A Year in Millinery Fashion – 1864

“It is said that, as regards to invention, one milliner does more in a month than the world architects in a score of years”

Each Monday in 2014 will be focused on the millinery fashion of 1864. Drawing from fashion descriptions and illustrations, we will look at how the bonnet evolves during the year, the materials used to trim them and the popular colors and combinations. The year starts out light as the magazines did as well. As late spring and summer approaches, the posts will contain multiple illustrations and descriptions.

I hope these posts will prompt some discussion of the finer points of millinery during 1864. This is a year where bonnets significantly change.

Published in: on January 6, 2014 at 1:01 am  Comments (1)  
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Announcing the 2014 Winter FanU Fabric Swaps!!!

Love Fanciful Utility?

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Whether you are already a FanU Fabric Swapper or want to join anew, you are invited to participate in the 2014 Winter FanU Fabric Swaps!

For this trio of swaps we will do three exchanges of calico fabrics with a bonus special swap as the winter gives way to spring. This season’s swaps will include:

1) A Romantic Swap – Swap reproduction cotton prints from the Romantic Era, 1820s through 1840s. This era is full of fun, wild even, colorful prints.
2) A Paisley Swap – Swap early to mid 19th century appropriate cotton prints with a paisley motif. Remember, these motifs tended to be organized whether covering the fabric or part of a stripe motif.
3) A Mini-Print Swap – Swap small scale cotton prints from the early to mid 19th century. These can be tiny florals, geomtrics, stripes, plaids, etc.
Bonus) A Patriotic Swap – For those who want to do a patriotic sewing case for the coming Independence Day or a Memorial project, this swap will exchange 19th century correct prints in red, white and blue as well as reproduced period patriotic prints.

What is a Swap?

This is a chance for to exchange fabric with a small group of people. Each group will have 8 people exchanging pieces of fabric. All you need is a half yard of fabric and envelopes along with your copy of Fanciful Utility.

To Participate:

1: Sign Up Day!
On sign-up day, groups will be assigned on a first-in basis; the first eight will be the first swap group, second eight in the second group, etc. **Please be certain you will be able to fully participate by mailing your fabrics on the Mail-Out Date.**

Romantic Swap Sign-Up Day: January 13th
Paisley Swap Sign-Up Day: February10th
Mini-Print Sign-Up Day: March 10th

Bonus Patriotic Swap Sign-Up Day: April 14th

2: Mail-Out Day:
Place a 9×9″ piece of fabric suited to the mid-19th century in envelopes for each of the 7 other people in your swap group, stamp them (be sure to double check at the post office, but the small 9×9″ pieces should mail in a regular envelope with a normal stamp), and send them off no later than the Mail-Out Day.

Romantic Swap Sign-Up Day: January 31st
Paisley Swap Sign-Up Day: February28th
Mini-Print Sign-Up Day: March 31st

Bonus Patriotic Swap Sign-Up Day: April 30th

3: Get Fanciful!
Use your Fanciful Utility templates and techniques to make a project from the book, or copy your own from 19th century sources. We’ll all look forward to seeing your projects! You don’t have to sew right away, but don’t keep us waiting forever to see all the fun things!

(If you need a copy of Fanciful Utility, you can purchase them from the publisher at www.thesewingacademy.com

Fabric Guidelines:

  1. For the cotton and silk categories, your fabric should be early to mid-nineteenth century appropriate. (If there is a want for an earlier or later group, we can do that.) Prints and motifs should reflect those available in the 1840s, 50s and 60s. Cotton should be 100% cotton. Silk should be 100% silk.
  2. To keep the swap and sewing possibilities interesting, please avoid solids as best we can.
  3. Fabrics that do not work well for sewing cases should not be swapped. These include sheers, gauzes, heavy, thick, easy-to-fray, slippery and stretch fabrics.
  4. For the “crazy swap” category, think crazy quilt in a sewing case. This could include satins, velvets, textured fabrics. Quality synthetic fabrics are invited.

Swapper Guidelines:

  1. Please be certain you can fully participate in the swap before you sign-up.
  2. If something arises after you sign-up that will effect the date you are mailing your fabrics, please email your group so everyone is aware.
  3. If you fail to fully participate in a swap, you will not be able to sign-up for future swaps. (We do understand medical and family emergencies. I need to be able to ensure swappers will receive fabrics when they send fabrics out.)

Q&A

Yes, you can participate in 1, 2 or 3 of the swaps.

Yes, if we end up with multiple groups, you can participate in more than one group to swap more fabric. If you participate in 2 groups, you should swap 2 fabrics.

Yes, you can swap large and small scale prints.

Yes, you can swap now and sew later.

Yes, we would love to see what you’ve made with the swapped fabric.

Yes, you can use your own fabric in your swapped project.

Published in: on January 3, 2014 at 1:01 am  Comments (7)  
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Christmas Gifts to Make

This post is a bit delayed. My apologies. I like to offer an assortment of gifts to make each year. Here we have excerpts from “Christmas Gifts for Women” by Frances E. Lanigan, 1896. Each of these can be made with these directions. Some you will find easier to make if you have Fanciful Utility to consult for techniques. If you missed previous years’ gifts, please visit Homemade Christmas Gifts from 2012 and 12 Gifts of Christmas from 2011.

A useful darning-case is made by covering and lining two pieces of stiff pasteboard, six by four inches in size, with silk or linen of contrasting colors. This can be best done by covering only one side of four pieces of board, uniting the uncovered sides of these with glue just before completion. Then make cross straps of baby ribbon on the lining sides of the inner boards; on one place a card of white darning cotton, and in the other a card of black. In the centre of the other place a loop of ribbon to hold the pair of scissors, and at one end tie the handle in place with a bow of ribbon. Place a needle-case of flannel on the other end and then unite the two boards with ribbon.

 Darining case                      

A particularly pretty needle-book may be made by cutting two square pieces of pasteboard. Cover one side of each, the side intended for the outer cover, with white linen or silk, on each embroider tiny holly berries. Line the reverse side with red surah silk and bind with a red or white silk cord. Sew securely together after inserting small leaves of white flannel to contain needles of varying sizes. Cover this join with narrow red ribbon, ending in the centre with a bow having long ends and loops, and use ribbons of the same color to tie it together.

Holly NB

The latest fad in card cases is to have them made to match the calling costume. A charming one made of black and white satin was recently seen. A strip of black satin, seven inches long and five inches wide was used. To its four corners were stitched triangular-shaped corners of white satin, one and a quarter by two inches in size. A layer of cotton matting sprinkled with orrisroot, was tacked to the reverse side, and a lining of white surah silk added. Two other strips of black satin, five by three inches, were next taken, and two corners put upon each along one broad side. These pieces were similarly lined. Two flaps of white satin, also lined, were added to the ends of these pieces, making two apparent envelopes having satin corners and satin flaps. These were laid, lining side within, upon each end of the lined large piece and securely over-sewed all the way around. This made the card-case in the form of two pockets. A white and black satin cord was then sewed on all the edges, cording also the two flaps, the whole forming a most useful and dainty card case.

Card Case

A useful case for holding shoe-buttons, thread, etc, is made by taking two strips of ribbon, seven inches in length by three inches in width. Make an inch-and-a-quarter hem at one end of each strip, and in this hem, an inch from the top, run a row of stitching, so as to admit a drawing-string. Midway between the ends sew the strips together, uniting them on each side as far as the casing, thus making a small bag. Half an inch below the foot of the bag make a second row of stitching, closing up one side of division. Take a piece of stiff pasteboard, a trifle smaller than this opening in width and three inches in length, cover with flannel and then with ribbon, sewing a tiny ribbon loop to one end. In this place several needles of various sizes, suitable both for darning purposes and for sewing on the shoe-buttons which the bag end of the case should contain. At the two open ends of the ribbon make hems in which strips of whalebone should be placed so as to secure elasticity and firmness. Then sew the edges together, leaving an opening at the end, to hold the darning cotton.

shoe buttons

A dainty little addition to the work-basket is a set of three pieces, emery-bag, pincushion and needle-case. They should be made of flowered silk, ornamented with narrow ribbon and bound with silk cord of a prettily contrasting shade. The needle-case may be either circular, square or octagonal in shape. The inner leaves of white flannel should be prettily button holed or pinked about the edges. It should have ribbon ties. The cushion, which may be either circular or square, has no ornamentation other than the dainty binding of cord. The emery bag may be either heart or strawberry in shape, and finished with a tiny bow of ribbon. The three pieced should be connected by a narrow ribbon.

Work basket set

A pretty gift is a clasp-pin holder, which is made by taking a strip of white flannel twenty inches in length and two in width. Pink the edges evenly. Then take a strip of satin ribbon the same length but a little wider. Midway between each of the ribbon and flannel cut a slit large enough to admit the head of a tiny bisque doll. Gather both materials tightly at the waist, and tie a sash of narrow satin ribbon ending in bow and streamers about the waist. A similar bit of ribbon should then be tied about the neck, and loop made at the back from which to suspend the holder. Clasp-pins of various sizes should be placed evenly in the flannel.

Clasp Pin Holder

 

 

Published in: on December 10, 2013 at 4:56 pm  Comments (1)  

What Fits in a Sewing Case?

2013-11-24 09.11.43-1During the past week I’ve been enjoying making these cute sewing boxes. They are based on an original French sewing box that was about twice the size. My boxes are 4″ long and 1 1/2″ deep.

With the exception of the red stripe, each box is made from one of the fabrics in my Fanciful Utility Give-Away.  If you haven’t had a chance to enter, be sure to do so. The drawing is tomorrow.

Each case can be made from a 6″ by 20″ piece of fabric. This means you can get two out of a 6″ cut of yardage or three out of a fat quarter. They are constructed over pasteboard using the same techniques  in FanU. The ribbon at the top is a half inch silk. They close with a double set of lids that fold in. The one in the top photo on the right has a little pocket. I’ve been listing them on Etsy, where they disappear very quickly.

Sewing Boxes 1 Sewing Boxes 2

I’m sure you are wondering about the post title. Well, you know how sometimes you have an idea but need a nudge to actually get it done? This is one of those ideas – Showing what actually fits in these sewing boxes or cases. The case I’ve been making is the same size as the center box in the two structured sewing cases in Fanciful Utility. You can fit quite a bit inside these cases. Take a look:

Sewing Box Filled

In this box a pair of scissors, two thread winders, a thimble, needle-case and  bodkins easily fit. There is plenty of room for wax, a pincushion, pencil, ruler, etc.

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Published in: on November 27, 2013 at 2:11 pm  Comments (5)  

Mini-Millinery Success!

This stems from yesterday’s post. Doll size straw plait bonnet take #2 fits Jo’s head and hair just right. I look forward to decorating her bonnet. I’ll be making Mae’s next. Working with her wide hair while getting a 50 shape will be an interesting challenge.

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FanU Thank You Give-Away

This Thanksgiving I want to say “Thank you” to all my Fanciful Utility Fans with a Give-Away!

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The winner will receive this “Stash Enhancer” of reproduction fabrics for their future Fanciful Utility projects. The “Stash Enhancer” includes an assortment of period fabrics from my local quilt shop, Chestnut Bay, and a few other things I happen to add between now and the end of the give-away.

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How To Enter

There will be 3 ways to enter. You can have up to 3 entries. Here is how to enter:

    1. In the comment section below, tell us about your favorite project from Fanciful Utility.
    2. Share photos of a project you’ve made from Fanciful Utility on your blog, Facebook, Tumblr, Twitter or Pinterest and link it below in the comments.
    3. Order Fanciful Utility for yourself or a friend. Let me know you ordered in the comment section below. Visit www.thesewingacademy.com to order.

Added: The 4th way to enter share this Give-Away on your blog or website. Remember to link how you shared here.

image When to Enter

Now!

Through Thanksgiving morning.

The Drawing and The Winner

I will draw the winner (likely using the old-fashioned paper method) on Thanksgiving. I will announce the winner that evening right here.

 

 

 

FanU GA

Published in: on November 16, 2013 at 5:45 pm  Comments (14)  

What You Can Make with Fanciful Utility

imageHave you wondered what is within the pages of

Fanciful Utility: Victorian Sewing Cases and Needle-books?

Whether you call them sewing cases, work-pockets or housewifes, with templates and instructions for 68 projects, the possibilities are nearly endless as you pull from you stash and scraps.

Here are some examples of the pieces that you can make with the directions in Fanciful Utility.

 

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If you have yet to own your own copy of Fanciful Utility, please visit ESC Publishing to order your copy today.

Published in: on November 12, 2013 at 4:00 pm  Leave a Comment  

A Boot Needle-Book Template

Do you remember the velvet boot pincushion from the Agricultural Fair?  I made a template for it to go along with Fanciful Utility.
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This is a particularly fun needle-book to make. The original was a pin wheel done in an off white velvet embroidered  with red.

Click for PDF template

Click for PDF template

I happen to think this boot shape, as well as the bell shape from Fanciful Utility, would make lovely tree ornaments.
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Of course, I had to try trimming one out with some fur.

Published in: on November 9, 2013 at 9:00 am  Leave a Comment  

Button Keeps

I may be enjoying making these button keeps, or balloon bags, a little too much. Nah…

Here are a few I’ve been making. These two got the last of the pretty ivory soutach a goodie angel sent me. The one on the bottom right is made with three different color pieces. I keep changing my mind on whether I like this or not. I think I would like it more if it had three more lively fabrics.

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I need to dig through my stash to see what other ribbons and cords I have that might work for these. Those that will be ornaments, may also visit Joann’s with me to see what decorative cording they have.

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Here is the funny thing, after I cut a stack of cardstock for the “guts”, I proceeded to cut oodles and oodles of solid pieces. Then I remembered, duh!, I have a bunch of small pieces of prints that would look fabulous as keeps.

I cut a few pieces for these this weekend, and proceeded to sew. Lacking a tree to display them on, I strung them in a row. (Now, I’m picturing smaller ones all strung together as garland. How pretty. How time consuming.) They like to spin. So, trying to grab a clear photo was a challenge. These will also need ribbons.

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I have more pieces cut and waiting to be assembled. I need some truly Christmasy fabrics to play with. The solid shot greens are the closest I have. I would love some red and green plaids, some candy-cane strips, some blue and silver stars…..

The next bit of fun will be filling these with little gifts.

An update on November 7th…. Decorations!
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Okay, this one needs ribbon.
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Published in: on November 4, 2013 at 6:00 am  Comments (1)  

Victorian “Balloon Bag” Ornament

Here is a fun Fanciful Utility project that can be done for 19th century use of for a modern, holiday use.

This delightful little creation has been called by a few different names, a Balloon Bag, a Button Keep and a Thimble Holder to name a few. I’ve seen them in various sizes from about 3″ tall to just over 4″ tall. Each one made with silk covering pasteboard or a slightly more flexible version.

The following set of directions from A Girl’s Own Book, 1833, suggests the bag contain a ball of thread. As the piece closes nicely, it does well for holding buttons and thimbles, as the above names suggest. As a sewing accessory, I see it holding beads and trims as well.

A Girls Own Book 1833Directions for another version from Peterson’s Magazine, 1869:

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If you make this piece up as an ornament, all you need to do is add a hanging loop from one end. I highly suggest doing this before attaching the sides to each other. When making this green case, I snapped a rather strong needle into three pieces trying to work through the top tip. You could hang the piece as is or fill it with a gift. I picture these filled with candies, jewelry, smaller ornaments, or gift certificates. (You’ll need to make a larger version for gift cards.) Make 12 of them and celebrate the 12 days of Christmas. You could number them to use for Advent as well.

Here is the piece you have been waiting for… the template and directions. This pdf file is used with the directions in Fanciful Utility. If you need to order a copy, please visit ESC Publishing.

Click for the PDF Template

Click for the PDF Template

Here are originals to give you some ideas:

Holder

If you missed the previous templates, there is a Sea-Shell Template and a Tri-Lobed Needle-book available to accompany Fanciful Utility as well.

Published in: on November 2, 2013 at 9:00 am  Leave a Comment  
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