Picnic Hats & Bonnets

As this confusing winter hints of spring, this seems to be the year of the picnic.

I am excited to see several history minded picnics coming up this spring. It looks like people are planning both smaller intimate gatherings and larger events, as well as year specific events and timeline events.

As those with a picnic or two on their schedule prepare their picnic attire and neccessities, I am getting questions about picnic headwear.

In developing straw millinery pieces, I rely strongly on visual inspiration. In this case, seeing picnics, those attending, and their hats & bonnets. I keep a file of paintings, photographs, stereoviews, and illustrations in my phone to reference as I work.

These images show us women wore both hats and bonnets were worn during picnics. Some scenes also show women wearing sunbonnets.

These captured picnic scenes also show us the transition in millinery styles from the 1850s to the 1860s and through the end of the century. For the most part, the bonnets depicted in images follow the fashion norms of the time or year. Through the 1850s and 1860s, hats also maintain the basic shape and size norms but tend to have minimal decoration with a simple ribbon being most common. This difference seems to lessen in the 1870s with more adornment on some hats, while the variety of hats expands.

Selecting a Picnic Hat

1850s

The hats of the 1850s have shallow crowns and wide brims. The crown, the top portion that sits on the head, can be a curved dome shape or a flat top with tapered sided. This crown rises only a couple inches, making the hat sit high on the head. (This can feel quite different compared to a modern hat.) The brims depicted in paintings range from about a handspan on each side to as wide as shoulder width. (My shoulders are 15 inches wide. A friend’s are 17 inches wide.) These brims are shaped, dipping down at the front and back. Views from the side, the brim edge creates a soft C facing down. This curved shape is supported by wire sewn into the edge of the brim.

Paintings and photos show these hats trimmed with ribbon. Most often, ribbon encircles the crown with a bow centered at the back. Some hats are shown with loops or ruche of ribbon at the front or sides as well. A very limited number also show ruched ribbon at the brim edge, or a few flowers.

1860s

Hat crowns stay shallow in the first half of the 1850s while the brims become much narrower, spanning less than a hand width. This image shows two hats made with the same crown but different width brims, the top for the early 1860s, the bottom for the late 1850s.  Hat brims of the 1860s provide little to no shade for the face. As with the previous decade, these brims are shaped, dipping down at the front and back. Views from the side, the brim edge creates a soft C facing down. This curved shape is supported by wire sewn into the edge of the brim.

Those desiring a wider brim for this decade may want to consider a country hat. This hat has a brim that is slightly wider while doming down around the head.

Images show 1860s picnic hats trimmed with simplicity similar to that of the 1850s,  using ribbon as the primary embellishment. This is a style shape I see in photos of picnics and croquet. 

1870s

At the risk of over generalizing, it seems once we pass into the 1870s, the variety of headwear in picnic images increases notably.  Those depicted are fashionable for the season. More trims are evident on hats.

I will make a point to create hats and bonnets with picnics through the spring. Please check my shop for pieces available.

I will also be creating some pieces with rural cemeteries in mind as a new exhibit on The Rural Cemetery Movement will be opening in May. The millinery worn when visiting or picnicking in a cemetery is similar. Though one particular piece stands out on my to-do list:

Published in: on March 4, 2024 at 12:54 pm  Leave a Comment  

Thank You!

Locally,  it feels as if Mother Nature doesn’t know what month it is, and to be honest, neither do I.

I mentioned last month that January and February tend to be slow sales months. While this holds true, I somehow managed to make 10 millinery pieces this month. With this in mind, my first thank you really needs to go to my massage therapist who keeps my hands working. I started seeing her a few years ago when my hands were so swollen and tight I dropped the iced tea pitcher, making a huge mess. My next session will need to focus on the spasms and knots developed this month.

I also want to thank each person who humored me in my last-minute planning for the Bookworm Retreat. Liz and Gina got nearly daily messages asking about progress. Meanwhile, Marna and Sara got squirrelly questions about frames and signs.

Thank you to everyone who ordered something this month. I am just one hat and one e-publication shy of my goal for the month. Not bad for a short winter month. I do want to remind people that in spring and early summer, it can become difficult to get the millinery piece you want because pieces sell faster.

You may have noticed a shop name change. Please help by sharing this new url:

https://amillinerswhimsy.etsy.com

I continue to be grateful to my Patreon Patrons and your on-going support. February’s pocket was a sweet romantic design. The coming March design is a quilted one taken from two original pockets.

Published in: on February 29, 2024 at 1:20 pm  Leave a Comment  

Mini-Booklet – A Brief Guide to Millinery,  1855-1865

I made a new mini-booklet.

Mini-Booklet – A Bried Guide to Millinery, 1855-1865

Published in: on February 20, 2024 at 8:58 pm  Leave a Comment  

Victorian Fancy Work In Detail

In celebration of this weekend’s Bookworm Retreat and my birthday this week, I am offering  Victorian Fancy Work In Detail. This compilation will be available all week in my Etsy shop for $20, a monumental savings over buying seven separate In Details. I will decide at the end of the week whether to continue to offer the publication and at what price.

If you enjoyed Fanciful Utility, you will love my Victorian Fancy Work In Detail. This volume is packed full of full color photographs detailing 9 original pieces of Victorian fancy work. Each piece is described in detail, thus the publication series name. Most of the pieces are accompanied by directions for making your own reproduction.

This volume includes:
~ Blue Ribbon Sewing Case (template, no directions)
~ Velvet Slipper Pin Cushion (directions)
~ Embroidered Velvet Needle-book (directions)
~ Pillow Pin Ball Pin Cushion (directions)
~ Corded Pin Ball, aka Earl’s Ball (directions)
~ Paper Pieced Pin Ball (directions)
~ Heart Pin Cushion
~ Frozen Charlotte Pen Wiper (directions for 2 versions)

The volume comes to 119 pages in full color. Due to Etsy’s upload size constraints, the publication is divided into 3 files. While I do allow the printing of a single hardcopy for yourself, I caution that this one will take a lot of ink.

As “Volume 1” suggests, I do intend to do a volume 2. I am continuously keeping an eye out for pieces to include.

Published in: on February 18, 2024 at 9:09 am  Leave a Comment  

The Adventures of Alex the Mouse

This is a fun little story I started some time back. It is the idea that I used for my AI homework in the previous post.
We’ve all heard stories of the little mouse who just doesn’t fit in. In recent years, there has been a brave mouse who helped save a princess and a little cook who helped save a cooking empire. Ok, so that cook was a rat not a mouse. This is a similar story.
Our little mouse lived with his family, his mother, father, and three siblings, in a beautiful historic house museum. This little mouse’s name was Alex. All his life Alex’s mother and father told him and his siblings how lucky they were to live in such a beautiful, old house. Alex’s school lessons took place through-out the house, where he and his many mouse classmates learned about all the Federal furniture, early Victorian decoration and mid-nineteenth century textiles. Alex’s classmates’ favorite day of the week was when they learned about 19th century food and cooking. Alex, on the other hand just couldn’t figure out how the little old lady who made the food never figured out bits and pieces went missing.
That wasn’t the only thought Alex had that was different from his classmates, or his family for that matter. Actually, Alex had very little interest in most everything around him. While his sister loved to watch the human school groups come visit and try to answer all the kids’ questions before the tour guide, Alex simply was not amused. While Alex’s brothers like to race each other from the second floor grandmother’s clock to the first floor grandfather’s clock in the parlor in the time from the first chime to the last chime, Alex simply was not amused. While Alex’s best friend George, enjoyed collecting all the bits and pieces of thread and fabric from the women sewing to make his own quilt, Alex simply was not amused.
But, there was one weekend a year that Alex loved. When the weather turned warm and the days a bit longer, the house museum would host a living history event. Hundreds of people from all around the area would come set-up camp and dress in historic clothing while visitors would wander through the house’s yard. Alex was very excited to see all these people. It turns out that while Alex was not interested in the 19th century, he loved vintage goodies; they were so much newer then everything he grew up with. His room was filled with vintage items he collected each year on this weekend. Each year, as people arrived on Friday, Alex would watch paying close attention and coming up with his scouting plan for that evening. Then as evening came, he would prowl the area collecting.
This particular year, Alex was quite excited as he watched people arrive. He had already spotted a group of women over by the willow tree that kept bringing plastic totes out of their car. That will be where he will start. Then, if everything isn’t too heavy, he’ll work his way back to the house.
As the sun began to set, Alex ventured out.
Alex learned the best place to travel was along the edges of the tents as these were fairly safe and protected areas. He especially liked the tents that had straw packed along the sides, as if needed he could hide or stash his finds there. As he scurried, Alex realized he was actually stepping in time with the music being played a several tents over. He even surprised himself with that one. Then he stopped quick. A sound. A very different sound. It was coming from the next tent. He ran ahead and ducked under the canvas. There was a man, half dressed in the gray wool so many of the other men were wearing, sitting on the ground hunched over. Bleep, bleep, bling, bleep. It was one of those little noise making toys the school kids brought with them and the teachers took away. Alex tried to climb up the tent pole to get a better view. He found these games interesting. But, he knew better then to take one as he already found they stop working after a few days. He also knew he couldn’t be distracted to long. He had to move on.
Back outside, Alex headed right for the willow tree. As he got closer, he knew he was in the right spot. A table cloth had slid off of a blue plastic ice box outside the tent. He slid under the edge of the tent. Once inside, he assessed his surroundings.
At the top of the little folding stool, one of the ones Alex saw women fall over on many times, Alex became very excited. Left in a pile was one of those bags the women wore on their heads holding their hair. This was just perfect. Alex was hoping he would find something like this because his bed was getting old and he really wanted a hammock to sleep in. Green would be perfect. He rolled it up as best he could and slung it over his shoulder. As he did, he saw something shiny on the bed below. He worked he way down to the bed and over to the shiny object. Once again, Alex was happy. It was a pony-tail lady. Alex loved these pony-tail ladies. He had a whole collection of them.
This is where I stopped writing 13ish years ago.

Published in: on February 14, 2024 at 12:00 pm  Leave a Comment  

A Mouse and and AI Experiment

Many years ago, I started this silly story about a mouse who lived at a historic house museum and had a disdain for historical inaccuracies. I envisioned this little mouse scurrying about the museum and grounds during a living history event collecting the anachronistic items. I didn’t get far with Alex’s story. Though, I suspect this post obliges me to press the “publish” button.

Jump forward to yesterday’s AI workshop and our “homework.” We were told to try a list of task types with a couple of AI platforms. (I have previously tried out ChatGPT and WordPress’s embedded assistant.) As you know, my mind tends to wander. This time, it wandered back to Alex, the museum mouse.

The results are too cute and too curious not to share.

Here are the stories developed by ChatGPT using both my work and personal account, and Gemini. I will add WordPress Assistant when I am in front of my laptop,  as it is not part of the mobile app. Worth noting: ◇ I errored out ChatGPT 5 times, 3+2, before it could generate the story on my personal account. It did not explain why. ◇The line breaks in formatting are due to copy/pasting from Google Drive to WordPress, not the AI platforms.

Prompt to ChatGPT, Gemini, and WordPress Assistant:
Please write a story about a mouse who lives in a history museum. At night, she wanders through the museum correcting inaccuracies. Include three inaccurate details she corrects regarding material culture and/or women’s history in the
story.

ChatGPT (Personal)
Once upon a time, in the heart of the city, there was a history museum that held the tales of ages
past. Unbeknownst to the curators and visitors, a small, clever mouse named Amelia had made this
museum her home. Amelia had an extraordinary ability: she could read, and she knew the history of the artifacts better than anyone else.
Amelia’s little nest was hidden behind a dusty exhibit of ancient pottery. As the museum closed its doors to the public and the night settled in, Amelia would emerge from her cozy abode, her keen eyes sparkling with mischief and knowledge.
One night, as the moon bathed the museum in a gentle glow, Amelia set out on her nightly
adventure. She scurried through the dimly lit halls, her tiny paws pattering softly against the marble floors. The museum, usually silent during the night, came alive with the whispers of forgotten stories.
Amelia’s first stop was the “Pioneer Women” exhibit. With a critical eye, she examined the
mannequins dressed in pioneer clothing, portraying the hardships of the early settlers. The
inaccuracies leaped out at her – the women’s clothing was far too clean and well-maintained, lacking the wear and tear that would have been inevitable in the harsh conditions of the time. Amelia rearranged the dresses, adding a touch of realism to the exhibit.
Next, she scurried into the exhibit showcasing medieval armor. A placard beside a suit of armor
declared it to be worn exclusively by men. Amelia knew better. She carefully moved the sign and left a small note correcting the historical oversight, pointing out that women, too, had worn armor in various capacities throughout history.
Amelia’s final destination was the “Inventions of the Industrial Revolution” display. She came across a model of a spinning jenny, with the description incorrectly attributing its invention to a man. With a determined squeak, Amelia repositioned the sign to acknowledge the crucial role women played in the textile industry during that era, correcting the historical oversight.

As the night waned on, Amelia continued her mission, tirelessly seeking out and correcting
inaccuracies throughout the museum. With each small adjustment, she felt a sense of accomplishment, knowing that she was setting the historical record straight.
By dawn, Amelia retreated to her hidden nest, satisfied with her nocturnal endeavors. Little did the museum staff know that a tiny mouse named Amelia had become the guardian of historical accuracy, ensuring that the stories told within its walls were not only fascinating but also true to the remarkable roles women played throughout history. And so, the mouse in the history museum
continued her quiet crusade, making sure the past was not forgotten or misrepresented.

ChatGPT (School)
In the heart of the city stood a grand history museum, its towering columns and intricate façade hiding the tales of centuries gone by within its walls. Unbeknownst to the daytime visitors, a small and clever mouse named Matilda called this museum home. While the museum bustled with activity during the day, at night, Matilda came alive, embarking on her mission to correct historical inaccuracies.
Matilda had a deep love for history and a keen eye for details. Living amidst artifacts and exhibits, she couldn’t stand the thought of misinformation lingering within the museum’s hallowed halls. As the sun dipped below the horizon, Matilda scurried from her cozy nook in a forgotten corner, ready to set things right.
Her first stop was the exhibit on the Renaissance, where an exquisite portrait of a woman hung on the wall.
The accompanying plaque identified the subject as Isabella d’Este, a renowned art patron. However, Matilda knew that it was actually a misattribution. The woman in the portrait was not Isabella but rather her sister, Beatrice d’Este. With a few nimble adjustments to the plaque, Matilda ensured that Beatrice received the
credit she deserved for her significant contributions to the arts.
Next, Matilda found herself in the material culture exhibit, surrounded by artifacts from the Victorian era. She was dismayed to see a display of intricately designed corsets, accompanied by a caption that implied these garments were universally worn by women of that time. Matilda knew better – she scurried up to the display and left a tiny note clarifying that not all women wore corsets, as many reformers and activists of the period advocated for more comfortable and practical clothing choices.
Matilda’s third correction took her to the World War II exhibit. A photograph of a group of women working in a munitions factory caught her attention. The caption suggested that these women were merely filling in for men who were away at war. Matilda knew this was a common misconception, as women played crucial
roles in various industries during the war, proving their capabilities and contributing significantly to the home front effort. She replaced the misleading caption with a more accurate description, highlighting the integral role women played in supporting the war effort.
Night after night, Matilda tirelessly continued her mission, ensuring the historical narrative within the museum was as accurate and inclusive as possible. As the sun began to rise, Matilda returned to her hidden nook, content in the knowledge that she had made a difference in preserving the truth of the past. The museum, now more accurate and respectful of women’s contributions, stood as a testament to the small mouse with a big passion for history.

Gemini
In the hushed stillness of the Grand Museum, when moonlight filtered through dusty display cases, Pip, a tiny house mouse with whiskers as sharp as curiosity, embarked on her nightly mission. No, she wasn’t after crumbs or cheese – Pip was a history buff, a custodian of truth in a miniature fur coat.
Tonight, her keen eyes landed on a diorama depicting a pioneer family. The woman, clad in a pristine white apron, churned butter, her gaze demurely downcast. Pip, nose twitching in disapproval, scurried up a leg of the display. With nimble teeth, she adjusted the woman’s grip on the churner, turning it into a firm, practiced
hold, and lifted her chin a notch, conveying quiet strength, not submissiveness. History books often relegated women to the background, but Pip knew better. These women were pioneers, too, their resilience etched in every calloused hand and determined stride.
Next, she scampered towards a tapestry showcasing a medieval banquet. A bard, strumming a lute, entertained the noblemen, while women adorned in flowing gowns passively watched. Pip scoffed. Women in
the Middle Ages weren’t just silent observers. She carefully gnawed at the tapestry, revealing a hidden section beneath – women playing instruments, composing poems, and engaging in lively conversation. History often silenced their voices, but Pip wouldn’t let them remain unheard.
Finally, she reached a display of ancient Egyptian artifacts. A golden necklace, labeled as “women’s
adornment,” lay beside a pharaoh’s scepter. Pip, a history scholar in rodent form, knew this was wrong. This necklace wasn’t mere decoration; it was a symbol of power, worn by female pharaohs like Hatshepsut, who ruled with wisdom and ferocity. With a determined nip, she rearranged the display, placing the necklace
alongside the scepter, a silent testament to the power women wielded even in the cradle of civilization.
As dawn approached, Pip scurried back to her nest, nestled amongst the museum’s forgotten maps. She might be small, but her nightly revisions were a testament to the power of one, even a tiny mouse, to ensure history was told truthfully, with all its complexities and the voices too often silenced. In the vast halls of the museum, her tiny paw prints marked the path to a more accurate past, reminding everyone that even the smallest can make a difference.

I am sure many of you have thoughts on the scenes these tools generated.

Published in: on February 14, 2024 at 10:47 am  Leave a Comment  

Pocket of the Month

It is the 10th of February, which means this month’s Pocket of the Month design goes live on Patreon for Patrons.

This month’s pocket is a romantic embroidery design with a sweet bird delivering a love letter.

2024 Pocket of the Month designs:

  • January – Thistle design
  • February  – Delivery Bird
  • March –
  • April –
  • May –
  • June –
  • July –
  • August –
  • September –
  • November –
  • December –

2023 designs included:

Published in: on February 11, 2024 at 12:30 pm  Leave a Comment  

A Special Unboxing

What do my e-publications look like in print?

It took me far too long to find out…. they look fabulous!

I should have been having nice copies of each of my e-publications printed as I completed them as a way of fully feeling their completion and celebrating the work that went into them: the research, creation, writing, and formatting. But, life got in the way.

An invitation to do a book table at GCVM’s upcoming book theme weekend nudged me to finally get these printed. Thank You Lindsay!

I stopped at my local Penny Lane Printing to see if they could make me copies of each of my main e-publications on a short turn-around. They came through with two copies of each: one for display at the event and hopefully future events, one for my bookshelf and records. (I keep envisioning copies of my book covers framed with their Library of Congress certificates.) I even threw in my In Detail series last minute. 

Seeing them in print is gleefully satisfying. Penny Lane did a beautiful job with rich color. Flipping through, I am very pleased with both their work and my work. Seeing the layouts and images in print makes me happy, as well as grateful to my art and graphic design teachers. ✨️

I suspect there are two questions some of you are wondering….

First –  Where is From Field to Fashion? I meant to cover this in the video but my migraine won out. Don’t worry, I will be bringing a copy of From Field to Fashion.  FFtF was originally in print. I had another small print shop, that has since closed, print it. So, I have a couple copies. Another reason is I am also considering a new edition or much expanded book focusing on either the straw millinery industry or cottage industry as a mode of income for women in the nineteenth century.  This would be another multi year project.

Second – Why don’t I offer printed copies regularly? I would love to be able to offer printed copies. Doing so was one of my first thoughts for this event. Then came the reality of pricing. With only doubling the cost of printing, prices would have been between $26 and $45 each. That said, I am exploring options. I may be able to redesign my shawl or hair net books to be black & white interiors, possibly with color plates. The other route, with less control, would be Amazon.

Published in: on February 9, 2024 at 4:48 pm  Leave a Comment  

Event Announcement: Fanciful Utility In Person

What: Winter Weekends – Reading Theme Weekend

Where: Genesee Country Village and Museum in Mumford, NY

When: February 17th and 18th

Find me in the Town Hall for a meet & greet with local Upstate New York authors. I will have signed copies of Fanciful Utility available for purchase. My display will have print copies of my e-publications paired with samples to see in person.

It has been a long time since I’ve done an in-person event focused on Fanciful Utility. This will be a first for all of my books. I hope, if you are in the area, that you will be able to stop out and say hi.

PS – I will also bring Clara’s bookmarks.

Also Happening on Site:

The Wehle Gallery will be hosting a building tour of the Stuart B. Bolger Library. They will also have a mini display exhibit on some watercolor books in the collection!

The Nature Center will be hosting a K-8 read-a-thon where they are inviting kiddos to bring their favorite blanket and book and read with nature. There will be read aloud story time and a themed hike through the woods to look at some animal tracks and trees found in the books in their collection.

The Historic Village will be talking about book sellers, book binding, paper making, mailing letters, and more.

Published in: on February 1, 2024 at 6:00 am  Comments (1)  

I couldn’t resist these bonnets.

Published in: on January 26, 2024 at 6:03 pm  Leave a Comment