An Evening Chill in the Air

Have you noticed the chill in the air as evening sets in? I know it is still August. But, it is definitely there. While it may feel refreshing to fall asleep in this fresh cool air after many hot and humid nights, we all know this means even colder nights aren’t far behind. I’ll admit, this year I am particularly not looking forward to the colder weather coming in since I don’t exactly have my own home with my own favorite creature comforts. I am big, really big on my creature comforts, most of which come from what I’ve learned about how people kept warm in the 19th century. But, I digress.

With cold weather imminent, now is the time to make sure you are ready. After all, you don’t want to be left out in the cold without your cold weather wear.

Layers are the Key to Warmth. This means your 1) Underpinnings 2) Dress 3) Outerwear and 4) Accessories.

For your underpinnings, consider these:

For your dress, consider:

For outerwear, think beyond the cape that will let cold air in and encumber you arms. Consider:

Accessories help keep your hands and head warm. Consider these:

Published in: on August 22, 2011 at 12:22 pm  Leave a Comment  
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What’s Under Foot? (aka the Carpet and Rug Article)

After hearing some ladies go on and on about never hearing of carpet before at this past weekend’s event, I just had to bring this article forward.

This is the rug and carpet article in the Citizen’s Companion a few years back. (I was going to eventually get around to a follow up post linking various examples of rugs and carpets. But, since the topic of braided rag rugs came up on the SA, I decided to put this up for now.)

“For, besides contributing to the adornment of a home and saving much labor of sweeping and scrubbing, they are great protections against cold and dampness, – and thus promote comfort and health. Hence “a bare floor,” has become almost a synonym for discomfort and untidiness; and the landable ambitions to furnish her domicile with floor coverings, – beautiful, if possible, as well as useful, – leads many a housekeeper to wonderful efforts in their manufacture….” (Hale)

            By the mid-nineteenth century, floor coverings established a firm footing in English and American décor. Even a century before, this could not be said. In the mid 1700s only an estimated half of English homes had floor coverings most being floor clothes.[i] The mid nineteenth century American housewife had many options for her floor. Floors could be painted with an assortment of domestically made rugs softening or warming the room; floors could be covered with printed or painted floor clothes, ingrain carpet or a pile carpet. In the first half of the century American carpet and rug manufacture, a newer endeavor for most of the Western world, increased dramatically producing 13,285,921 yards of carpet worth $7,857,636 in 1860. The largest number of manufactures was in Pennsylvania (137) where carpet makers were mostly in small guild-like groupings, while the largest individual manufacturers were in Massachusetts producing one third of the carpets produced.[ii]  According to Floor Coverings for Historic Buildings, 80 to 90 percent of carpeting manufactured in the United States during the 1850s and 1860s was ingrain carpet.  Although manufacturing information may suggest manufactured carpets were more available in the New England and Middle Atlantic States, the Tariff of the Confederate States of America[iii] from August of 1861  lists numerous carpets to be taxed on page 6 including “carpets, carpeting, hearth-rugs, bed-sides, and other portions of carpeting, being either Aubusson, Brussels, ingrain, Saxony, Turkey, Venetian, Wilton, or any other similar fabric, not otherwise provided for; … matting, china or other floor matting, and mats made of flags, jute, or grass.” Vicki Betts’ database of southern newspapers during the war include advertisements for two and three ply ingrain, velvet, tapestry, Brussels, oil cloth, matting, Venetian, and English medallions, which are likely Axminsters.[iv]   In addition to the US manufactured carpets, we imported $2,174,064 worth of carpets from England and $10,317 from France in 1859.[v]

            Household management books and articles[vi] offered advice about how to decorate a house, the parlor, chambers, and dining areas cost effectively including the floor covering and which floor coverings suited which rooms best. Most authors maintain that purchasing a good quality carpet is cheapest in the end. Miss Leslie strongly argues against any carpet with any white in the design due to its rapid tendency to appear soiled, encouraging the selection of a carpet with a gradation of bright and dark tones of a single color or pair of colors (p174). Meanwhile, Beecher discourages carpets with black threads saying they are rotten (p302). More importance is put on floor coverings for the cold winter months to warm the room and floor than in the summer. Leslie and Beecher write about taking carpets up in the summer to store. Anne Hale describes straw mats as preferable in the summer because they remain cool and are easy to clean. Miss Leslie believes carpets add heat to a room and accumulates dust in the summer.

Numerous suggestions are made to protect a carpet. Smaller rugs or extra pieces of carpet are placed over higher traffic areas such as around the bed, doorways, or in front of the couch to protect the carpet beneath[vii]. A large woolen cloth or drugget cloth is suggested for under the table and chairs in the dinning area.[viii] Oil cloth upside down beneath the wash stand or basin protects from splashing water.[ix] Each author also gives advice for laying carpet to best preserve the floors and extend the life of the carpet. A lining as the lowest layer protects the floor. Layered between the lining and the carpet, both Leslie and Hale suggest straw or dried grasses and cotton batting or old quilts. These layers keep the dirt from rubbing against the underside of the carpet causing damage. Beecher disagrees with Hale and Leslie in regards to loose straw under a carpet because it wears the carpet in spots. She prefers the use of straw matting instead. All three women suggest using circles of leather through which the carpet tacks are placed toe prevent the tacks from damaging the carpet. Hale suggests having children cut the circles from old shoes and boots.

  

Types of floor coverings

“A nice American ingrain carpet is handsome enough for any American home; but if women have more money then they know what to do with, they can buy tapestry and velvet; which beautiful as they may be, require such careful usage to retain their good looks, even when of the very best of Brussels and Axminster, that it is much wiser to be satisfied with an ingrain and put the surplus money into pictures for the walls.” (Hale)

Flat Weave carpet

            Flat weave carpet is a woven carpet with no pile. The carpet is flat like a woven piece of fabric with the weave of the fabric creating the design of the carpet.

Kidderminster or Ingrain Carpet

Ingrain carpet is a flat weave double or triple ply reversible carpet woven in Europe and the United States. This carpet is woven in strips which are laid side by side tacked down[x]. Strips ranged from 9 inches to 54 inches with 36 inches being the standard and most common width. Most domestic manuals discuss tacking carpet in place. Beecher details how to sew the strips together as I have seen most extant carpets. The pattern in a two-ply ingrain carpet is created by weaving two webs of weft and warp which inter lock at various points of the design. The pattern is created by the colors of the weft which come to the surfaces (front and back) of the carpet.

“The ingrain or double carpet is found to consist of two contiguous webs, intermingled with each other in such a manner to produce the pattern, each of these webs, if woven singly, would have a striped appearance, being partly coloured in the weft. One set of coloured stripes is thus imposed upon another: and in designing the colours of the pattern, no selection beyond what is afforded by the judicious arrangement of these stripes can be made. The full number of colors is thus very limited; and these can only be obtained where the weft transverses the warp of the same colour.” (The Art of Weaving)

            Designs for ingrain carpet were most often simple, small geometrics during the use of the drawloom prior to the invention of the jacquard attachment[xi] . After the jacquard attachment, designs included complex geometrics, floral, and patriotic motifs. Colors were frequently bright and contrasting.

Triple or three ply carpet is similar except there are three sets of webs being woven to create the pattern. The third set of threads gives a greater variety to the color of the carpet. Period writings suggest most believed that three ply was a stronger more durable carpet than two-ply carpet.

Venetian Carpet

            Venetian is a less expensive ingrain carpet often reserved for use in halls and on stairs[xii] as well as servants’ rooms and private sitting rooms. There were two types of Venetian carpet available, common and damask. Common Venetian carpets were colorfully striped. Damask Venetians were checked.

Venetian carpet was woven in narrow strips 18 inches to 36 inches wide. Venetian carpet was considered inferior to ingrain carpet in quality due to lower durability and limited design options.  They were manufactured in both Europe and the United States with no confirmed historical connection with Venice, Italy.     

List Carpet

            List carpet was a manufactured and domestically made flat weave carpet using rag fabric for the weft over linen, wool, or cotton warp. This carpet was made on a simple loom in strips. The width of the carpet strips depended on the width of the loom. The carpets could be a single woven width or several narrower strips sewn together. The pattern of the carpet was either striped or checked depending on the colors of rags and weft threads. I suspect the US census report does not include or at least does not include all list carpet produced because other period sources indicate list or rag carpet manufactured in locations not included in the census. For example, the Official Catalogue of the New York Exhibition of the Industry of All Nations in 1853 lists a specimen of list carpet manufactured by John M. Nicholas in St. Louis, Missouri. I do not know if this discrepancy is due to the cottage nature of some of the list carpet manufacture or the type of carpet itself.

 

Pile Carpet     

            A pile carpet is a woven carpet with parts of the weave rising above the base of the carpet creating a soft or looped pile.

Brussels 

            Brussels carpet is a looped pile woven carpet. While the carpet is woven, worsted wool warp threads are held in loops by wires while linen or cotton warp and weft lock the loops in place. We only see the looped pile on the surface while the linen or cotton base is unseen. The design of the carpet is created with the various colored loops on the surface of the carpet.

“The Brussels carpet is distinguished from the common one by having a raised pile, and by the circumstance that the figures and colours are entirely produced from the warp. The pile is raised by inserting a wire between the body of the warp and the previously raised colouring threads. These threads descend and are fixed by the weft, which is of linen, two picks being given before the insertation of each wire, and these picks are called binders, and after a few repetitions of the process the wires are withdrawn, taking care that the wires be not drawn out too near the face of the cloth: otherwise the looped warp would become stretched, by recovering the position in which it was before the wires were inserted.” (The Art of Weaving)

Wilton

            Wilton is a cut pile jacquard woven carpet made in the same way Brussels is made, except the looped piles are cut as the wires holding the loops are removed. At times the pile is longer than in Brussels. Wilton was referred to as having a velvet look and feel. But, Miss Leslie warns this carpet does not wear well, loosing its rich velvet-like appearance as bits of wool from the cut pile are swept away with each cleaning.

Brussels and Wilton were more expensive than ingrain, Brussels being the more costly of the two. Both were more common in wealthier homes and less common in average homes.[xiii]

Brussels and Wilton used the same designs, the difference being the looped or cut pile. Patterns included small to large florals, geometric grids combined with floral motifs, stars, ribbon and rope knot work, rosette medallions, diamonds, and flor-de-lies.  Original body Brussels and Wilton carpet used only up to five colors to create the patterns of the carpets. Tapestry Brussels and tapestry velvet (Wilton) used a pre-printed thread dyed through the drum printing. This process allowed more than five colors in patterns. Floral designs could now be subtly shaded in ways not possible before. The disadvantage was that tapestry Brussels and velvet were less durable than the originals.

Axminster

            Axminster is categorized in some period writings as a flat weave carpet, in others as a pile carpet. In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, Axminster referred to any English made knotted pile carpet which will be discussed later.[xiv]  The Axminster carpets of the mid-nineteenth century were a chenille carpet woven flat in a whole piece with an overall design rather than in strips. They were made with a two step process developed by James Templeton. First chenille strips were woven with wool. These chenille strips were then woven into the carpet foundation. The chenille fur creates the pile and the pattern we see. The carpets could be woven in a single piece to fill a whole room. According to Winkler and Von Rosensteil, “Templeton’s ‘patent chenille Axminsters’ could be woven up to 33 feet wide; making them the first woven broadloom carpets.” This carpet was a more costly carpet due to its method of manufacture. Fewer were made as well.

 

Knotted Pile Carpet

Knotted pile carpets are made by knotting various colored tufts of fiber or yarns around the warp threads strung on a loom. A weft or set of wefts is woven across each set of knots to hold them in place. The knots are what we see on the face of the carpet producing the endless variety of designs. Knots can be either symmetrical or asymmetrical wrapping around two warps at a time. Knotted pile carpets can be distinguished from each other by looking at their design, motifs, fibers used, weaving technique, and knotting technique. Designs vary in the use of fields, medallions, and borders[xv]. Motives vary according to cultural traditions and decorative fashion. Fibers included wool, silk, cotton, linen, and hemp for the warp, wefts, and pile. Weaving and knotting technique varied with each location including even, semi-depressed, and fully depressed[xvi] warps and taut and sinuous wefts. In describing the Oriental style and European knotted pile carpets, I will focus mainly on the design and motifs since the fibers used and techniques for producing these carpets have changed over the centuries.

Oriental or Turkey Style Knotted Pile Carpets 

            “The Turkey carpet is the simplest in its texture of all carpets, and at the same time is almost unlimited in the choice of colours. Let us suppose ourselves seated at a common loom, and than immediately after having thrown a pick, we commence to tie on every thread of the warp a bunch of coloured worsted yarns, varying the colour according to our fancy. This completed, let two or three picks be thrown, and all well driven up; and another row of coloured worsteds tied one. It is clear that in this way we could produce any pattern and that no more of any colour is wanted than in sufficient to produce the required effect.”[xvii]

            Before continuing to outline the many Oriental and Oriental style carpets that existed in the nineteenth century, I should emphasize that these particular carpets so popular among collectors and decorators now, are the least discussed carpets in period articles discussing house furnishing or carpets. Occasional mentions are made comparing Oriental styles with the numerous above described floor covering. This suggests this class of carpets were not the most common carpet rarely used by the working classes in the mid-century. Due to this, I will include only a very, very brief description of these carpets. Motifs listed are just as sample of what was used for those particular carpets.[xviii]

            Oriental style carpets were and are classified by region of origin:

Persian carpets are one of the most diverse in design. This is due to the large geographic and varied tribes or villages in which they were made. Designs are arranged in both medallion and all-over patterns with motifs including diamonds, hexagons, octagons, palmettes[xix], sub bursts, rose groupings, botehs[xx], and animals. Pictorial carpets were also made. The colors differed from tradition to tradition.

            Caucasian carpets were woven near the Black and Caspian Seas and the Caucasus Mountains. They were, and are still, woven by many tribes. Even though they were woven by many tribes, they maintained common designs and colors. Motifs included triangles, diamonds, stars and stylized, geometric animals such as dragons and scorpions. Colors included bright reds, greens, and blues.

            Turkoman carpets come from Turkestan and Afganistan. They have smallish geometric motifs set in an all-over pattern in a center field and narrow, geometric borders. One common motif was the octagonal gul[xxi] which was often set in rows. Colors were deep shade of red, blue, brown and tan.

            Indian carpets include Boteh, palmette, rosette, and leaf motifs. These are often set in vertical or horizontal rows in an all-over design. (Presently rugs made in India are woven in European, Chinese, and Turkoman styles.)

            Chinese carpets were made since the eighteenth century although I do not have a documented Chinese carpet in a mid-nineteenth century US setting. The unique thing about Chinese carpets is the motives used have literal meanings such as happy marriage, luck, wealth, love, and fertility. These motifs can include stylized dragons, lotuses, bats, peones, birds, butterflies, and clouds. Borders were also distinctive using repeated geometric motifs.

European Knotted Pile Carpets

European knotted pile carpets were produced in France, Spain, Belgium, and Great Britain well prior to the nineteenth century. These elaborate carpets were commissioned by the nobility and wealthy merchants of the time for the floors of buildings.

Spanish carpets, the earliest knotted piles in Europe[xxii], had a Moorish and Muslim influence using a mixture of Islamic and Christian motifs as well as mimicking Turkey carpets. Designs were created with repeated geometric, stylized nature, and animal motives set with moderate borders, Lotto and Holbein[xxiii] designs created with a single warp knot and multiple wefts.

French carpets of Savonnerie and Aubusson (tapestry embroidery carpets) were at their height in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Savonnerie carpets were woven, often by commission for royal residences and notable locations such as the Louvre in Paris. Designs often included naturalistic floral motifs, architectural motifs, and heraldic motifs including coats of arms. These carpets were often designed for specific rooms reflecting the room’s architecture and painting. 

British carpets drew on French carpets because British manufactures took both designs and weavers from the famed French center of Savonnerie.[xxiv]  British carpets were also designed by interior and architectural designers for specific buildings.[xxv] Designs included fans, floral wreaths, floral garlands.

Painted floor clothes

            Floor clothes, or oil clothes as they became known, were both made domestically and manufactured.  Floor clothes were an expensive item in the second half of the 1700s in the United States while they were increasing in popularity in both the US and England.[xxvi] As we reach the 1860s floor clothes become less costly but loose some favor due to the increasing popularity of woven carpets which were becoming more available and affordable. As this happened floor clothes move from the eighteenth century parlor to the nineteenth century kitchen and halls. Soon after, in 1863[xxvii] floor clothes lead to the invention and 1875 introduction of linoleum flooring.

            A floor cloth is made by painting a section of canvas with several layers of paint. A good floor cloth had four to seven coats of oil based paint on both sides.  The design was painted on either freehand or stenciled in the case of those domestically made or stamped if manufactured. The cloth is then covered with a clear varnish. As we see in the following passage from Hale, period authors suggested varnishing a floor cloth after it is laid down.

“Painted carpeting, by the multiplicity of its colors and designs, hides dust and stains, while rivaling in brightness and beauty the productions of the proudest looms, and is, therefore, desirable for chambers, dining rooms and halls – apartments where there is much stepping, but not constant occupation. If, however, canvass carpets are used for apartments what are constantly occupied, as they are deficient in warmth, they should have laid upon them rugs and mats, in plenty, – especially during winter. In selecting these carpets get only the well-hardened and thickly painted – such as are almost stout and stiff – all others are soon defaced. Varnish them immediately after they are laid; and, if they are subjected to much wear, varnish them every spring.”

Due to the many layers of paint, a well made floor cloth can be quite heavy. Designs included geometric grid patterns similar to those painted on floors. through the first half of the century. Within these grid designs were floral motifs. Natural designs such as stones, wood, or marble were also popular. Borders .could follow the rectangular shape of the floor cloth as if it were and area rug or follow the lines of a room more like a wall-to-wall carpet.

Flat weave carpet, likely ingrain. (from author’s collection)

Flat weave carpet, likely ingrain. (from the author’s collection)

Flat weave carpet or painted floor-cloth with rose-floral motifs within a repeated octagon and diamond pattern. (from the author’s collection)

Flat weave carpet or painted floor-cloth with a repeated octagon and diamond pattern. (from the author’s collection) 

Painted floor cloth or floor with a diagonal grid pattern. (from the author’s collection)

Domestic made rugs

“Every family could save old clothes enough in a few years, to make a rag carpet. I must acknowledge, however, in this case, that we got a great part of our stock from a friend. Mrs. Doolittle saw us at work one day and offered to give me a barrel full of old clothes, ‘just fit for carpet rags.’ She said she was sure she should be glad to get rid of them, though it grieved me to see such waste. There were coats that could not have cost less than $30 each, and pants, and boys’ clothes, and one fine cape that had been worn by the girls. With a great spot of paint on it; and the Whole so eaten by moths as to spoil them for anything but carpet rags. And then to think that every moth could have been kept away with a sixpence worth of camphor gum. And that spot of paint, if treated when fresh, with a little camphene, which is always the most convenient of anything where it is used, or with alcohol, or spirits of turpentine, could have been washed out with five minutes’ labor.”[xxviii]

            Directions and advice for making rugs at home are found in many nineteenth century domestic manuals. Each one uses fabric scraps or recycled clothing to make the rug. There are extant examples of domestically made rugs similar to those described as well as some that are not described in written works. These latter rugs were either made following unwritten tradition or were developed without written support. One must see rug is the Caswell rug currently at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. This 13 foot by 12 foot rug was made with wool tambour embroidery. This overall design was made from 78 blocks, including a removable hearthstone, with floral arrangements, cats, dogs, fruit bowls, birds, sea shells, and a couple arm in arm. While this rug is an unusual example of mid-nineteenth century rug making in size and technique, it does show the time a woman was willing to devote to creating a floor covering.

Prior to the nineteenth century these domestically made were not used to cover the floor. Instead they were used to cover tables and chests. Bed rugs were made to cover beds. In the mid-nineteenth century these domestically made rugs varied in use depending on the size of the rug and the intent of the maker. Some, such as the Caswell rug (discussed later) covered entire floors. Others protected high traffic areas such as doorways or in front of the hearth or a sofa. Others were commemorative or decorative. It is this last category that seems to survive for us to see today. As we all know, most utilitarian textiles rarely survive for study.

Woven rag rugs

            This was possibly the most common form of rag rug being made in the home and in some US carpet manufactures. Hale suggests thick pieces of wool were best. The fabric was cut in strips which were sewn together end to end. These long stripes, several yards long, were then rolled into balls for easier use. The fabric strips were then woven through warps of either fabric strips or thick threads. This could be done on a loom if one was available or on a quilting frame. To make smaller round rugs, a large barrel hoop could be wrapped in cloth and used to attach the strips to. The lengths of those woven on a loom, the carpets could be quite long. Looking at State and local Agricultural Society reports we see prizes for the best lengths of rag carpet woven. The typical listing shows carpets woven ten to fifteen yards in length.[xxix]  In this passage below, we see a young lady planning a rag carpet for the parlor:

[quote] “So Lucy communicated to Emily a great project she had formed, which was no less than the making of a carpet for the front room, which was their parlor. Her father had often said he should so love to sit there of an evening if the floor only had a carpet on it, but that he could not bear the grating of a sanded floor.
”And you, Lucy, you a girl of fourteen years old, have undertaken to make a carpet, without your mother’s knowing it, too ; and without any time or any thing to make it of, that I can see!”
”What put me in mind of it,” said Lucy,” was an old great coat which a peddler[sic] gave me one warm day last summer, because he said it was too heavy for him to carry. It was an immense thing with capes and lining, and made twelve large balls. Since then, I have gathered up every rag which has been thrown aside, until now, I think I have almost enough; don’t you ?” and she raised a coverlet and showed a great number of balls made of cloths which had been cut into strips and sewed together.

“Yes,” said Emily,” I should think there was enough to make half a dozen carpets; but you have no bright, gay colors. You ought to have some white and red. I have seen a rag carpet made almost as handsome as the best ingrain.”
”Yes,” said Lucy, rather sorrowfully;” but I must take what I can get.”

“And I know what you can get,” said Emily. “Mother told me only yesterday, that I might give my two last winter scarlet frocks, which are almost worn out and are too small for me, with my old blue merino cloak, to whomsoever I chose ; and I choose to give them to you, and into your carpet they shall go. And don’t you remember, Lucy, how we used to amuse ourselves with looking over the paper rags in the loft of papa’s store, and how he let us take away whatever we liked ? I shall do it again and pick out some nice, long strips of white for you.” Lucy accepted Emily’s offer as frankly as it was made; and glad enough she was to get these pretty colors. Old Mrs. Potter had told her, when she privately consulted her about the weaving, that if she only had some gay colors she could weave in pretty little figures, which would make it look as handsome as a real, boughten carpet.”

“But how are you to pay for the warp and the weaving?” inquired Emily; “and how are you to get it made and put down without your father and mother knowing it?”

Lucy said that she had it all planned out, and that she would tell her one of these days.”[xxx] [end quote]

 

Braided rag rugs

            Braided rag rugs were considered very durable. These were also made from strips of scrap cloth like that used for the woven rag rugs. In this case the strips are folded to hide the raw edges inside of the strip. The strips were sewn together end to end and often rolled into balls for ease of use and storage.  The strips are braided in a variety of simple to complex braids which are then coiled as they are sewn into place. The Confederate Receipt Book gives this simple direction for making a braided mat:

“Cheap Door Mats — Cut any old woolen articles into long strips, from one to two inches broad. Braid three of these together, and sew the braid in gradually increasing circles till large enough.”

Braided rugs were most often circular or oval, though rectangles were possible. Hale describes braiding around a piece of purchased carpet which has been lined.

This next section of domestically made rugs, yarn sewn, shirred and hooked, is one covering several rugs constructed by attaching scraps of fabric to a base material. In creating these rugs the needle-worker was able to be creative and artistic. Designs ranged from geometrics to floral designs to full life scenes. The pictorial rugs often portrayed what the maker knew such as home, nautical or animal scenes. Patriotic scenes were also popular at various points (post Revolutionary War, during the War of 1812 and the Centennial). The designs were as vast as the makers. Most of these domestically made rugs seem to originate in the New England and North Atlantic States and Canada.[xxxi] One interesting note: although magazines such as Godey’s Lady’s Book and Peterson’s  were filled with directions and illustrations for clothing, various forms of needlework, small sewing projects, purses, shoes, quilt patchwork, pillows, etc., directions for rugs, a domestic item, were not included. Instead, I had to look to the domestic advice books of Leslie, Beeton and Beecher for information on domestically made rugs.

Yarn Sewn rugs

             Yarn sewn rugs were constructed on a base of homespun linen or grain bags. Two ply yarn was sewn in a running stitch leaving loops on the surface with the aid of a reed or quill. The loops could be cut on the surface creating a soft cut pile or left with a looped pile. Yarn sewn rugs were popularly made early in the nineteenth century, mostly between 1800 and 1840.[xxxii]

 Shirred rugs

            Shirred rugs are made by sewing strips or bits of fabric to a foundation fabric. The pieces of fabric are attached in a number of methods, chenille, folded-bias, pleated, and patch shirring.[xxxiii]  In the chenille method half inch to 1 ½ inch wide strips of fabric are folded lengthwise and gathered down the center. These strips are sewn to at the base at the fold. The folded-bias method uses inch wide bias strips folded in half. The folded bias strips are sewn to the base closely together causing the strips to stand up. Pleated shirring also uses bias strips. In this method the strip is folded or pleated into a loop and sewn directly to the base at each loop. Knopp says this is the rarer shirring method. Patch shirring uses circles or squares of fabric bunched together. The center of the piece is sewn to the base close together causing them to support each other. Knopp notes the decline in interest in shirred rugs as hooked rugs became popular in the 1850s.

Hooked rugs

“Carpets and rugs of looped work are often very beautiful, and are the strongest of rag carpets.” (Hale)

Hooked rugs are made by pulling strips of cloth through a base fabric. They began being made sometime in the late 1840s. Initially the base was linen, tow, or homespun hemp. Burlap was used for rugs after the material started being made for sack.[xxxiv] Hale describes for us the period technique for pulling the cloth through the base:

“Hold a strip in your left hand under the cloth, and push the book held in your right hand between the threads of the cloth, and thus draw up the strip into a loop half an inch long. Make the loops as close as they will hold in the cloth. The work is very handsome with the loops upcut; but if they are sheared it is as beautiful as velvet. Soft woolen and old silk make the nicest pile. Carpet thrums, obtained at carpet mills, are next best. Old doeskin and broadcloth look very well, and, though they are extremely hard to loop, they are so durable that they are always desired. Cotton rags may be introduced, in small quantities; in fact any sort of rag that can be used in no other way is available for loop-work.”  

The hook used is similar to a crochet or tambour hook set in a wood handle. (This hook is quite different from modern latch-hooks.) Initially many of these hooks were homemade. One hook shown in Turbayne’s book (p149) is obviously made from an early century fork. The base fabric could be set on a quilt frame or a homemade frame. (Embroidery frames do not hold the fabric taut enough to pull the hook through.) After the Civil War commercial patterns were printed and sold making hooked rugs very popular after the War.

Appliquéd rugs

            Appliquéd rugs were often similar in visual design to shirred and hooked rugs despite the very different method of construction These rugs layered pieces of wool on top of each other often on a woolen ground. Some appliquéd rugs were made in blocks like quilts were made. Instead of using a single ground, multiple squares were appliquéd and sewn together. This method may have been used because the maker was familiar with block quilting or because it utilized smaller pieces for the ground.

Straw Matting

            Mats woven from straw or grass were recommended for summer flooring. These can be made by hand or manufactured. Manufactured matting included. Canton and Indian matting were woven in strips. The edges were either turned under of bound with tape. Matting was less common in the nineteenth century than it was in the previous century. Hale suggests using Canton carpet, a straw matting, during the summer because they remain cool, are easily swept and do not retain dust.

  

  

 

 

 

Sample of sewn rug techniques for shirred rugs. From top to bottom bias-fold method; patch-shirred method – round patches on left, square patches on right;  chenille method; pleated method

 

 

A Note from the Author

            Many of us who reenact face the quandary of whether or not to take a floor covering to a historical event where we will not be staying in or presenting from a tent rather than a building. If we do decide to bring a floor covering for a temporary tent home, what kind to take?

Of course we would not take original carpeting of any kind.

Oriental or Turkey carpets are not appropriate for most people’s impressions.

Beyond that, I will admit I have mixed thoughts.

I have tried to consider what people would have taken with them at the time for traveling or for a refugee situation. I can not imagine unpacking a large carpet during a long distance journey. I also have trouble seeing an ingrain carpet or large floor cloth which is nailed to the floor with layers of materials underneath being removed for a quick retreat. If the refugee experience is a long-term one with time for real packing, the destination is likely to be a building else where not a tent. If these people did take the costly carpets from their homes, likely they would be packed for the entire journey.

When looking at the reality of mainstream reenacting where people use tents to live in for the weekend or present from tents, people are going to still want to bring a floor covering for comfort and protection from the environment. Reproduction ingrain or pile carpet appropriate for homes and other buildings costs a price most of us are not willing or able afford for an outdoor experience. Floor clothes, if made by hand, are a practical alternative in many ways. They are generally water-proof and relatively easy to clean. Some can be difficult to transport if they are large. To make a floor cloth, one needs a large enough well ventilated area to apply the layers of paint and varnish then allow the cloth to dry. List carpet, straw matting, or braided rugs are affordable but difficult to care for in wet or muddy conditions. Still a quandary.

PIECES/QUOTES TO SET OUT IN THE ARTICLE:

“Linings, whether of paper or cloth, add to the durability of a carpet. But if between them and the carpet is places a layer an inch thick of straw or dried grass (see that no sharp substances, or very stiff straws are among them, as they would cut and injure the carpet,) then the dust will sift down among the straw, which would have remained on cloth or paper to chafe and wear the web of the carpet. A layer of cotton batting or an old quilt, beneath the straw, gives elasticity to the carpet after the straw has become settled.” (Hale)

“An unpainted floor, without rugs or mats of some kind, is always a great trial to a housekeeper’s patience. It is almost impossible, with the most faithful scrubbing, to remove the traces of muddy tracks or slope from its blank surface (that sets even the shadow of a mark in the boldest relief;) and the most abject scouring is needed to keep the pitiless boards clearly clean.” (Hale)

 

Selecting a Carpet

            Some of us may have the opportunity to decorate our own home of a building for historical interpretation with reproduction carpets, rugs, or other flooring. Helene Von Resenstiel and Gail Winkler, authors of Floor Coverings for Historic Buildings suggest looking at physical evidence from the building, specific documents pertaining to the building and prior owners, and general information about similar homes and families of the time from you are working towards. Documents you could consult include wills, inventories, auctions, newspaper accounts of sales, furnishing receipts, diaries, letters, business directories, local newspaper advertisements, paintings and photographs.


Resources

Bailey, Julia W.. “Oriental Carpets” The Magazine Antiques. Discovery: April 1995; pp578-583.

Beecher, Catharine Esther. Principles of Domestic Science. New York: J.B. Ford and Co., 1871.

———-. A Treatise on Domestic Economy: For the Use of Young Ladies at Home and at School. Boston: Webb, 1843.

Bell, T. F.. Jacquard Weaving and Designing. London: Longmans, Green, 1895.

Beeton, Isabella Mary. The Book of Household Management. London: Beeton, 1863. (Available at www.books.google.com)

Confederate Receipt Book: A Compilation of Over One Hundred Receipts, Adapted to the Times. Richmond: West and Johnston, 1863. (Available at docsouth.unc.edu.)

Depew, Chauncey M. Ed. One Hundred Years of American Commerce. New York: Haynes, 1895.

French, James A.. “The Home House Carpet” The Magazine Antiques. Discovery: June 2005; pp104-111.

Gilroy, Clinton G.. The Art of Weaving. New York: Baldwin, 1844.

Hale, Anne G.. “Domestic Economy; How to Make the Home Pleasant. Chapter XVII A Chat about Carpets” The New England Farmer. Boston: Eaton, 1869

Hashagen, Joanna. “The Bernard Castle Carpet Industry” The Magazine Antiques. Discovery: June 1998, pp868-875.

Johnson, Samuel, John Walker, and Robert S. Jameson. A Dictionary of the English Language. London: W. Pickering 1828.

Kopp, Joel and Kate Kopp. American Hooked and Sewn Rugs: Folk Art Underfoot. New York: Dover, 1985.

Kraak, Deborah E.. “Ingrain Carpets” The Magazine Antiques. Discovery: January 1996, pp182-191.

A Lady. The Workwoman’s Guide. London: Simpkin, Marshall and Co., 1840. (Available at

http://books.google.com/books?id=JCsBAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA1&dq=workwoman%27s+guide#PPA201,M1)

Leslie, Eliza. Miss Leslie’s House-Book; A manual of Domestic Economy. Philadelphia: Hart, 1850.

Manufactures of the United States in 1860; Compiled from the Original Returns of the Eighth Census. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1865.

Milanesi, Enza. The Bulfinch Guide to Carpets: How to Identify, Classify, and Evaluate Antique Oriental Carpets and Rugs. Boston: Little Brown, 1993.

New York Public Library Digital Collection – Numerous Carpet design illustrations and carpet illustrations.

Parkes, William. Domestic Duties; Or, Instructions to Young Married Ladies. New York: Harper, 1831.

Robinson, Solon. How to Live, Saving and Wasting, or Domestic Economy Illustrated. New York: Fowler & Wells, 1860.

Ross, Nancy L.. “Oriental Rugs: A Primer” Consumers’ Research Magazine. Discovery: April 1988; p 14.

Mrs. S. S. AWhat Small Hands May Do. A Prize Article”. The Mother’s Assistant, Young Lady’s Friend and Family Manual Mrs. H. B. Pratt, William C. Brown, Editors, Boston: Stone & Pratt, 1851. p68-90.

Sarirn, Sophie. “The Floorcloth and Other Floor Coverings in the London Domestic Interior 1700-1800.” Journal of Design History. Oxford University Press, 2005.

Sherrill, Sarah B. Carpets and Rugs of Europe and America. New York: Abbeville, 1996.

Tariff of the Confederates States of America: Charleston: Evans & Cogswell, 1861. (available at docsouth.unc.edu.)

Turbayne, Jessie A. Hooked Rugs: History and the Continuing Tradition.  West Chester, PA: Schiffer, 1991.

Von Rosensteil, Helene and Gail Caskey Winkler. Floor Coverings for Historic Buildings: A Guide to Selecting Reproductions. Washington, D.C.: Preservation Press, 1988.

Walker, Daniel. “The Fine-Weave Carpets of India” The Magazine Antiques. Discovery: December 1997, pp824-831.

Webster, Thomas and William Parkes. An Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy. New York: Harper, 1855.

Weeks, Jeanne G. Rugs and Carpets of Europe and the Western World. Philadelphia, Chilton Book, 1969.

Wheeler, Candace. How to Make Rugs. New York: Doubleday, 1902. 

 


[i]  Sophie Sarin “The Floorcloth and Other Floor Coverings in the London Domestic Interior 1700-1800.” (Journal of Design History. Oxford University Press, 2005. )

[ii] Manufactures of the United States in 1860; Compiled from the Original Returns of the Eighth Census. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1865. According to the census data, in 1850, there were 116 carpet factories in 9 states. This number increased to 213, in 1860 in 11 states: Maine (2), New Hampshire (2), Massachusetts (11), Rhode Island (1), Connecticut (3), New York (28), Pennsylvania (137), New Jersey (10), Maryland (8), Ohio (7), and Illinois (4). Values of the carped ranged from $.42/yard from Ohio to $.91/yard from Hew Hampshire. Keep in mind these values are factory values not retail sales values. The census does not indicate which type of carpets were produce in each state or factory.

[iii] available on docsouth.unc.edu

[iv] Vicki Betts’ database is available on her website at www.uttyler.edu/vbetts. Carpets are listed under various names or twists of names for selling points. Some advertisers categorize stair carpets separately. A few mentions of camp rugs are in the database that I haven’t firmly connected with research elsewhere. One advertiser in the October 3, 1861 and October 13, 1861 Memphis Daily Appeal lists manufacturing camp rugs. A passage in the November 12, 1861 Daily Chronicle and Sentinel describes camp rugs under oil or water-proof cloth as being made so it can be filled with straw like a bed ticking.

[v] Manufactures of the United States in 1860.

[vi] Catharine Esther Beecher, Principles of Domestic Science. New York: J.B. Ford and Co., 1871. Catharine Esther Beecher, A Treatise on Domestic Economy: For the Use of Young Ladies at Home and at School. Boston: Webb, 1843. Isabella Mary Beeton, The Book of Household Management. London: Beeton, 1863. (Available at www.books.google.com) Confederate Receipt Book: A Compilation of Over One Hundred Receipts, Adapted to the Times. Richmond: West and Johnston, 1863. (Available at docsouth.unc.edu.) Anne G. Hale,  “Domestic Economy; How to Make the Home Pleasant. Chapter XVII A Chat about Carpets” The New England Farmer. Boston: Eaton, 1869. A Lady. The Workwoman’s Guide. London: Simpkin, Marshall and Co., 1840. (Available at http://books.google.com/books?id=JCsBAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA1&dq=workwoman%27s+guide#PPA201,M1) Eliza Leslie,  Miss Leslie’s House-Book; A manual of Domestic Economy. Philadelphia: Hart, 1850. Thomas Webster and William Parkes. An Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy. New York: Harper, 1855.

[vii] Leslie, 178

[viii]  Leslie 176, Beecher 305

[ix] Leslie 178

[x] Authors suggest using pieces of leather through which the carpet tacks are placed. Hale suggests having children cut up old shoe leather. This protects the carpet from wear caused be the metal tacks.

[xi] The jacquard loom was developed by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1801. The jacquard loom used pasteboard cards punched with holes corresponding to the design of the carpet or fabric being woven. The punched holed in the card tell the loom which warp threads to raise and lower on each weft pass. The power loom was initially invented in 1784/5 by Edmund Cartwright and later improved by William Horrocks in 1813.

[xii] The life of stair carpeting was extended by the method in which it was attached. A length of carpet longer then needed to cover the stairs. The carpet would be applied to the floor turn excess under at the top and/or bottom of the stair case. After a period of time, the carpet would be pulled up and relayed changing the position of the carpet by using the excess length. This method adjusted the placement of the areas of most use on the edge of the steps.

[xiii] Eliza Leslie. Miss Leslie’s House-Book; A manual of Domestic Economy. Philadelphia: Hart, 1850, 173. The higher cost of Brussels and Wilton was due to the lesser length able to be produced daily and the larger amount of wool used in Brussels and Wilton than in ingrain.

[xiv] Axminster has had different meanings at different times. According to Sherril, the term Axminster was a general term which meant English knotted pile by the 1790s. In the later eighteenth century at Moorefield  Axminster knotted pile was on of three quality classifications of knotted pile carpets, the higher being Turkey and Persia. As industrialization of carpet manufacture progressed, chenille Axminster was developed by James Templeton of Glasgow,  Scotland in 1839. This version of Axminster is what was known predominately in the mid-century. Presently, Axminster appears to be a manufactured carpet used in business and hospitality locations.

[xv] Most knotted pile carpets include a field and multiple borders. Many also included a center or corner medallion.

[xvi] Depressed and semi-depressed warps can help identify a carpet because they leave the backside of the carpet with a ridged or slightly ridged appearance.

[xvii] Clinton G Gilroy, The Art of Weaving. (New York: Baldwin, 1844, page 215.)

[xviii] There are numerous books available on Oriental or Turkey carpets. My brief descriptions are synopsizes of the descriptions in Julia Bailey’s  “Oriental Carpets” The Magazine Antiques.( Discovery: April 1995; pp578-58), The Bulfinch Guide to Carpets: How to Identify, Classify, and Evaluate Antique Oriental Carpets and Rugs.( Boston: Little Brown, 1993), and ______________________________

[xix] A palmette motif is a stylized palm leaf.

[xx] A boteh motif is either stylized or natural cone which developed from fruit and floral designs. We most commonly relate it to the tear-drop shape in paisley designs.

[xxi] The gul motif is an octagon shape which means flower in Persian or possibly family or tribe in ancient Turkish.

[xxii] According to Sherril, p29-57, Spanish knotted pile carpets began as early as the thirteenth century.

[xxiii] A Holbien design is an eight-sided geometric motif with an interior reflecting the eight sides in a floral or star pattern. This motif, along with other named carpet motives, is named after a European artist who often depicted carpets with this motif in his paintings. (Sherrill, 18).

[xxiv]  British weavers from Moorefield in the late eighteenth century learned from weavers who ran away from the French carpet center of Savonnerie. The French weavers passed down technique and design to the British weavers. The Savonnerie weavers developed their techniques and design from a seventeenth century interest in Turkey carpets.

[xxv] The well known William Morris designs are from the last quarter of the nineteenth century.

[xxvi]  Sophie Sarirn provides an outstanding look at the changing popularity of 18th century British floor coverings with a focus on floor clothes in her article “The Floorcloth and Other Floor Coverings in the London Domestic Interior 1700-1800.” (Journal of Design History. Oxford University Press, 2005) She also includes a nice description of what designs were used for floor clothes.

[xxvii]  Von Rosensteil.

[xxviii] Solon Robinson How to Live, Saving and Wasting, or Domestic Economy Illustrated. (New York: Fowler & Wells, 1860.)

[xxix] Agricultural Society reports looked at include those for Ohio, New York, and Pennsylvania for the years between 1855 and 1861.

[xxx] Mrs. S. S. AWhat Small Hands May Do. A Prize Article”(The Mother’s Assistant, Young Lady’s Friend and Family ManualMrs. H. B. Pratt, William C. Brown, Editors, Boston: Stone & Pratt, 1851. p68-90)

[xxxi] This could be due to a combination of climate, cultural, and industrial influences. In these areas cold long winters made for many winter bound months with long nights. Woolen mills were more abundant in these areas as well. 

[xxxii] Knopp

[xxxiii] An additional method used in New England at the end of the 19th century and beginning of the 20th century sews wide lengths of knitted yarn to a base. Knopp.

[xxxiv] When reading secondary sources one will see there is much debate about the actual beginnings of hooked rugs including dates, materials and origin of techniques. Knopp cites a list of modern authorities stating hooked rugs are indigenous to North America (p39). Others, such as W. W. Kent, writing in the 1930s and 1940s, believe a form of hooking fibers through a cloth base can be traced back to the 6th century. Turbayne discusses briefly a technique in 18th century Britain called ‘thrumming’ where scrap yarns are poked through a base cloth from the back.

                The dates for the beginning of the use of burlap is also undetermined due to the two decade range of time when it began being used in various parts of the world.

Published in: on August 18, 2011 at 9:27 am  Comments (1)  

Basic Guidelines

For a few years now my “Basic Guidelines” brochure has been a favorite of several groups across the country. I often get emails asking if it can be used for a group the sender belongs to. Of course, I’m happy to share and feel honored that a group wants to use my guidelines for thier members. The printable brochure has been ideal for sharing with new members who undoubtably have many questions. I made a point to fill it with just enough resource links to be helpful but not quite overwhelming. It has been a few years since it has been updated with revised links. So, here it is in a text/post version with updated links. I will be updating the printable pdf as soon as I can.

What Do I Do at an Event?

The best thing you can do as a new person at an event is talk with people.

This is a great way to learn and make contacts. Some events will require you to stay in first person while others allow you to be yourself. Either way, talk, ask questions, learn.

Stay hydrated and eat small meals. The excitement of an event combined with often hot weather conditions can take a toll on your body. It is very important to stay well hydrated. If you are thirsty, you are already dehydrated. You will also find it easier to eat small meals. Heavy food can make some stomachs ill in the heat or wearing clothing you are not accustom to.

Attend informational sessions if they are available. Some events have lectures or presentations for you to attend. Bring a small pad of paper and a pencil to write down questions, points you want to double check, and references.

If the event is located on a historic location or at a museum, take the time to see their collections and what resources they have. It would be a shame to miss them.

At events where you will find yourself at you “home base”, whether that is a tent, house, or porch, be sure to bring something to do. This can be a small piece of needlework, knitting, a piece of sewing, or a book to read. Visitors are likely to ask questions. Tell them what you know and be comfortable saying “I don’t know” when you don’t.

Many new reenacters enjoy seeing what is available at an event, including sutler row. If you feel you really must go shopping please read “The Shopping Itch” first.

Give yourself some down-time to let everything sink in. Some find keeping a journal or writing a letter helpful.

Elizabeth Clark has written several articles concerning hygiene, event safety, and improving your experience:

http://www.thesewingacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/2010Scentury.pdf

http://www.thesewingacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/2010ChildSafety.pdf

http://www.thesewingacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/2010ValueEvents.pdf  

What Do I Wear?

Your initial wardrobe should include foundation garments, underclothing, and a basic dress plus a few accessories.

Foundation garments:

Corset – Your corset will need to be custom fitted for the best fit. You can also make your own corset. This garment is essential for providing you support and giving your dress the right shape. Consider Originals by Kay, Farthingales for sources

Cage Crinoline – A cage crinoline or a covered cage will land between your ankle and calf in length. The circumference will be between 90” and 120” with a round or elliptical bell shape, not a cone. Consider Originals by Kay or Needle & Thread for sources

Under Garments:

Drawers – Your drawers serve as you underwear. These are split and attached at the waist to a waistband. See http://www.thesewingacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/2010Drawers.pdf for free directions to making your own.

Chemise – Your chemise is your upper undergarment. It protects you from your corset and your corset from you. See http://www.thesewingacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/2010Chemise.pdf for free directions for making your own.

Modesty Petticoat – This petticoat is worn under your crinoline. The length will land around your lower calf.

Petticoats – You will want multiple petticoats. You will want two to go over your crinoline which are a couple inches longer than your crinoline. You will want one or two to wear with any dress not worn with a crinoline. These will be slightly longer than the modesty petticoat. See http://www.thesewingacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/2010Petti.pdf or Skirting the Issue for directions for making petticoats.

Basic dress:

One Piece Dress. – You will want a one piece dress. If you choose a cotton print dress, look for one with a gathered bodice, gauged skirt, and long bishop or coat sleeves. To better understand each of these components read The Dressmaker’s Guide to Fit & Fashion and Who Wore What.

Accessories:

Boots/shoes – Accurately made boots and shoes will be an expensive investment initially. You will want a boot with a low ½ inch heal and a square toe which uses eyelets to lace up the front or side.

Stockings – Solid color cotton, wool, or silk stockings are acceptable. These should reach comfortably above the knee to be secured with a garter. Tight stockings will become uncomfortable and cause your legs to swell.

Head Covering – You will need a bonnet for sun protection or social situations. Please read “Types of Bonnets” and “Anatomy of a Bonnet”

Outerwear – You will want at least a shawl. You may want a coat depending on the weather.

Who am I? And What do I need to bring?

These two questions depend greatly on the “impression” you develop. This means creating a character or persona you will portray at an event. At most events you will be free to pick any person who fits into the event. At some

events you will have a person assigned to you that fits the research for that event.

Things to consider while you develop your persona include:

Event time and place – Each event is usually based on a specific town or battle location. Some locations were agriculturally based while others were more merchant or industrially based. This will give a context for your impression.

Economic classes were divided into poor, working class, upper working/merchant class, leisure class.

Employment – Financial status for women almost always depended on the employment of their husband, father, or son. A few women were employed as well. As the war progressed, a woman may have been increasingly effected by the state of her providers employment.

Leisure activities can be important for an impression. Activities such as sewing, knitting, embroidery can be depicted at events.

Social interaction can say a great deal about a woman’s impression. If financially able she may participate in a social movement, religious activity, or charitable acts.

Once you’ve developed who your character or persona is, you will need to decide what you accouterments you will bring reflecting that impression.

Eating utensils – You will need some thing to eat with. The dishes and utensils you choose can depict your social and financial status. Consider china or iron stone dishes.

Seating – Some choose to bring their own seating. If you are a poor or poorer working class person, you will not want to bring a fancy chair. Viceversa, if you are well off, you likely will not have a rude bench on your porch.

Accessories and Miscellaneous– Fashionable or comfortable women are more likely to have accessories such as a parasol or fashion bonnet. A working class woman may be shopping in town carrying a large market basket.

 IMPORTANT – Please pack your filed in Medical form in a location where it will be carried with you at all times.

What do I pack everything in?

Depending on the type of event you may need to pack everything you need in period appropriate boxes or luggage or you will be able to unpack your things from modern containers which remain in the car. For period containers and luggage consider these options:

Carpet bags – There were a variety of carpet bags and other handbags during the mid-century. Some were manufactured while other were handmade. These are easy to pack soft goods in such as clothing. They are easy to carry.

Trunks – Trunks vary in size and shape. Original pre-war trunks should be reproduced for use as most originals are delicate and valuable. Trunks are good for transporting most materials and give some protection against moisture. Large or heavy trunks can be difficult to transport.

Wooden packing Boxes – small to medium size reproduced boxes can be good for packing a variety of items and can protect against moisture. Depending on the wood and what is packed inside they can be heavy and difficult to carry. Construction should use period techniques.

Pasteboard boxes – Pasteboard boxes are nice for storing and transporting smaller items or those you want protected like a bonnet. These can be made with a base box, period wallpaper and interior paper. These are sensitive to moisture.

Cloth Sacks – Simple sacks or even pillowcases can be an easy way to carry soft goods. These are especially appropriate for a poorer impression

What do I need to sleep in?

You may choose to sleep on the ground, on a pallet, or on a cot. In either case you will want bedding appropriate for the weather. Items you may want to consider using:

Gum blanket or painted cloth – If you are sleeping directly on the ground, you will need a waterproof layer to keep the rest of your bedding from getting moist.

Bed ticking or feather bed – Whether you are sleeping on the ground or a cot, a bed ticking or feather bed will soften where you sleep. This item can be bulky to pack. A straw ticking can include insects and be a fire hazard.

Sheets – In variable to hot weather, sheet are comforting.

Wool blankets – Wool, layered under the bedding will reduce moisture.

Quilts – Be sure to choose period fabrics and piecing. A strip quilt is one of the easiest to make. The inside batting can be wool or cotton. A wool batted quilt as the top layer on a bed will also help with moisture.

What do I eat?

It is easier to bring period appropriate foods in period appropriate containers. This way you do not have to worry about hiding inaccuracies. Foods can include in season fruits and vegetables, dried fruits, dried vegetables, dried meats, breads, hard cheeses, dried beans, and period cookies. To store you food consider:

Tin works well for dry goods.

Crocks can keep things a bit cooler. Some have lids.

Fabric bags can carry fruit, vegetables, cookies, etc..

Parchment paper is good for wrapping cheese and meat.

For more ideas on bringing food that does not require a cooler along with a couple recipies, read “No Refrigeration Required” http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com/GAMC/LS/PDF/No%20Refrigeration.pdf

For recipes visit: http://digital.lib.msu.edu/projects/cookbooks/html/browse_date.html#1854

Where do I stay?

At most events in this area you will stay in a tent if you stay on site. There are several options for a tent. (Some events will require all civilian tents to blend in with military tents. This will limit your tent choices to correctly

made military wedge tents.) When choosing a tent to purchase consider how many people will stay in the tent, how much room you will need, how you will transport your tent, and how you will be able to set up a tent. Ridge

poles can be cut in half with a center connecter to enable them to fit in vehicles better.

Wedge tents – These are shaped like an “A”. These vary in height, width and length. They require two vertical poles and a ridge pole. They provide ample floor space with a reduced amount of standing space. Doors can be placed in the front or both the front and the back. Wedge tents are generally easy to set up with one or two people.

Wall tents – These tents have sides with walls ranging from 12” to 3 feet. These also vary in height, width, and length. Taller items can be placed along the walls and you will be able to stand in the entire tent. Wall tents require two vertical poles, a ridge pole, shorter side poles, and numerous ropes. It takes a minimum of three people to set this tent up.

Ground cloth – Tents come without floors. A ground cloth is cut the size of the interior of your tent. This can serve as your floor with minimal protection from moisture and dirt. Some choose to use carpeting instead.

Flies – Flies were originally used over top of the tent to shield it from the sun and rain or as a separate shelter. Many civilians choose to use as a sitting area in front of their tent. Depending on the set-up, a fly will need 2- 12 vertical poles, a ridge pole, and numerous ropes.

Published in: on August 18, 2011 at 8:02 am  Leave a Comment  

Keep it Simple…. Keep it in Budget

Whether sensitive to the economy, saving for a new home, planning for a child’s college or struggling with an income growing slower than idea, we all seem to be thinking about our budgets lately. At the same time we want to enjoy our hobby. This crazy hobby that at times can cost a pretty penny.

For many women enjoying the hobby means a new dress. The idea of a new dress can spark a myriad of tempting ideas dancing through our heads of fabrics, colors, prints, weaves, necklines, sleeves, trims and the like. Before we know it we may have a beautiful dress designed in our imagination that is anything but budget wise? So, how does a woman get that new dress while keeping with a budget?

Keep it simple… Keep it practical… Keep it versatile… Keep it in Budget

Are you asking “What does that mean?”

First, if you have read them, I want you to go read three articles. If you have read them, I want you to go back and read them again. These are Liz Clark’s Assembling the Best Bet Wardrobe and The Cost of Accuracy 2010 (where on page 3 you will find a guide on how to assemble a wardrobe for $20 a month) and my Anatomy of a Dress.  (If the links to Liz’s articles don’t work, they are here in her Compendium)

Now, let us look at that dress that is simple, practical, versatile and in Budget.

This dress isn’t the same for everyone. It needs to suit your age, roles, 19th century social status and kinds of events you attend. Your dress is the dress which will best suit a multitude of situations for you, the dress you can adjust the accessories on to change what it can be used for.

One of the most versatile dresses is a light weight wool dress, meaning tropical weight, nicely fitted for your body with a coat sleeve. This dress could be worn over a smaller skirt support for laboring purposes. Accessorize with a kerchief at the neckline, utilitarian cuffs and apron. If you have a work petticoat, you could pin your skirts up over it. For a look suitable for a woman of modest means going to town, add a crisp, yet simple collar and cuffs along with a Petersham ribbon belt with a mother of pearl buckle and a neck ribbon. Add a plaid wool shawl draped over your shoulders. For a well dressed look of a woman of moderate means, choose a delicate collar and cuffs with simply elegant embroidery for your personal linens. Accessorize with a Petersham ribbon belt closed with a gutta-percha, vulcanite, or cut steel buckle and a mass-marketed brooch at your neck. Select a nice shawl such as a bordered wool or European made Paisley, or opt for a delicate fichu. To achieve the look of a woman of comfortable means, replace your buckle a finer one possibly of gold or silver and your brooch with something like bog oak or other nicer piece.  Drape a silk or lace shawl over your shoulders; a delicate fichu will work as well.

A tropical wool dress may not suit everyone’s needs whether scenario based or personally based. This same premise can be applied to other dresses stretching their versatility. For some who need to be able to wash their dress on a regular basis or who are not ready to look into a tropical wool,  a cotton dress may be more appropriate.  For those who frequent warmer events or who have heat sensitivity, a sheer dress may be a better choice. In either case we can apply the concepts above with the tropical wool dress. A cotton dress made of a quality fabric in a period correct print (mind you quality can be found on a budget with smart shopping and wise saving) can be finished with personal linens in the same way. The accessories can be selected according to the situation as well. A sheer dress can also have its personal linens or accessories changed out to suit the occasion.

By changing out the personal linens and accessories on a single dress you really can go from one outfit to 3 or 4 outfits suitable for a wide variety of occasions.

Published in: on August 16, 2011 at 8:05 am  Leave a Comment  

Why This is Good…. Looking at Clothing

I have the preliminary versions of “Why This is Good…. Looking at Clothing” together.

There are two files – A smaller printable version and a larger Power Point. Each are attached in as PDFs for easy viewing. (Though it looks like the notes for the PP are not visible.)

Why This is a Good Impression – Printable Version

Why This is Good Impression Visual Extended Power Point 

You will notice in the smaller file there are specific types of impressions I want to add when I have the right images. These will be added to the larger PP as well.

If you submitted an image you do not see, this doesn’t necessarily mean it wasn’t up to par. More likely I either haven’t done those slides yet or it duplicates something I’ve already covered. It does seem the more I cover, the more I still need to cover.

If you are in an image you did not submit, feel flattered because someone thought you had a really great impression. If you want it removed, let me know.

Published in: on August 10, 2011 at 11:32 am  Comments (1)  

The Weather Outside is…. Drenching

With this soak-you-to-the-bone weather leading up to and likely through the weekend event,  I am thinking about ways to keep dry. As I think through my list, I realize most of them won’t happen because the bits and pieces needed are buried deep in storage. That doesn’t mean I can’t share them with you.

  • Reenacting events inevitably mean walking, likely through grass or even mud. With wool boots, I find my rubber over-shoes a must. They slip right over my boots covering up to about my ankle. Extant rubber over-shoes were found when the Steamboat Arabia was uncovered. Those made by Tingley seem to be the closest.
  • Just incase, still pack extra stockings or socks for everybody.
  • A wool coat can help keep the wet off of most of you. A long paletot gives you great flexibility in the arms while buttoning up the front to keep you dry.
  • If you don’t have a coat, consider the largest, plain or plaid wool shawl you have. Wrapping this around you will help keep you dry.
  • We talk a lot about parasols in reenacting but not much about umbrellas. Use an umbrella, a period umbrella of course.  
  • Skip the fashion bonnet. Instead opt for a sunbonnet or for a hood. Water can cause a bonnet to soften, warp and even run.
  • If you carry a bag, make sure it is water-resistant. You may want to try a pocket instead. A pocket hidden under layers of skirts can usually stay dryer than a bag carried out in the open. If you must carry medicines or modern technology put them inside painted canvas bags or zip-lock bags just incase.
  • For larger bags, choose one with a heavy carpet and good closure. If it has a leather or painted canvas bottom, even better. Leave the bandbox at ‘home’.
  • You will be happier with your tent if you have sod-flaps and overlapping doors. Also put down a good water barrier under your flooring. I find a wool rug helps control the moisture better than other fibers.
  • Inside your tent let wool rule. Wool rugs on the ground help keep the area more comfortable. Put a wool blanket layer over your cot or ticking first. Be sure it drapes almost to the ground on each side. This keeps the moisture from coming up from underneath. Make you bed how you prefer. Then cover it all with a wool quilt or blanket. This will keep the moisture from getting in during the day. If you are sensitive to a moist pillow, wrap it with an extra wool shawl during the day to keep it dry.
  • Don’t hang your clothes. Put them in a trunk or box with a layer of wool covering them to help keep moisture down. You may consider a layer of wool on the bottom as well.
  • As you settle in for the evening, light a candle or two (safely). Whether the candles really do help cut the moisture or not, they help psychologically.

What do you do if you do get drenched?

  • If you can lay or drape your dress flat that will be best. Hanging it can cause it to stretch under the weight of being wet. If you have a trim that can run, be sure to lay the dress so the fabric does not lay back on itself particularly the trim.
  • If your bonnet get damp, set it up on a hat/bonnet stand. If you don’t have on make-d0 with something like the back of a chair. Do not lay it on its side because it will warp.
  • If your bonnet gets particularly wet, try to blot the trimmings so there is no running water. If your flowers are pinned in or on, consider removing them so they will not run on the bonnet itself.
  • If your boots get wet inside, stuff them with newsprint or fabric to absorb the water. Do Not put them near the fire as they can be damaged. (most warranties do not cover fire damage)
  • If your corset gets wet, layer it inside material to press out any excess moisture. Drape it over the back of a chair to dry.

 

Published in: on August 9, 2011 at 12:42 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Fire Pits

While doing a double check walk through following the conclusion of a recent Civil War event something stood out…. Fire Pits.

Living history events are often held on park property or historic sites. As such, special care needs to be considered when building a fire pit inorder to leave the least amount of damage to the ground afterwards.

Please take a look at these photos and consider what each will look like in a week or a month while visitors walk by.

 

Yes, one may be more period correct. The other leaves less of a ground scar.

Published in: on July 18, 2011 at 1:35 pm  Leave a Comment  

Hats against Bonnets – Peterson’s 1865

My friend, Sue L., found a must share passage regarding the wear of hats in a July, 1865 Peterson’s Magazine.  On page 74 in the Editor’s Table….

Hats against Bonnets.–The attempt to make hats unfashionable has not succeeded. There are, indeed, more bonnets worn: but many ladies still prefer hats: in fact look better in them. The hats are so various that it would be difficult to indicate which form is preferred. Some ladies wear hats more like the high-crowned black hats worn by men: the crown is not quite so high, and the brim is broader–these are the only differences; we have engraved one of these hats. Very little trimming is added; a flower is usually placed at the side, and appears to fasten a scarf, which is twisted round the top of the brim and falls on the shoulders. These hats are made of either black or white sewed-straw, and the color of the veil corresponds with that of the hat. The toquet, with brim turned up at the sides, and forming a point both at the back and front, is very becoming to the generality of faces; a long feather is won round these toquets, and forms the sole ornament to them. The jardinière hats are also worn. These have round brims, which are turned down and bound with velvet, to which is added either a gauze or lace veil. These hats are worn alike by young girls and their mothers, and especially by those who are not sufficiently youthful to adopt any of the faster forms.

Working with Teaching Methods

 Over the past half century or so, educators have worked with a learning pyramid to aid in understanding learner retention. At the top of the pyramid are techniques with the least retention while the techniques at the base of the pyramid provide the greatest amount of retention. Over the years this pyramid has evolved as new techniques develop through evolving technologies.

This Learning Pyramid is my design for techniques in the living history environment. As with the traditional pyramids, at the top are the techniques with the least personal connectivity with visitors/learners. At the bottom are those techniques providing the best connections with visitors/learners. The strata of the pyramid do not represent good to bad. They represent the varying ways to connect with visitors at different depths. The top of the pyramid can give a good over view of a subject, while the base of the pyramid can provide visitors with an in-depth, personal experience and ingrained understanding. By utilizing a combination of the techniques the full height of the pyramid, visitors are offered a  complete experience, which through their choice meets their particular needs.  

 

Let us examine the pyramid from the top down.

Lecture Style Presentations  can include most presentations where a single or small group of interpreters talks to a group of visitors in a stagnant setting such as a classroom, gallery or auditorium, or in a mobile setting such as in guided or even self led tours. (In self led tours, the presenter and setting changes while the presentation style remains the same.) One can also include introductory videos in the category as well. In this technique, the visitor is primarily a listener and observer with the occasional opportunity to ask questions. (I will say in hind-sight of the visual presentation of this pyramid, I would like to have made the top level longer as there are so many formats which fall under the lecture style presentation.)

Self-led Inquiry includes examining original artifacts (or in some cases reproductions), reading original documents such as diaries, letters and ledgers, and looking at original images such as photographs or genre paintings. Self-led inquiry does not include significant guidance from a knowledgeable person or source. Instead, it is entirely learner/visitor led. 

Interactive Exhibits are guided inquiry. These exhibits use instruction, often through text and visual panels or other media, combined with hands-on examination. They are organized to lead the learning and exploration process.

Demonstrations and First Person Presentations are live-action multi-sensory learning experiences allowing visitors/learners to see, hear and smell how something works or is done. These are meant to be interactive (If they are not interactive, they belong further up  they pyramid.) where visitors can ask questions, feel samples, examine tools, etc.. These techniques use multiple senses in connection with a live, interactive education source.

Hands-On Activities and Play to Learn opportunities go one more step beyond the above techniques. The focus transitions from the demonstrator showing how to the learner/visitor learning how. In this technique the learning process is guided according to the project or activity.

Role Playing and Experimental Archeology because wholly learner centered. Here, the learning process becomes learner lead.  Granted, event or site staff are present for consultation and to ensure the safety of participants and the site.

Originals verse Repros

The recent discussion of buckles on the SA led me to want a buckle. Than want of a buckle has led me to revisit the original verses reproduction debate.

I am one who has long since adamantly apposed the use of original/extant garments. Simply handling many garments can cause irreparable damage. It is impossible to wear any piece of clothing, whether a petticoat or shawl, without causing wear and damage.

 I’m also not fond of the use of original housewares in most event situations. Originals are ideal for stagnant museum displays or in-situ museum displays. In each of these situations the items have been placed there for an extended period of time by curatorial staff trained in their care. In most cases, visitors are not invited to handle the items. (Some specially designed exhibits provide for controlled handling with appropriate protection for the collection.) At most LH events items are brought in for a day, two day or week long display or interactive interpretation. The best case scenario will see each piece unpacked from mobile storage, handled gently, displayed, not touched through-out the event, then repacked and stored at the end of the event. While this can seem harmless, when this is multiplied by several events throughout the year and unpredictable weather conditions are considered, none of us can guarantee the safety of any item.

At the same time, I want visitors to be able to handle items in order to satisfy several learning styles. Many reproductions can be used to replace originals such as pottery, clothing or a quilt. But, so much more can be learned from the original in many cases. There are also items which do not have any or adequate reproductions available. In such cases, where is the line for using the original for hands-on education verses a hands-off display verses not using the item at all?

Of course I’m missing several aspects of this discussion this morning. There is the ‘abundance verses rare’ perspective as well as the ‘balanced representation verses over representation’ perspective. I’ve also heard a ‘level of risk’ perspective in respect to how easily damaged a material can be.