Sew Along – Work Bag – Finishing the Silk Bag

 

I hang my head. I am much, much delayed in posting the finishing directions for the silk bag. 

Remember this channel that was made when we attached the lining and silk? We are simply going to run a silk ribbon or cord through it.

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For each side, cut between 12″ and 18″ depending on how long you want your handles to be. (or cut one 24″ to 36″ long piece.)

Run the ribbon or cord from the inside where the bag meets the pasteboard, to the top of the bag’s channel and back to the base on the other side.

I prefer to work a small hole in the base of the lining to access the channel.

Also use a bodkin or stiletto to work a hole in the top of the silk. You may want to do a fine button hole stitch around this hole.

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I also use my bodkin to bring the ribbon/cord through the channel.

I anchor the ribbon/cord at the base of the channel. This could be done with a knot at each end or folding the end over and stitching down. Since I used a single ribbon, I tied one side and have a flat ribbon on the other side.

My finished version:

 

 

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Where that channel is:

Line the fold of the lining up so it is just below the edge of the outer fabric and pasteboard. (1-2mm) Pin as needed to keep everything lined up.

With a blind stitch or whip stitch, attach the lining to the outer fabric and pasteboard.

***As you attach the lining, you are also creating a channel you will use later for the ribbon/cord to go through.

Finished with the lining.

Published in: on February 23, 2016 at 7:26 pm  Comments (3)  

Re-Reading

There are times I scroll back through my blog remembering all the things I forgot I posted about. It seems sort of silly, but, I do forget what I have written and shared over the years.

Today, I am noticing a few thematic postings I forgot about. Each of these are sets of posts I actually remembered to tag as groups. (I am awfully bad about that.):

In hopes of not completely burying so many of these past posts, I added a “Tag Cloud” at the bottom of the right-hand side.

Published in: on February 23, 2016 at 6:00 am  Comments (2)  

Tonight’s Millinery

Now available on Etsy.

This hat is suitable for an average to large head. It has a shallow shaped crown and a fashionably curved brim.

Published in: on February 22, 2016 at 7:27 pm  Leave a Comment  

Straw Plaiting

 

Published in: on February 22, 2016 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment  

Italian Straw Plaiting

Published in: on February 21, 2016 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment  

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Published in: on February 17, 2016 at 1:07 pm  Enter your password to view comments.  

First Millinery of 2016

I am excited to say I just listed my first millinery pieces of 2016.

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As you can see, these pieces each have something special. Yes, this year, I am going to do a few pieces with something extra. I have both purchased decorative plait and hand-sculpted decorative plait that I will be adding to a few special millinery pieces.

Oh, I also carved some new hat blocks in average and larger sizes. These have the curved top. I also did a flatter top.

First, here is a scallop edge on a hat worked in a narrow plait of a beautiful natural gold.

Next, is a looped edge on a hat in a lighter gold natural plait. 

I also added a small toque style hat that I forgot about. This little lady needs someone to finish and show it off. I listed it at a low price so it can have a quick home.

Published in: on February 17, 2016 at 12:18 pm  Leave a Comment  

Looking at the Cost of Millinery

IMG_8632.JPGI just photographed the first millinery pieces of the year. As there currently is discussion in at least one Facebook group about the cost of attire and what historic artisans make, I thought it would be a good idea to revisit the cost of millinery.

This has been a topic I have addressed a few times in the past. I wrote “Why are Bonnets so Much” in 2014, sharing again in 2015. Prior to that, I created a chart “The Cost of Authenticity” in 2010.

 

This time, I will focus on straw millinery, as that is what I will be focusing on this year.

One significant factor in the cost of straw millinery is the availability of straw. Suitable straw plait is becoming more and more difficult to find. Modern trends have shifted to cellulose and plastic materials. Vintage straws have the risk of being dried out. The growing doll fascination is finding narrow plaits to be sold by the yard, which just is not plausible for millinery pieces that take several dozen yards. With one of my trustworthy suppliers, a hank I used to buy for $16 is now $22 plus shipping, which has also increased quite a bit over the years.

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  • Straw plait ($20-$55 a skein depending on origin, plait and color)
  • Millinery wire ($20/coil)
  • Thread
  • Needles
  • Sizing/blocking ingredients

 

Straw Bonnet Finishing

  • Lining ($10-$15/yard)
  • Facing ($10-$20/yard)
  • Organza, net or lace for frill ($10-$30/yard)
  • Bavolet net ($32/yard)
  • Silk or Ribbon for Bavolet ($5/length to $60/length)
  • Ribbon for functional ties ($2.80)
  • Fashionable Ribbon ($4-$60/yard)
  • Flowers ($10-$75)
  • thread, needles, etc

Straw Hats Finishing

  • Lining ($10-$15/yard)
  • Ribbons  ($2-$30/yard) (narrower)
  • Flowersf ($10-$40)
  • thread, sizing, etc

I hand sew all my millinery. Some straw is easy to work with. Other straw is very tough on the hands, both the skin and the muscles & joints. Some milliners have permanent wear, even damage to their hands. We need really good moisturizers and muscle rubs to keep the hands going.

Depending on the millinery piece and the straw, it can take from 6 hours to 18 hours to hand sew a form. This includes row after row of plait (the narrower the plait, the more rows), edging, wiring, binding and blocking.

Published in: on February 17, 2016 at 11:22 am  Comments (2)  

Work Bags from the 1st Sew Along

Now that the final directions for the first 2016 Sew Along have been shared, photos of finished work bags are coming in. Here are just a few of the bags made in the past month and a half.

 

Published in: on February 12, 2016 at 6:00 am  Comments (10)  

Alas, no home

These poor bonnets never did find a home last year. Each is waiting for the right time and person.

The first is one of my favorites from last year. I just love the combination of the velvet calla lilies and pink & green silk.

This is a smaller straw hat. (It fits my head perching forward.) It would be good for an adult with a smaller to average head or a child. Find it on Etsy.

This little hat is ideal for a late war to post war impression. Light weight, made of fine hemp-straw and silk, it sits back over the hair as it begins to rise. The inspiration for this bonnet comes from this 1865 wedding bonnet at the National Trust Collections (below) Find it on Etsy.

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**Note: I am going to make a point to share my millinery work here first as the listings are complete. This means, to get the first look and chance at pieces, subscribe to my blog. You can opt to have the new posts go to a feed or your email.**

 

 

 

Published in: on February 10, 2016 at 2:30 pm  Leave a Comment  
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