A passage in the 1845 The Ladies’ Work-Table Book’s,  1845 section on plain needlework is nearly identical to a section in Sarah Josepha Hale’s The New Household Receipt-book.

“Table Linen – This department of plain needlework comprises table cloths, dinner napkins, and large and small tray napkins.

“Table Cloths. – These may be purchased either single or cut from the piece. In the latter case, the ends should be hemmed as neatly as possible.

“Dinner Napkins. – These are the various materials; if cut from the piece, they must be hemmed at the ends the same as table cloths. Large and small tray napkins, and knife-box cloths, are made in the same manner. The hemming of all these should be extremely neat. It is a pretty and light employment for all young ladies; and in this way habits of neatness and usefulness may be formed, which will be found very beneficial in after life.

“Pantry linen. – In this department you will have to prepare pantry cloths, dresser cloths, plate basket cloths, china, glass and lamp  cloths, and aprons. Pantry knife-cloths should be of a durable material. The dresser cloths, or covers, look neat and useful. They are generally made of huckaback of moderate fineness; but some ladies prefer making them of a coarser kind of damask. The plate basket cloth is a kind of bag, which is put into the plate basket to prevent the side from becoming greased or discolored. They are made of linen, which is well fitted to the sides, and a piece the size and shape of the bottom of the basket, is neatly seamed in. The sides are made to hang over the basket, and are drawn round the rim by a tape, run into a slit for that purpose. China cloths, and also glass cloths, are to be made of fine soft linen, or diaper; and the cloths used in cleaning lamps, &c., must be of flannel, linen, or silk. All these articles are to be made on the same manner, that is, hemmed neatly at the ends; or if there be no selvages, or but indifferent ones, all round. Nothing looks more slovenly than ragged or unhemmed cloths, which are for domestic use. Little girls of the humbler classes might be employed by the more affluent, in making up those articles and a suitable remuneration given them. ….

There was an interesting passage of the August 17th entry of the 1864 Book of Days:

“‘Table-cloths’ have been in use in Englad certianly since the Saxon period, and in that and every succeeding era.  The word ‘napkin’ was fomerly applied to handkerchiefs and table-linens, as well as to cloths for head-dresses, &c. ‘Napery’ was the general term for linen, especially that for the table. ‘Towel’ requires no explaination.”

Additional Reading:

The Linen Trade, Ancient and Modern by Alexander Johnston Warden 

I’ll continue with one of my favorite household guidance authors, Eliza Leslie….

In her Miss Leslie’s Lady’s House-book, 1850, she says this about table linens:

“Table-Linen. – If the circumstances of the family will allow the expenditure, it is advisable always to get the table-linen of the best quality; as that which is fine and thick will last much longer and look better than if comparatively coarse and thin. There is nothing of the sort superior to the best double French damask; it being not only fine and thick, but soft and glossy, like satin’ and it looks as well after washing as before. The appearance of all table-linen is improved by being mangled in a machine, instead of ironing. A tablecloth ought to be considerably larger than the table, so as to hang down all round.”

“Napkins. – There are few genteel families who are not in the practice of using napkins at the table, to spread on the lap while eating, and for wiping the mouth and the fingers. The best size is about three-quarters square. [she doesn’t say three quarters of what] It is now more customary to hem the napkins than to ravel them with a fringe. If fringed, they must be afterwards whipped with a needle and thread, to secure them from ravelling still farther. Napkins with coloured borders look less genteel than those that are all white. The fines French double damask are the best and handsomest, and will last twice as long as any others. For a dinner party it is customary to place the napkins on the table, nicely folded in squares or diamonds, of which there are a variety of ingenious forms. But when the family dine without company, or with only two or three guests, the napkins are usually folded square, and then rolled up tightly and slipped into a ring of silver, ivory, ebony, or box-wood. These rings are generally numbered or lettered, and care should be taken to place the napkin of each person in his own ring. All table-linen should be marked in full with the whole name of the family.”

“Doilies. These are small napkins intended for wiping the fingers after eating fruit, and are placed round the table for that purpose. They are generally of coloured cotton, with a border; the colours are dark, that the stains may not be conspicuous on them. Unless they are washed very frequently, they acquire a rather unpleasant smell, and are not agreeable to use. We think it best to have white ones, as they are much nicer, and the stains can easily be removed from them. Doilies are always fringed.”

“Setting the dinner table. – Before you begin to set the table, see that every thing is ready and in good order; so that, after you once commence, you may not have to quit for the purpose of making something clean, or of remedying some inconvenience. If in winter, first see that the fire is good, and the hearth clean, and the plates set before it in the plate-warmer. In summer, if there is to be wine, attend in proper time to putting the bottles into the cooler, heaping round them pieces of ice. Also have ready, in one or more small glass dishes or saucers, a sufficiency of bright clean ice, broken into small bits, (with a dessert spoon in each dish, ) for the purpose of using while at table to cool the glasses of wine or water. Cut the dinner bread into thick oblong pieces or blocks; as it is not customary to slice bread, except for breakfast or tea; and take care to have enough in the bread-basket to supply all the persons at the table with a second piece, if required. It is extremely awkward to be obliged to replenish the bread-basket in the midst of dinner, some of the company, perhaps, waiting for it in the mean time. Every thing may be so arranged before-hand that the waiter will not have occasion to leave the room during the progress of the dinner.

First lay down the crumb-cloth; and then, if there is a woollen cover on the dining-table, remove it before you put on the linen cloth, which must be laid smoothly and evenly, so as not to hang down more on one side than the other. Bring in the things (as many at one time as you can) on your tray. Set your plates round the table, one for every person, but place them at the sides only, except those that are intended for the master and mistress of the house, who of course occupy the two ends and will not be able to carve so conveniently of any one is seated beside them.

It is always better to have too much space than too little; and it is therefore advisable to set a table rather to large for the company, than one that is in the least too small. We have seen a whole dinner party made uncomfortable all the time, from being crowded at a table of insufficient size; and in warm weather, particularly, this is no trifling inconvenience.” (She continues in detail how to properly set the table on p 257)

 I currently plan to put up other notes I have from household guide books as well as some odds and ends. In the last post I said I think I will also put up some notes on the kitchen linens. This would include those used for cleaning, food prep and storage in the pantry. While entering the notes above I was thinking about visuals, primarily of dining rooms. Then while typing the part about napkins on the lap, I wondered about non-genteel usages of the napkin such as in the drinking area of a tavern. So, I think I will try to find some images other than nicer dining rooms as well.

In connection with a previous post on Table Clothes, I’ve decided to put up some additional information on table linens that never quite seemed to get organized into an article to go with the article on trays. I’ll begin with some information from the 1840’s Workwomen’s Guide.

The author provides a nice chart in her House Linens section suggesting the number of linens required. For the table she suggests 8 to 10 damask breakfast cloths in 4 sizes ranging from 1 1/4 yards x 1 1/4 yards to 2 yards x 2 yards, 8 to 10 table cloths each in damask separated into one suggestion for a Common table-cloth 2 1/2 yards by 2 yards, and 4 table cloths  ranging from 2 1/2 yards by 2 yards to 5 yards by 2 1/2 yards, 1 to 3 largest size table-cloth in fine damask 8 yards by 2 1/2 yards. 1 to 3 “table linen in the piece, per yard” in damask 1 1/2, 1 3/4, 2, 2 1/2 yards wide, and the same in Diaper, 3 to 6 dozen fine damask dinner napkins 14 nails wide, 3 to 6 dozen breakfast napkins in Damask 12 nails wide, 3 to 6 dozen Doyleys “White or coloured do.” 6 nails square, 6 to 12 dozen large tray clothes in damask or diaper 1 yard 6 nails long by 2 yards 6 nails wide, and 6 to 12 dozen small tray clothes in damask or diaper 1 yard 3 nails by 13 nails. (She also includes price ranges for these items in English prices.) A separate list of kitchen linens suggests 6 to 12 coarse diaper table cloths as well as many other cloths used in the kitchen.

For table cloths the author says “These vary in quality, according to circumstances. The finest are the most expensive, and are only used for company. The price varies not only with the size, but also with the pattern. The material of which they are made is called damask, and may be purchased up to a certain size in single table-cloths, after which it must be bought in the piece. Care should be taken in choosing a table-cloth, to see that the edges are even, and the threads are regular.”

For dinner napkins, she makes suggestions for the napkins then provides information on how to fold them. “Dinner Napkins. These are also made of damask, and vary in quality and price, according to the pattern. The best are from 50s. to 60s per dozen. The second quality from 18s. to 45s per dozen. Dinner napkins are folded in various ways, and are generally put upon the plate, enclosing the roll or bread. The following modes are those usually adopted. [images to come asap]

The Half-Pyramid shape – Plate 21, fig 7,8,9,10. 1st. Take the cloth as it comes from the wash, and open the square length-wise, drawing the folded napkin to its fullest extent. 2nd. Turn up the ends to meet in the centre. Fig. 7. 3rd. Turn the napkin thus folded, so that the turned ends are below, or underneath. 4th. Turn up each corner, half-handkerchief-wise, towards the centre. Fig. 8. 5th. Turn the cloth again the other side uppermost, and again turn the corners up to the centre. Fig. 9. 6th. Take hold of the corners, A B, and by drawing them under, make the napkin stand on its end, so that C stands up, and the cloth is supported by A B D. the bread is within the hollow, or between the folds thus formed.

The Diamond Shape. Plate 21. fig 7,8,9,11,17. 1st Open the square length-wise, drawing out the napkin to its full length. 2nd. Fold the ends to meet in the centre. Fig. 7. 3rd. Turn up each corner, half-handkerchief-wise, towards the centre. Fig 8. 4th. Turn down the corners towards the centre. Fig 11. 5th. Turn the cloth entirely over, and it is ready. Fig. 9. The bread is put in the mouth of the napkin, which should be turned on the plate towards the person. Fig 17.

Another Mode. Plate 21. Fig. 12, 13, 14, 14, 18, 19. 1st. Open the napkin length-wise. 2nd. Fold it down from the centre, half-handkerchief-wise, at the centre, leaving two long ends. Fig. 12, 18. 3rd. Take the right-hand piece, and draw it over towards the left hand, making the point, B, lie upon the point, A, thus forming a second half-handkerchief, fig. 13; turn the end back towards the right from the centre, fold it back again in several neat straight folds towards the centre, Fig. 19; do the same with the left hand piece, Fig. 14, turn the napkin, and it resembles a diamond on the square, Fig. 15.

Napkins are often used to lay under fish, pastry, or sweet things, in which case, they may be folded in the shape of a diamond, or else the whole napkin, being first laid open, is plaited in regular and very small folds till reduced to the proper width; it is then doubled down a little at each end to secure the folds, and to make it fit the dish, Fig. 16.

About doyleys “These may be either white or coloured, and are sometimes open, of six nails square; they are generally fringed. The best linen doyleys are about 11s.  pre=””>6d. per dozen. The second linen quality, 8s per dozen. The common sort or cotton, 4s. to 5s. 3d. per dozen.”

The table cloths listed under Kitchen Linen are described such “These should be made of coarse and often unbleached diaper the size must depend on the number of servants, or rather the length of the table.”  This is the tablecloth placed upon the table for the servants to dine. It is not the cloth used for covering a cooking table. The cooking table covering is of huckaback or coarse diaper with a minimal fall beyond the edge of the table. The author strongly suggests marking the household linens with ink according to their use (H, P, K, S followed by the type of cloth) as well as purchasing the linens for each area of usage in a different pattern (in the weave) so they will not be easily mixed up.

I will add some more of my notes as I can get to them. I may also add  a post on kitchen and pantry linens because as I look back through my notes, I see there are many of those people may be interested in.