at 11:29 am  Leave a Comment  

Mindful Stitching

Earlier this week, I had a truly calm moment, one in which I was truly focused on the task in hand and nothing else; not the past, not the future, not the world beyond my immediate space. I felt my mind relax, my muscles relax. It was lovely.

It may surprise you to know it wasn’t a moment with needle & thread in hand. Nope. This was a moment working at a table saw, cutting down pieces of wood into usable strips. Being a new tool for me, one with a sharp blade moving fast, I shifted all of my attention to cutting – examining each piece, placing it along the fence, guiding it, using the pushing tool to ease it past the blade – and repeat.

The calm I found was much needed.

This prompted me to think about the other tasks or activities that give me the same sense of calm. For me, two that come to mind involve stitching.

First is the spiral quilting I use for my witch hat brims. Working my spiral of stitches in from the outer edge, each row is done by eye with a little visual guidance from the machine.

I find I need to be in the moment, to rid my mind of all other thoughts as I spiral around the brim. Any distraction, be it thought or sound, can cause a slight verring in or out, widening or narrowing the spiral path. I enjoy this process so much, I’ve imagined other projects I could quilt spirals into: sunhats, table mats, pillow tops, etc. (I acknowledge some/many would not consider this mindful stitching as it uses a machine rather than hand sewing. 90+% of my sewing is by hand. So, I grant myself permission to include this for me.)

Second is the decorative embroidery I use for patchwork pin cushions and needle-pages for
sewing cases or needle-books. This mindful stitching, for me, is less about keeping distracting thoughts at bay and more about excess thoughts slipping away. On needle-pages, my focus is on stitch spacing and following the line of the page – rhythm, positive and negative space, balance. For patchwork, I get to play with color, texture, pattern, space…. there are nearly no rules.

What sewing activities or other activities do you find are mindful or a good way to calm your mind?


Definitions & Technicalities:

Mindful sewing or mindful stitching is a type of process art where you are fully present in the process of stitching without an intent for the end result. This is not the same as the mediation technique of mindfulness. According to the APA, mindfulness “is an awareness of one’s internal states and surroundings.” It is a technique of being aware of what is happening with your mind, body, and/or surroundings in the present moment without judgement. I need to note: Technically, what I am talking about isn’t truly mindful stitching (or mindful task) because I do have an end result in mind.

Published in: on February 6, 2025 at 9:15 am  Leave a Comment  

Patrons: Birthday Bears

Patrons, check Patreon.

Published in: on February 5, 2025 at 6:02 pm  Leave a Comment  

First Straw Hats of 2025

The first hats of 2025 are finally available!

I will be releasing millinery,  both hats and bonnets, in groups this year. My goal is to offer new batches of hats and bonnets twice a month, most likely on Saturdays or Sundays, with the occasional adjustment due to my work and program scheduling.  Each batch of new millinery will be announced here, on WordPress first. You can subscribe to my blog to receive new posts and new millinery via email or WordPress alerts.

The first hats of the year are all Bergère hats appropriate for the 18th Century. Each of these hats are made with a finer 5-6mm plait, with 4mm plait used for the braid. The brims are lightly wired for reshaping if desired. Shop

One of the reasons for this change is space. The space I photograph hats and bonnets in is the same space I use for repairing damaged originals. (This is where the light and turn tablenis.) I need to minimize how often I move the original pieces. Another reason is I need to find some balance for my hands. Despite resting my hands for several months, I find they are not as strong as I would like and the occasional vulgar hissing escapes when sharp pain shoots through. I am hoping a variety of sewing and breaks for writing will help. All this said, it is going to take a bit of self control to hold on to some of the pieces for the bi-monthly releases.

You will notice a second change I am trying for this year. To meet Etsy’s recommendations and hopefully increase search visibility,  shipping will be $6 for the vast majority of items, both millinery and sewing cases. I am absorbing the true cost of Priority Mail and insurance, which is usually $14-$19 for hats & bonnets or $10-15 for sewing cases. I am not sure how well this will work in terms of dollars, but it should stop the alerts about my shipping being too high.

One final note – I do not know what is going to happen with the price of straw. Hanks already doubled in price compared to when I first started buying them. At the same time, the variety has significantly decreased with some of my favorites disappearing. I am nearly out of the “standard” 8mm width plait. I do have a small stash of fine and ultra-fine straw (what I would use for doll items) and a very limited amount of artisan plaits. I am going to do as much as I can with what I can get my hands on, for as long as I can. A lot will be determined by budget and what my hands can do.

Published in: on February 1, 2025 at 12:39 pm  Leave a Comment  

Planning for 1776

It has been a full month since I posted about creating an ensemble for the 250th. Since then, I have found I have endless questions. I am questioning fabrics, fibers, fit, fashion, seam details, and even myself.

I forgot what it was like to start a new time period. While, this technically is not a new time period for me, it feels like it is because my mindset is different than it was nearly 30 years ago when I last dressed for this era. (I am floored I can say nearly 30 years ago.)

One of my big hurdles is direction. I usually have a defined purpose or roll I develop a set of clothing for. In this case, all I have is “I know I will regret having it if I don’t have it.” I find this is hard for me. I need a vision, an end goal to focus on. That doesn’t exist yet.

No goal. No drive or motivation.

I am hoping that by the time I get a full set of under layers – new shift, petticoats, stays, stockings. Together, I will have a clearer vision to focus on.

What I have done is dig through my stash to identify materials that can be used for this project.

You may notice the pallette is pretty blaaaaaa bland. Or, maybe I am just seeing it that way because of what I said above

Here is what I have, some with purpose:

  • 3 yards of 3.7oz white linen – new shift
  • 5 yards of 5.3oz white linen – petticoats
  • 7+yards of heavy weight light grey linen/cotton blend (45″wide) – petticoats (or gown) (I have this weird desire to make a petticoat and jacket out of this and paint it.)
  • Misc linen of different med-heavy weights – stays
  • Dress length of pale green windowpane check wool – maybe gown
  • Pink print on heavy cotton upholstery-esque OSV reproduction  – can I use this for stays? Pretty
  • Reproduction OSV print on heavy cotton upholstery-esque – trade
  • Off white cashmere/wool – not sure why I pulled this out
  • 2 yards small scale plaid I thought was wool but turns out to be a cotton shirting – apron or trade
  • Cotton voile – caps

Somewhere in my stash (hoping the big totes) should be a blue on white larger scale floral border print. That may be the right fabric for a gown that will motivate me.

Published in: on January 25, 2025 at 10:25 am  Leave a Comment  

January Sewing Cases

(I thought I posted this last week but find I did not.)

One of my goals this year is to make and offer more sewing cases. In the years immediately following the release of Fanciful Utility, I was making an assortment of sewing cases, boxes, and accessories regularly.  When I started focusing on straw millinery, I began neglecting this branch of interest. I found going back and forth between the two types of sewing difficult and managing the very different materials was messy. Now, I am hoping rotating between sewing straw and sewing fabric will give my hands a break. (And I will figure out the organized mess.)

Anyway. I created a sewing case each week/weekend this month. Each is made with silk interiors and upcycled leather exteriors. They are bound with cotton sateen ribbon. Two have pasteboard boxes. Two have “book” style pincushions with layers of wool and cotton inside. The wool needle pages are pinked on my antique pinking machines and lightly embroidered. 

I tried to price these sewing cases at a point that was affordable. Each one took 9-11 hours to make, working by hand.

 
 
 
 

You will notice three of these are photographed in a different spot in my home. This is because I have an original straw bonnet set up in my regular photo space. I need the bright light as I very slowly stitch the fractured straw back together.

Published in: on January 25, 2025 at 9:58 am  Leave a Comment