with many people in a deep freeze and many others planning for winter events, here is a post from a little while back.
Announcing the 2015 Winter Fanciful Utility Swaps!
As I’m sitting here curled up with the snow coming down outside, I am already longing for color. With this, the first trio of 2015 Fanciful Utility Swaps will be all about color!
First, we will pick up the “Greene Swap” we didn’t get to last fall, making it the “Greene & Green Swap”. Then, in the following months, we will swap other period color fabrics.
This season’s swaps will include:
- The Greene & Green Swap – For those of us with Susan Greene’s book, Wearable Prints, we will be swapping fabrics similar to those in the pages of her book. (Group1) — For those who don’t yet have her book, we will swap Green Fabrics appropriate to the nineteenth century. (Group2). (Of course, you can do both groups.) There were lots of popular greens of the century, including the infamous poison green.
- The Red Swap – We will swap popular nineteenth century Red Fabrics.
- The Blue Swap – We will swap popular nineteenth century Blue Fabrics.
What is a Swap?
This is a chance for to exchange fabric with a small group of people. Each group will have 8 people exchanging pieces of fabric. All you need is a half yard of fabric and envelopes along with your copy of Fanciful Utility.
To Participate:
1: Sign Up Day!
On sign-up day, groups will be assigned on a first-in basis; the first eight will be the first swap group, second eight in the second group, etc. **Please be certain you will be able to fully participate by mailing your fabrics on the Mail-Out Date.**
- “Greene/Green Swap” – Sign-Up Day: January 20th
- “Red Swap” – Sign-Up Day: February 20th
- “Blue Swap” – Sign-Up Day: March 20th
2: Mail-Out Day:
Place a 9×9″ piece of fabric suited to the mid-19th century in envelopes for each of the 7 other people in your swap group, stamp them (be sure to double check at the post office, but the small 9×9″ pieces should mail in a regular envelope with a normal stamp), and send them off no later than the Mail-Out Day.
- “Greene/Green Swap” – Mailing Day: January 30th
- “Red Swap” – Mailing Day: February 28th
- “Blue Swap” – Mailing Day: March 30th
3: Get Fanciful!
Use your Fanciful Utility templates and techniques to make a project from the book, or copy your own from 19th century sources. We’ll all look forward to seeing your projects! You don’t have to sew right away, but don’t keep us waiting forever to see all the fun things!
(If you need a copy of Fanciful Utility, you can purchase them from the publisher at www.thesewingacademy.com
Fabric Guidelines:
- For the cotton and silk categories, your fabric should be early to mid-nineteenth century appropriate. (If there is a want for an earlier or later group, we can do that.) Prints and motifs should reflect those available in the 1840s, 50s and 60s. Cotton should be 100% cotton. Silk should be 100% silk.
- To keep the swap and sewing possibilities interesting, please avoid solids as best we can.
- Fabrics that do not work well for sewing cases should not be swapped. These include sheers, gauzes, heavy, thick, easy-to-fray, slippery and stretch fabrics.
- For the “crazy swap” category, think crazy quilt in a sewing case. This could include satins, velvets, textured fabrics. Quality synthetic fabrics are invited.
Swapper Guidelines:
- Please be certain you can fully participate in the swap before you sign-up.
- If something arises after you sign-up that will effect the date you are mailing your fabrics, please email your group so everyone is aware.
- If you fail to fully participate in a swap, you will not be able to sign-up for future swaps. (We do understand medical and family emergencies. I need to be able to ensure swappers will receive fabrics when they send fabrics out.)
Q&A
Yes, you can participate in 1, 2 or 3 of the swaps.
Yes, if we end up with multiple groups, you can participate in more than one group to swap more fabric. If you participate in 2 groups, you should swap 2 fabrics.
Yes, you can swap large and small scale prints.
Yes, you can swap now and sew later.
Yes, we would love to see what you’ve made with the swapped fabric.
Yes, you can use your own fabric in your swapped project.
Looking Back & Looking Forward – 2014 & 2015
It is that time of year when we think about what we’ve accomplished as we wrap up the current year and about what we want to accomplish in the coming year.
I’d describe my current state as one of a bowl of thought soup churning around not yet sure of what is what.
In 2014….
- When the year started, I decided I wanted to try to sew a bonnet a week minus two weeks for Christmas, 50 bonnets. Just as Thanksgiving week wrapped up, I passed my goal.
- That same week I made a new blog daily view record and broke a comment milestone.
- I developed my millinery impression’s pieces a bit more with a ribbon holder, bonnets stands, a ledger/journal and an colorful interactive.
- In the fall, I had dual workshop day for the museum’s Domestic Arts Symposium.
- I, um, broke the planned plan, developed a bigger collection and had to buy more archival boxes.
- I ran a few series on the blog this year, one surveying the millinery of 1864, another looking newspaper articles written by rural people for rural readers, and “Their Life, Their Words” looking at the every day life of women.
- We had two sets of Fanciful Utility Swaps, one in the spring and one in the fall that has just sort of kept on going.
In 2015…. I don’t so much have any “New Year’s Resolutions”. I have “things I would like to do”:
- My big millinery goal is to get the planned plan on paper, in fabric, in film and finally in print or in a lecture hall.
- As it was such a nice goal, again I am going to set the 5o goal.
- I want to spend more time in the village and at a couple historic sites.
- I want to hold another millinery sewing day. (I’d like to eventually hold a millinery retreat.)
- I want to do an afternoon excursion Canandaigua Lady for a small bunch of us in historic attire. Something relaxing, low-key and pleasant. The Canandaigua steamboats seem to be used for daily commuting into the city and along the lake, allowing us to wear day attire and enjoy each others’ company without stressing before hand.
- I want to do a few workshops at some point.
- I have been procrastinating reorganizing, okay flat out re-doing the millinery ribbon blog. Part of me wants to move it again to have a better url. Part of me has no idea when I will find the time. I have a stack, large stack, of posts for that blog I have not done.
What everyone is looking for…. The projects:
- I am going to hook a rug. Actually, I am going to make a sewn rug (earlier method) and hopefully a hooked version of the same. I really like the idea of doing one in a Baltimore album quilt square style with jewely greens and reds. I sorta started a pinboard.
- The multiple pieces that go with the above mentioned planned project.
- I will make one of the coats. I have the black wool and the ivory wool/silk just waiting and waiting. *(though, it would be a good idea to use the black wool for a hood workshop. The slightly felted flannel would make a snuggly warm hood.)
- I will make something for me. *(This has been lacking in the recent years compared to further previous; one dress a year verses many wardrobe additions.)
Glitch
Some of my fabulous subscribing readers may be getting anouncements of articles that aren’t there yet.
The mobile version of WordPress tried to make some upcoming post live today as I reviewed them.
I’m sorry about the confusion. Please, think of those as friendly teasers for what is coming.
Winter Millinery of 1864
Bonnets are now worn quite small, though not the marvels of disolnation [sic] we sometimes hear of. They are proportioned in size to the head and features of the wearer. Where the curtain is abandoned, it is replaced by loop of ribbon and falls of lace, so tastefully arranged that the curtain, which generally gives the style to the bonnet, is scarcely missed. We cannot resist describing some charming bonnets from the establishment of that fashionable artiste, Mme. Tilman, of 148 East 9th Street, New York.
A snowflake like bonnet, suitable for visiting or reception, was of white royal velvet, with soft, drooping crown, covered with falls of marabout fringe. Inside were clusters of half-blown roses, bedded in a mass of white tulle.
Another was a puffed tulle, with hanging crown and covered with soft blonde lace, loops of rose-colored velvet, and tufts of forget-me-nots. On the edge of the front was a tulle scarf, which tied under the chin, and took the place of the quilled side caps.
A very graceful bonnet was of violin crepe, with a wreath of autumn leaves and mulberries placed round the crown, and tied at the back with a ribbon and long ends.
Another evening bonnet was very tastefully trimmed with fuchsias round the crown. The face trimming was formed of a fringe of fuchsias, falling over a plait of tulle. The effect of this was charming.
For the street were velvets of rich, soft shades, trimmed with plumes or flowers, some having net crowns of narrow velvet, arranged loosely over white crepe of silk.
The prejudice against the mixture of blue and green no longer exists, and we find this combination in flowers, feathers, ribbons, and, in fact, in all kinds of goods. (Godey’s, December, 1864)
Christmas Swap Fabrics
They’re all here!
The spectrum of fabrics in this swap is fabulous. It seems poinsettas were the popular motif. There is one I suspect my husband will claim.
Fanciful Utility – 2014 Ornaments
A special something for my Fanciful Utility readers….
Use your favorite techniques from Fanciful Utility to make something with a modern twist. You can make ornaments for your tree or festive needle-books with these templates. I offer you a pair of traditional spun ornaments and a fun mitten and stocking pair.
Victorian Christmas
During the past couple weeks, I have been greatly enjoying these videos. London By Gaslight has shared them twice a week or so (I have had a horrible sense of time, so I may be way off.)
There are a great many other goodies packed into this blog. I highly recommend adding it to your feed.
The Christmas Bonnet
The Christmas Bonnet, by J.E. M’C.(Arthur’s Ladies’ Magazine, 1867)
Two young ladies were busy in their own apartment turning over various bureaus and wardrobes of dresses.
“Now, Louise, what shall we give Hannah for a Christmas present? It must be something handsome, you know, for servants all compare notes over their gifts, and it wont do to seem mean.”
“Why couldn’t we make her a real stylish bonnet? We have plenty of old ribbons and velvets, and you know we served quite an apprenticeship last season at the business in order to have a different bonnet to match each dress. “
“That’s the very thing, and will only cost us a trifle. A new dress for her would cost at least five dollars, but this need cost nothing but the price of the frame. I am sure I am willing to take the trouble to save the money for something I want myself. So, Louise, bring out your bandboxes, and let us pick out and freshen up your reddest ribbons and roses.”
The result of the morning’s work was a green velvet bonnet, with flaming strings and flowers. The sisters enjoyed a good laugh over it, but they knew it was exactly to Hannah’s taste. A few additional trifles were culled out of their wardrobes – mere second-hand finery – too shabby for their own use, but stylish enough to quite turn the head of a young country girl, who was fast learning city ways, and beginning to prefer outside show to substantial comfort.
That velvet bonnet was the admiration and envy of all Hannah’s set. But that was just what she wished. The evil seeds of vanity found a mellow soil in the poor girl’s heart. How they all pitied poor Sarah Jane, whose mistress only gave her a stout pair of overshoes and a warm, knitted hood. Such meanness they all declared it.
But now began the serious trouble of Hannah’s life. She had nothing fit to wear with the bonnet. Her “blanket shawl” did very well with her old dark straw, but it would look poorly enough with this gay top-know above it. Every cent must be saved now to get herself a flimsy cloth coat with shiny buttons. But after it was bought, it was found to have no warmth in it, and poor Hannah shivered and chattered with cold every time she went out with it on. Even her pride did not keep her warm. Then her dress did not match her coat, and she laid awake many a long night contriving ways and means to get her a new on. A sleazy imitation of French merino was one she had her heart set on. A good substantial delaine would have been much prettier and more becoming; but Hannah could not see that.
The young ladies who had started her on this course of folly felt no responsibility to see how she came out. They felt they had done a very handsome thing in the way of Christmas gifts, and now all they desired was that Hannah should show her gratitude by discharging her household duties faithfully. But she had little heart in her work now. Her brain ran all the time on her new finery. She became careless in her work, and sharp words were frequently spoken, which as often brought surly or fretful answers. The final result was that poor Hannah wended her way to an intelligence office with her velvet bonnet upon her head, and all her flimsy finery about her, and took her seat with a score of others to wait for a new mistress.
She was surprised to see that the plain and neatly dressed girls were always chosen first. Ladies scarcely gave a second glance at her gay bonnet, though she felt sure it was as fine as many of the ladies wore themselves.
A weary time she had waiting and her next situation was far from being one that would improve either mind or heart.
Ladies little know the mischief they often do by giving domestics cast-off finery wholly unsuited to their wants or circumstances. It is a far greater kindness to bestow on them a much plainer gift, which will be of real service. A prudent, kind-hearted mistress will take her pains to instruct a servant in the care of her clothing, and will give useful suggestions with regard to the best way of making a little money go the farthest. Such advice, will hardly fail of being well received, and will usually result in much good.
It is idle to say that it is none of our concern how our servants manage their affairs. It is our duty to do them good by every means in our power, and God will not hold us guiltless if we turn away from these duties. Above all let us guard against fostering that love of dress which ruined so many of our poor serving girls for this life and the next. Seek to fill their minds and hearts with something higher and better, even though the work costs us time, and thought, and labor. The Master’s eye is upon us. He will certainly call us to give a strict account of stewardship, when the day comes that we shall be no longer stewards.
A Winter Hood
Except from “The Romance of a Tassel” (The Christmas Annual, 1860)
We were to have a sleigh-ride, and the principal topic of conversation was, the delightful morning and the promise of pleasure; I was olde enough to feel all the enthusiasm of the occasion, and yet to temper my feelings with quietness. My Cousin Kate and I had been knitting some new hoods, beautiful we thought them, and of a new pattern. As my fingers had toiled through the countless loops, I had only thought what a delight it would be to wear it, and a little vanity was mingled with my feeling, for truly I looked like another person in its scarlet and white border than in the faded silk of my old hood.
All the young girls and boys of the village were to go to this ride, and I knew very well that Kate and I would have the most dashing head-gear of the party and I remembered with pleasure, that Esquire Thomas’s son Chester had come from the city and was to be one of the party.
I presume I tried my hood on twenty times the day before, because, I said, it felt so comfortable, but I had to look in the glass each time to see just how comfortable it felt.
After our breakfast was over, my Uncle Oliver rode up with his daughter Nancy, who had been sent to join in the day’s pleasure. She lived several miles back in the country, and I must acknowledge that I felt too little interest in her pale face and quiet manners, because I thought she was not quite so smart in her ways and dress as we village girls; but I had not an unkind heart, and so I ran to meet her with a hearty welcome, saying “Why, how cold you are; your cheeks at least are red as roses; come to the fire.” My mother with gentle manner took off her straw bonnet, trimmed with its light faded ribbon, and gave her some coffee, and I ran to get ready for the ride. It took me an hour. I twisted my curls over and over again. I asked Kate if I looked well enough. Then I put on my hood – too it off – re-arranged my curls. “There,” said Kate at last, “you look like father’s beautiful scarlet and white carnation pinks, and if Chester does not say so, I will box his ears.” – And what will Chester say of you?” I asked “Oh what he always does. “you most beauchiful butcherfly.” “But is not Chester handsome, Susy? And he is really so good, so manly, so noble, father says, none of your fops – but come, let’s go down.”
Just then my mother with her gentle touch opened the door. I remembered the look she cast on me – it was one of mingled pride and trust – her eye was bright and cheerful, but there was a look so ful of hope for me and trust in me, that I ran up to her with a kiss as hearty as when I was five instead of fifteen.
“Susy,” said she, in her animated but gentle manner, “Nancy has nothing to wear but her straw bonnet. She will be ill if she thus exposes herself to the cold wind. She says sh will stay with me rather than suffer as she did coming here this morning.” “Well I think it’s queer how some people live,” said I, “Never having anything to wear that is appropriate.” But Susy, she says her mother has been so sick, and you know her father is rather afraid of pennies.” “Afraid! I should should think he was anything but afraid the way he hugs them. Well, Nancy can have my old hood, thought it don’t look very well, but it is better than that old straw bonnet.”
My mother’s look changed instantaneously; there was a sad, half reproachful, half hopeful look on her face as she opened the door, saying, “Would you like to have her wear the old one?” She shut the door and went out. What a commotion was in my heart. I knew my mother had expected me to offer my new hood to Nancy, and wear the old one myself; but what visions were before me of Chester and the effect of my hood on him; of the general look of the whole party as they saw me again in that old Silk. Then came to my ear the sweet tones of my Mother’s voice. I heard all she felt, but more powerful was the thought of what would they say to see me looking like an “old dud.”
I believe I should yielded to the selfishness of my heart if Kate had not spoken.
“I think it is absurd for your mother to ask it; of course you will wear your own things.” Her tone and manner brought to me my Mother’s hopeful trust in me, for she had called her absurd and I knew she was anything but that.
“Of course I shall,” said I, and I ran from the room with swift step. I tore my hood from my head on the way. “Here Nancy,” said I, “You must wear my hood this once, it is so warm and perhaps your father will get you worsted to knit one – Wont you Uncle Oliver? It only costs a dollar., and just see how fine it looks.”
If I Had My Own Blue Box: 