What is an Emery?

An emery is a small pin cushion filled with a special sand which helps keep needles and pins sharp.

Emery itself is also known as corundite. Egads, I am about to reference Wikipedia. Check out what Emery is here. As a sand, it is quite fine, nearly resembling a teeny tiny gray powder.

A small amount, because only a small amount is needed, is put inside small cushions. In the cushion, the emery is an abrasive that polishes away the burs and rough spots on your needled. You know when you are putting a needle or pin through a fine piece of silk and something snags? It takes off those things.

The emery we know best to day is the small strawberry that accompanies the little red tomato cushion. But, during the nineteenth century, these strawberries were greatly varied and often made at home.

 As you can see, there were different caps used for emeries – metal, embroidery and fabric. One example here shows that some caps were glued on and in this case lost. (A relief as I was facing the adhesive decision.) 

Published in: on November 17, 2016 at 6:00 am  Comments (2)  

Tonight’s Millinery 

Looking for festive colors for a Yuletide event or Dickens Festival? Or do you just love red and green? 

Here is the winter bonnet for you. 

The red and green plaid is a 100% silk twill. Inside is local, soft wool batting and a black polished cotton lining. 

Find it in my shop. 

Published in: on November 16, 2016 at 9:04 pm  Comments (3)  

Preparing for the Holidays

This coming weekend I will be at GCVM for their Preparing for the Holidays program. You can find me in Foster making gifts for family and friends. Shhhhhh! The gifts are secrets.

Have you wondered what gifts people made for each other during the nineteenth century? Here is a list from  Treasures in Needlework; Comprising Instructions in Knitting, Netting, Crochet, Point Lace, Tatting, Braiding, and Embroidery, by Mrs. Warren and Mrs. Pullan. (London, 1855)

“There are many occasions in life when ladies desire to mark their esteem for a friend by some gift or token; and they are often in the choice of what to give or to work. Hence it is that no question is more frequently asked than, “What will be a suitable present for so-and-so?” or, “What will be the most valuable things I can make for a Fancy Fair?”

In making gifts to individuals, the leading idea is, to assure them of our regard. That the gift is out own production, greatly adds to its value in the estimation of the recipient; and, indeed, there are many circumstances in which, when desiring to show gratitude for kindness, a lady may very properly offer a specimen of her own work, when a purchased gift would either be unsuitable or out of her power. For the same reason, – that it proves the receiver to have been an object of our thought and care, – any article evidently intended for that person only, is more welcome than such as might have been worked for anybody. The following list of articles, suitable for the respective purposes, will be found suggestive:

PRESENTS FOR GENTLEMEN.

Braces. – Embroidered on velvet, or worked on canvas, from a Berlin pattern.

Cigar Cases. – Crochet. Velvet, and cloth applique, velvet, or cloth braided. Embroidered or worked in beads.

Slippers. – Braided on cloth, morocco, or velvet; applique cloth and velvet; Berlin work.

Shaving Books, especially useful. – Braided. Worked in beads on canvas. Crochet, colored beads, and white cotton. (washable.)

Smoking Caps. – Velvet braided richly; cloth, velvet and cloth applique. Netted darned, on crochet.

Fronts for Bridles. – Crest embroidered with seed beeds.

Waistcoats. – Braided on cloth or velvet. Embroidered.

Penwipers. – Worked in beads, and fringed. Applique velvet and cloth. Gold thread.

Bookmakers.

Purses.

Sermon Cases.

Comforters. Driving Mittens. Scarfs.

BRIDAL PRESENTS

Chairs. – Embroidered in applique. Berlin work ditto. Braided ditto.

Sofa Cushions. – Braided or embroidered.

Screens. – Raised cut Berlin work. Berlin work with beads.

Hand Screens. – Netted and darned. Applique. Crochet.

Antimacassers.

Table Covers. – Cloth, with bead or Berlin borders. Cloth braided.

Set of Dish Mats. – Worked in beads, with initials in the centre; border round; and grounded in clear white beads.

Fancy Mats. – For urns, lamps, &c.

Ottomans. – Braided. Applique, or embroidered.

Footstools. – Berlin or bead work. Braided.

Whatnots. – Braided. Berlin work.

Doyleys., – The set – bread, cheese, and table doyleys – worked in broderie and chain stitch.

Watchpockets.

Netted Curtains.

FOR THE BRIDE

Point-Lace Collars, Chemisettes, Handkerchiefs, &c.

Embroidered Ditto.

Handkerchief Case or Box. – On satin, embroidered or braided in delicate colours.

Glove Box. – Worked In beads. Initials in centre; grounded with white beads.

Slippers. – Braided or embroidered.

Workbaskets. – Netted and darned, or darned on filet, or crochet.

Carriage bags. – Braided. Worked in Berlin work or beads.

Purses. – Netted or darned, or crochet; delicate colours, as pink and silver.

Porte-Monnair, or Note Case. – Crest or monogram in centre, grounded in beads.

Embroidered Aprons. – Worked in Brodierie-en-lacet. Braided, or embroidered.

Toilet Cushions. – Crochet or netting.

Reticules. – Darned netting; or embroidery.

CHRISTENINGS

Infants’ Caps. – Point lace, crochet, or embroidery.

Frocks. – Ditto.

Quilts. – Crochet. Bead borders with motto, and drop fringe. Crest in the centre.

Pincushions. – Crochet, or embroidered satin.

Blankets. – Knitted with white wool, in double kitting, – a real “blessing to mothers.”

These are a few of the leading and most useful presents. They are equally appropriate as offerings to a Fancy Fair.”

Jennie June takes a look at the gifting season in her Jennie Juneiana: Talks on Women’s Topics (Boston: Lee and Shepard, 1864):

The Season of Gifts

“Who to give to?” is sometimes a puzzling question; for each one cannot give to all, or all who have claims upon them, and it is sometimes hard to decide between sisters, and aunts, and cousins, and still nearer and dearer relations. Some philanthropic people, who, however, rarely follow their own advice , advocate the ignoring of family ties altogether on these festal occasions, and urge the giving only to those who absolutely need something. But this is too hard and rigid a policy; it may be, and probably is the extreme of unselfishness, but we frankly own that it is beyond us. Give all that is possible to those whose friends are few and wants many, but yield something also to inclination and affection, and the kindly feelings which prompt and demand a fitting expression.

            But who to give to is not yet received a definite answer. First, as a loyal woman (we are talking to women), to those you love best; second, to those to whom perhaps you have done an injustice, if only in thought, and to whom you feel is due some slight reparation; and third, to those who need it. But it must be remembered that the sentiment of the gift is more than the gift itself. A very costly gift is sometimes not half so much valued as a flower, a book, or a kind word; but this is only true of very unsophisticated people. We have seen vulgar women, in garb of silk or satin, who would coarsely express undisguised contempt for a gift which did not come up to their ideas of cost. Such persons are incapable of appreciating a sentiment, and therefore give them nothing, or if that is impossible, let it be a check for so much money, which is the only point for which they care.

            What is proper to purchase for gifts, is a very embarrassing question to sensitive individuals, who desire to do the thing just right, and are afraid of making some mistake or committing some gauche-rie. Between husbands and wives, or in a family circle, such a difficulty can hardly exist, a wide range of the useful, as well as the sentimental and beautiful, being proper to choose from. For mere friends, however, the choice is sometimes very perplexing, notwithstanding that the variety of goods in every department is almost infinite, and books always exist as a dernier resort, although, in fact, they are the most suitable and valuable of gifts. To pretend to indicate those things which are most adapted as gifts to varied circumstances, would be to give a catalogue of every jewelry establishment, dry goods store, and fancy goods house, not to speak of toys, furs, groceries, bonnets, greenhouses, picture galleries, and furniture shops, all of which supply their quota to the generous influences of the season. A safe way is to ascertain a want or a taste on the part of the recipient, and then supply the one or gratify the other, according to means or convenience. Young ladies, or others who have time, and know how to execute the different kinds of fancy work, cannot pay a more delicate compliment to their friends than by presenting them with some pretty trifle of their own making.

PS – Here is a cute story starting on page 143

 

 

 

 

Published in: on November 16, 2016 at 4:00 pm  Leave a Comment  

After a Chat with a Bat

Climbing through an old barn with more stairs than I’ve ever seen is not where I expected to find myself after work today.

But, I did.

Mom texted me.

I stopped.

I ventured into the first room to find a $300 pretty and a $500 pretty. Too pricey for me.

I ventured up a set of stairs, wobbly stairs to a rather dark space. At first I saw a small rope bed that would have been great it a tent. It had a sold sign. As I walked further, I began to step quite carefully. At one point I thought “If I fall through, don’t drop the phone.” How else would I call for help?

That is when it dawned on me. Where is everyone? I carefully climbed back down the stairs, that were of course lined with glass pieces. I could hear the voices. I followed the sound up a narrow, maybe 18″ wide set of steep stairs.

Oh, my.

Four rooms of stuff. Oh, the stuff.

I wandered. I photographed. I saw a pretty. I saw an underpriced Louis Vuitton. I saw a knight. I saw pottery. I saw gaming tables.

I saw a bat. He was just waking up. He wasn’t as happy that humans were in his home. I said hello and told him to go back to sleep.

Then, I went back the pretty. I negotiated. I rarely negotiate.

Home I came to wash up my pretty….

Let’s back up before we go forward.

Do you remember how I dressed the Insurance Office as a Millinery last July? When people came in to try on bonnets and hats, I realized I didn’t have a mirror. The reflection in the desk’s glass simply was enough. I thought about bringing my small Federal wall mirror. But, I didn’t want to bring an original glass and I didn’t want to hang something that heavy. I needed a tabletop looking glass.

I had something like this or this or this or this in mind. I also wanted to make sure it wasn’t too valuable or significant.

…. back to today. The pretty.

Call it a cheval glass, a dressing mirror, a shaving mirror, a breakfast mirror….. it came home with me…. for the price of a couple pizzas, maybe less.

I like the dark wood that has a nice shine and hint of red now that I cleaned it up and polished. I really like the curve of these arms. (I must look up what they are called again.)


It has the cutest little feet and a simple drawer.

It is not perfect, nor entirely original. The glass is not original. It is a modern piece that slides in the top with a back panel. The front on either side of the drawer has been repaired. You can see the amateur mend. On the underside, there are supports tacked in. I also need to fix one piece around the mirror.

I need to take up close looks at the inside and do a some research for the dating. The drawer has dovetail joins that appear to be done by hand. But, some of those pieces don’t show much age. So that may also be a repair.

I am quite happy. It does seem much bigger now that it is home on the living room floor. To go to events, it will need it’s own secure box.

Clara particularly likes it. 

 

EDIT TO ADD:

This is a bulkier, miniature toilet mirror similar in style to mine.

This one has similar arms and feet.

This one has several similar construction aspects.

 

 

Published in: on November 14, 2016 at 6:34 pm  Comments (3)  

Domestic Skills Symposium pt 3 Cali Visits Foster

While I set up for the Millinery in Miniature workshop, Cali explored Foster-Tuffs, the house Grandma interpreted for most of her 27 years at GCVM.

Cali wondered if I knew which quilts Grandma worked on. There are quite a few of them. Then she asked if this is one of the coverlets Peter talked about on Sunday.


“What is this space behind the curtain?”


The house was still dressed for mourning. Cali explored the many details.




Cali thought these stairs didn’t look too steep. She rather liked the wall paper and thought it would look nice on a band box.


Cali particularly liked the display of porcelain, soft paste and pottery. She recognized a few pieces too.

Cali is all ready to teach the workshop.


Looking for attendees and a quick photo together.


A shiny red apple for lunch.


A little hat to add to the trunk.

Read More:

Published in: on November 13, 2016 at 9:49 pm  Comments (1)  

Domestic Skills Symposium pt 2 Millinery on Miniature 

Sunday was the third day of the Genesee Country Village and Museum’s Domestic Skills Symposium, the final workshop day. I taught my Millinery in Miniature workshop, focusing on straw millinery techniques in doll scale.

My workshop was once again in Foster House, on the village green. The kitchen makes a nice space for a sewing circle style workshop. Here it ready to go.


Each participant could choose one of two styles to make.


Here is Cali modeling one of the participant’s hats and showing the little hat I taught with.

Read More:

Published in: on November 13, 2016 at 9:35 pm  Comments (1)  

The Domestic Skills Symposium Pt 1

Saturday was day two of the Genesee Country Village and Museum’s Domestic Skill Symposium, my first day, a day filled with five excellent presentations. (I was at Granger Homestead’s ChrisKindle Market on Friday, a much loved tradition with Dan.)

The morning started with friendly faces at registration and tasty goodies at the bar. It also provided time for some Christmas shopping at the Flint Hill Store and the artisans displaying their handcrafted wares. (Shhhh, I bought mom the middle one and Dan the little on he had been looking at.) It was really nice to have quality wares so easily available. Here are some of the goods offered:

The first presentation, “Cloaks, Pelisses, Mantles, and Mantlets”, by Ann B. Wass, (history and museum specialist at the Riversdale House Museum, Riverdale Park, Maryland) covered outerwear from 1795 to 1845, focusing on showing original garments and comparative fashion plates. She even touched on one of my favorite topics: shawls.

20161112_181453.jpgThe following presentation, by historic gastronimist Sarah Lehman, was “Food of the Dead: A Culinary History of Funeral Food.” While food isn’t usually a topic of interest for me, this framing certainly had my attention. Both the topic and the style captured the audience. I would happily listen to another of Lehman’s presentations and look forward to he upcoming book Eight Flavors: The Untold Story of American Cuisine.

Following lunch, we learned about “The Good, the Bad, and the Beautiful: Cosmetics of Early America” from Katie Cannon, curator of Education, DAR Museum, Washington, D.C. Hearing about the science behind what went into paints and cosmetics was interesting. Many attendees had fun trying out the silk beauty marks, and viewing or smelling the samples she brought.

20161112_181536.jpgThe second afternoon presentation was “Uncovering Coverlets: The Figured and the Fancy.” I always enjoy listening to GCVM’s Curator of Collections, Peter Wisbey present. He walked us through the coverlets of New York, filled with motifs connecting to the area and little clues about their history. It was exciting to hear some of the coverlets could be connected with sales receipts. His end story was down right hysterical, and reminded me of the many stories told by Stuart over the years.

Wrapping up the day was “From Well Drinks to Swell Drinks: The History of Bitters” by Joe Fee, c0-owner of Fee Brothers, Rochester, NY. It was delightful listening to the history of bitters and the Rochester context. It was not so delightful as I learned I really do not like whiskey anymore.

At the end of the auditorium presentations, it was time for door prizes. The amazing Anneliese was first to be called, but she was hard at work in the kitchen. When I stepped out to call for her, my name was called. I picked a special handcrafted something I can not tell you about because it is a gift for somebody.

Read More:

Published in: on November 13, 2016 at 7:00 pm  Leave a Comment  

Tonight’s Millinery 

This winter bonnet is soft and warm, in a pretty purple plaid. It is entirely hand quilted and hand sewn, based on an original bonnet in my collection. Inside is a local wool batting and white jacquard silk. 

Published in: on November 11, 2016 at 9:00 pm  Comments (1)  

Tonight’s Millinery 

How pretty is this pink and green silk?!

Published in: on November 2, 2016 at 7:52 pm  Comments (1)  

A Busy Month Ahead

Back when my days were filled with home visiting, classes, multiple museums, tutoring sessions and volunteer events*, I found the joys of color-coding my schedule. Color-coding was my way of making sure I didn’t find myself driving half an hour east when I should have been driving an hour west. There are times I miss that version of an eighty hour work week that tossed me in bed with pneumonia one November.

This November, though not the same kind of busy, is going to be a busy one. I’m rather looking forward to this….

  • November 5th – The Peddler’s Market – I was so hoping to earn a space at this event. But, it seems no one  has dropped out yet. With two days to go, I will be surprised if I get the phone call. Instead, I will be going as a buyer. This is a nice, often packed, selling event where bargains are to be had at the end of the NY antiquing season. I have a short list of things others are looking for. (This happens to be a year that the Symposium and Peddler’s Market are not on the same weekend.)
  • November 11th – I’ll be heading to my Favorite arts and crafts sale – Granger Homestead’s ChristKindle Market. The front yard of this historic house museum in Canandaigua, is filled with huge tents and decked for Christmas. Inside the tents are smaller tents, each with local artists and craftsman, ranging from painters to wood-workers, doll makers to potters. I am on a quest for a certain item for a gift.
  • November 12th – Is the Genesee Country Village and Museum’s Domestic Skills Symposium. This year’s presenters will be discussing Outer Wear, Funeral Food, Early American Cosmetics, Coverlets and the History of Bitters. Could there be a more information packed day? Oh, and there will be food – “Traditional Mourning Food.”
  • November 13th – Is Millinery in Miniature, my workshop at the Symposium. I will spend the day showing others how to work with straw, while making a doll size hat.
  • November 19th – I will be back out at GCV for Preparing for the Holidays. Making Christmas gifts will be the theme of the day for those of us in Foster Tuffs, on the Village Square. I have several gift ideas in mind to work on while there. I do need to find a bottle, or tin if lacking, in the house for taking the emery in.
  • November 20th to 27th – Immediately following Preparing for the Holidays, I am going to roll into a writing lock down. The week of my Thanksgiving recess I will be finishing the writing and formatting of a new Winter Hood Pattern. (I am also hoping to get the car’s exhaust worked on as well. Our presence is a little too well announced at present.)
  • Weekly – I need to make at least one winter bonnet and one gift item for the Christmas Holiday Shop in my Etsy Shop. I am going to try to have that ready on the 20th as well. 
  • November 30th – All details must be in place for a December 1st launch of the new Winter Hood Pattern.

 

——-

  • My “day job” consisted of home visits in 6 school districts for at-risk families in a literacy program. On the weekends, I managed the gallery, then by a different name, at GCVM. In the evenings, I ran a tutoring center. I was also averaging 10-13 reenacting/living history events a year. I added morning school tours for Mills Mansion. Oh, there was an archeological dig in there too.
Published in: on November 1, 2016 at 6:00 pm  Leave a Comment