Much of the recent discussion about the bonnets has centered on whether they are “correct.” Before we can answer that question, it helps to understand that not all bonnets served the same purpose. A fashionable straw bonnet and a cotton sun bonnet were different garments, designed for different occasions. Comparing one to the other is a bit like comparing a best dress to a work apron.
Types of Bonnets in the Mid-19th Century
This is a generalized diagram of how I classify types of bonnets worn during the Mid-19th century, ca 1840 through 1870. This diagram does not include specialized bonnets such as those worn by religious groups, organizations, or mourning attire. This diagram also does not include caps, which are a different type of accessory in the case of decorative caps or personal garment in the case of sleeping our house caps. Hats are noted but not elaborated on. I placed hats off to the side in this explanation to keep thing simple.
Bonnets of the mid-19th century can be broadly grouped into two categories: Fashion Bonnets and Functional Bonnets. Fashion bonnets were worn as fashionable accessories, while functional bonnets were designed for practical purposes such as protection from the sun or cold weather. This is a simplified overview intended to help explain the basic differences. (Pardon the creative variation of an outline—WordPress doesn’t have an outline format.)
A. Fashion Bonnets – Worn as fashionable accessories. Provided little to no sun protection. Styles changed seasonally. Typically trimmed with a combination of ribbons, flowers, feathers, etc.. Typically made by milliners and purchased.
A1. Straw Bonnets – Bonnets made from plant fibers such as wheat, rye, and oat. Can incorporate additional fibers such as horsehair and spun glass.
A1a. Straw Plait Bonnets – Created from straw braided into lengths called plait which are hand sewn into shape.
A1b. Woven Straw Bonnets – Created from straw woven into the shape of a bonnet. Can be a closed or open weave.
A1c. Fancy Straw Bonnets – Created with a combination of braiding, weaving, and crocheting straw and twisted straw threads. Often open designs that can look lace-like
A2. Foundation Bonnets – Bonnets made with foundation of a stiffened or firmly taut material such as buckram, willow, or net over wire.
A2a. Silk Bonnets – Exterior material, most commonly silk, is arranged smoothly over the foundation. Can also include other materials such as velvet and lace.
A2b. Drawn Bonnets – Exterior material is arranged over the foundation gathered on canes or cords.
B. Functional Bonnets – Worn for a functional portion of the wardrobe. Styles and construction change slowly. Often made at home. Could be made from reclaimed materials such as an old dress.
B1. Sun Bonnets – Bonnets with the primary purpose of sun protection. The brim keeps the sun off the face while the curtain keeps the sun off the neck and shoulders. Most commonly made from cotton or wool.
B1a. Slat Sun Bonnets – The brim is supported by pasteboard, chipboard, or thin wood strips inserted in the brim between the exterior and interior layers. This brim can not be turned back.
B1b. Corded Sun Bonnets – The brim is supported by rows of cording between the exterior and interior layers. This brim can often be turned back.
B1c. Quilted Sun Bonnets – The brim is supported by rows of quilting stitches, often but not always with a layer of batting, additional fabric, or stiffened fabric inside. Some of these brims can be turned back.
B2. Winter Hoods – Type of usually soft bonnets worn during the winter to protect the wearer from the cold and weather.
B2a. Wadded Winter Hoods – Loose wool roving, down (feathers), or reclaimed wool is stuffed into channels creating a pillow-effect. Warmest of the winter hoods. Brim edge hugs the face.
B2b. Quilted Winter Hoods – Layers of batting are placed between the exterior and interior fabrics, then quilted in place. Brim is often turned back to reveal the lining and improve peripheral vision.
B2bi. Lappet Style Winter Hoods – A style of quilted hood with long extended portions to the brim.
B2c. Draped Winter Hoods – Structureless winter hood that drapes over the head. Includes novelty hoods from lady’s magazines.
This is only an introduction to the wide variety of nineteenth-century bonnets. Each branch of this diagram has its own history, construction, and changing fashions. Of course, there are many variations and exceptions, but recognizing the difference between fashion bonnets and functional bonnets makes it much easier to understand the styles and variations.
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Text only version of the diagram:
If I Had My Own Blue Box: 
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