If I Had My Own Blue Box:

Some years back I was asked to revies the Period Impressions’ Straw Bonnet Pattern. These are the notes that were originally shared at that time.

 Initial observations regarding the materials and directions:

– The pattern is drawn for a low and high brim bonnet with a separate tip.

– The materials list includes additional items you will need to purchase – covered wire, thread, Fray Check and glue. Depending on where you purchase these, the cost will be $5-12 for these. 

– The straw plait is extra fine. It is very pretty. I like how the plait can be manipulated. On the brim and body of the bonnet, this plait easily adjusts for tension and width. The plait doesn’t need to be dampened for the body and brim. It does help for the crown coiling.

On a closer look at the plait, I am not sure if this is a period correct plaiting technique or straw splitting technique. Straw splitters make the strands flat to be braided individually or in pairs. The plait is very pretty in design that is fine. The cotton cording on either end is not something I have seen before.

There are some definite advantages to the flexibility of the plait. This is especially true when making the center of the point. But, since it is so fine and fiddly, it could be harder for a first-timer to work with. It would be easier for some one to make the bonnet from plain split straw of the same width. For this reason, I would suggest the buyer to purchase 18 to 20 yards of 1/2″ 5 or 7 strand split straw to use instead. This is more plait than provided by the kit because the amount provided in the kit is barely enough not allowing for error or flaws in the plait.

– I didn’t understand why Fray Check was included in the materials list at first because the plait I have worked with before didn’t fray. As I worked with the plait, I discovered it does fray at the ends. I would rather see the ends stitched together then Fray Check used.

– I like that they suggest dyeing the straw before hand if desired.

– The glue solution works well for a sizing on both the included plait and plain plait.
Notes on bonnet construction: 

– The suggested method of gathering the plait on one side with a running stitch for the crown is nice. The gathering may not work on plain plait. At the same time, I find it easier to coil the crown creating body with plain plait than this plait. This plait is very floppy.

– The directions at row 7 are different than what I do in that area. I start creating height in the brim further back in the crown. I don’t see directions to do this. In the area around row 7 from the front, I would normally pull the sides back a little while pushing the cheek tab forward a little. This usually takes place over 2 to 5 rows.

– It would be helpful for the transitional points to be marked on the pattern; where row 7 should land, where row 16 should land, etc.

– I don’t like how the cheektabs are shaped. They appear to square. (Admittedly, squared cheek tabs were one of my early mistakes.) There should be a graceful curve along the sides of the crown down into the cheektabs. You will want to look at original bonnets to see how the line should change to more of a curve.

– In the final two illustrations and directions, the “fall” doesn’t look to be right. It should reach further along the sides than illustrated. Look at original bonnets to see where the curtain and ties should be positioned.

– I kept pinning the template closed after each row to see how the plait sat. When I work in the round from back to front, I adjust the tension of the plait a good deal. This doesn’t work the same on the template working flat. The back side of each row of plait appeared looser than I would have liked. I started pulling the top/middle of each row a bit tighter.

– I ran a gathering stitch around the back of the body before attaching the back of the crown. This technique gives a nice transition between the two pieces.

– I ran out of plait after binding the raw edges. I would need about 20 inches more to have enough to cover the wire.

– Last but quite significant – When it came to ripping out the interfacing…. frustrated is a gentle word for what I felt. The stitches on the backside need to be very small for the interfacing to come off nicely. 

Additional thoughts:
– This bonnet needs wiring at the brim and sides for sure.

– I am a little worried about the glue sizing and the flexibility of the plait combined with high humidity and/or rain. I think this will be a “no rain” bonnet.

Images:

 I added a straw plait to the inner edge to strengthen

This is a sheer cotton caned bonnet started this past winter. It isn’t quite finished even though I needed to wear it for Candlelight tours. The base is buckrams. The cane is the smallest basket cane. (I think it is #0 or #1) The sheer is a cotton lawn from a yardsale. The flowers are paper flowers. (Sorry I don’t remember where I picked them up.) The ribbon is the 4″ German Moire from the Ribbon Store in sage green.

Things that need to be finished – I want to add a layer of ruche to the inside of the bonnet and add something tbd to the outside. The curtain needs to get removed and reattached with the net. The ties are just last minute make-dos tacked on. (way to long and not the white silk I want.)

I’m noticing I was a little tilted in the pictures. Sorry.

UPDATE MARCH 2015:

From Field to Fashion is now available as an Ebook!

With rising printing costs, I have decided to make From Field to Fashion: The Straw Bonnet available in an electronic format. In the new format, I have been able to price From Field to Fashion at a fraction of the printed price. My hope is this will make FFtF easily accessible as well as informative.  Please visit my Etsy store to order your From Field to Fashion.

UPDATE 2011: Out of Print

From Field to Fashion is a 46 page booklet with the following sections:
– Straw Bonnets and the Straw Bonnet Industry
– Straw, Harvest and Preparation
– Straw Plait
– Straw Cloth
– The Straw Bonnet Base
– Industry and Labor
– Finishing the Straw Bonnet
– Who Wore a Straw Bonnet When?
and an Appendix:
1 – Original Bonnets Online
2 – Bonnet Production in Massachusetts, 1855
3 – Millinery Establishments by State, 1860
4 – Straw Bonnet Shapes
5 – Fashion Quotes from Harper’s Monthly & Weekly
6 – Fashion Quotes from Godey’s Ladies Book
7 – Straw bonnet quotes from fiction
8 – Wheat and Rye produced, 1850 & 1860
9 – Straw Industry Statistics
10 – Straw and Bonnet Related US Patents

I am moving. Where I am going my straw plait will dry out. I don’t think it will do well in storage either. So……. I have 8 to 10 lengths of straw plait for bonnets. I think $12 per bonnet length should let me ship them priority mail. The plait is just under 1/2 inch wide. This is a good width for making a first bonnet yourself.

Send me an email or comment if you are interested.

I’ll be thinning out my excess reenacting stuff a little faster than I thought. So, I’m hoping to still get things up on a yardsale page. I know there are a several smaller wooden bowls I found in a box of stuff I forgot I owned. If there is something you know I have that you really want, send me a message.

The Lady’s Receipt-book: A Useful Companion for Large Or Small Families

By Eliza Leslie

Published by Carey and Hart, 1847

BONNETS.—Before you send a straw bonnet to be whitened, it will be well to remove whatever stains or grease marks may be upon it. Do this yourself, as many professed bonnet-cleaners are either unacquainted with the best methods, or careless of taking the trouble; and will tell you, afterwards, that these blemishes would not Come out. You can easily remove grease marks from a straw, leghorn, or Florence braid bonnet, by rubbing the place with a sponge dipped in fresh camphine oil; or by wetting it with warm water, and then plastering on some scraped Wilmington clay, or grease-ball; letting it rest half an hour, and then repeating the application till the grease has disappeared. Magnesia rubbed on dry will frequently remove grease spots, if not very bad. To take out stains, discoloured marks, or mildew, moisten slightly with warm water some stain powder composed of equal portions of salt of sorrel and cream of tartar, well mixed together. Rub on this mixture with your finger. Let it rest awhile ; then brush it off, and rub on more of the powder. When the stain has disappeared, wash off the powder, immediately, and thoroughly, with warm water. By previously using these applications, no trace of grease or stain will remain on the bonnet, after it has undergone the process of whitening and pressing in the usual manner.

In cleaning straw bonnets it is best to give them as much gloss and stiffening as possible. The gloss will prevent dust from sticking to the surface, and the stiffness will render them less liable to get out of shape when worn in damp weather. For a similar reason, the wire round the inside of the edge should in all bonnets be very thick and stout. If the wire is too thin, even the wind will blow the brim out of shape.

An excellent way of cleaning and whitening straw or leghorn bonnets may be found in the House Book, page 67.

In lining bonnets, always fit the lining on the outside of the brim. It is not only the least troublesome way, but the most certain of success. Nothing is more disfiguring to a bonnet than an uneven puckered lining— left too loose in some places, and stretched too tight in others. If the lining is drawn more to one side than the other, the brim will always set crookedly round the face. The best way, is first to fit upon the outside of the bonnet-front, a piece of thin, soft, white paper, pinning it on smoothly and evenly, with numerous pins. Then cut it the proper shape ; allowing it rather more than an inch all round larger than the brim. From this paper cut out the silk lining; allowing still more for turning in at the edges, on account of the silk ravelling. Then (having notched the edge of the lining all round) baste it on the inside of the brim, and try it on before the glass, previous to sewing it in permanently. See that it is perfectly smooth and even throughout. A white silk bonnet-lining should be of the most decided white, (a dead white, as it is called,) for if it has the least tinge of pearl, rose, blue or yellowish-white, it will be unbecoming to any face or complexion. Straw bonnets are frequently lined with white crape or tarletane.

The lining of a silk or velvet bonnet should always be put in before the brim is sewed to the crown.

In trimming a bonnet, after the bows, bands, &c., have all been arranged with pins, sew them on with a needle and thread; and afterwards withdraw the pins. If pins are allowed to remain in, they leave a greenish speck wherever they have been; besides denting the straw, and probably tearing it. Also, sew on the flowers, after you have arranged them to your satisfaction.

Bonnet strings when somewhat soiled may be cleaned by rubbing them with scraped Wilmington clay, or grease-ball, or else magnesia. Roll them on a ribbon- block with the clay upon them; let them rest a few hours ; then brush off that clay, and put on some fresh. Roll the ribbon again on the block, and leave it till next day. You will find it look much cleaner. It is well always to buy an extra yard, or yard and a half of ribbon, to replace with new ones the bonnet strings when soiled.

To keep the bows of a bonnet in shape when put away in the bandbox, fill out each bow by placing rolls of wadding inside of all the loops.

‘A piece of thin oiled silk introduced between the lining and the outside, partly beneath the upper part of the brim, and partly at the lower part of the crown, will prevent any injury to the bonnet from perspiration of the head, or oiliness of the hair.

In bespeaking a bonnet of a milliner, always request her to send you the frame to try on, before she covers it; that you may see if it fits.

When a bonnet is to be sent to a distant place in a wooden box, (bandboxes should never visibly travel,) to keep the bonnet steady, and prevent its tumbling or knocking about, sew very securely to the brim and back, some bits of strong tape, and fasten the other end of each bit of tape to the floor of the box, with very small tack nails. Fill all the loops and bows with wadding as above mentioned. A bonnet thus secured may travel uninjured from Maine to Texas.

TO KEEP A BONNET WHITE.—If you have a white velvet or silk bonnet that looks well enough to wear a secon^J season, lay beside it in the bandbox a cake of white wax, (such as you get at an apothecary’s for sixpence or a shilling,) cover the bandbox closely, and do not on any account open it till you are about to take the bonnet again into wear. You will then find the cake of wax much discoloured, but the bonnet as white as ever. Shawls of white silk or canton crape, or indeed any white articles, may be kept in the same manner by putting a. cake of white wax in the box with them, and not opening it so as to admit the external air, till the season for wearing them has returned.

In bespeaking bandboxes, desire that they shall not be lined with white paper. A lining of the coarsest brown paper is far preferable for preserving either the colours or the whiteness of any articles that are kept in them. The chloride of lime used in manufacturing white paper is very injurious to the colours of silks, and frequently causes in them spots and stains. The very coarse thick brown paper made of old ropes is far better; as the tar remaining about it partakes somewhat of the qualities of turpentine, and is therefore a preservative to colours. White ribbons, blonds, &c., should be kept wound on ribbon-blocks, and – wrapped in the coarse brown ironmonger’s paper. ‘ .