This week has been quite the straw filled week. I can show you the bonnets that are for sale. I can’t show you what is already spoken for because owners get to see that progress first.
This is an 1850s bonnet for a slightly smaller head. 
Moving into the 1860s… Here is a child’s bonnet
Here is the Marie Stuart several people asked for. This was quite to fussy shape to work with.
These are a pair of 1880s bonnets that were my first adventure into the era.
I’m a little behind schedule, well my ‘hoped schedule’, by three quarters of a day. I have 4 bonnets drying and 2 bonnets getting wired as of this afternoon.
The slight delay is a combination of the freak weather causing yesterday’s errands to take longer, one cranky bonnet giving me symmetry issues and the silly notion that I would throw a Marie Stuart into the mix.
Here is the batch drying – A mix of eras including a 50s commission, late 50s/early 60s, and two 80s, one from an advert and the other an original.
From Trials and Confessions of an American Housekeeper. Philadelphia, 1854
I Have a pleasant story to relate of a couple of fashionables of our city, which, will serve to diversify these “Confessions,” and amuse the reader. To the incidents, true in the main, I have taken the liberty of adding some slight variations of my own.
A lady of some note in society, named Mrs. Claudine, received a very beautiful bonnet from New York, a little in advance of others, and being one of the rival leaders in the fashionable world, felt some self-complacency at the thought of appearing abroad in the elegant head-gear, and thereby getting the reputation of leading the fashion.
Notwithstanding Mrs. Claudine’s efforts to keep the matter a secret, and thus be able to create a surprise when she appeared at church on the next Sunday, the fact that she had received the bonnet leaked out, and there was some excitement about it. Among those who heard of the new bonnet, was a Mrs. Ballman, who had written to a friend to get for her the very article obtained first by Mrs. Claudine. From some cause or other a delay had occurred, and to her chagrin she learned that a rival had the new fashion, and would get the eclat that she so much coveted. The disappointment, to one whose pleasures in life are so circumscribed as those of a real fashionable lady, was severe indeed. She did not sleep more than a few hours on the night after she received the mortifying intelligence.
The year before, Mrs. Claudine had led the fashion in some article of dress, and to see her carry off the palm in bonnets on this occasion,
when she had striven so hard to be in advance, was more than Mrs. Ballman could endure. The result of a night’s thinking on the subject was a determination to pursue a very extraordinary course, the nature of which will be seen. By telegraph Mrs. Ballman communicated with her friend in New York, desiring her to send on by the evening of the next day, which was Saturday, the bonnet she had ordered, if four prices had to be paid as an inducement to get the milliner to use extra exertions in getting it up. In due time, notice came back that the bonnet would be sent on by express on Saturday, much to the joy of Mrs. Ballman, who from the interest she felt in carrying out her intentions, had entirely recovered from the painful disappointment at first experienced.
Saturday brought the bonnet, and a beautiful one it was. A few natural sighs were expended over the elegant affair, and then other feelings came in to chase away regrets at not having been first to secure the article.
On the day previous, Friday, Mrs. Ballman called upon a fashionable milliner, and held with her the following conversation.
“You have heard of Mrs. Claudine’s new bonnet, I presume V
“Yes, madam,” replied the milliner.
“Do you think it will take?” asked Mrs. Ballman.
“I do.”
“You have not the pattern?”
“Oh, yes. I received one a week ago.”
“You did!”
“Yes. But some one must introduce it. As Mrs. Claudine is about doing this there is little doubt of its becoming the fashion, for the style is striking as well as tasteful.”
Mrs. Ballman mused for some moments. Then she drew the milliner aside, and said, in a low, confidential tone.
“Do you think you could get up a bonnet as handsome as that, and in just as good taste?”
“I know I could.” In my last received London and Paris fashions are several bonnets as handsome as the one that is about being adopted in New York, and here also without doubt.”
“I am not so sure of its being adopted here,” said the lady.
“If Mrs. Claudine introduces it, as I understand she intends doing on Sunday, it will certainly be approved and the style followed.”
“I very much doubt it. But we will see. Where are the bonnets you spoke of just now?”
The milliner brought forth a number of pattern cards and plates, and pointed out two bonnets, either of which, in her judgment, was more beautiful than the one Mrs. Claudine had received.
“Far handsomer,” was the brief remark with which Mrs. Ballman approved the milliner’s judgment. “And now,” she added, “can you get me up one of these by Sunday?”
“I will try.”
“Try won’t do,” said the lady, with some excitement in her manner. “I must have the bonnet. Can you make it?”
“Yes.”
“Very well. Then make it. And let it be done in your very best manner. Why I wish to have this bonnet I need hardly explain to you. I believed that I would have received the bonnet, about to be adopted in New York, first. I had written to a friend to procure it; but, by some means, Mrs. Claudine has obtained her’s in advance of me. Mine will be here to-morrow, but I don’t mean to wear it. I wish to lead.”
“If you were both to appear in this bonnet, the fashion would be decided,” said the milliner.
“I know. But I have no wish to share the honor with Mrs. Claudine. Make me the bonnet I have selected, and I will see that it puts her’s down.”
“You will remember,” said the milliner, ” that her’s has been already adopted in New York. This will be almost sure to give it the preference. It would be better that you did not attempt a rivalry, than that you should be beaten.”
“But I don’t mean to be beaten,” replied the lady. “I have taken measures to prevent that. After Sunday you will hear no more of the New York bonnet. Mine will go, and this, I need not tell you, will be a feather in your cap, and dollars in your pocket; as I will refer to you as the only one who can get it up. So do your best, and improve the pattern we have selected, if it will bear improvement.”
The milliner promised to do her “prettiest,” and Mrs. Ballman returned home in a state of considerable elation at the prospect of carrying off the palm, and humiliating her. rival at the same time.
Mrs. Claudine, though a little vain, and fond of excelling, was a woman of kind feelings, and entirely superior to the petty jealousies that annoyed Mrs. Ballman, and soured her towards all who ‘succeeded in rivalling her in matters of taste and fashion. Of what was passing in the mind of the lady who had been so troubled at her reception of a new style of bonnet from New York, she was entirely ignorant. She was not even aware that Mrs. Ballman had ordered the same article, nor that she had suffered a disappointment.
Saturday came. Mrs. Claudine was busy over some little article of dress that was to add to her appearance on the next day, when an Irish girl, who had formerly lived with her, entered her room.
“Ah! Kitty!” said the lady pleasantly. “How do you do?’
“I’m right well, mum, thankee,” replied Kitty, with a courtesy.
“Where do you live now, Kitty?” inquired Mrs. Claudine.
“I’m living with Mrs. Ballman,” said the girl.
“A very good place, I have no doubt.”
“Oh, yes, mum. It is a good place. I hain’t much to do, barrin’ going out with the children on good days, and seein’ after them in the house; and I get good wages.”
“I’m very glad to hear it, Kitty; and hope you will not give up so good a home.”
“No, indeed, mum; and I won’t do that. But Mrs. Claudine—”
Kitty’s face flushed, and she stammered in her speech.
“What do you wish to say?” inquired the lady, seeing that Kitty hesitated to speak of what was on her mind.
“Indade, mum,” said Kitty, evincing much perplexity, “I hardly know what I ought to do. But yez were good to me, mum, when I was sick, and didn’t send me off to the poor house like some girls are sent; and I never can forget yez while there’s breath in me body. And now I’ve come to ask yez, just as a favor to me, not to wear that new bonnet from New York, to-morrow.”
It was some moments before the surprise, occasioned by so novel and unexpected a request, left Mrs. Claudine free to make any reply.
“Why, Kitty!” she at length exclaimed, “what on earth can you mean?”
“Indade, mum, and yez mustn’t ask me what I mane, only don’t wear the bonnet to church on the morrow, because—because—och, indade, mum, dear! I can’t say any more. It wouldn’t be right.”
Mrs. Claudine told Kitty to sit down, an invitation which the girl, who was much agitated, accepted. The lady then remained silent and thoughtful for some time.
“Kitty,” she remarked, at length, in a serious manner, “what you have said to me sounds very strangely. How you should know that I intended appearing in a new bonnet to-morrow, or why you should be so much interested in tbe matter is more than I can understand. As to acting as you desire, I see no reason for that whatever.”
This reply only had the effect of causing Kitty to urge her request more strenuously. But she would give no reason for her singular conduct. After the girl had gone away, Mrs. Claudine laid aside her work—for she was not in a state of mind to do any thing but think—and sat for at least an hour-, musing upon the strange incident which h%d occurred. All at once, it flashed upon her mind that there must be some plot in progress to discredit or rival her new bonnet, which Kitty had learned at Mrs. Ballman’s. The more she thought of this, the more fully did she become satisfied that it must be so. She was aware that Mrs. Ballman had been chagrined at her leading ofl’ in new fashions once or twice before; and the fact, evident now, that she knew of her reception of the bonnet, and Kitty’s anxiety that she should not wear it on Sunday, led her to the conviction that there was some plot against her. At.first, she determined to appear in her new bonnet, disregardful of Kitty’s warning. But subsequent reflection brought her to a different conclusion.
The moment Mrs. Claudine settled it in her mind that she would not appear in the new bonnet, she began dressing herself, hurriedly, to go out. It was as late as five o’clock in the afternoon when she called at the store of the milliner who had been commissioned by Mrs. Ballman to get the rival bonnet.
“Have you the last fashions from abroad?” enquired Mrs. Claudine.
“We have,” replied the milliner.
“Will you let me see them?”
“Certainly, ma’am.”
And the patterns were shown. After examining them carefully, for some time, Mrs. Claudine selected a style of bonnet that pleased her fancy, and said—
“You must get me up this bonnet so that I can wear it to-morrow.”
“Impossible, madam!” replied the milliner. “This is Saturday evening.”
“I know it is; but for money you can get one of your girls to work all night. I don’t care what you charge; but I must have the bonnet.”
The milliner still hesitated, and seemed to be confused and uneasy. She asked Mrs. Claudine to sit down and wait for a little while, and then retired to think upon what she had better do. The fact was, Mrs. Claudine had pitched upon the very bonnet Mrs. Ballman had ordered, and her earnestness about having it made in time i to wear on the next day, put it almost beyond
her power to say no. If she were to tell her that Mrs. Ballman had ordered the same bonnet, it would, she knew, settle the matter. But, it occurred to her, that if both the ladies were to appear at church in the same style of bonnet, the fashion would be sure to take, and she, in consequence, get a large run of business. This thought sent the blood bounding through the milliner’s veins, and decided her to keep her own counsel, and take Mrs. Claudine’s order.
“She’s as much right to the bonnet as Mrs. Ballman,” settled all ethical questions that intruded themselves upon the milliner.
“I will have it ready for you,” she said, on returning to Mrs. Claudine.
“Very well. But mind,” said the lady, “I wish it got up in the very best style. The hurry must not take from its beauty. As for the price, charge what you please.”
The milliner promised every thing, and Mrs. Claudine went home to think about the important events of the approaching Sabbath. On Sunday morning both bonnets were sent home, and both the ladies fully approved the style, effect, and all things appertaining to the elegant affairs.
At ten o’clock, Kitty, who was a broad-faced, coarse-looking Irish girl, came into the chamber of Mrs. Ballman, dressed up in her best, which was not saying much for the taste and elegance of her appearance.
“Are you all ready?” asked her mistress.
“Yes, mum.”
** Very well, Kitty, here’s the bonnet. Now, remember, you are to go into the pew just in front of ours. The Armburner’s are all out of town, and there will be no one to occupy it.”
Kitty received the elegant bonnet which had come on express from New York, and placed it upon her head.
“You really look charming,” said the lady.
But Kitty was not nattered by her words, and evinced so little heart in what she was doing, that Mrs Ballman said to her, in a half threatening tone, as she left the room—
“Mind, Kitty, I shall expect to see you at church.”
“Oh, yes, mum; I’ll be there,” replied Kitty, courtesying awkwardly, and retiring.
Not long after Kitty had retired, Mrs. Ballman, after surveying, for many minutes, the effect of her new bonnet, becoming more and more pleased with it every moment, and more and more satisfied that it would “take,” left her room, and was descending the stairs for the purpose of joining the family, who were awaiting her below. Just at that unlucky moment, a servant, who was bringing down a vessel of water, slipped, and a portion of the contents came dashing over the head and shoulders of the richly attired lady, ruining her elegant bonnet, and completely destroying the happy frame of mind in which she was about attending public worship. No wonder that she cried aloud from the sudden shock and distress so untoward an event occasioned; nor that she went back weeping to her chamber, and refused to be comforted.
Mr. Ballman and the children proceeded alone
to church on that day. On their return home, they found the lady in a calmer frame of mind. . But Mr. Ballman looked grave and was unusually silent. Kitty came home and gave up her elegant head-dress; and when her mistress told her that she might keep it, she thanked her, but declined the present.
“You went to church, of course,” she said.
“Oh, yes, mum,” replied Kitty.
“And sat in the Armburner’s pew?”
“Yes, mum.”
“Alone.”
“Yes, mum.”
“Was Mrs. Claudine there?”
“Yes, mum.”
“Did she wear her new bonnet?”
“Yes, mum.”
“It was exactly like this?”
“Oh, no, mum, it was exactly like the new one you had sent home this morning.”
“What!” The face of the lady flushed instantly. “Wasn’t it like this?”
“No, mum.
Mrs. Ballman sunk into a chair.
“You can retire, Kitty,” she said, and the girl withdrew, leaving her to her own feelings and reflections, which were not of the most pleasing character.
The appearance of Kitty at church, fully explained to Mrs. Claudine the ungenerous game that had been played against her. Her first thought was to retaliate. But reflection brought other and better feelings into play. Instead of exposing what had been done, she destroyed the bonnet received from New York, and made an effort to keep what had occurred a secret. But Kitty’s appearance at church in such an elegant affair, naturally created some talk. One surmise after another was started, and, at last, from hints dropped by the milliner, and admissions almost extorted from Mrs. Claudine, the truth came out so fully, that all understood it; nor was Mrs. Ballman long left in ignorance on this head.
As to the fashion, Mrs. Claudine’s bonnet became the rage; though, as might be supposed, Mrs. Ballman refused to adopt it.
Who will be the successful rival next season, I am unable to predict. But it is believed that Mrs. Claudine intends giving Mrs. Ballman an advance of two weeks, and then coming in with a different style, and beating her in spite of the advantage.
A bit of baggage humor from Punch, November 19, 1859:
“Ladies’ Luggage; or Hard Lines by a Brute”
How happy is the single life Of all those priests and monks! Not one of whom has got a wife To bother him with trunks, And bandboxes, a load to gret For man or horse to bear, Which railways charge for, over-weight. And cabs ask double fare. Fell care as with your bride you post Distracts your anxious mind, Lest this portmanteau shall be lost, Or that be left behind; Ther baggage as you travel down Life’s hill, weighs more and more, And still, as balder grows your crown, Becomes a greater bore. Outstretched by Fashion vile and vain, Hoop-petticoats and vest, Now British females, to contain, Require no end of chests. To which bags, baskets, bundles, add, Too mumerous to name, Enough to drive a poor mad mad, A job with rage inflame. The cab keeps awaying o’er your head, With luggage piled above, Of overturn you ride in dread, With her whom you should love; Then you, the station when you gain, Must see that lumber stowed, And fears about it in the train, Your heart and soul corrode. Thus does your wife each journey spoil Of yours that she partakes, Thus keeps you on the fret and broil, Your peace and comfort breaks. With all these boxes, all her things, (How many!) to enclose, The fair Encumbrance on you brings A waggon-load of woes.
It seems getting time to take measurements from my husband when we have dead opposite schedules is nearly impossible. The hour I see him each night is just enough for him to eat and get ready; not enough to have him stand still for the measuring tape.
So, alas, a delay in sewing for the Netherfield Ball. I am determined I to work on his clothing next rather than dive into my dress. This is because I’m worried I’ll have my clothes done and his not started. Not good. I am also determined with the upcoming week break from school to get his measurements. Then I will get them on to paper. (I also have to get my giant roll of newsprint out of mom’s storage.)
In the meantime, I am happily enjoying making straw bonnets. I have a lovely 50s bonnet I am making for a west coast friend. I love the shape of 50s bonnets. The straw lines up so well, creating great lines along the top of the crown and around the brim. (I am such a millinery nerd.) I’ve also been toying with an 80’s shape. I’ll have a blocking/sizing night soon. I love that part. There are several shapes calling to me right now.
This passage from Twelve Letters to a Young Milliner says a good deal about the mindset of women in terms of fashion and shopping. The passage comes from an 1883 advice manual for new milliners set in the form of letters.
“With this general idea of the quality of your stock the next question that will confront you will be this, “Where shall I buy?” If it were a stock of soap or of sugar, of boots of of bedsteads, the place they came from would be of little consequence. If the soap took out the dirt, the sugar sweetened the tea, the books kept out the water, and the bedsteads did not fall to pieces, it would matter but little to the customer whether they came originally from New York or from New Orleans, from Boston of from Buffalo; but when it comes to articles of wearing apparel into whos manufacture taste and fashion enter, the customer does wich to know wheterh they are bough in th ewoods or in the center of civiliazation. In articles of Millinery, in which fashion is so large an element, it is of the highest importance that they come from the center of fashion. Present to your customers two Hats, both of the same style and quality; mark the one, New York; the other, Smithville, which will be sold first? There is but one answer to the question. Even the woman that buys a Hat but once in five years, if one ther be, will choose the Hat marked New York. Now, you buy your goods to sell; therefore, buy goods that will sell. You have neither the time nor the money, nor is it your duty to teach a benighted generation that Smitheville goods are superior or equal to New York goods. A Milliner’s life is too short for any such Quitotic enterprise. This prejudice is favore of New York Millinery may be without foundation, may be unfair, but it exists; and a beginner in the trade, if she desires success, must yeild to that which is useless to resist. If it becomes noised abroad, in the beginning of your business career, that your goods are out of date, that they are old style, in a word unfashionable, you may as well dispose of your stock at acution and go into the book-peddling business. Let your neighbors see that your boxes and bundles have the New York mark upont them and your reputation for being in the height of fashion will be estableished. That such reputation is neede for success, you will not deny.”
The same guide continues… A millinery saleswoman – “She will know the names of the braids used in Hats where and how they are made. She will inform herself about the reputation for taste acquired by different manufacturers and wholesale dealers. Her knowledge of artificial flowers, the materials used, mode of manufacture, will be as extensive as her reading can make it. It is said that the female nature has a large share of curiosity in its make-up. Some customers desire to know all these things. If they find your assistant able to give them this information in a pleasant and an agreeable manner they feel sure that you understand the business and that what you say is so and not guessed at.
Again, this knowledge of the goods enables the assistant to set forth their advantages in a stronger manner than she would otherwsie be able to do. This inspires confidence in the buyer, and the occasional buyer soon becomes a regular customer through the influence of your intelligent assistant.
Today we have a longer story looking at travel: “Railway Photographs” published in The Continental Monthly, 1862.
Click the title for the PDF, Please.
In celebration of Spring, I have a new, Free, template for is post is for all my Fanciful Utility readers out there. Seashells were a very popular shape for needle-books and pin cushions through the nineteenth century. This sweet, silk seashell is based on a beautiful original needle-book done in blues. The original shell was constructed in a now faded dark blue silk, trimmed in a deep blue embriodery and similarly colored ribbon.
My interpretation uses a soft, pale green that remindes me of the seaside and a spring-like gold for the embroidery. I opted for a chain stitch at the top to tie it together until I find the perfect color silk ribbon.
With your copy of Fanciful Utility in hand, you can make this lovely needle-book using this Free Template (in PDF). 
Don’t own Fanciful Utility: Victorian Sewing Cases and Needle-Books yet? Order yours by visiting ESC Publishing.
I had picked this sterioview up last summer with the thought it would find its way into my new shawl book. Since then, I’ve found a far, far better image, bumbing this from the publication list. This means I can share it here and we can play a game of “what do you see”
Take a look at the image and comment below on what you see.
Of course, I see the shawl draped on the arm of the chair to our left. This looks to have a wide border, possibly on opposite ends.
Ooops. This wasn’t supposed to post until this weekend. But given the weather I am about to venture out into, I’ll leave it.
From Eliza Leslie’s House Book, (Philadelphia, 1844)
A BONNET-COVER – When travelling in dry weather on a road that is likely to be dusty, you may effectually protect your bonnet from injury, by taking with you a cover for it. To make this cover, get a yard of white glazed cambric muslin, and cut it into the form of a large straight hood; gathering it close at the back of the head upon a small circular piece about the size of a half-dollar. Slope it away at the sides of the neck, and put a case with a drawing-string of fine tape along the edges of the front: the string to tie at the side.
If you commence your journey by water, you can roll up this bonnet-cover, and keep it in your reticule while in the steam-boat; putting it over your bonnet, and drawing round your face, just before you get into the vehicle in which you are to ride. You will find when you take it off, that it has effectually screen your bonnet and its ribbons from the dust and sun. It must, of course, be made very large and loose, that it may not flatten or discompose the trimming.
We have seen bonnet-covers of green silk; but, if it chances to get wet, the green dye will run down and stain the bonnet. This same thing may happen, if the cover is of coloured muslin. White is undoubtedly the best for this purpose; and when soiled, it can be easily washed.
After being out in the damp, do not immediately put away your bonnet; but wipe the front and crown with a clean handkerchief, and put some wadding or tissue paper into the bows, to keep them from losing their shape: taking it out, however, as soon as the ribbon is perfectly dry. Also, never put away a shawl or cloak while it is in the least damp. Do not always fold a shawl on the same creases, lest it wear out along the wire edges of the folds. When you take off a veil, stretch it evenly on the bed, and let it remain there an hour or two, in case there should be any dampness about it.
When ever the atmosphere is cloudy or humid, it is well to take the feathers out of your bonnet before you go out, lest they loose their curl, or their whiteness.
EDIT TO ADD: Deanna asked for a sketch of my interpretation. This is what I picture from Eliza Leslie’s description. I would want a bavolet/curtain to cover that part of my bonnet as well. I would think the gathers of the light weight fabric allow for the least amount of weight on the bonnet decorations underneith. I’m not sure how well this bonnet cover would do in any amount of wind or moisture. Honestly, I am still bothered by the recommendations of traveling caps for men but bonnet covers for women. I’ve been looking at paintings of travel scenes trying to determine what each woman has on her head. A traveling hood seems far, far more practical then a delicate fashion bonnet.
If I Had My Own Blue Box: 
