“My Day” Challenge!!!

I am currently reading “‘Another Domestic Beast of Burden’: New England Farm Women’s Work and Well-Being in the 19th Century“. The author, Linda Borish, brings together several descriptions of farm women’s daily life and chores. From kindling a fire to laying soot on raspberries to pounding potatoes for the hogs, she gives us a hint of what went into a woman’s day in the first half of the 19th century.

My challenge to each of my friends and readers who are interpreters, reenactors or just want a writing challenge….

From the mindset of a woman you interpret, write, in detail, what your day would have been from the time you wake to the time you sleep again.

I will work on my response and share below. Either add your day in the comments below or give us a link to it.

Published in: on May 15, 2014 at 11:45 am  Leave a Comment  

Readings for Rural Life

From Moore’s Rural New-Yorker in Rochester, NY

 

May 14th, 1864

Woman’s Dress

Considerable has been said on this subject by your correspondents and exchanges, and I have hitherto been silent, hoping that out of so much argument might come some practical reform.

The equestrian dress was a bold dah, in which it advocates showed their independence; and why may not they and others throw aside Fashion’s demand and make as decisive a move in the right direction, and defend it as persistently? They claimed to have the “silent consent,” if not the direct approval of the other sex, and while I can not believe that fathers, brothers, husbands, or true friends could regard with pleasure, or event indifference, one for whom they cherished either affection or respect, in such a costume and position, they still have an interest in whatever is for our physical or moral benefit, and, where both can be combined, will give us their hearty support without hesitation. If to this any demure, shall we not find their true motives unworthy of our attention and their relations to us such as shall not entitle them our acquiescence?

It seems to be acknowledged by all that our mode of dress is imperfect in two particulars, – its unequal distribution of warmth over the body and limbs, – and its manner of adjustment about the waist.

Men have their feet, legs, and arms well covered; and while high-necked, close-sleeved dresses are an improvement in our clothing, still, the low bands and short sleeves of our undergarments leave a want they do not experience. Loose skirts might, with propriety, it seems to me, be replaced by more comfortable and just as becoming drawers and “knicker-bockers,” beneath dress, balmoral, and if you will, crinoline. Striped balmorals and stockings take the place of so long filled by white; and why not “knickerbockers” be made of “Highland plaid,” or something similar, as well, with our gaiters enough higher to meet them and protect our ankles, and laced in front! India-rubber sides are too cold. Just about the waist, where there should be the least pressure, is the only place our clothing is close, and if anyone objects to looser belts and ladies’ suspenders, because we shall not look quite as trim and tidy, tell them not to say anything until “Garibaldis” are forgotten. Grace Glenn. Michigan, 1864.

About “Cheap” Sewing Machines.

Eds. Rural New-Yorker: – In answer to an inquiry of “A Rural Reader of Fairfield, O.,” in regard to sewing machines, I wish to say that the Union Ten Dollar Sewing Machine has been  (not used) in my house for the last year, and that instead of being a “Union,” it is a Disunion machine from the following facts: – 1st it will not unite cloth firmly together, but will disunite the cloth by friction in passing between the rough cogwheels. 2d, it will disunite the needle, (separating it in two parts,) every half minute; and, finally, the different parts of the this is easily disunited, the shafts upon which the wheels are placed being a round wire and the wheels fitted loosely to it, not being keyed, allows them to slip entirely from the shaft; and the same is true as regards the crank. It is the opinion of those competent to judge, that it is not manufactured for the good of the people but to smouge them out of four dollars each machine, which has been done to a great extent. Now, if your reader of Fairfield wishes to pay a dear price for wit, let him order a half dozen of “[sic] Clark, Dayton, Maine,” but her can get with at my expense much cheaper; for if he wishes I will send him one free, except express charges, and be glad of the chance; for I ordered a half dozen, and can neither sell, lose, or give them away here, though my friends generally take anything that is given to them.

Yours, for the good of the public, D. Allen. Byron, Wis., April 25, 1864.

Published in: on May 14, 2014 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment  
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A Year in Millinery Fashion – 1864

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This bonnet has a front of drawn green silk. The graceful soft crown is of white silk. The trimming consists of a tuft of meadow grass and field flowers, also loops of white silk placed directly over the crown. The inside trimmings is of white and black lace and field flowers. (Godey’s, May 1864)

“Don’t Hack Your Sleeve”

While I patiently wait for the photos of this weekend to come out of my sister’s camera, I’ll share with you the story of the sleeve. While this sleeve did not go well in the making process, I am okay with the end result.

I knew I didn’t want another open sleeve as that is what I used for both green sheer and semi-sheer dresses from last year. I wanted something with shape. Looking at this inspiration sleeve,

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this is what I came up with: ???????????????????

After the sketch, I added a bias cut, double gathered ‘puff’ to the top. I liked the idea of the extra drop before the fullness.

In the drafting, I wanted to make sure I had a good length and a nice curve into the enlarged elbow. I thought this is what I had. It looked pretty good.

2014-04-30 19.27.03-1Well, not so much…

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Full, yes. But, way too long. (do ignore the corset-less state.) So, I took off the bottom sleeve. Cut 2 inches off. Re-gathered. Re-attached. Oh, I also rotated the sleeve, moving the gathered fullness towards the back and added some trim.

Two inches should have worked. Right? …… Wrong. It was still too long:

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Oddly, it actually looks longer. Doesn’t it?

To make matters worse…. there was this screaming blue horizontal stripe that was driving me crazy. (again, please ignore the corset-less, dress over the clothes state.)

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So, what do I do? What any over-tired, over-hungry, cranky person would do…. I got out the scissors and hacked off the lower part of the sleeves. One big crescent shape. Yeap. And the moment I did, I knew I did bad.

I lack photos of the hacking and the hacked state. I decided it  was time to put the dress down and go eat something.

After a few moments away, the sleeves told me they were going to be an open sleeve after all; they were even going to make use of the odd, dipping V in the opening created from the hacking. As such,  I finished off the edges and trimmed away… down the outside of the sleeve and around the new opening. I added a second vertical piece trying to play with the curve and down play that blue line. In the end, I am okay with how it came out.

2014-05-11 09.14.00-1At one point, I thought I would use this sleeve for the show, then make a new one more like the sleeve on Lily’s dress, just longer (these are ‘matching’ adult vs teen dress comparisons). But, after wearing it on Sunday, finding it comfortable, I may just leave it as is. We’ll see what the other photos say.

Published in: on May 11, 2014 at 8:00 pm  Comments (1)  

Readings for Rural Life

From Moore’s Rural New-Yorker in Rochester, NY

May 7th, 1864

Two Kinds of Women

Perhaps the secret of Catherine’s fascination lay in those strange eyes of hers, which seemed to wake in all who came near her a trembling and a stir as of wings, a sudden yearning for forgotten good or for noble aims. Few professed  to lover her, fewer still to admire her; but they came to her when they were perplexed for counsel, when they were sorrowful for comfort. Instead of making love to her, they loved her; instead of talking to her of the idle things of the world, they were silent, and thought of heaven. Such a woman made a man forget that she was woman and he man. He remembered only that souls answereth out the hidden things of the spirit. Such a woman was not likely to have many lovers. The wicked inspire passion more easily than the good. It is they who are the most hotly loved, the most madly suffered for. It is they who make men easy dupes to their deceit, and victims to the perjury. They accept hearts as they would bonbons; they trouble a man’s peace as idly as they would throw a stone into a pool; they stir up a devil within him, and show him the very depths of anguish. Happy for their victims if they, do not leave desolated homes, seething madness, and death in their track. Thrice happy is he who, escaping from the net of such a one, even through great bitterness and suffering, shall shake himself from the bonds like Samson, and recover his strength. It is useless to rage against such a woman. They never understand what they have done, what they are doing, nor what they will yet live to do. Becky Sharp is the type of them all, and she thought herself clever to the end.

 

Published in: on May 7, 2014 at 6:06 am  Leave a Comment  
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FanU Patriotic Swap

This last swap of the season seemed to fly by. These are the fabrics of the Patriotic Swap, the fun Bonus swap.
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Don’t these designs look fun?!

Published in: on May 6, 2014 at 4:11 pm  Comments (4)  

A Year in Millinery Fashion – 1864

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Spring bonnet of white crepe, trimmed with a fanchon of bright plaid velvet and chenille tassels. The cape is of plaid velvet, ornamented by chenille cord and tassels. A long white
plume curls over the front of the bonnet. The inside trimmings is composed of Scotch thistles and heather. (Godey’s, May 1864)

Bonnets are very much more becoming in shape that formerly. They are very close to the face at the sides, but not nearly so high at the top, and slightly flattened at the forehead. The trimming is place at the side or on the crown near the top. If flowers are used, it is generally a large one, such as an iris, or water-lily, and the leaves are left to fall gracefully over the crown. If a single rose, either pink or yellow is used, with one spray of leaves; then, at the side of the flower, there is a bow of ribbon, not the ordinary bow, but a collection of loops standing upright and arranged carelessly; from these loops an end of ribbon is carried across the crown, and finished off at the curtain with a smaller rose, or bouquet of flowers, then at the top of the crown. (Peterson’s, May 1864)

Aunt Betsey on Men’s view of Women’s Work

Moore’s Rural New-Yorker

July 29th, 1861

 

Letter from Aunt Betsey.

The man that’s telling about his wife scolding on Mondays, is in a bid “pickle,” to be sure. I’d just like to be lookin’ in at the kitchen window next time his “A.” washes, and see how things do go on, for if he’s as much of a saint as a body would think from hearing his side of the question, he really ought to be translated away from all that “domestic discord and discontent.” As for his wife, she must be a dreadful cross woman, troubled with a drop of black blood in her heart, or something of that kind, if she can’t be satisfied when he tries to help her.

There’s precious few men that have the knack of helping a woman more than they hinder, but it always make [sic] good natured just to have Joshua try to help me, even if he knocked down twenty things where he picked up one, and put the fire all out trying to kindle it, ‘cause he showed his good will, and that’s the main thing. I don’t happen to be constituted so that I think a man isn’t a true man – or as near true as anybody gets to be in this world of mortal failin’s – if he don’t always see when he might do a chore to help his wife; for let folks that has boys to bring up, say what they will, and do what they will, to learn ‘em to do chores in the house, if it isn’t in them to be quick to see, and handy to do, they can’t be made over.

But about that scolding and feeling cross on wash days. There’s quite a number of reasons why a woman may feel out of sorts – some of the “Country Cousin” and the rest have given – and seeing that I’ve had the cares of a family (as you may know by my gray hairs), maybe I’m qualified to give a little bit of advice, too. It isn’t in human natur’ to really like to be sweating over a tub of hot suds and soiled clothes, breathing steam and scrubbing till shoulders ache and fingers are blistered; and the men would only have to try it a few times to find that it brought out some dirty streaks, even in their angelic natures; but when it has to be done, a body must make the best of it, and one way to do this is to begin with that first law, order. Know just what you are going to do, and how you are going to do it, then go ahead. If you do your work alone, get your breakfast and have things go on a near right as they generally do; if you go to snapping, you’ll be likely to get snapped at back again, and that’ll be a load for your heart to carry, a slight heavier than any your hands will find. Pick up things, and sweep your rooms, not as thoroughly as you generally do, if you have not the time, but still so that they’ll look decent, for if you’re naturally tidy, having your rooms look worse than usual will be one thing that’ll fret you. There’s something in your personal appearance, too. It’s all very well to have a wash-dress, but there’s no sort of use in having it torn half off the waist, ripped under the arms, or any such thing. I don’t blame men for not feeling much like helping a woman in such a rig, with her hair hanging down her back, like enough, and her face looking as sweet as could be expected in such a settling our; but if you look as well as you may, and ask as pleasantly as you can (if he don’t think to do it without asking) to have wood and water brought for you, you’ll be likely to get it. Then if you are sensible, you will be very glad to have your liege lord say, “Is there anything more we can do to hell you?” to which you will answer, “No, thank you;” and he will go to do his work and you to yours, neither of you to be disturbed by the other’s petty trials if you are wise enough to keep then to yourselves.

 

Hoping that the afflicted “A.” and his wife may be benefited by confiding their troubles to the public, I am, respectfully, your Aunt Betsey.

 

 

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Published in: on May 4, 2014 at 4:00 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Woman’s Rights and Aunt Betsy

Moore’s Rural New-Yorker

May 11th, 1861

 

Woman’s Rights and Aunt Betsy

Seeing a communication from “O.” to Aunt Betsey, and feeling somewhat interested in the old lady, – of whom, by the way, I have some slight knowledge, – excuse the liberty I have taken of saying a few words on the subject, which shall be done with due deference for her gray hairs.

Our aunt, being country born and bred, has a heart, – a real, loving heart, that feels for others woes. She is ever ready to assist the needy or relieve the distressed, and as she is naturally of a very cheerful disposition, I think something must have happened, which “riled” her more than common, when she spoke of woman’s rights. Often does she gather us about her, and many are the words of wisdom which fall from her lips as she relates her experiences in order that we may profit thereby. She is called a kind, charitable person, and I beg you, “O.,” not to judge her by that conversation. I cannot agree with her, for to me life appears like the April day, all clouds and sunshine, and that “Woman’s Rights” are to guard woman’s home from the storms that oft will cloud the domestic sky, and so to arrange her culinary affairs that the “butter and honey” of forbearance and love, in place of being all used at once, shall be spread so evenly on the bread of everyday life. In such a home, the husband, instead of treading her “rights under his foot,” will feel that his right to cherish and protect her is the dearest one on earth. As for the wood and water, not true man will let his wife bring them in while he sits idle, and when he asks for his shirt, it is not because he knows your dislike to tumbled drawers; and does not his smile amply repay you for your trouble. Yes, indeed, and there’s another of your right, to win that smile, from your liege lord, by kindly deeds and pleasant words, and a true woman will value it more than all the rights of suffrage which can be granted her.

I do not wish to be understood as saying that there are no abused women, for alas, there are many such; but I cannot think “the best of men” will so far, forget their manhood as our aunt declares, – if so, oh shades of Horace, deliver me from such a fate. Better for us, Cousin O., to live the unloved, unloving old maid’s life, than the loving but unloved one of a husband’s slave.

Jennie. Dowittville, N.Y., 1861.

 

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Published in: on May 3, 2014 at 4:00 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Queries for Aunt Betsey

Moore’s Rural New-Yorker

April 13, 1861

Queries for Aunt Betsey

Dear Aunt Betsey: – Will you allow one of the “girls” who hasread what you thing of “Woman’s Rights” to say a few words? I like to look at the bright side. Now, honored Aunt, I know that woman’s home is, in many respects, her “world,” and that there are many things to learn away from boardin’s schools and ‘cademys; but Aunty, do you really think we are all going to get our necks broken when we jump off that “precipice” you told up about? I know you did not exactly say so, but then, )we have no precipices on the prairies,) in all the stories we read about people jumping or falling off them, they are sure to get killed. Do you really think, too, that when we “get married” and “go tagging after a man,” we shall “never see him at home?” Are you sure he never will bring in a pail of water or an armful of wood? Will he never ask if there is anyting he can do to help us? Do you know he will be unable to find his own shirt, if we, (as we ought,) have a place for it and keep it there? Must we always leave the shirts till there are a dozen to mend? Do you think it will “take half an hour to find a needle” every time we want one? Is it imposisble to get along without a “honey moon”? – or, can we not have the “butter and honey” spread all over the bread rather than on one spot? Now, Aunty, I will know there will be a great many “briars and sticks.” But will he never help us over them?

If you are sure all these evils will befall me if I get married, your admonitions will save one of your nieces from a “woman’s fate.” Please tell me, Aunt Betsey.

Respectfully, your niece, O. Princeville, Ill., 1861.

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Published in: on May 2, 2014 at 4:01 pm  Leave a Comment  
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