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A Hood For Everyday Wear

This is the hood I cut for myself in December. I finally got round to quilting and sewing it. As I am hoping these last two weeks were the depth of our cold, I don’t think I’ll keep it.

It has a cream silk exterior that has applique-esque windowpane padded stripes on it. It is a soft silk with flat slubs. Inside is my favorite cotton lining. Just love this blue & red print. The batting is a super soft wool.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/219178299/victorian-style-winter-bonnet-in-quilted

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Favorite Topics - Millinery/Bonnets/Ribbons

on January 19, 2015 at 6:58 pm Leave a Comment
Tags: Anna's Millinery

The Ultimate Winter Wind Hood

Here we are, the first bonnet of 2015.

This winter hood is taken directly from an original in my collection. The original is a dark, royal blue on the outside with black silk on the inside. I went all black for this one. This is one of those hoods where I really wanted to know why it went together the way it did. All the measurements are as exact as I could get. I kept with the original seam construction as well, right down to the use of salvage which I’ve come to love for its great reduction in bulk. I did make two additional changes besides the color. The original has a piece of half inch broken cane. As it is only a fragment and the pinholes that previously held it only showing in a small area, I could not determine exactly where it ran. I have not included that. There is a piece of black ribbon attached flat along the bavolet seam on the outside that is just off. I suspect it was either added later to cover pinholes from where a decorative ribbon was placed or to cover wear. (Here is the Etsy link.)

Now, I’m sure you are wondering why I’m calling this “The Ultimate Winter Wind Hood.” When I finished it and tried it on, I was greatly impressed by how wind resistant this hood is. The brim comes very forward of the face. At the same time, the ribbons inside the brim draw the interior of the hood down around the head, holding it snuggly and comfortably in place. The photo to the left an show you sort-of how those ribbons draw the interior down.

The bavolet that appears flat and rather long is just right for keeping the wind off the neck. It sits right around the neck so to not let the wind catch underneath.

Trying it on was truly a moment of understanding.

Back to the exterior, you’ll see an interesting combination of quilting. All the quilting is made of diagonal stripes spaced at 1.25″. But, the front of the brim and where it turns under to the inside the quilting makes diamonds, while the mid to back section of the brim is simply diagonal stripes. I happen to really like the way the look comes together. The bavolet and tip both have the full diamonds. (I can tell you, this is a lot of quilting.)

For 2015, I’m going to try to share the time and materials for projects. (which I know may be a little weird since many of the pieces will be available for purchase. But, I really like how others share their numbers on their blogs and for challenges.) So, here we go…

research and drafting – I didn’t count.
Cutting, marking, quilting and sewing – 19 hours
Approx 2/3 yard of black silk taffeta
Approx 2/4 yard of 1/2″ wool batting doubled
4 yards of 1/2″ black silk taffeta ribbon
1 yard of 1 1/4″ vintage black silk faille ribbon
Black cotton thread which I almost ran out of.

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on January 10, 2015 at 9:15 pm Leave a Comment
Tags: Anna's Millinery

Announcing the 2015 Winter Fanciful Utility Swaps!

As I’m sitting here curled up with the snow coming down outside, I am already longing for color. With this, the first trio of 2015 Fanciful Utility Swaps will be all about color!

First, we will pick up the “Greene Swap” we didn’t get to last fall, making it the “Greene & Green Swap”. Then, in the following months, we will swap other period color fabrics.

This season’s swaps will include:

The Greene & Green Swap – For those of us with Susan Greene’s book, Wearable Prints, we will be swapping fabrics similar to those in the pages of her book. (Group1) — For those who don’t yet have her book, we will swap Green Fabrics appropriate to the nineteenth century. (Group2). (Of course, you can do both groups.) There were lots of popular greens of the century, including the infamous poison green.
The Red Swap – We will swap popular nineteenth century Red Fabrics.
The Blue Swap – We will swap popular nineteenth century Blue Fabrics.

What is a Swap?

This is a chance for to exchange fabric with a small group of people. Each group will have 8 people exchanging pieces of fabric. All you need is a half yard of fabric and envelopes along with your copy of Fanciful Utility.

To Participate:

1: Sign Up Day!
On sign-up day, groups will be assigned on a first-in basis; the first eight will be the first swap group, second eight in the second group, etc. **Please be certain you will be able to fully participate by mailing your fabrics on the Mail-Out Date.**

“Greene/Green Swap” – Sign-Up Day: January 20th
“Red Swap” – Sign-Up Day: February 20th
“Blue Swap” – Sign-Up Day: March 20th

2: Mail-Out Day:
Place a 9×9″ piece of fabric suited to the mid-19th century in envelopes for each of the 7 other people in your swap group, stamp them (be sure to double check at the post office, but the small 9×9″ pieces should mail in a regular envelope with a normal stamp), and send them off no later than the Mail-Out Day.

“Greene/Green Swap” – Mailing Day: January 30th
“Red Swap” – Mailing Day: February 28th
“Blue Swap” – Mailing Day: March 30th

3: Get Fanciful!
Use your Fanciful Utility templates and techniques to make a project from the book, or copy your own from 19th century sources. We’ll all look forward to seeing your projects! You don’t have to sew right away, but don’t keep us waiting forever to see all the fun things!

(If you need a copy of Fanciful Utility, you can purchase them from the publisher at www.thesewingacademy.com

Fabric Guidelines:

For the cotton and silk categories, your fabric should be early to mid-nineteenth century appropriate. (If there is a want for an earlier or later group, we can do that.) Prints and motifs should reflect those available in the 1840s, 50s and 60s. Cotton should be 100% cotton. Silk should be 100% silk.
To keep the swap and sewing possibilities interesting, please avoid solids as best we can.
Fabrics that do not work well for sewing cases should not be swapped. These include sheers, gauzes, heavy, thick, easy-to-fray, slippery and stretch fabrics.
For the “crazy swap” category, think crazy quilt in a sewing case. This could include satins, velvets, textured fabrics. Quality synthetic fabrics are invited.

Swapper Guidelines:

Please be certain you can fully participate in the swap before you sign-up.
If something arises after you sign-up that will effect the date you are mailing your fabrics, please email your group so everyone is aware.
If you fail to fully participate in a swap, you will not be able to sign-up for future swaps. (We do understand medical and family emergencies. I need to be able to ensure swappers will receive fabrics when they send fabrics out.)

Q&A

Yes, you can participate in 1, 2 or 3 of the swaps.

Yes, if we end up with multiple groups, you can participate in more than one group to swap more fabric. If you participate in 2 groups, you should swap 2 fabrics.

Yes, you can swap large and small scale prints.

Yes, you can swap now and sew later.

Yes, we would love to see what you’ve made with the swapped fabric.

Yes, you can use your own fabric in your swapped project.

Published in:

Favorite Topics - Sewing Cases

on January 1, 2015 at 4:52 pm Comments (7)
Tags: FanU Swaps

Fanciful Utility – 2014 Ornaments

A special something for my Fanciful Utility readers….

Use your favorite techniques from Fanciful Utility to make something with a modern twist. You can make ornaments for your tree or festive needle-books with these templates. I offer you a pair of traditional spun ornaments and a fun mitten and stocking pair.

Published in:

Favorite Topics - Sewing Cases

on December 12, 2014 at 5:11 pm Comments (2)
Tags: Fanciful Utility

A Winter Hood

Except from “The Romance of a Tassel” (The Christmas Annual, 1860)

We were to have a sleigh-ride, and the principal topic of conversation was, the delightful morning and the promise of pleasure; I was olde enough to feel all the enthusiasm of the occasion, and yet to temper my feelings with quietness. My Cousin Kate and I had been knitting some new hoods, beautiful we thought them, and of a new pattern. As my fingers had toiled through the countless loops, I had only thought what a delight it would be to wear it, and a little vanity was mingled with my feeling, for truly I looked like another person in its scarlet and white border than in the faded silk of my old hood.

All the young girls and boys of the village were to go to this ride, and I knew very well that Kate and I would have the most dashing head-gear of the party and I remembered with pleasure, that Esquire Thomas’s son Chester had come from the city and was to be one of the party.

I presume I tried my hood on twenty times the day before, because, I said, it felt so comfortable, but I had to look in the glass each time to see just how comfortable it felt.

After our breakfast was over, my Uncle Oliver rode up with his daughter Nancy, who had been sent to join in the day’s pleasure. She lived several miles back in the country, and I must acknowledge that I felt too little interest in her pale face and quiet manners, because I thought she was not quite so smart in her ways and dress as we village girls; but I had not an unkind heart, and so I ran to meet her with a hearty welcome, saying “Why, how cold you are; your cheeks at least are red as roses; come to the fire.” My mother with gentle manner took off her straw bonnet, trimmed with its light faded ribbon, and gave her some coffee, and I ran to get ready for the ride. It took me an hour. I twisted my curls over and over again. I asked Kate if I looked well enough. Then I put on my hood – too it off – re-arranged my curls. “There,” said Kate at last, “you look like father’s beautiful scarlet and white carnation pinks, and if Chester does not say so, I will box his ears.” – And what will Chester say of you?” I asked “Oh what he always does. “you most beauchiful butcherfly.” “But is not Chester handsome, Susy? And he is really so good, so manly, so noble, father says, none of your fops – but come, let’s go down.”

Just then my mother with her gentle touch opened the door. I remembered the look she cast on me – it was one of mingled pride and trust – her eye was bright and cheerful, but there was a look so ful of hope for me and trust in me, that I ran up to her with a kiss as hearty as when I was five instead of fifteen.

“Susy,” said she, in her animated but gentle manner, “Nancy has nothing to wear but her straw bonnet. She will be ill if she thus exposes herself to the cold wind. She says sh will stay with me rather than suffer as she did coming here this morning.” “Well I think it’s queer how some people live,” said I, “Never having anything to wear that is appropriate.” But Susy, she says her mother has been so sick, and you know her father is rather afraid of pennies.” “Afraid! I should should think he was anything but afraid the way he hugs them. Well, Nancy can have my old hood, thought it don’t look very well, but it is better than that old straw bonnet.”

My mother’s look changed instantaneously; there was a sad, half reproachful, half hopeful look on her face as she opened the door, saying, “Would you like to have her wear the old one?” She shut the door and went out. What a commotion was in my heart. I knew my mother had expected me to offer my new hood to Nancy, and wear the old one myself; but what visions were before me of Chester and the effect of my hood on him; of the general look of the whole party as they saw me again in that old Silk. Then came to my ear the sweet tones of my Mother’s voice. I heard all she felt, but more powerful was the thought of what would they say to see me looking like an “old dud.”

I believe I should yielded to the selfishness of my heart if Kate had not spoken.

“I think it is absurd for your mother to ask it; of course you will wear your own things.” Her tone and manner brought to me my Mother’s hopeful trust in me, for she had called her absurd and I knew she was anything but that.

“Of course I shall,” said I, and I ran from the room with swift step. I tore my hood from my head on the way. “Here Nancy,” said I, “You must wear my hood this once, it is so warm and perhaps your father will get you worsted to knit one – Wont you Uncle Oliver? It only costs a dollar., and just see how fine it looks.”

Continue reading on page 100…

Published in:

Favorite Topics - Millinery/Bonnets/Ribbons

on December 8, 2014 at 6:00 am Comments (1)

The Winner of the 12 Days Of “Christmas” Give-Away

I hope you have all enjoyed my 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away.

The Winner is:

Lisa Lindsey

For the First Day of the the 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away….. A blue paisley sewing box

For the Second Day of the the 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away….. A Bodkin to go in your sewing box

For the Third Day of the the 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away….. A Thread Winder to go in your sewing box

For the Fourth Day of the the 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away….. A Decorative Sewing Wax for in your sewing box

For the Fifth Day of the the 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away….. Add a Pin Ball to hold your pins

For the Sixth Day of the the 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away….. A Wooden Needle-Case

For the Seventh Day of the the 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away….. Now that your sewing box is full…. You might want to make something of your own. In that case, you will need some Pretty Period Cottons.

For the Eighth Day of the the 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away….. You will want a Bundle of Silks as well

For the Ninth Day of the the 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away….. You will need some Paste Board to work with

For the Tenth Day of the the 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away….. You have to have some Templates for Needle-books

For the Eleventh Day of the the 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away….. Of course, you will need some Wool for Pages

For the Twelfth Day of the the 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away…..

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on December 6, 2014 at 11:43 pm Comments (2)
Tags: 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away

The 12th Day of the 12 Days Of “Christmas” Give-Away

Today is the last day of the 12 Days of Christmas Give-Away.

I will be drawing a winner this evening!

The Give-Away: